CONFIDENTIAL. 

For  the  sole  use  of  the  officer  to  whom  issued. 


WAR  DEPARTMENT,   .....    OFFICE  OF  CHIEF  OF  STAFF. 

SECOND  (MILITARY  INFORMATION)   DIVISION. 

GENERAL  STAFF. 


No.  L 


NOTES  ON  PANAMA. 


Compiled  and  arranged  by 
Capt.  H.  C.  HALE,  General  Stoff. 


November,  1903. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICE. 

1903. 


WAR   DEPARTMENT, 

Office  Chief  of  Staff 

Document  No.  217. 


TABLE  OF  COXTKXTS. 


Page. 

I.  Historical  Sketch 5 

II.  Geography,  Physical  and  Descriptive 11 

(a)  Area  and  boundaries  of  cotintry 11 

(b)  Discussion  of  the  general  geography 11 

Monntain  ranges ... 11 

River  system  and  lakes 13 

Climate 15 

Fauna 21 

Flora 22 

(c)  Coastline 23 

General  description,  bays,  gulfs,  peninsulas,  capes,  adja- 
cent islands,  soundings,  harbors,  anchorages,  light- 
houses   23 

Ports,  breakwaters,  jetties,  docks,  wharves,  loading  and 

discharging  facilities,  coaling  facilities 143 

(d)  Statement  of  cities 149 

Name,  population,  location,  description  and  characteris- 
tics    149 

(e)  Lines  of  travel  and  cojumunication 164 

Canals 164 

Water  transportation 174 

Roads 179 

Railroads 185 

Cables 195 

Telegraph 195 

III.  Population. 196 

(a)  Census  and  distribution,  race,  language,  religion,  char- 
acter, morals,  manners,  mode  and  cost  of  living,  habi- 
tations, health  conditions,  etc 196 

IV.  Resources ■ 203 

(a)  Mineral  resources. 203 

(b)  Timber  and  fuel  resources 205 

(c)  Animal  resources : 206 

(d)  Products  and  manufactures 206 

(e)  Revenues 208 

Taxes,  exports  and  imports 208 

V.  Miscellaneous  Information 210 

VI.  Appendix 219 


NOTES  ON   PANAMA. 


I.  HISTORICAL  SKETCH. 

"Alonso  de  Ojeda  landed  on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  in 
1499.  Later  on  the  Spaniards  found  many  warlike  Indian 
tribes  there.  Eight  principal  tribes  are  enumerated.  Those 
in  Darien  were  specially  troublesome. 

"Columbus  visited  the  port  of  Chagres  and  the  bay  of 
Limones  in  1502.  Having  heard  of  the  mineral  riches  of 
Veraguas  he  made  the  first  attempts  at  colonization  on  the 
banks  of  the  Belen.  The  renowned  mineral  wealth  of  the 
Isthmus  attracted  many  navigators,  and  it  was  given  the 
name  of  Castillo  del  Oro  (golden  castle). 

"The  warlike  and  intrepid  natives  fought  heroicall}^  to 
preserve  their  libert}^,  and  there  ai'e  to-day  over  10,000 
natives  who  still  preserve  their  original  wild  independence. 

"In  1510  Diego  de  Nicuesa  brought  a  large  expedition  to 
Panama  and  was  appointed  governor.  He  founded  the  city 
of  Nombre  de  Dios,  which  was  sacked  and  burned  in  1595  by 
English  freebooters.  In  1546  Christopher  Peiia  came  with 
130  men  to  settle  the  territory,  but  accomplished  nothing. 
In  1513  Balboa,  who  was  in  command  at  the  Isthmus,  organ- 
ized an  expedition  of  190  Spaniards  and  1,000  Indians,  which 
ended  in  tlie  discover^^  of  the  Pacific. 

"  Owing  to  comj)laints  made  against  Balboa,  an  expedition 
of  2,000  men  was  sent  from  Spain  in  1514  under  Pedro  Arias 
Davila  (called  Pedrarias),  who  succeeded  Balboa.  Pedrarias 
sent  people  to  settle  the  Pacific  coast  and  founded  the  city  of 
Ada.     He  had  Balboa  beheaded  in  the  latter  place  in  1517. 

"  In  1521  Pedrarias  transferred  the  seat  of  government  from 
Santa  Maria  la  Antigua  del  Darien  to  the  village  of  Panama. 


6  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

It  may  be  said  that  the  conquest  ended  with  the  transfer  of 
the  government  to  Panama,  for  Darien  was  abandoned  with 
the  conviction  that  it  was  impossible  to  conquer  it,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  territory  presented  no  obstacles.  The  ports 
of  Chagres  and  Panama,  with  the  Cruces  road,  were  thus 
ojiened  to  traffic  between  the  two  oceans. 

"  Owing  to  the  famed  riches  of  the  Isthmus  and  its  excep- 
tional geographical  position  it  was  a  target  for  the  attacks  of 
pirates  for  about  one  hundred  years,  which  greatly  disturbed 
its  commerce  and  industry, 

"The  following  towns  were  sacked  or  burned  at  different 
periods:  Portobelo,  Santa  Maria  la  Antigua  del  Darien,  Nom- 
bre  de  Dios.  The  castle  of  San  Lorenzo  was  destroyed. 
Finally  Panama,  the  wealth}^  and  populous  capital,  was 
sacked,  burned,  and  destroyed  by  the  pirate,  Henry  Morgan. 

"In  IGTirt  William  Paterson,  a  Scotchman,  sailed  with  1,500 
men  to  establish  a  colony  in  Darien.  He  bought  land  of  the 
Indians  and  settled  at  Ada,  calling  it  New  St.  Andrew  and 
the  adjacent  country  New  Caledonia.  The  colonists  immedi- 
atel}^  began  to  improve  the  jjort  of  Ada,  or  Puerto  Escoces, 
as  it  is  called  to-daj.  They  opened  a  canal  and  erected  a 
fort,  in  wliich  they  mounted  50  guns ;  they  also  erected  a  house 
on  a  mountain  overlooking  the  port,  from  which  they  com- 
manded a  long  view  and  could  guard  against  surprise.  This 
colony,  being  refused  recognition  or  assistance  from  the  Span- 
ish Government,  was  soon  without  resources,  and  the  majority 
died  of  hunger.  A  few  reenforcements  subsequently  arrived, 
but  they  were  attacked  by  a  Spanish  force  of  1,600  men,  three 
months  later,  and  fmall}"  defeated.  Of  the  remnant  of  the 
colony  but  30  souls  eventually  returned  to  Scotland  alive. 

"Under  Bolivar  the  Republic  of  Colombia  gained  its  inde- 
pendence of  Spain  in  1819,  and  was  officially  constituted 
December  27,  1819. 

"At  the  time  when  the  South  Americans  rose  in  arms  against 
Spain  and  proclaimed  their  independence  Panama  was 
divided  for  administrative  purposes  into  two  provinces, 
Panama  and  Veraguas,  each  ruled  by  a  governor. 

"While  New  Granada,  Venezuela,  and  Quito  were  strug- 
gling for  their  independence,  Panama,  owing  to  its  lack  of 
resources  and  its  strategic  position,  had  to  patiently  await 
the  result  without  participating. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  7 

"The  English  expedition  under  General  McGregor,  which 
arrived  at  Portobelo  in  1810,  might  have  hastened  the  eman- 
cipation of  the  Isthmus  had  not  McGregor  remained  at  Porto- 
belo and  allowed  himself  to  be  surprised  by  the  Spaniards. 
The  result  was  fatal  to  the  Isthmus,  as  it  led  the  Spaniards 
to  double  their  vigilance  and  increase  their  garrison. 

"However,  its  hour  was  approaching.  In  1821  part  of  the 
garrison  (700  to  800  men)  was  taken  b}^  vhe.  governor  and  cap- 
tain-general of  Granada  to  Quito,  leaving  four  companies  of 
troojps  in  Panama,  under  Lieut.  Col.  Jose  Fabriga,  at  the  time 
governor  of  the  province  of  Veraguas. 

"The  Panamanians  believed  the  hour  of  independence  to 
have  arrived.  The  first  cry  was  raised  in  the  village  of  Los 
Santos;  then  the  capital  followed.  The  movement  was 
immensely  popular  and  no  bulwark  could  stay  it.  On  Novem- 
ber 28,  1821,  the  ayuntamiento,  boldly  risking  the  conse- 
quences of  such  a  step,  convoked  all  the  militarj^  civil,  and 
ecclesiastical  bodies  in  a  general  assembl}^  in  which  it  pro- 
claimed the  independence  of  the  Isthmus  from  the  Govern- 
ment of  Sixain  and  adhered  to  Xew  Granada. 

"In  1826  the  Latin-American  Congress  was  held  in  the  city 
of  Panama.  It  was  participated  in  by  Colombia,  Central 
America,  Peru,  and  Mexico,  and  a  treaty  of  coalition,  provid- 
ing for  the  furnishing  of  a  certain  annual  military  contingent 
bj"  each  country,  was  concluded,  but  never  ratified  by  all  the 
Governments. 

"In  1830  Jose  Domingo  Espinar,  commander  in  chief  at 
Panama,  usurped  authority  and  assumed  the  title  of  civil  and 
military  chief,  declaring  the  government  of  the  Isthmus  inde- 
pendent of  that  of  the  Republic  of  Colombia.  This  condi- 
tion lasted  three  months,  when  tlie  usurper  himself  decreed 
that  the  original  regime  be  restored.  He  continued,  however, 
as  a  dictator,  but  became  so  tyrannical  that  he  was  finally 
superseded  by  Col.  Juan  Eligio  Alzuro  at  the  instigation  of 
the  commanders  of  tlie  garrison.  Espinar  was  exiled  to 
Guayaquil.  Alzuro  retained  militar}-  command  of  the  garri- 
son, and  quiet  was  restored  for  a  while.  He,  however,  soon 
began  to  act  ar])itraril3',  and  on  July  8,  1831,  he  called  an 
assemblj"  and  proposed  the  independence  of  the  Isthmus  from 
the  central  government.  The  motion  was  unanimously  de- 
feated.    But  the  Venezuelans,  exi3elled  from  Ecuador,  'who 


8  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

expected  to  make  the  Istlimns  their  inheritance,'  incited 
Alziiro  against  those  who  opposed  him,  and  he  called  another 
assembly,  from  which,  by  intimidation,  he  wrested  a  declara- 
tion that  the  Isthmus  should  be  a  state  indei^endent  from 
the  Government  of  Colombia.  The  assembly  appointed  him 
supreme  military  commander,  and  Gen.  Jose  de  Fabrega 
civil  chief. 

"Colonel  Herrera  then  began  to  collect  forces  against 
Alzuro,  who  then  also  assumed  the  civil  authority,  deposing 
General  Fabrega  and  exiling  him  and  other  prominent  citi- 
zens, with  admonitions  never  to  return.  They  did,  however, 
return,  and  began  inciting  the  population  in  Darien  to  insur- 
rection against  the  tj^rant.  Finally,  on  August  24,  a  desper- 
ate struggle  took  place  between  Alzuro  on  one  side  and 
Herrera  and  Fabrega  on  the  other.  Alzuro  was  defeated 
and  taken  prisoner,  and  he  and  his  counselors  were  shot. 
The  executive  power  approved  the  conduct  of  Herrera  and 
expressed  words  of  praise  to  him  for  liis  services  in  the  cam- 
paign."— Direciorij  of  Panama,  1808. 

The  vast  Republic  split  w])  into  Venezuela,  Ecuador,  and 
the  Republic  of  New  Granada  Febriiar}'  29,  1832. 

The  same  year  a  conspiracy  headed  b}^  two  officers  again 
attempted  to  overthrow  the  constituted  government.  They 
failed  and  were  executed.  Comparative  quiet  followed  until 
1840,  when  a  revolution,  with  Herrera  at  the  head,  was  insti- 
tuted, independence  was  proclaimed  and  for  two  years  main- 
tained. In  1842,  however,  Panama  again  sulmiitted  and 
returned  as  a  i)rovince  of  New  Granada. 

An  imjiortant  treaty  was  concluded  between-  the  United 
States  and  New  Granada  December  12,  1846,  guaranteeing, 
among  other  items,  equal  commercial  privileges  on  the  Isth- 
mus of  Panama  to  citizens  of  both  cont  racting  countries.  In 
order  to  secure  constant  enjoyment  of  the  advantages  accru- 
ing to  the  United  States  in  this  treaty  and  as  compensation 
for  these  advantages,  and  in  order  to  secure  unembarrassed 
transit  across  the  Isthmus,  the  United  States  guaranteed  to 
New  Granada  neutrality  of  the  strip  and  the  rights  of  sov- 
ereignt}^  and  property  then  possessed  over  the  Isthmus  by 
that  country. 

Grievances  preferred  by  foreigners  have  in  numerous 
instances  strained  the  relations  between  the  National  Govern- 
ment and  the  powers,  and  the  neglect  of  the  Government  to 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  9 

afford  safe  passage  across  the  Isthmus  finally  became  so 
flagrant  that  in  1854  a  protest  signed  by  the  consuls  of  sev- 
eral powers,  including  the  United  States,  Great  Britain,  and 
France,  was  addressed  to  the  governor  of  Panama.  It  was 
not  till  after  1859,  when  the  President  of  the  United  States 
asked  Congress  for  power  to  protect  Americans  on  the  Isth- 
mus, that  the  more  serious  causes  for  complaint  disappeared. 

Except  for  some  minor  disturbances  in  the  provinces  of 
Aguero  and  Veragua  in  1854,  comparative  peace  i^revailed  in 
tlie  Isthmus  from  the  revolution  of  1840  to  1856. 

In  1855  Panama,  under  a  liberal  constitution,  became  a 
State  of  New  Granada.  The  executive  authority  was  vested 
in  a  governor.  The  outlook  for  the  future  appeared  hope- 
ful, but  from  this  time  forward  the  Isthmus  became  afflicted 
with  constant  conflict;  revolution  became  a  habit. — Authority 
consulted,  Bancroft,  Native  Races,  vol.  8. 

"The  constitution  of  April  1,  1858,  changed  the  Republic 
into  a  confederation  of  eight  States,  under  the  name  of  Con- 
federation Granadina. 

"On  May  8,  1803,  an  improved  constitution  was  formed, 
and  the  States  reverted  to  the  old  name  of  Colombia — United 
States  of  Colombia." — Commercial  Eelatiojis,  1900. 

"After  the  great  civil  war  of  1801,  generally  known  as  the 
Mosquera  revolution,  the  sixth  constitution  of  government 
was  framed  and  adopted.  It  changed  the  name  of  the  coun- 
try from  Xew  Grenada  to  the  '  United  States  of  Colombia,' 
disestablished  the  church,  confiscated  nearly  all  church 
property,  and  disfranchised  the  clergy,  but  extended  the  suf- 
frage to  all  other  male  persons  18  years  of  age  and  upward. 

"  This  constitution  remained  in  force  for  about  twenty-two 
years,  and  during  that  time  there  were  as  many  as  eleven 
'  revolutions,'  or  one  on  an  average  of  about  every  two  years. 

"After  the  hopeless  failure  of  the  armed  revolt  against 
the  iSTuhez  administration,  in  1885,  another  constitution  was 
framed  and  adopted,  making  the  seventh  in  chronological 
order  within  a  period  of  not  quite  fifty  years.  This  last 
constitution  changed  the  name  and  title  of  the  country  from 
the  United  States  of  Colombia  to  that  of  'The  Republic  of 
Colombia,'  thereby  intending  to  convey  the  idea  that  a  con- 
solidated reiDublic  had  been  substituted  for  a  confederation 
of  'sovereign  states.'" — Scruggs,  The  Colombian  and  Vene- 
zuelan Republics,  1809. 


10  NOTES    cm    PANAMA. 

"The  insurrection  which  began  in  October,  1899,  was  ended 
on  November  22,  1902,  the  fleet  and  war  stores  of  the  insur- 
gents being  restored  to  the  Government." — Commercial  Rela- 
tions luith  the  United  States,  1900. 

Discontent  born  partly  of  the  failure  of  the  central  gov- 
ernment to  pass  the  Hay-IIerran  canal  treaty  resulted  in 
November,  1903,  in  the  separation  of  Panama  and  the  estab- 
lishment therein  of  an  independent  republic. — {Compiler.) 


II.  GEOGRAPHY,  PHYSICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE. 

(a)   AREAS  AND  BOUNDARIES. 

"Panama  is  bounded  on  the  north  b}'  the  Caribbean  Sea, 
west  by  the  Republic  of  Costa  Rica,  south  by  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  east  by  the  Department  of  the  Cauca. 

"The  area  of  Panama  is  32,380  square  miles,  of  which  only 
about  one-half  is  inhabited.  Its  greatest  length,  from  the 
Darien  Range  to  that  of  La  Cruz,  on  the  side  of  Costa  Rica, 
is  about  420  miles.  The  widest  part  of  the  Isthmus  lies  be- 
tween the  mouth  of  the  Escribanos  River,  on  the  Atlantic  side, 
and  the  point  of  Mariato,  on  the  Pacific,  a  distance  of  about 
118  miles.  The  narrowest  part  lies  between  the  Gulf  of  San 
Bias,  on  the  Atlantic,  and  the  mouth  of  the  river  Chepe,  on 
the  Pacific,  a  distance  on  a  sti-aight  line  of  31  miles." — Colom- 
bia, Bureau  of  American  BepuUics. 

{b)   GENERAL  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY. 

"Mountain  Ranges. — Panama  belongs  geographically  to 
Central  America,  and  is  the  last  of  the  long  line  of  isthmian 
formations  which  form  so  many  links  in  the  chain  by  which 
the  northern  and  southern  continents  have  been  connected 
since  Tertiary  times.  At  the  Costa  Rican  frontier  it  trends 
round  from  southeast  to  east,  and  maintains  this  normal 
direction  through  a  series  of  rj^thmical  curves  for  over  400 
miles  to  the  Atrato  Valley,  which,  jointly  with  that  of  the 
San  Juan,  forms  the  true  parting  line  between  Central  and 
South  America." — StanfonVs  Compendium  of  GeograpJiy, 
Central  and  South  America,  Vol.  II. 

"A  massive  range  known  as  the  Cordillera  de  Baudo  tra- 
verses the  Isthmus  through  nearly  its  whole  length,  dwin- 
dling away  in  the  neighborhood  of  Panama.  This  range 
approaches  now  the  southern  coast  and  again  the  northern, 
and  though  not  a  very  elevated  one  (1,557  feet,  average 
height,  with  peaks  of  from  2,296  to  2,624  feet,' and  passes  less 

11 


12  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

than  900  feet  high)  it  gradually  increases  in  both  height  and 
breadth  as  it  approaches  Veraguas;  in  Chiriqni  it  reaches  its 
greatest  elevation  and  runs  through  the  middle  of  the  Depart- 
ment into  Costa  Rica." — Colonthia,  Bureau  of  American 
Republics. 

"Through  the  Cordillera  de  Chiriqui  the  Costa  Rican  oro- 
graphic S3^stem  passes  into  Panama,  which  it  traverses  in  its 
entire  length  to  the  Gulf  of  Darien  under  various  sectional 
names,  such  as  the  'Cordilleras  of  Veragua'  and  'San  Bias.' 
These  cordilleras  do  not  form  a  continuous  mountain  range, 
but  rather  a  number  of  loosely  connected  ridges,  spurs,  and 
offshoots,  which  decrease  generally  in  altitude  in  the  direction 
of  the  east,  and  are  here  and  there  crossed  by  historical  passes 
which  fall  below  300  feet,  and  are  the  lowest  that  occur  any- 
where between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific. 

"It  seems  obvious  that  here  also  the  two  oceans  formerly 
communicated  through  several  channels,  and  that  Panama, 
like  other  parts  of  Central  America,  constituted  an  insular 
chain,  which  has  since  been  merged  in  continuous  land  partly 
by  volcanic,  partly  by  meteoric  agencies.  This  may  be  even 
inferred  from  the  geological  constitution  of  the  uplands, 
which  consists  in  the  west  of  comparatively  recent  eruptive 
rocks  and  elsewhere  largely  of  granites,  gneiss,  dolerites, 
trachytes,  and  crystalline  schists. 

"In  the  extreme  west,  where  the  Panama  highlands  attain 
their  greatest  elevation,  the  Central  American  igneous  sys- 
tem is  continued  by  three  api)arently  extinct  volcanoes — 
Pico  Blanco,  Rovalo,  and  Chiriqui.  West  of  Veragua  the 
system  becomes  fragmentary  and,  so  to  say,  dislocated,  cul- 
minating in  Mount  Capira,  on  Panama  Baj',  then  falling  to 
700  feet  in  the  Ahoga-Yeguas  hills,  which  are  crossed  by  a 
pass  only  380  feet  high,  followed  by  the  still  lower  Culebra 
Pass  (290  feet),  where  the  Isthmus  itself  contracts  to  a  little, 
over  34  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  sea  to  sea.  In  the  San 
Bias  section,  with  a  mean  altitude  of  less  than  2,000  feet,  the 
highest  peak  scarcely  exceeds  3,000  feet,  and  here  the  Isth- 
mus narrows  to  about  18  miles  between  San  Bias  Bay  on  the 
Atlantic  and  the  head  of  the  tide  waters  in  the  Rio  Bayano 
on  the  Pacific  coast.  (StanfonVs  Compendium  of  Geography, 
Central  and  South  America.)  Near  the  western  extremity 
of  the  Isthmus  are  found  peaks  of  some  considerable  height, 
such  as  Cerro  Santiago,  6,234-  feet;  Volcan  de  Chiriipii,  0,480 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  13 

feet;  Cerro  Pieaclio,  7,054  feet;  Cerro  Horqiieta,  0,234:  feet, 
and  Pico  Robaldo,  7,012  feet." — Report  of  ihe  Liferconii- 
7iental  Railway  Commission,  Volume  II,  port  1,  1891-1898. 

Rivers  axd  Lakes. — "  The  moimtainons  regions  in  the  cen- 
tral part  of  the  Department  of  Panama  give  rise  to  innumer- 
able brooks  and  rivers  which  have  their  source  in  the  Cordil- 
leras and  irrigate  the  soil  in  every  direction. 

"The principal  streams  that  irrigate  the  province  of  Code 
are:  Rio  Grande,  Uvero,  Hondo,  Chorrera,  Estancia,  Anton, 
Hato,  Farrallou,  Chico,  Majaqual,  Calaboza,  Mataabogodes, 
Piedras,  Tejas,  Lajas,  el  Code,  etc. 

"Province  of  Colon:  El  Chagres,  Indios,  San  Miguel,  Code, 
Candelaria,  Calabebora,  Guasaro,  San  Diego,  Bananos,  Chan- 
guinola,  Sigsola,  Tervis,  etc. 

"Province  of  Chiriciui:  El  Doraces  or  Culebras,  el  Golfito, 
Coto,  Pavon,  Claro,  San  Bartolome,  Chiriqui  viejo,  Tabasara, 
Colorado,  Chico,  Gualaca,  Chorcha,  Fonseca,  Covales,  David, 
Plantanal,  Salado,  Santiago,  etc. 

"Province  of  Los  Santos:  Rio  Cambuta,  el  Guere,  Guarare 
de  la  Villa,  Pocri,  Escota,  Parita,  Pedasi,  Caldera,  j^ria,  etc. 

"The  province  of  Panama  is  irrigated  by  innumerable 
rivers,  because  it  embraces  the  extensive  territory  of  Darien, 
from  whose  ridges  and  mountains  rise  innumerable  rivers, 
some  of  which,  like  the  Tuira,  the  Balsas,  the  Sambu,  and  the 
Tayecua  or  ]Marea,  are  quite  large  and  important. 

"Central  district:  El  Bayano  or- Chepo,  the  Chagres,  the 
Culebra,  Lagastes,  Boca  Fuerte,  Pacora,  Hondo,  Manzanillo, 
Gatun,  Grande,  Chico,  Mandinga,  Nombre  de  Dios,  Aguacata, 
and  Capira. 

"Territory  of  Darien:  El  Tuira,  the  most  important  of  the 
rivers  of  the  Isthmus.  It  has  the  greatest  volume  of  water 
and  is  navigable  by  steamshii)s  to  Yavisa.  Tliis  river  has 
many  affluents,  the  principal  ones  being  the  Chucunaque  and 
its  affluent,  Yavisa.  This  Chucunaque  River  has  a  long- 
course  and  receives  a  multitude  of  tributaries  from  the  Cor- 
dillera Septentrional,  the  Piedras,  Rio  Grande,  Cupe,  Cuna, 
Nique,  Cubunella,  Paj'a,  Puero,  etc. 

"After  the  Tuira  come:  The  Sambii,  the  Balsas,  the  Taj^e- 
cua  and  Masea,  the  Cliiman  (all  these  have  a  great  manj'^ 
tributaries),  the  Lara,  Trinidad,  the  Sabana,  Santa  Barbara 
(which  receives  the  waters  of  the  Congo),  tlie  Cupunate, 
Pimeguilla,  San  Antonio,  etc. 


14  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"Lastly,  the  province  of  Veragnas  is  irrio;ated  by  the  fol- 
lowing- rivers:  San  Pedro,  San  Pablo,  Viro,  Bubi,  Piinta- 
gorda,  Rosario,  Rio  del  Muerte,  Corota,  San  Lorenza,  Caiia- 
zas,  Suai,  Gate,  Santa  Lncia,  Rio  Arena,  Rio  Quebro,  Torco, 
Negro,  etc." — Directory  of  Panama,  1898. 

"Several  of  the  isthmian  streams  descending  from  the  cen- 
tral uplands  have  a  somewhat  lengthy  course,  their  lower 
valleys  being  disposed  parallel  with  the  coast.  But  their 
basins  are  too  narrow  to  send  down  any  great  volume  except 
during  the  floods,  Avhen  they  often  rise  suddenly  20,  30,  or 
even  40  feet  above  their  normal  level  and  sweep  with  tre- 
mendous force  and  velocity  down  to  the  coast. 

"Such  is  the  regime  of  the  Rio  Chagres,  Avhich  has  its 
course  in  the  center  of  the  Isthmus,  and  has  hitherto  proved 
one  of  the  most  formidable  obstacles  that  the  constructors  of 
the  Panama  ship  canal  have  had  to  contend  with.  After  its 
junction  at  Matachiu  with  its  chief  tributary,  the  Obispo, 
descending  from  the  Culebra  uplands,  it  flows  directl}^  to  the 
north  coast  near  Colon  (Aspinwall),  where  the  entrance  is 
obstructed  by  a  bar  with  an  average  depth  of  about  10  feet. 
In  ordinarj'  years  its  level  ranges  from  14  to  40  feet  with  the 
seasons,  but  unusually  heavy  rains  may  at  times  cause  an 
absolute  rise  of  as  much  as  40  feet,  with  a  discharge  of  from 
65,000  to  70,000  cubic  feet  per  second.  The  difficulty  of  con- 
trolling such  a  volume  rushing  at  tremendous  speed  down 
a  narrow  valley  seems  insurmountable,  and  all  attempts  at 
regulating  tliese  sudden  freshets  have  hitherto  proved  inef- 
fectual. The  railway  bridges  of  the  interoceanic  line  run- 
ning from  Aspinwall  to  Panama  are  occasionally  submerged, 
while  immense  damage  is  caused  to  the  works  on  the  Atlantic 
section  of  the  canal. 

"On  the  Pacific  side  the  Rio  Bayano  presents  fewer  obsta- 
cles, because  the  western  slopes  are  drier.  But  the  bar  at 
the  entrance  to  its  broad  estuary  is  only  2  or  3  feet  deep  at 
low  water,  while  the  bay  itself  shoals  so  gently  that  large 
vessels  have  to  ride  at  anchor  4  or  5  miles  off  the  coast. 
Hence  costly  harbor  works  will  be  required  at  the  Pacific 
entrance  whenever  the  ship  canal  reaches  the  Gulf  of 
Panama."— >S7an/brd's  Compemlinm  of  Oeograpliy,  Central 
and  South  America. 

"  Various  rivers  flow  into  either  the  Atlantic  or  the  Pacific, 
some  through  long  and  narrow  vallej^s,  others  by  shorter 
courses.     The  principal  river  is  the  Tuira  or  Darien.     It  rises 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  15 

in  the  heights  of  Aspaves  and  receives  tlie  waters  of  a  niini- 
bei"  of  tributaries,  among  wliieh  may  be  named  tlie  Nique, 
Balsas,  Paya,  Piiero,  Cano,  Lomon,  Chucimaque  (which  itself 
has  several  tril)utaries  navigable  for  small  vessels),  and  the 
Taj'ecua  or  Marca.  As  thus  increased  the  Tuira  flows  into 
the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

"The  River  Code  is  some  70  miles  long,  being  navigable 
for  small  vessels  for  about  40  miles.  It  rises  in  the  Andes, 
and  receives  the  waters  of  14  tributary  rivers  and  a  multitude 
of  brooks.  The  Rio  de  los  Indios  and  the  Calabebora  rise  in 
the  desert  range  which  traverses  the  Isthmus  and  empty  into 
the  Atlantic.  The  first  is  navigable  for  1  s  miles  and  the  second 
for  21.  The  Doraces  forms  the  boundar}^  with  Costa  Rica. 
The  Chiriqui  and  the  Guazaro  flow  into  the  Atlantic. 

"Another  important  river  is  the  Bayano,  or  Chepo,  which 
rises  in  the  Andes  and  flows  west  and  then  southwest  into  the 
Gulf  of  Panama.  It  is  about  160  miles  in  length  and  is  navi- 
gable for  about  125  miles.  It  collects  on  its  course  the  waters 
of  a  number  of  tributary  streams.  The  River  Chagres  is  102 
miles  long  and  navigable  for  about  60  miles.  It  receives  the 
waters  of  more  than  21  tributaries,  and  flows  first  southwest 
and  then  northwest,  finally  emptying  into  the  Caribbean. 
Part  of  its  channel  has  been  utilized  in  the  construction  of 
the  interoceanic  canal. 

"  The  Zambii  River  rises  in  the  heights  of  Aspave  and  fiows 
nearly  parallel  with  the  southern  coast  until  it  empties  into 
the  Gulf  of  Han  Miguel.  It  is  navigable  some  93  miles.  The 
Chico  and  the  Santa  Matia  flow  into  the  Parita  Gulf,  the  San 
Pedro  and  San  Pablo  flow  into  the  Ensenada  de  Montijo,  the 
Tabasara,  Santiago  Fonseca,  and  Chiriqui-viejo  empt}^  into 
the  gulf  of  Alanje,  and  the  Golfito  flows  into  the  Golfo  Dulce, 
on  the  boundary  of  Costa  Rica." — Colombia — Bureau  of 
Americaii  Bepublics,  1892. 

"The  principal  lagoons  and  marshes  are:  The  lagoon  of 
Chiriqui  (improperly'  called  lagoon,  as  it  really  is  a  gulf  or 
bay,  well  protected  by  the  archiijelago  in  front  of  it),  the 
lagoon  of  Tacu,  and  the  lowlands  of  Catibal  and  Pruaya." — 
Direcfory  of  Panatna,  1898. 

Climate. — "The  climate  varies  very  much,  it  being  in 
certain  regions  warm  but  healthful,  in  others  damp  and  sickly, 
and  in  others  cold  and  salubrious. 

"The  whole  coast,  from  the  boundary  of  Costa  Rica  to  the 
Gulf  of  Uraba,  has  a  hot  and  damp  climate,  in  which  it  is  dif- 


16  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

ficult  for  the  white  race  to  flourish  by  reason  of  swamps  and 
marshes,  wliose  exhalations  are  extremely  unwholesome.  To 
this  is  added  the  intensitj^  of  the  heat,  agii;ravated  by  the 
great  humidity  produced  by  the  frequent  rains  and  bj^  the 
aqueous  vapors  rising  from  the  sea,  which  the  prevailing  winds 
carr}^  to  the  wooded  plains  that  fringe  the  entire  territory. 
There  is  a  part  of  the  Pacific  coast  to  which  this  does  not 
apph%  for  from  Panama  to  Cape  Burica  there  are  no  marshes 
or  wooded  plains,  but,  on  the  contrar}^,  cereal-bearing  fields 
and  rivers  which  waiter  and  fertilize  that  generally  inhabited 
region.  The  climate  is  as  a  rule  warm,  but  not  so  damp,  which 
permits  the  inhabitants  to  enjoy  good  health.  The  Cordilleras 
are  all  cool  and  salubrious,  but  their  slopes  are  uninhabited, 
both  on  the  soutliern  side,  which  bears  the  cereal  grasses,  and 
on  the  northern,  which  is  covered  with  woods. 

"The  coast  from  Panama  to  El  Choco  is  unhealthy.  The 
interior  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  is  very  sickly,  and  only  the 
negroes  and  Indian  half-breeds  can  stand  its  excessively  rainj^ 
climate,  hot  and  damp,  and  its  atmosphere,  which  the  marshes 
make  malarious.  Though  about  the  Darien  cordillera  the 
temperature  is  milder,  it  can  not  be  said  that  the  region  is 
salubrious,  and  it  will  never  be  until  the  great  woods  and 
groves  shall  have  disappeared. 

"In  Porto  Bello  the  climate  is  unhealthy  and  the  heat 
excessive  bj'  reason  of  the  stagnation  of  the  air  and  because 
the  port  is  surrounded  by  high  mountains,  and  noxious  exhala- 
tions emanate  from  vegetable  matters,  both  terrestrial  and 
aquatic.  The  nights  there  are  often  stifling  and  the  days 
marked  by  rains,  with  thunder  and  lightning,  such  as  can  not 
but  terrify  the  unaccustomed  visitor. 

"It  may  be  said  that  it  rains  in  the  department  of  Panama 
at  least  nine  months  in  the  year,  and  that,  too,  in  extraordi- 
nary quantities.  There  occur,  too,  brief  but  verj-  hard  '  scuds ' 
or  showers  and  much  thunder  and  lightning — a  sure  proof  of 
the  abundance  of  electricity  in  these  regions. 

"The  dry  months  are  February,  March,  and  a  jjart  of  Aj^ril, 
and  the  hottest  months  are  August,  September,  and  October, 
in  which  the  heat  becomes  almost  unbearable.  In  the  other 
months  the  breezes  and  the  continual  rain  render  the  heat 
less  intense,  though,  on  the  other  hand,  they  make  tlie  climate 
disagreeable. 

"In  the  territory  which  formerly  constituted  the  provinces 


NOTES    OlSr    PANAMA.  17 

of  Chiriqui  and  Veraguas  the  heat  is  intense,  thoiiiili  tem- 
pered b}'  the  rains  from  April  to  Decemlier.  In  tlie  part  of 
the  Isthmus  bordering  upon  the  Cauca  it  rains  all  the  year 
round  at  such  a  rate  as  to  make  the  rainfall  i»<>  cubic  inches, 
while  in  Europe  it  is  only  28  or  29." — Haiulhoolc  of  Colomhia, 
Bureau  of  American  Bepiiblics. 

"When  the  sun  is  north  of  the  Isthmus  southerly  winds 
prevail,  and  when  south,  northerly  winds.  As  is  the  case  with 
monthly  means,  the  changes  of  temperature  from  hour  to  hour 
and  from  day  to  day  are  subject  to  much  less  variation  on 
the  Isthmus  than  in  regions  more  remote  from  the  equator. 
Alhajuela  fairly  represents  the  climate  of  the  interior.  Here 
the  temi^erature  at  sunrise  in  the  dry  season  is  about  72°;  it 
soon  rises  rapidly,  attaining  about  87°  at  1  p.  m. ;  after  this 
it  falls  rapidly  to  about  81°  at  sunset,  and  then  subsides  grad- 
ually to  the  minimum  at  sunrise.  During  the  rainy  season 
the  temperature  at  sunrise  is  about  74°;  it  rapidly  reaches  a 
maximum  at  noon,  about  85°,  and  then  falls  to  about  80°  at 
sunset,  and  later  to  the  minimum  at  sunrise.  Thus,  during 
the  drj^  season,  the  daily  temperature  has  a  larger  range  and 
a  later  maximum  than  when  rain  prevails. 

"At  La  Boca,  situated  on  the  bay  of  Panama,  the  minimun 
temperature  occurs  later,  or  at  abont  an  hour  after  sunrise, 
being  then  about  75°  in  both  the  drj^  and  the  rainy  seasons. 
The  maximum  in  the  dry  season,  80°,  is  reached  at  about  4 
I),  m.,  and  in  the  rainj'  season,  84°,  at  about  half  past  2  p.  m. 
The  rate  of  fall  is  more  gradual  than  at  Alhajuela,  the  mer- 
cury receding  at  sunset  in  the  dry  season  only  to  about  86° 
and  in  the  rainj^  season  onlj'  to  about  83°.  In  short,  the 
changes  on  the  Pacific  coast  are  less  extreme  and  are  later 
than  in  the  interior,  but  the  daily  average  is  about  the  same. 

"An  annual  rainfall  of  about  140  inches  may  be  expected 
on  the  Atlantic  coast,  about  93  inches  in  the  interior,  and 
about  GO  inches  near  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  There  is  a 
well-defined  dry  season,  beginning  in  December  and  includ- 
ing the  months  of  ,Januarj%  February,  March,  and  part  of 
April,  a  period  during  which  the  sun  is  returning  northward 
from  his  southern  journey  to  the  Tropic  of  Capricorn,  and  the 
locus  of  heavj^  rainfall  has  been  transferred  southward  from 
the  Isthmus.  This  comparative  exemption  from  rain  is  char- 
acteristic of  the  interior  and  of  tlie  Pacific  coast,  but  some- 
what less  so  of  the  region  bordering  the  Caribbean  Sea. 

12312—03 2 


18  NOTES    ON    PANAMA, 

"Natives  of  the  temperate  regions  can  not  safely  perform 
arduous  manual  labor  under  exposure  to  a  tropical  sun,  and 
dependence  for  such  work  must  be  placed  upon  the  negroes 
of  the  West  Indies.  White  men  can  supervise,  but  must  not 
attempt  more. 

"Considering  the  average  figures  for  the  past  four  j^ears, 
with  a  personnel  of  2,275  on  the  canal,  the  percentage  of  dis- 
ease lias  been  29.65  and  the  mortality  2.35  per  cent.  These 
figures  do  not  exceed  those  on  large  works  in  any  country. 

"It  should,  however,  be  added  that  this  personnel  has  been 
long  on  the  Isthmus  and  is  well  acclimated. 

"Among  infectious  diseases  on  the  Isthmus  yellow  fever  is 
undoubtedly  the  most  to  be  feared  by  unacclimated  j)ersons 
of  the  white  race.  During  the  two  recent  epidemics  of  j^ellow^ 
fever,  the  first  from  May  to  Deceml^er,  181)9,  and  the  second 
from  March  to  September  10,  1900,  only  two  cases  appeared 
among  the  personnel  of  the  company.  The  disappearance  of 
yellow  fever  from  the  Isthmus  from  the  year  1892  to  the  year 
1897  would  lead  to  the  belief  that  the  disease  is  in  no  wise 
necessarily  endemic.  The  city  of  Colon,  which  up  to  about 
the  years  1891  and  1892  was  a  terrain  than  Avliicli  nothing  could 
be  better  for  yellow  fevei',  rejjuted  more  dangerous  that  the 
city  of  Panama,  has  since  that  time  remained  fi-ee  from  anj- 
infectious  disease  and  has  esca^jed  the  yellow-fever  epidemics 
of  1897,  1899,  and  1900.  This  is  due  to  the  sanitary  works 
which  have  been  executed,  the  filling  up  of  the  many  little 
swamps,  and  the  cleaning  of  streets  which  before  were  veri- 
table sewers.  By  these  improvements  the  citj'  of  Colon  has 
been  considerably  freed  from  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes 
which  rendered  life  insupportable. 

"  Might  not  a  like  result  be  secured  for  the  city  of  Panama 
(1)  by  a  good  supply  of  pure  water;  (2)  by  drains  to  conduct 
sewerage  to  the  sea,  to  which  its  situation  and  conformation 
are  easily  adapted,  and  (3)  bj^  watering  the  streets  daily  in 
the  dry  season  and  by  cleaning  them  dailj'  tliroughout  the 
entire  year.  Now  they  are  in  a  repulsive  condition  of  filth. 
These  three  improvements,  which  I  consider  fundamental 
and  essential,  are  now  wholly  neglected. 

"  There  should  also  be  instituted  an  effective  quarantine 
.service  for  vessels  arriving  in  the  harbor,  for  beyond  all 
doubt  the  epidemics  of  1897,  1899,  and  1900,  and  the  few 
cases  which  occurred  in  January,  1901,  were  due  to  importa- 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA,  19 

tions,  in  one  instance  from  the  Atlantic  and  in  three  instances 
from  tlie  Pacific." — The  Engineering  Magazine,  July,  190S. 

"In  the  late  summer  and  autumn  months,  when  tlie  north- 
ers are  replaced  b}"  the  southeastern  trade  winds,  the  Atlantic 
coast  lands  are  occasionally  visited  by  terrific  cyclones,  such 
as  that  of  October,  18G5,  which  wrought  destruction  among 
the  shij)ping  at  Colon  and  was  felt  as  far  north  as  Cape 
Gracias  a  Dios.  Thanks  to  these  monsoons,  the  annual  rain- 
fall often  exceeds  120  inches  on  the  Atlantic  side,  or  about 
double  the  discharge  on  the  Pacific  coast.  But  malarious 
affections  are  everywhere  prevalent  and  yellow  fever  a  fre- 
quent visitor,  so  that  the  Isthmus  still  remains  the  Sepultura 
de  Vivos,  tlie  'living  grave'  of  I^uropeans,  as  it  was  named 
In^  the  first  Spanish  settlers." — 8iaufor<Ts  Compendium  of 
Geogi-aphg,  Central  and  SoutJi  America,  l^ol.  II. 

"  In  1890  the  average  mortality  was  slightly  over  64  per  1,000. 
Although  this  is  considerably  below  the  rate  for  1888,  when 
the  canal  encampments  held  an  army  of  laborers  equaling  the 
IDreseut  entire  population  of  the  city  of  Panama,  and  Avhen, 
owing  to  their  gregarious  condition  and  the  prevailing  dis- 
sipation, epidemic  diseases  ran  riot  among  them,  carrying 
off  scores  at  a  time;  nevertheless  it  is  sufficiently  high  to 
brand  the  district  with  a  distinctive  and  invidious  character 
for  insalubrity. 

"Of  the  deaths  that  have  occurred,  29  per  cent  are  due  to 
lung  complaints,  18  per  cent  to  febrile  attacks,  10  per  cent 
to  dj'sentery,  and  the  balance  to  a  variety  of  causes. 

"  If  further  j)roof  of  the  great  mortality  that  prevails  at 
Panama  were  wanting,  the  fact  that  with  a  dwindling  popu- 
lation upward  of  18,000  corpses  have  been  received  into  the 
new  Roman  Catholic  cemetery  here  since  its  inauguration  in 
1884  is  of  itself  conclusive. 

"Leprosy  is  another  of  the  baneful  scourges  that  have  made 
the  Isthmus  their  home.  It  is  impossible  to  ascertain,  even 
approximately,  the  number  of  lepers  that  infest  the  depart- 
ment, but,  judging  from  experience,  were  the  exact  number 
made  known  the  result  would  be,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  start- 
ling. There  is  a  lazar  home  for  these  unfortunates  just  with- 
out the  city  of  Pananui,  at  Punta  ^Nlala,  where  a  few  of  the 
more  hideous  cases  are  segregated  from  the  rest  of  mankind, 
but  it  is  a  primitive  affair,  and  its  unfortunate  occupants 
receive   neither    medicine    nor  medical    attendance.     This 


20  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

disease  lias  become  so  great  an  evil  tlirouglioiil  the  Republic 
that  the  Govern nient  seriously  contemplates  converting  C'oiba 
Island,  in  the  Pacific,  into  a  leper  refuge." — Coloinhia,  British 
Diplomatic  and  Consular  Reports.  Reporf  for  tlie  year  1896 
on  the  trade  of  Panama. 

"Colon  can  at  no  time  be  considered  a  healthy  localit}'  nor 
in  any  respect  a  ver}^  desirable  place  of  residence.  In  the 
beginning  of  the  so-called  'invierno,'  or  wet  season,  tropical 
fevers  are  most  frequent  and  fatal.  What  is  called  the  've- 
rano'  (summer),  or  dry  season,  is  better.  It  is  less  unhealth- 
fnl,  and  with  proper  care  a  stranger  may  sojourn  there  for  a 
few  weeks  or  months  without  constant  dread  of  the  cemetery. 
The  streets,  though  very  much  improved  of  late,  are  often 
impassable  in  wet  weather  and  never  attractive  when  dry. 
The  town  is  environed  by  stagnant  ponds  and  lagoons,  and 
the  inland  breeze  is  alwaj^s  laden  with  deadly  malaria.  Sick- 
ening odors  assail  the  nostrils  at  every  turn.  The  only  species 
of  animate  nature  which  seems  to  really  enjo}^  life  here  is  the 
mosquito.     Day  and  night  he  is  your  constant  companion. 

"However,  the  Isthmus  can  not  be  judged  by  Colon,  as  it 
is  quite  different  on  the  Pacific  shore.  The  distance  by  rail 
is  47  miles,  and  the  cost  of  transportion  about  $4  in  American 
gold  coin.  The  time  required  is  about  three  hours.  During 
the  first  hour's  ride  from  Colon  to  Panama  there  is  very  little 
to  be  seen.  The  countiy  is  a  mere  succession  of  swamps  and 
lagoons,  where  it  would  seem  impossible  for  human  beings  to 
live.  Yet  even  before  the  country  was  partially  reclaimed 
from  a  wilderness  state  b}^  the  railway  there  were  occasion- 
ally seen  rude  huts  inhabited  by  Indians,  negroes,  and  mes- 
tizos. A  little  farther  on  cone-shaped  hills  with  intervening 
lagoons  and  rapidly  running  streams  are  seen.  Before  the 
De  Lesseps  Canal  Company  cleared  Rwny  the  forest  and  jun- 
gle and  thus  changed  the  whole  aspect  of  the  country  these 
hills  and  little  mountain  slopes  were  covered  with  dense  for- 
ests, which  were  resonant  with  the  screams  of  red  monkej's 
and  the  shrill  notes  of  tropical  birds.  All  along  the  railway, 
even  in  this  unfavored  region,  one  now  sees  little  towns  and 
settlements,  but  few  or  no  good  houses.  The  habitations  are 
for  the  most  part  thatched-roof  sheds  with  dirt  floors,  and  their 
inmates  can  hardly  be  classed  as  belonging  exclusively  to 
either  of  the  three  primal  races. 

"Ascendinu'  the  dividinu'  ridge  between  the  Atlantic  and 


w.  I.  CONWAY 

1st  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 

NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  21 

PaciJSc  shores  a  marked  change  for  the  better  is  perceived. 
The  whole  aspect  of  the  country  is  different.  The  temijera- 
ture,  thoui-h  but  a  few  degree  lower,  is  less  oppressive.  The 
air  is  purer,  the  environments  are  more  cheerful  and  inviting, 
and  we  no  longer  experience  that  strange  mental  depression 
which  we  felt  on  the  Colon  side.  As  we  begin  the  gradual 
descent  of  the  water-parting  ridge  toward  the  Pacific  coast 
the  beauty  of  the  landscape  often  charms  us,  and  we  are 
tempted  to  forget  all  the  discomforts  and  annoj-ances  of 
Colon." — The  Colombian  and  Venezuelan  Republics,  Scruggs, 
1900. 

"The  late  George  S.  Morrison,  the  civil  engineer,  in  his 
address  in  December  last  before  the  American  Geographical 
Societ3%  said  that  the  death  rate  on  the  Isthmus  could  be 
greatly  diminished.  He  attributed  the  unliealthful  climate 
to  the  fact  that  no  systematic  sanitary  work  has  ever  been 
undertaken. 

"He  said  that  before  the  United  States  could  begin  work 
on  the  completion  of  the  canal  thorough  sanitarj-  improve- 
ments should  be  made.  With  sanitary  control  and  discipline 
exercised  by  the  United  States  the  greatest  difficulties  that 
have  hitherto  beset  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  would  be  removed. 

"The  conditions  of  the  Isthmus  would  be  no  worse  than 
that  of  other  damp  tropical  countries.  The  hills  along  the 
line  of  the  canal  would  furnish  sites  for  gardens  and  resi- 
dences. He  thought  it  was  not  impossible  that  in  time  this 
region,  which  has  been  regarded  as  one  of  the  world's  pest 
holes,  might  become  a  favorite  winter  resort." — New  York 
Sun,  Noveiuber  15,  1903. 

"Fauna. — The  great  forests  of  Panama  contain  man}-  wild 
animals,  among  which  we  may  name  the  tiger  (black  or 
spotted),  the  jaguar  of  Darien  (as  voracious  as  that  of  Ven- 
ezuela), the  cougar,  the  javali  or  wild  boar,  the  chunzo,  erizo 
(hedgehog),  lion  (red,  yellow,  or  black),  oso  hormiguero  (ant 
bear),  tigrillo  (small  tiger),  zorro  (fox),  conejo  (rabbit),  tapir, 
venado  (deer),  puerco  espin  (porcupine),  gato  (cat),  mono 
(nionke}"),  and  armadillo. 

"On  the  Atlantic  coast  there  are  the  tortoises,  whose  shell 
is  so  largely  used,  and  white  and  green  turtles.  On  the 
Pacific,  besides  the  pearl  oysters,  there  are  found  many  kinds 
of  oysters  and  mussels,  and  crustaceans,  such  as  lobsters, 
crabs,  shrimps,  etc.     In  the  sea  the  animals  to  be  feared  are 


22  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

the  tintorera  (cuttlefish),  the  giiaza,  the  manta,  and  the 
shark.  In  botli  oceans  there  abound  the  cernzati,  a  fish 
weighing  55  pounds,  and  the  mero,  which  weighs  over  110. 
There  are  found  also  the  bagre,  the  peztierra,  the  quichavo, 
the  paro,  and  the  casus,  of  some  size,  and  the  hurel,  bar- 
bado,  sabalo,  hurello,  corvina,  cominata,  and  rnejo,  of  very 
fine  flavor. 

"There  are  in  Panama  two  kinds  of  alligators  and  many 
kinds  of  iguanas.  Among  serpents  we  find  the  boa,  the 
berrugosa,  the  eqnis,  the  bejuco,  the  cazadora,  the  boba,  the 
viper  (of  many  kinds  and  very  poisonons),  coral,  and  many 
sorts  of  lizards." — Colomhia,  Bureau  of  American  Repuhlics. 

"The  air  also  is  alive  with  birds  of  gorgeous  i:»lumage — 
tanagers,  toucans,  humming  birds,  and  euphonias  {Euphonia 
musica) — the  songs  of  many  being  varied  by  the  discordant 
chatter  of  the  monkeys,  springing  wildly  from  branch  to 
branch,  and  by  the  screaming  of  noisy  parrots.  Among 
the  few  indigenous  forms  is  the  ehrysothrix,  a  species  of 
monkey  which  is  confined  to  the  C'hiriqui  district  and  will 
not  live  elsewhere.  Most  of  the  other  mammals  and  other 
animals — tapirs,  peccaries,  pumas,  jaguars,  alligators,  ant 
eaters,  climbing  porcujiines,  iguanas,  deer,  vampires — are 
common  to  all  the  surrounding  lands." — Stanford's  Cotnpen- 
dium  of  Geography:  Venezuela  and  Colonibia. 

"Flora. — To  the  high  temperature  and  precipitation  cor- 
responds a  tropical  vegetation  of  amazing  exuberance  and 
varietj^  especially  in  the  southern  districts,  wliei-e  the  Cen- 
tral and  South  American  forms  are  intermingled.  Even  the 
rocky  headlands  are  clothed  with  verdure  to  their  summits, 
while  the  running  waters  disappear  beneath  a  dense  tangle 
of  overhanging  branches,  trailing  or  climbinu'  parasites, 
stems,  snags,  and  matted  foliage.  Soon  after  leaving  the 
Atlantic  terminus  travelers  bj^  the  interoceanic  railway  find 
themselves  surrounded  by  scenes  of  tropical  splendor  such 
as  can  scarcely  be  surpassed  even  in  the  Brazilian  woodlands. 
Cacao  shrubs,  palms,  bananas,  and  breadfruit  trees  stretcli 
their  branches  and  foliage  out  on  both  sides,  while  the  satu- 
rated soil  is  covered  b}^  a  luxuriant  growth  of  water  jjlants  of 
the  most  varied  colors." — Stanford's  Compendium  of  Geog- 
rajdiy:  Central  and  South  America. 

"There  are  iilants  having  medicinal  and  dyeing  pro^xn'ties, 
textile  and  oleaginous  plants.     The   Province  of  Veraguas 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  23 

I^roduces  earacolillo,  whose  rare  violet-purple  tint  is  so  much 
esteemed.  Splendid  palms  of  manj'  kinds,  cacti  of  capricious 
forms,  and  varieties  of  orchids  abound.  On  the  terraces  and 
in  the  gardens  of  Panama  flourish  the  aristocratic  kananga 
of  Japan,  the  starry  jasmine,  the  heliotrope,  the  rose  of 
Alexandria,  and  many  other  choice  and  delicate  flowers." — 
Direcionj  of  Pancuiia,  1898. 

(c)  COAST   LINE. 

Gulfs,  bays,  etc. — The  Department  of  Panamahas  on  the 
Atlantic  side  some  478  maritime  miles  of  coast,  240  between 
the  mouth  of  the  Tarena  River  and  Colon  and  238  between 
Colon  and  Costa  Rica.  On  the  side  of  the  Pacific  the  coast  of 
Panama  is  707  maritime  miles  in  length. 

"  On  the  Atlantic  coast  the  principal  ports  or  bays  are 
those  of  Colon  or  Aspiuwall,  Almirante,  Chiriqui,  San  Bias, 
Caledonia,  and  Porto  IJello.  Besides  these  there  are  some  25 
smaller  ports. 

"  On  tlie  Pacific  coast  the  princiiDal  ports  or  bays  are  those 
of  Panama,  San  Miguel,  Montijo,  and  Golfito.  There  are 
in  addition  some  30  smaller  ports,  among  which  may  be 
mentioned  that  of  Boca  Chica,  which  serves  as  the  port  for 
the  town  of  David." — Colombia,  Bureau  of  American  Repub- 
lics. 

DESCRIPTION   OF   THE   ATLANTIC  COAST. 

"Current. — On  arriving  within  about  30  miles  of  the 
southern  shore  of  the  great  bight  known  as  the  Gulf  of 
Columbus,  the  pent-up  water  is  forced  to  the  eastward.  This 
great  eddy  will  generally  be  found  running  between  Salt 
Creek  and  Porto  Bello  at  the  rate  of  2  to  3  knots  an  hour.  It 
is  also  to  be  observed  that  the  northeasterlj^  current  runs 
strong  close  to  the  entrance  of  Porto  Bello,  and  in  the  rainj' 
season  from  1^  to  even  3  knots  an  hour  as  far  as  Farallon 
Sucio.  Between  the  entrance  of  Chiriqui  Lagoon  and  Chagres 
there  is  often,  however,  a  narrow  stream  setting  to  the  west- 
ward, which  extends  about  3  miles  from  the  shore. 

"TiRBi  (Terraba)  Point  forms  with  Sarabeta  Point  the 
west  entrance  of  Boca  del  Drago  into  Almirante  Baj".  On 
the  west  side  of  Tirbi  Point  the  shore  forms  a  dangerous 
bight,  called  Tirbi  Bight.  Between  the  points,  three-fourths 
mile  apart,  is  the  front  of  a  small  neck  of  low  wooded  land, 
which  is  skirted  by  a  reef  on  which  the  sea  breaks  heavily. 


24  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"Cauro  and  Lime  points  form  the  east  side  of  entrance, 
the  bar  between  them  being  shallow,  and  there  is  a  patch  of 
If  fathoms  about  midway  between  the  points.  A  spit  with 
less  than  3  fathoms  extends  one-half  mile  across  the  entrance 
from  Lime  Point  in  the  direction  of  Sarabeta  Point,  with  6 
to  10  fathoms  close-to. 

"Boca  del  Drago,  the  western  entrance  into  Almirante 
Bay,  is  only  one-fourth  mile  wide  in  the  narrowest  part  and 
one-third  mile  at  the  entrance,  and  although  affording  a 
depth  of  9  fathoms  is  so  tortuous  and  exceedingly  sharp  in 
its  turnings  that  it  is  too  difficult  for  strangers  to  navigate 
without  the  aid  of  a  pilot,  who  will  come  off  from  the  settle- 
ment on  seeing  the  usual  signal.  The  Boca  has  in  the  channel 
a  least  known  depth  of  5  fathoms. 

"  Shoal. — A  shoal  spot  with  5  fathoms  of  water  on  it  has 
been  reported  off  the  entrance  to  Boca  del  Drago,  where  a 
depth  of  8  fathoms  is  indicated  on  Hj^drographic  Office  chart 
No.  1384.     The  5-fathom  spot  is  on  the  following  bearings: 

"Sarabeta  Point,  S.  31°  30'  W.  (S.  20°  \Y.  mag.),  distant 
2,100  yards. 

"Lime  Point,  S.  1°  W.  (S.  5  E.  mag.). 

"Approximate  position:  Latitude  9°  2(J'  36"  N.,  longitude 
82^  20'  30"  W. 

"Settlement. — The  settlement  extends  on  either  side  of 
Lime  Point.  Water  is  scarce,  but  a  small  supply  of  vegeta- 
bles may  be  obtained.  There  is  excellent  firewood  on  the 
western  shore. 

"Directions. — The  Boca  del  Drago  can  only  be  entered 
under  sail,  with  the  sea  and  laud  breezes.  Swan  Cay,  180 
feet  high,  and  Sail'  Rock,  40  feet  high,  about  2  miles  north- 
eastward of  the  entrance,  are  good  marks;  the  latter  is  steep-to 
on  its  west  side,  and  may  be  passed  at  a  prudent  distance. 

"When  a  mile  from  the  entrance  the  opening  should  be 
brought  to  bear  S.  3°  W.  (S.  3''  E.  mag.),  when  aremarkabl}^ 
large  tree  on  the  extremity  of  Lime  Point  will  be  seen.  Lime 
Point  tree  and  Tristan  Point  in  line  lead  nearly-  in  mid- 
channel.  Tristan  Point  is  formed  b}'  tall  table-topped  trees, 
but  has  the  appearance  of  a  low  bluff  headland. 

"Proceeding  in  with  the  range  given,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
bear  up  as  short  round  as  i^ossible  when  Norte  Point  is  seen 
just  open  of  Cauro  Point,  N.  73°  E.  (N.  67°  E.  mag.),  keeping 
it  so  astern  until  within  about  300  or  400  j-ards  of  the  western 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  25 

shore,  which  is  steep  to  the  edge  of  the  reef,  and  then  haul 
up  quickly  S.  15°  W.  (S.  9°  W.  mag.),  through  the  inner  part 
of  the  narrows.  When  Cauro  Point  bears  X.  43°  E.  (N.  37° 
E.  mag.),  or  Swan  Cay  is  open  northward  of  it,  the  bank  off 
Lime  Point  will  have  been  passed,  and  a  S.  35°  E.  (S.  41°  E. 
mag.)  course  will  lead  into  the  lagoon,  in  not  less  than  5 
fathoms,  where  ancliorage  may  be  taken  up  as  most  conven- 
ient under  Columbus  Island.  The  clump  of  trees  on  tlie 
mainland  resembling  a  tower,  formerly  used  as  a  leading- 
mark,  is  not  to  be  distinguished. 

"Tides  and  Current. — The  tides  at  the  Boca  del  Drago 
are  similar  to  those  at  the  Boca  del  Toro,  but  the  easterly 
current  sets  against  the  ledge  ofE  the  north  end  of  Columbus 
Island  with  such  force  that  it  is  turned  to  tlie  southward,  and, 
overpowering  the  ebb,  runs  into  the  lagoon  at  the  rate  of  a 
knot  an  hour. 

"Caution. — A  vessel  meeting  witli  a  calm  or  light  airs 
between  the  Sail  Rock  and  the  entrance,  or  becoming  unman- 
ageable, should  anchor  at  once  and  await  a  commanding- 
breeze.  The  turnings  in  the  narrows  being  so  sharp,  the  ut- 
most attention  must  be  paid  to  the  sails  to  maneuver  quickly; 
and,  if  time  permit,  it  will  l)e  safei'  to  i)lace  a  boat  at  the 
junction  of  the  leading  marks.  H.  M.  S.  Cordelia,  1865, 
found  depths  of  4  fathoms  in  the  inner  part  of  the  channel 
where  0  fathoms  formerly  existed. 

"Almirante  Bay  is  about  13  miles  in  extent  from  east  to 
west,  but  its  interior  is  crowded  by  small  islands,  and  its 
shores  are  so  irregular  that  from  north  to  south  the  breadth 
varies  from  2  to  13  miles,  and  near  the  middle  the  bay  almost 
forms  two  basins.  In  consequence  of  this  it  may  be  said 
to  possess  harbors  within  harbors,  in  which  vessels  of  the 
largest  class  may  enter  without  much  difficulty,  and  in  many 
places  lie  alongside  the  sliore  in  security'. 

"  The  south  side  of  Almirante  Baj'  is  bounded  bj'  a  remark- 
able ridge  of  table  hills,  lying  at  the  base  of  the  great  Cor- 
dillera,- extending  in  a  southeast  and  northwest  direction 
about  15  miles.  In  some  places  it  rises  precipitously  from  the 
shore  to  the  height  of  600  or  700  feet,  and  only  2  miles 
inland  reaches  an  elevation  of  1,748  feet,  which  increases  to 
2,000  feet  at  its  northwestern  extremity.  Several  small 
streams  descend  from  these  heights  into  the  southwest  and 
west  sides  of  the  basin,  but  thej^  are  only  navigable  for  a  short 


26  NOTES    OJSr    PANAMA. 

distance  by  small  canoes.  The  east  and  west  sides  are  veiy 
low  and  swampy  and  densely  wooded.  The  north  side  is 
bounded  b}^  Columbus  and  Provision  islands. 

"Columbus  Island  is  7  miles  long  northwest  and  south- 
east and  about  3  miles  broad.  It  is  flat  and  densely  wooded, 
the  tops  of  the  trees  being  from  200  to  400  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  east  side  of  the  island  is  bounded  b}"  a  Avhite  sandy 
beach,  which  forms  two  sliglit  baj-s,  and  from  Long  Bay 
Point,  which  separates  them,  a  dangerous  reef  extends  to  the 
northeast  1:^  miles,  breaking  heavily  in  fresh  breezes.  The 
outer  end  of  this  reef  lies  N.  28"  W.  (N.  34°  W.  mag.),  3i 
miles  from  Cape  Toro,  and  the  edge  of  soundings  is  only 
three -fourths  of  a  mile  distant. 

"The  northern  extremity  of  the  island  is  low  and  roekj', 
and  from  it  a  ledge  of  rocks  extends  northwestward  \^  miles, 
but  being  dry  in  places  and  having  on  it  some  remarkable 
islets  which  serve  as  marks,  it  is  not  so  dangerous.  Sail 
Rock,  the  outermost  of  the  above  islets,  lies  at  the  extremity 
of  the  ledge  and  is  40  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  barren 
black  rock,  steei)-to  on  its  west  and  north  sides. 

"Swan  Cay,  S.  51°E.  (S.  57° E.  mag.),  one-half  mile  from  Sail 
Rock,  is  a  narrow  rock  about  70  yards  long  rising  perpen- 
dicularly to  an  elevation  of  180  feet  and  crowned  witli  brush- 
wood and  a  few  cocoanut  trees.  There  is  no  safe  passage 
between  these  cays  and  Xorth  Point. 

"The  western  extremity  of  Columbus  Island  is  low  and 
sand}-  and  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  adjacent  point  on 
the  mainland.  Upon  it  is  a  small  settlement.  The  south 
shore  is  low  and  swampy  and  bounded  b}*  mangroves,  which 
are  closely  skirted  by  a  coral  ledge,  steep-to. 

"Settlement. — The  principal  settlement,  Boca  del  Toro, 
now  covers  considerable  territory,  and  the  little  fort  is  no 
longer  distinguishable,  the  ground  having  been  reclaimed 
and  built  upon  for  about  half  a  cable  to  seaward.  It  is  the 
seat  of  government  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  and  is  on  the 
southeast  end  of  Columbus  Island,  on  a  narrow  peiiinsula, 
faced  on  the  north  bj^  a  shallow  bay  open  to  the  northeast. 
The  population  in  1894,  including  Old  Bank  settlement, 
amounted  to  al>out  5,000  inhabitants — Indians,  negroes,  and 
Spanish- Amei'icans. 

"Tlie  trade  is  principally  in  the  hands  of  Americans. 

"The  boat  landings  are  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  town. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  27 

There  is  a  wharl'  at  the  settlement,  alongside  of  which  finit 
steamers  load.  About  five  steamers  call  weekly  during-  the 
fruit  season  (March  to  Augu.st).  A  buoy,  which  is  not  to  be 
depended  upon,  marks  the  2-fathom  patch,  4  cables  S.  10°  W. 
(S.  10°  W.  mag.)  from  Fort  Point.  The  patch  of  2  fathoms 
charted  northeastward  of  it  has  but  H  fathoms. 

"The  United  States  is  represented  by  an  acting  consular 
agent. 

"Supplies. — Fresh  beef  is  scarce  and  of  poor  quality. 
Pork  and  poultry  can  be  had  in  moderate  quantities,  but  at 
high  prices. 

"Preserved  provisions,  salt  meats,  and  bread  are  imported 
by  trading  firms,  but  a  large  stock  is  not  kept  on  hand. 

"Good  fish  are  plentiful  in  the  bay,  and  game  is  said  to  be 
abundant  on  tlie  mainland. 

"Water. — Rain  water  is  all  that  is  to  be  had;  it  is  con- 
tained in  an  iron  tank  (an  old  boiler)  of  a  capacity  of  about 
6,000  gallons. 

"Coal. — Thei-e  is  no  imported  coal  in  the  place,  but  coal 
of  fair  qualitj"  can  be  mined  in  tlie  immediate  neighborhood, 
and  at  \ery  moderate  cost,  by  using  native  labor. 

"Provisiox  Island  is  8  miles  long  east  and  west,  with  a 
ridge  of  irregular  hills  on  its  north  side  from  300  to  400  feet 
high.  On  the  south  side  of  this  ridge  the  land  is  low,  swampy, 
and  skirted  by  numerous  mangrove  cays,  with  boat  channels 
between,  which  extend  all  the  wa}"  to  the  Crawl  Cay  Channel. 
The  northeast  side  is  foul,  and  the  sea  breaks  on  it  with 
great  violence  to  the  distance  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from 
the  northeast  point.  Cape  Toro,  the  northwestern  extremity 
of  the  island,  is  a  bold  scarped  headland,  easily  recognized. 
There  is  a  small  black  rock,  steep-to,  about  800  yards  to  the 
northeastward  of  it.  A  reef,  steep-to,  and  on  which  the  sea 
generally  breaks,  extends  west  nearly  one-half  mile  fi-om  the 
cape. 

"  1'he  west  end  of  the  island  terminates  at  a  low,  sandy 
point,  u[)on  which  there  is  a  small  settlement,  and  the  land 
about  it  is  so  fertile  in  the  growth  of  tropical  fruits  and 
vegetables  that  it  gives  the  name  to  the  island. 

"Boca  del  Toro,  between  Columbus  and  Provision  is- 
lands, is  the  principal  channel  leading  into  the  baj',  and 
between  Careening  Caj',  close  off  Columbus  Island  and  Pro- 
vision'Island,  it  is  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.     Both 


28  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

sides,  however,  are  skirted  by  a  coral  ledge,  so  that  in  the 
middle,  in  the  narrowest  part,  it  is  only  about  one-fourth  of 
a  mile  across.  In  the  middle  of  the  channel  and  across  the 
Garcia  bank  or  Middle  ground,  which  lies  just  within  the  bay, 
a  depth  of  not  less  than  5  fathoms  may  be  carried ;  and  if 
buoyed,  6  fathoms  could  be  maintained. 

"The  edges  of  the  reefs  on  the  Provision  Island  side  gen- 
erally show  themselves,  but  the  water  is  so  muddy  at  the 
entrance  that  the  shoals  there  are  not  visible,  and  as  Long 
Bay  Point  is  dangerous,  strangers  will  require  a  pilot. 

"Shoal. — The  existence  of  a  small  coral  patch  is  reported 
in.  Boca  del  Toro  with  3  fathoms  of  water  over  it  at  low  water. 
The  3-fathom  spot  is  on  the  following  bearings : 

"Careening  Point,  N.  3°  E.  (N.  3°  W.  mag.),  distant  800 
yards. 

"Mangrove  Point,  S.  81°  W.  (S.  75°  W.  mag.). 

"There  are  depths  of  4  and  44  fathoms  close  around  this 
patch. 

"Directions.— In  a  case  of  necessity,  or  with  but  little 
local  knowledge,  the  following  directions  for  the  Boca  del 
Toro  will  be  useful  and,  to  vessels  drawing  under  17  feet, 
quite  safe. 

"There  is  not  much  difficulty  in  recognizing  the  entrance. 
Cape  Toro  being  a  remarkable  bold  headland,  but  it  must  be 
approached  from  a  northeast  direction  at  a  wide  offing  and 
with  the  sea  breeze.  An  easterly  set  of  the  current  should 
be  allowed  for.  When  the  channel  comes  fairly  open,  bear- 
ing S.  21°  W.  (S.  15°  W.  mag.),  a  very  remarkable  large  tree 
on  Cristoval  Island,  called  'Pillar  tree,'  will  be  seen. 

"The  i-ange  for  approaching  and  entering  is  Pillar  tree  in 
range  with  the  eastern  side  of  Split  Hill  and  not  the  center 
of  the  hill.  A  small  notch  will  be  seen  just  to  the  eastward 
of  the  highest  part  of  Split  Hill  and  on  the  eastern  slope;  this 
in  range  with  the  Pillar  tree  will  carry  nearl}'  in  the  center  of 
the  channel.  Should  the  range  be  shut  in  by  rain  or  mist 
after  getting  on  it,  it  is  better  to  head  for  the  eastern  tangent 
of  Careening  Caj^  until  Toro  Point  bears  abeam  and  then  to 
head  the  course  by  compass  about  S.  20°  W.  (S.  14°  W.  mag.) 
through  the  channel,  turning  when  Mangrove  Point  bears 
S.  82°  W.  (S.  70°  mag.).  A  S.  48°  W.  (S.  42°  W.  mag.)  course 
will  lead  across  tlie  deepest  part  of  the  middle  ground,  in  4 
to  5  fathoms,  when  anchorage  may  be  taken  as  most  conven- 


NOTES    OJS    PANAMA.  29 

lent,  ill  12  or  13  fatlioins,  mud,  provided  Careening  Point 
does  not  bear  eastward  of  N.  17°  E.  {N.  11°  E.  mag.). 

"The  south  end  of  Careening  Cay  is  sufficiently  steep  for 
a  vessel  to  heave  down  alongside,  and  between  it  and  the 
Fort  Point  there  is  a  12-foot  channel,  admitting  coasting  ves- 
sels to  a  more  sheltered  anchorage  off  the  settlement. 

"In  leaving  the  lagoon  by  the  Boco  del  Toro  it  will  be  nec- 
essaiy  to  wait  for  the  land  Avind.  To  attempt  working  out 
against  the  heavy  swell  which  usually  rolls  in  would  be 
attended  with  considerable  risk,  notwithstanding  the  assist- 
ance of  the  outset,  and  if  caught  at  the  entrance  by  the  sea 
breeze  it  will  be  more  prudent  for  a  vessel  of  heav}'  draft  to 
run  back.  It  is  also  necessary  to  be  cautious  not  to  haul  out 
to  the  northeast  before  Cape  Toro  bears  S.  74°  E.  (S.  80°  E. 
mag.)  to  avoid  the  reef  from  that  i^oint. 

"  Caution. — Vessels  drawing  18  feet  should  sound  and  buoy 
the  channel,  as  Garcia  Bank  has  changed,  but  tliere  is  a 
channel  with  a  least  depth  of  -1  fathoms. 

' '  Pilots. — Local  pilots  come  off  to  ships,  but  are  not  reliable. 

"Tides  and  Current. — It  is  high  water,  full  and  change, 
in  the  Boca  del  Toro  at  12h.  15m.,  and  the  rise  is  from  1  to  1^ 
feet.  There  is  no  flood  stream,  but  a  continual  outset,  de- 
pending upon  the  rains;  in  the  dry  season  its  strength  is 
about  a  knot.  The  great  easterly  eddy  sets  on  to  the  cays  off 
the  north  side  of  Columbus  Island  at  the  rate  of  from  1  to  2 
knots,  and  it  will  be  met  with  off  the  Boca  del  Toro  and 
should  be  allowed  for  after  the  cays  bear  southward  of  west, 

"Shepherd  Harbor. — Of  the  many  small  basins  formed 
by  the  islands  off  the  south  shore  the  largest  and  most  favor- 
ably situated  lies  at  the  southwest  end  of  Almirante  Baj^  and 
is  named  Shepherd  Harbor.  It  is  about  4  miles  in  length  in 
a  northwest  and  southwest  direction  and  from  1  to  If  miles 
in  breadth,  with  a  depth  of  12  fathoms  on  muddy  bottom. 

"On  the  northeast  side  it  is  bounded  by  Shepherd,  or  Igu- 
ana, Caj^,  which  is  1^  miles  long  east  and  west,  about  one-half 
mile  broad,  and,  in  the  highest  j)art,  264  feet  high.  From  the 
southeast  end  of  the  island  a  narrow  coral  ledge  stretches  off 
to  the  southward  about  a  mile,  upon  which  are  several  cays, 
the  two  largest  named  Garcia  and  Roldan.  The  channel 
between  the  south  end  of  Roldan  and  the  main  is  nearly  one- 
half  mile  wide.  From  Snapper  Point,  which  forms  the  south 
point  of  entrance,  a  ledge,  nearly  dry  and  steep-to,  projects 


30  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

to  the  northward  oOO  yards,  but  Roldau  is  bold  to  within  100 
yards;  elsewhere  it  is  quite  clear,  with  a  depth  of  15  fathoms. 

"•The  western  cliannel,  be  ween  Shepherd  Cay  and  Iguana 
Point,  is  about  one-half  mile  wide.  The  eay  is  clear  to  within 
100  3'ards,  but  from  Iguana  Point  a  coral  ledge  shows  itself  to 
the  distance  of  200  yards  and  is  steep-to.  All  the  dangers  in 
the  interior  of  the  harbor  are  confined  to  the  south  shore  and 
easily  seen  from  aloft,  and  the  coral  ledges,  which  fringe  most 
parts  of  the  mangrove  shores  to  a  short  distance,  are  so  bold 
that  a  vessel  ma}"  lie  close  to  them.  Secure  anchorage  may 
be  fallen  up  anywhere,  as  most  convenient  for  watering, 
wooding,  or  refitting,  and  in  many  parts  large  vessels  may  lie 
alongside  the  shore.  Shepherd  Cay  and  the  adjoining  cays 
and  a  considerable  portion  of  the  mainland  adjacent  are  now 
almost  completely  cleared  and  covered  with  banana  and  cocoa 
plantations.  American  steamers  visit  the  several  plantations 
in  Ahnirante  Bay  and  collect  the  produce.  There  is  a  landing- 
wharf  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Roldan  Cay.  The  chief  sup- 
plies, however,  are  grown  on  the  banks  of  the  streams  on  the 
mainland,  principally  at  Saurian  and  Cultivation  creeks. 
Here  the  land  is  of  extreme  fertility  and  produces  all  the 
tropical  fruits  and  vegetables,  cotton,  coffee,  and  sugar  cane 
in  the  greatest  perfection  and  with  very  little  labor. 

"The  dense  forest  around  the  lagoon  also  yields  abundance 
of  most  excellent  ship  timber,  wiiich  is  used  on  the  island  to 
build  canoes  and  small  coasting  vessels.  The  most  valuable 
timber  is  the  eboe  tree,  wiiich  has  a  diameter  of  from  3  to  4 
feet  and  grows  straight  from  50  to  (30  feet,  with  large  spread- 
ing arms,  having  crooks  of  all  forms  and  dimensions.  The 
zapatilla  attains  about  the  same  height  and  is  from  2  to  3 
feet  in  diameter,  but  being  rather  brittle  it  re(iuires  caution 
in  felling.  The  sum-wood,  called  also  Spanish  elm  and  cap- 
aro,  is  of  the  same  dimensions,  saws  and  works  well,  and  is 
well  ada])ted  for  planking,  as  it  resists  the  trying  effects  of 
this  climate  better  than  the  woods  generally  used  for  this 
puri)ose.  This  tree  is  also  found  on  Popa  Island.  Cedar 
also  grows  to  great  size  and  perfection,  and  is  used  for  the 
construction  of  large  canoes,  dories,  and  piti^ans. 

"  Water. — Four  small  streams  flow  into  the  south  side  of 
Shepherd  Harbor,  but  they  are  only  navigable  for  small 
canoes  for  a  short  distance.  The  largest  is  Saurian  Creek, 
and  it  is  the  best  at  wliich  to  water;  a  vessel  of  large  class 
may  be  conveniently  moored  within  400  yards  of  the  mouth. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  31 

"  Directions. — Having  entered  Alinii-ante  JJay,  if  proceed- 
inii'  from  the  Boca  del  Toro,  the  nortli  end  of  Cristoval  Island 
ninst  be  approached  cantionsly  to  avoid  a  small  coral  ledge 
whiclilies  nortliwcstward  three-fourths  mile  fi'om  Coco  Point, 
the  northern extremit\' of  the  island;  the  channel  is  about  1^ 
miles  wide,  with  a  depth  of  15  fathoms.  In  running  or  work- 
ing, Juan  Point  must  not  be  bi-ouglit  westward  of  S.  02°  W. 
(S.  56°  W.  mag.)  until  the  ledge  is  passed. 

"Juan  Point  is  foul  to  the  distance  of  about  400  j-ards,  and 
from  Tristan  Point,  on  the  western  shore  of  the  bay,  a  flat 
coral  ledge,  dry  in  places,  extends  1^  miles  to  the  eastward, 
having  3  and  4  fathoms  on  its  outer  edge,  leaving  a  channel 
l^  miles  in  breadth.  The  Cristoval  side  must,  therefore,  be 
kept  aboard;  it  is  everywhere  bold  within  400  j'^ards,  and 
should  it  be  necessary  to  work  tli rough  this  part,  a  little  white 
lookout  hut  on  the  higliest  part  of  Shepherd  Caj^  must  not  be 
brought  to  the  southward  of  S.  17°  W.  (S.  11°  W.  mag.)  when 
standing  to  the  westward. 

"  The  southeast  end  of  the  Ti-istan  Reef  lies  with  Mangrove 
Point  well  oj^en  of  -Juan  Point.  To  the  southward  of  this 
there  is  no  danger;  either  channel  maj^  be  taken  into  the 
harbor,  but  the  southeastern  will  be  the  most  convenient  with 
the  sea  breeze,  and  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  steer  in  mid- 
ehannel  or  work  in  by  the  Eye,  avoiding  the  ledges  off  the 
entrance  points. 

"  From  the  Boca  del  Drago,  after  j)assing  Lime  Point  Bank, 
care  must  be  taken  to  haul  well  to  the  eastward  to  avoid  a 
coral  bank  extending  from  Donate  Point  on  the  western  shore, 
the  outer  end  of  wiiich  bears  S.  3°  W.  (S.  3°  E.  mag.)  nearly 
2^  miles  from  Lime  Point.  Tristan  Point  must  also  be 
verj-  cautiously  approached,  and  Juan  Point  not  brought  to 
the  northward  of  East  (N.  84°  E.  mag.),  or  a  depth  of  not 
less  than  K)  fathoms  be  maintained  before  Shepherd  hut  bears 
to  the  westward  of  S.  11°  W.  (S.  5°  W.  mag.).  With  the  hut 
bearing  S.  17°  AY.  (S.  11°  W.  mag.),  the  end  of  the  Ledge  will 
be  crossed  in  5  fathoms. 

"Crawl  Cay  Channel.— At  the  head  of  the  bight  formed 
by  the  islands  southwest  of  the  Zapatilla  cays,  between  Pro- 
vision and  Popa  islands,  is  the  Crawl  Cay  Channel,  leading 
into  the  Almirante  Lagoon.  This  cut  has  depths  of  not  less 
than  5^  fathoms,  between  detached  coi-al  shoals,  but  it  is  so 
intricate  and  narrow,  l)eing  in  some  parts  not  100  yards  wide. 


32  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

that  it  is  quite  impossible  to  give  safe  directions  for  its  navi- 
gation. The  sea,  however,  is  so  tranquil  and  clear  that  every 
coral  head  is  easily  seen,  and  the  tidal  stream  being  weak, 
the  pilotage  may  be  effected  by  the  eye  from  aloft,  provided 
the  weather  be  clear  and  favorable  and  the  sun  not  ahead. 

"  The  entrance  is  about  300  yards  in  width,  but  so  hidden 
by  mangrove  caj^s  within  that  it  would  be  impossible  for 
strangers  to  make  it  out,  and  the  shore  is  far  too  dangerous 
to  approach  without  being  certain  of  the  channel.  There  is  a 
conspicuous  saddle-shaped  hill  670  feet  high,  about  S.  62° 
W.  (S.  56°  W.  mag.)  of  the  anchorage  off  the  Zapatillas,  the 
south  hummock  of  which,  when  brought  to  bear  about  S.  55° 
W.  (S.  49°  W.  mag.),  and  in  line  with  the  northwestern 
extremity  of  Popa  island,  will  lead  to  the  opening. 

""The  north  part  of  Popa,  being  formed  of  lofty  trees  grow- 
ing straight  out  of  the  water,  appears  from  this  direction  bold 
and  distinct,  and  the  end  of  the  reef  which  runs  to  the  north- 
east off  Cobbler  Point  three-fourths  of  a  mile  and  forms  the 
east  side  of  the  entrance  is  steep-to  and  breaks  heavily. 

"The  west  extreme  of  the  westernmost  Zapatilla  island, 
bearing  N,  73°  E.  (N.  67°  E.  mag.)  astern,  leads  up  to  the 
entrance. 

"Zapatilla  Cays. — The  west  side  of  the  outer  part  of  the 
Tiger  Channel  is  bounded  by  two  narrow  sandy  islets  named 
Zapatilla,  which  appear  as  one  island,  their  general  direction 
being  west-northwest.  They  are  each  a  little  more  than  one- 
half  mile  long,  and  about  1,200  yards  apart,  a  ledge  almost 
dr}^  joining  them.  Both  are  thickly  wooded,  affording  excel- 
lent firewood,  easily  obtained;  the  tops  of  the  trees  are  about 
80  feet  above  the  sea. 
•  "The  surrounding  reef  extends  east-southeast  1  mile  from 
the  easternmost,  the  extreme  bearing  N.  70°  W.  (N.  76°  W. 
mag. )  4^  miles  from  the  Tiger  breaker.  Near  the  extremity 
the  reef  is  one-half  mile  broad  and  generalh^  shows  itself, 
but  it  skirts  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  cays  at  only  a 
short  distance.  From  the  westernmost  cay  it  stretches  off  a 
mile  in  a  northwest  direction,  and  at  this  extremity  is  1  mile 
broad.  Between  it  and  the  reef  off  Patino  Point  there  is  an 
intricate  channel  with  many  shallow  heads. 

"Anchorage. — On  the  south  side  of  Zapatilla  Cays 
anchorage  and  the  best  shelter  will  be  found  in  10  fathoms, 
sand  and  mud,  with  the  west  end  of  the  westernmost  cay 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  33 

bearing  X.  27°  E.  (N.  21°  E.  mag.)  about  1  mile  distant.  The 
soundings  are  very  irregular  and  change  suddenly  in  some 
parts  from  6  to  12  fathoms,  but  everywhere  the  bottom  is 
formed  of  mud  and  sand. 

"Caution. — The  edge  of  soundings  lies  about  6  miles 
northward  of  the  Zapatilla  Cays;  but  farther  west  the  edge 
is  close  to  the  land.  At  night  or  in  thick  weather,  if  eastward 
of  the  Zapatilla  Cays,  a  vessel  might  stand  in  until  the  first 
sounding  is  obtained,  but  this  must  be  done  cautiously. 

"POPA  Island,  which  forms  the  northwest  boundary  of 
Chiriqui  Lagoon,  is  of  moderate  elevation,  but  at  the  north 
end  there  is  a  very  remarkable  isolated  hill  named  Mount 
Popa,  with  a  rounded  summit  1,300  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
is  a  serviceable  object.  The  south  side  of  the  island  is  covered 
with  trees,  termed  by  the  traders  "sum-wood,"  which  grow 
to  large  dimensions  and  are  conveyed  to  Cartagena  for  ship- 
building. Good  coal  has  been  found  on  this  island.  There 
is  a  channel  into  the  lagoon  between  Water  Cay  and  Popa 
Island,  carrying  6  fathoms  water,  but  it  is  too  narrow  and 
tortuous  for  a  stranger  to  navigate.  Between  the  west  side 
of  Popa  Island  and  the  main  there  are  narrow  deep  channels 
leading  into  Almirante  Bay  navigable  for  trading  craft  and 
launches. 

"  Chiriqui  Lagoon. — The  Chiriqui  Lagoon  is  32  miles  long 
from  east  to  west,  12  miles  wide  in  the  center,  5  at  its  east 
and  10  at  its  western  extremity,  and  is  capable  of  receiving 
in  security  vessels  of  all  drafts.  The  entrance  between  Blue- 
field  Point  and  Water  Cay  is  3^  miles  wide,  and,  being  open 
north  and  south,  is  very  easily  recognized.  Bluefield  Point 
is  a  bold  rounded  headland. 

"There  is  not  less  than  8  fathoms  in  the  fairway  over  a  chan- 
nel, which  is  about  one-half  mile  wide,  and  there  is  no  bar. 
The  southern  part  of  the  lagoon  has  depths  of  15  to  20  fath- 
oms, decreasing  toward  the  shore. 

"The  principal  trading  places  are  the  Chirica  Mola  and 
Frenchman  Creek. 

"The  north  side  of  the  interior  of  Chiriqui  Lagoon  is 
thickly  fringed  with  detached  shoals  and  coral  heads,  steep-to; 
and  the  main  entrance  itself,  although  from  one-half  to  1 
mile  in  breadth,  is  so  intricate  that  with  sailing  vessels  it 
should  only  be  taken  with  the  sea  and  land  breezes.  These 
shoals  extend  to  a  distance  of  4^  miles  to  the  southward  of 
12312—03^ 3 


34  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Bluefield  Point,  and  so  block  up  the  east  end  of  the  lagoon 
that  that  part  is  only  navigable  for  small  handy  vessels.  The 
navigation  is  not  difficult,  for  the  water  is  so  clear  that  the 
eye  can  guide  from  aloft.  The  mangrove  creeks  at  this  end 
are  so  deep  that  the}'  afford  ready  jilaces  for  concealment. 

"  The  eastern  and  southern  shores  of  the  lagoon  for  a  very 
considerable  distance  inland,  as  far  as  Man  Creek,  17  miles 
from  the  east  end  of  the  lagoon,  are  low  and  swampy,  and 
there  are  only  a  verj^few  spots  in  this  space  where  a  landing- 
can  be  effected. 

"At  Man  Creek  the  base  of  a  great  spur  from  the  Cordil- 
lera reaches  the  shore  and  only  2  miles  inland  has  an  eleva- 
tion of  2,672  feet.  This  lofty  ridge  extends  about  5  miles  to 
the  westward,  when  the  Chiriqui  Vallej^,  from  .3  to  5  miles 
wide,  separates  it  from  another  ridge  2,840  feet  high,  at  the 
southwest  end  of  the  lagoon,  about  2^  miles  inland.  At  the 
foot  of  each  of  these  ranges  there  is  a  trading  post. 

"The  south  side  of  the  lagoon  Avestward  of  the  Chirica 
Mola  is  free  of  danger  and  maj^  be  safely  navigated  by  the 
lead.  The  west  side  is  low,  swampj^,  and  uninhabited;  it  is 
skirted  by  a  coral  ledge  from  one-fourth  to  three-fourths  of 
a  mile  distant,  with  6  and  7  fathoms  close-to. 

"The  easternmost  stream  that  flows  into  the  southeast 
corner  of  the  Chiriqui  Lagoon  is  the  Catabella  Creek;  it  is 
verj'  small  and  will  only  admit  canoes  to  a  short  distance. 

"Toro  Creek,  or  San  Diego  River,  empties  about  3^  miles 
westward  of  the  Catabella  and  communicates  with  the  Chirica 
Mola  just  below  its  rapids.  To  the  westward  of  the  entrance 
there  are  a  few  fishermen's  huts. 

"Water  Cay  is  low,  flat,  and  denseh^  wooded,  the  tops  of 
the  trees  at  the  east  end  reaching  to  the  height  of  about  120 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  eastern  end  of  this  cay  is  formed  of 
low  red-clay  cliffs,  and  very  close  off  the  eastern  extremity 
there  is  a  small  dry  rock,  which,  on  a  S.  24°  E.  (S.  30°  PI  mag.) 
bearing,  seen  just  open  of  the  point,  is  the  leading  mark  into 
the  lagoon.  A  reef,  on  which  the  sea  breaks  heavily,  stretches 
off  from  it  300  3-ards  and  skirts  the  whole  of  the  northeast 
side  of  the  ca3^  At  Goo  yards  from  the  east  point  the  depth 
is  5  fathoms. 

"  Chirica  Mola  River  is  the  only  stream  of  any  magni- 
tude in  the  lagoon  and  enters  it  4  miles  to  the  westward  of 
Toro  Creek.     It  has  formed  a  small  delta,  which  projects  out 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  35 

to  a  well-defined  sandy  point  at  the  entrance,  S.  5°  E.  (S.  11° 
E.  mag.)  Oi  miles  from  Hlnefield  Point.  On  its  eastern  side, 
about  H  miles  from  the  ejitrance,  the  shore  forms  a  small 
cove,  named  Irish  Bay,  which  has  3  to  4  fathoms,  nnder  the 
mangroves.  Small  trading-  coasters  generally  collect  their 
cargoes  here  from  the  small  settlements  aiound.  They  lie 
completely  hidden  by  the  high  trees. 

"A  small  low  mangrove  island  divides  the  mouth  of  the 
Chirica  Mola  into  two  channels,  the  eastern  of  which  is  alone 
navigable,  and  on  the  bar  during  the  dry  season  there  is  less 
than  2  feet  of  water.  At  this  period  the  water  is  brackish 
about  2  miles  above  the  entrance.  The  banks  are  low  and 
inundated  for  a  distance  of  about  3  miles,  whence  they  rise, 
and  at  the  first  rapids  are  7  feet  above  the  rivei-.  To  this 
point,  a  distance  of  about  12  miles,  the  stream  varies  in 
breadth  from  100  feet  to  nearly  000  feet  and  in  depth  from 
2  to  12  feet.  As  already- observed,  at  the  commencement  of 
the  rapids  a  branch  of  the  river  turns  to  the  southeast,  form- 
ing the  Toro  Creek.  Above  the  rapids  the  bed  of  the  river 
is  so  full  of  rocks  that  its  ascent  can  only  be  accomplished  in 
small  strong  canoes  and  with  very  great  labor. 

"Settlement. — About  10  miles  above  the  landing  at  the 
rapids,  on  the  right  bank,  is  the  most  considerable  village  of 
the  Valiente  Indians,  and  a  trading  post  for  a  long  time  has 
been  established  here.  Cotton  and  hardware  manufactures 
are  brought  from  Jamaica  and  bartered  for  sarsaparilla, 
vanilla,  cattle,  and  hides.  The  situation  is  said  to  be  healthy,  . 
and  communicates  by  footpaths  with  the  Biarra  and  Cata- 
bella  creeks. 

"The  coast  westward  of  the  Chirica  Mola  forms  a  bight 
5|  miles  wide  and  about  3  feet  deep.  The  interior  consists 
of  small  mangrove  lagoons,  in  which  the  manatee  is  frequently 
captured.  The  west  end  of  this  bight  terminates  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Warri  or  Biarri  River,  the  eastern  entrance 
point  of  which  forms  a  well-defined  and  easily  recognized 
projection.  The  entrance  of  the  Biarra  is  about  20  feet  wide, 
and  on  the  bar  there  is  only  a  foot  of  water  in  the  dr}' season. 
Canoes  ascend  to  the  first  rapids,  about  8  miles  from  the 
mouth,  where  there  is  a  small  settlement.  From  this  river 
the  mangrove  shore  of  its  delta  again  recedes  inward  and, 
curving  to  the  northwestward,  forms  a  large  bay,  about  8 
miles  wide  and  3  deep.     About  3  miles  from  the  Biarra,  at 

W.  T.  CONWAY 

\s\  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 


36  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

the  foot  of  the  highlands  already  described,  is  the  entrance 
of  Man  Creek,  which,  in  the  rainy  season,  is  navigable  for 
canoes  two  days'  journej'. 

"From  the  head  of  the  hay  a  shallow  bank  extends  out 
nearly  2  miles,  and  in  the  southwest  corner,  by  the  side  of  a 
rivulet  at  the  base  of  the  hills,  there  is  a  trading  post. 

"Thence  the  coast  is  low  and  swampy,  forming  the  delta 
of  the  Chiriqui,  which  river  enters  the  lagoon  at  the  north- 
west point  of  the  bay.  The  shore  in  this  space  is  closely 
skirted  by  a  coral  ledge,  steep-to.  The  entrance  of  the  Chi- 
riqui River  is  so  small  that  a  sti-anger  will  have  great  diffi- 
culty in  discovering  it  among  the  narrow  openings  in  the 
mangroves.  In  the  dry  season  the  bar  is  impassable,  except 
by  hauling  over  it,  and  in  the  heavy  rains  the  numerous 
rapids  are  too  formidable  even  for  canoes. 

"From  the  Chiriqui  the  low  swampy  shore  which  bounds 
the  Chiriqui  Valley  trends  westerly  5  miles  to  Frenchman 
Creek.     About  midway  is  Cabbage  Creek,  of  no  importance. 

"Frenchman  Creek  emerges  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  ridge 
which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  Chiriqui  Valley,  and, 
although  unnavigable,  taking  its  rise  in  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains, it  is  a  constant  running  stream  of  good  water.  The 
land  to  the  southwestward  and  w'estward  of  it  is  firm  and 
wooded  all  the  waj^  to  the  southw^est  end  of  the  lagoon,  and, 
being  free  of  morass,  the  locality  has  been  well  chosen  for  the 
establishment  of  a  trading  post.  The  settlement  stands  on 
the  west  side  of  the  entrance  of  the  creek  and  around  it  is  a 
small  cultivated  space,  which  is  most  fertile  in  the  produc- 
tion of  all  tropical  fruits  and  vegetables.  This  end  of  the 
lagoon  also  abounds  in  turtle  in  the  season. 

"The  position, indeed,  has  been  found  so  favorably  situated, 
and,  comparatively,  so  healthy,  that  a  bridle  path  has  been 
opened  along  the  west  side  of  the  Chiriqui  Valley  and  across 
the  mountains  to  Ciudad  David,  near  the  Pacific,  b}"  means 
of  which  cattle  have  been  brought  from  thence  to  this  spot 
and  then  conveyed  in  canoes  to  the  Boca  del  Toro  settlement 
in  three  days.  The  shore  is  here  quite  clear,  and  there  is 
excellent  anchorage  in  7  fathoms  about  one-half  mile  distant. 
Numerous  small  streams  descend  from  the  table  ridge  into 
the  w^est  side  of  the  lagoon,  but  the  Robalo  is  the  only  one 
navigated  bj'  small  canoes. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  37 

"  RoBALO  River  entrance  lies  near  the  southwest  corner  of 
the  Chiriqui  Lagoon,  on  the  north  side  of  a  shallow  mangrove 
bay,  about  2  miles  westward  of  Frenchman  Creek.  Although 
\evY  narrow,  it  is  navigated  by  the  sarsaparilla  pickers  in 
their  little  canoes,  two  or  three  days'  journey,  according  to 
the  state  of  the  river.  At  the  end  of  one  day's  paddling  rap- 
ids are  met  with,  and  after  two  days' ascent  it  receives  a 
small  stream  from  the  southward,  whicli  throws  so  large  a 
body  of  water  into  the  main  branch  as  to  render  it  almost 
impassable  after  very  heavy  rains.  The  banks  are  said  to  be 
densely  covered  with  trees  of  the  largest  dimensions. 

"AVater. — The  best  place  in  the  lagoon  to  water  is  at 
Frenchman  Creek,  There  is  also  an  excellent  and  convenient 
spring  in  the  little  sandy  bay  on  the  east  side  of  Blueheld 
Point,  olf  which  there  is  anehoi'age;  it  is,  however,  difficult 
to  get  at,  and  so  exposed  as  to  be  dangerous  Avith  strong  west- 
erly breezes  and  land  winds. 

"Directions — Tiger  Channel.- — Vessels  bound  into  the 
Chiriqui  Lagoon  with  the  sea  breeze  should  approach  by  the 
Tiger  Channel,  which,  between  Tiger  Breaker  and  the  east  end 
of  Zapatilla  Reef,  is  4  miles  wide.  After  passing  southward 
of  the  breaker  the  opening  into  the  lagoon  is  readily  distin- 
guished, and  a  course  should  be  shaped  to  pass  from  three- 
fourths  to  1  mile  from  the  east  end  of  Water  Cay.  From  this 
a  southerly  course  must  be  taken,  until  the  west  extreme  of 
the  Zapatilla  Cays  is  in  line  with  the  eastern  extremity  of 
Water  Cay,  bearing  X.  24°  W.  (X.  30°  W.  mag.),  taking  care 
to  bring  these  marks  on  before  Valiente  Peak  is  in  line  with 
the  south  end  of  Toro  Cays. 

"  Or,  when  the  extremities  of  Water  and  Zapatilla  cays  are 
in  line  as  above,  a  very  small  rock,  3  or  4  feet  above  the  sea, 
close  off  the  north  side  of  Water  Ca^^  Point,  will  be  seen  just 
open  of  it,  and  this  mark  will  lead  between  the  shoals.  When 
Valiente  Peak  is  over  a  hut  at  the  east  end  of  a  small  sandy 
cay,  on  the  east  side  of  Bluefield  Point,  bearing  X.  33°  E.  (X. 
27  E.  mag),  a  vessel  will  be  inside  them,  and  may  shape  her 
course  as  convenient.  It  is  necessary,  however,  to  observe 
that  it  will  not  be  prudent  for  a  large  vessel  to  goto  the  east- 
ward of  the  Chirica  Mola,  to  the  entrance  of  which  the  lead- 
ing mark,  or  the  same  course,  will  carry  her. 

"The  rock  off  Water  Cay  lies  so  close  to  the  point  that  it 
must  be  used  very  cautiously  as  a  mark,  and  onl}^  when  the 


38  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Zapatilla  Cay  is  not  seen.     As  the  tops  of  the  trees  on  the 
west  end  of  the  latter  cay  are  only  80  feet  above  the  sea,  it 
will  perhaps  be  necessary  and  safer  to  gnide  the  vessel  from 
aloft,  so  as  to  keep  that  mark  in  sight  as  long  as  possible 
instead  of  trusting  to  the  rock  and  bearing. 

"Great  attention  is  requisite,  for  the  water  at  entrance  of 
the  lagoon  is  so  discolored  that  the  shoals  can  not  be  seen, 
and  as  they  are  steep-to,  wi':h  deep  and  exceedingly  irregular 
soundings,  the  lead  is  almost  useless,  and  there  is  only  a 
space  of  about  400  yards  to  spare  from  tlie  shoals  on  the  west 
side  of  the  channel. 

"There  is  another  channel  to  the  westward  of  the  above, 
full  three- fourths  mile  wide  from  east  to  west,  but  so  difficult 
of  access,  for  want  of  marks,  that  without  the  assistance  of 
a  pilot  it  is  dangerous  to  navigate.  However,  with  some  local 
knowledge  the  following  directions  will  assist  to  guide  safely 
into  the  lagoon  in  a  case  of  necessity: 

"Pass  three-fourths  mile  eastward  of  Water  Cay,  and  when 
Water  Cay  Point  bears  W.  (S.  84°  W.  mag.)  steer  S.  23°  W. 
(S.  17°  W.  mag.)  until  it  bears  north  (N.  0°  W.  mag.),  thence 
a  south  (S.  6°  E.  mag.)  course  will  lead  through  between  the 
shoals  at  the  distance  of  about  800  yards. 

"If  bound  to  the  southwest  part  of  the  lagoon,  when  Yali- 
ente  Peak  is  in  line  with  the  north  side  of  Bluefield  Point,  a 
course  as  most  convenient  may  be  pursued;  but  if  bound  to 
the  Chirica  Mola,  it  will  be  necessarj^  to  stand  on  until  Vali- 
ente  Peak  bears  N.  30°  E.  (N.  33°  E.  mag.)  or  Popa  Hill  N. 
35  W.  (N.  41°  W.  mag.),  when  a  S.  51°  E.  (S.  57°  E.  mag.) 
course  Avill  lead  to  the  entrance  of  that  river. 

"In  leaving  the  Chiriqui  Lagoon  it  will  be  necessarj^  to  wait 
for  the  land  wind,  either  in  the  evening — if  it  comes  off:"  earl}", 
which  it  very  frequently  does — or  in  the  morning,  soon  after 
daylight.  To  run  through  the  eastern  channel  the  leading 
mark  must  be  brought  on  from  a  iDOsition  well  to  the  south- 
ward, with  Valiente  Peak  bearing  to  the  northward  of  N.  34° 
E.  (N.  28°  E.  mag.).  Steer  out,  with  the  east  end  of  Water 
Cay  in  line  with  the  west  end  of  the  western  Zapatilla  Ca}^, 
N.  24°  W.  (N.  30  W.  mag.),  and  when  Valiente  Peak  comes 
in  line  with  the  east  side  of  Bluetield  headland,  N.  45°  E.  (N. 
39°  E.  mag.),  j^ou  will  be  between  the  outer  shoals,  and  a 
north  (N.  G°  VV.  mag.)  course  will  lead  clear  out  to  sea. 

"To  run  by  the  western  channel,  the  east  point  of  Water 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  39 

Ca}'  must  be  broiii;]it  to  bear  north  (N.  G°  W.  mag.)  (the 
course  through)  befoie  Mount  Popa  bears  westward  of  N.  35° 
W.  (N.  41°  W.  mag.).  When  Valiente  Peak  is  seen  over 
Little  Toro  Cay,  N.  50°  E.  (N.  50°  E.  mag.),  the  shoals  will 
be  cleared,  and  a  course  to  sea  may  then  be  shaped. 

"Should  it  be  necessaiy  to  work  up  from  ihe  west  end  of 
the  lagoon,  the  north  shore  must  be  approached  very  cau- 
tiously, for  no  marks  can  be  given  to  avoid  the  shoals  off  that 
side.  As  the  south  side  can  be  navigated  by  the  lead,  it  will 
be  better  not  to  stand  more  than  about  halfway  across  from 
tliat  shore,  until  the  leading  marks  for  the  channels  are 
nearly  on. 

"Tides. — It  is  liigh  water,  full  and  change,  about  noon,  and 
the  spring  rise  in  the  Chiriqui  Lagoon  is  about  1  foot.  In  the 
interior  of  the  lagoon  there  is  seldom  any  tidal  stream,  but 
an  outset  to  the  northward,  according  to  the  state  of  the 
rivers.  In  the  dry  season,  from  March  to  June,  off  the  Chirica 
Mola,  and  as  far  out  as  the  entrance  of  the  main  channel,  the 
strength  of  the  ebb  is  from  one-half  to  1  knot  an  hour,  and 
there  is  sometimes  a  weak  flood  stream;  but  outside  and  in 
the  small  channels  to  the  westward  there  is  a  continual  out- 
set, running  at  the  rate  of  1  or  2  knots,  and  after  long  heavy 
rains  even  as  much  as  3  knots,  in  the  main  channel. 

"  Bluefield  Point,  3  miles  S.  30°  W.  (S.  24°  W.  mag.)  from 
Cape  Valiente,  is  a  bold  bluff  wooded  headland  180  feet  high 
and  easily  recognized.  About  200  yards  to  the  westward  of 
it  there  is  a  small  black  rock,  G  feet  out  of  water,  the  western 
side  of  which,  as  well  as  the  southwest  extremity  of  the  bluff, 
is  steep-to. 

"From  abreast  the  black  rock  a  sand}^  beach,  backed  by 
mangrove  swamps,  trends  about  northeast  GOO  yards,  and 
from  the  north  end  a  dr^'  coral  ledge  extends  aliout  200  yards 
to  the  Little  Toro  Rock. 

"Toro  Cays,  about  one-half  mile  westward  of  Little  Toro 
Rock,  are  small  islets,  lying  so  close  together  that  they  gen- 
erally appear  as  one  narrow  island,  about  one-fourth  mile  in 
length,  from  north  to  south.  They  are  formed  of  dark  indu- 
rated clay,  in  which  are  embedded  thin  spiral  layers  of  peb- 
bles and  stones,  and  their  summits  are  covered  with  wood. 
From  a  northeast  and  southwest  direction  the  southernmost 
of  these  cays  are  seen  to  rise  perpendicularl}^  from  the  sea, 
and  have  a  similar  appearance  to  those  off  Cape  Valiente. 


40  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

The  f^roiind  is  all  foul  inside  of  them,  and  a  led.^e  extends 
from  the  northernmost  north-northwestward  -fOO  yards. 
There  are  5  fathoms  at  400  yards  to  the  westward. 

"Bluefield  Rock,  a  small  perpendicular  black  rock  32 
feet  high,  with  two  or  three  remarkable  trees  on  its  summit, 
is  easil}'  recognized  from  the  westward;  it  lies  on  the  south 
edge  of  the  Valiente  bank,  800  yards  to  the  northward  of 
Creek  Point,  and  marks  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel 
into  Bluefield  Creek. 

"Bluefield  Creek,  on  the  south  side  of  Cape  Valiente, 
is  4y  miles  in  extent,  east  and  west,  but  the  south  side  of  the 
creek  is  so  indented  that  its  breadth  varies  considerabh'.  The 
narrowest  part  of  the  entrance  is  800  j-ards  across,  but  within 
it  is  nearly  1:^  miles  wide  in  some  jilaces  and  has  a  depth  suf- 
ficient to  receive  vessels  of  large  draft  in  perfect  security. 
There  is  no  bar. 

"  The  interior  is  exceedingly  picturesque.  The  vessel  will 
appear  to  lie  in  a  deep  valley,  the  gorgeous  densely  wooded 
hills  rising  on  the  north  side  to  the  Valiente  Peak  and  on  the 
south  side  to  an.  elevation  of  180  to  500  feet.  The  eastern 
end  is  swamp}^  and  bounded  by  low  mangroves.  From  the 
northeast  end  a  pathway  leads  across  the  narrow  isthmus 
which  connects  the  peninsula  to  the  main,  and  at  the  south- 
east end  a  small  narrow  ridge  of  irregular  hills  rises  to  the 
height  of  640  feet. 

"On  the  south  shore  of  the  creek,  in  a  small  plain  to  the 
eastward  of  Carolina  Point,  there  is  a  small  stream  of  excel- 
lent water,  and  all  around  the  Valiente  Peninsula  maj^  be 
seen  the  detached  huts  of  the  Valiente  Indians,  with  small 
cultivated  spots  here  and  there.  The  huts  of  this  tribe  will 
be  elsewhere  met  with,  scattered  around  the  adjacent  lagoons 
and  at  the  entrances  of  the  small  rivers  on  the  coast,  but  this 
is  the  only  spot  where  they  appear  to  have  formed  a  regular 
settlement;  sometimes,  however,  the  i)eninsula  will  be  found 
entirely  deserted,  for  in  their  long  fishing  and  hunting  excur- 
sions thej^  are  ac(!ompanied  by  their  whole  families. 

"  Scrubby  Point,  the  southwest  entrance  point  of  Bluefield 
Creek,  is  low  and  wood3^  It  is  the  northeast  extremity  of  a 
narrow  neck  of  land  three-fourths  mile  in  length,  which  ter- 
minates to  the  southwest  at  Bluefield  Point,  the  east  point  of 
entrance  to  the  Chiriqui  Lagoon. 

"Supplies. — Water  may  be  obtained  from  the  stream  on  the 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  41 

south  shore,  from  which  a  shallow  flat  extends  some  distance, 
bnt  by  means  of  a  long  hose  the  water  can  be  conveyed  into 
the  boats.  Wood  will  be  found  all  around,  but,  when  time  is 
not  an  object,  it  will  be  better  to  proceed  to  the  Zapatilla  Cays 
for  this  purpose,  where  there  will  be  less  risk  to  the  health  of 
the  crew.  The  seine  may  be  hauled  with  great  success  in  any 
of  the  sandy  bays,  but  it  is  necessary  to  be  prepared  to  meet 
with  small  alligators  and  to  be  careful  that  the  people  are  not 
electrified  bj^  the  torpedo. 

"The  papaw,  a  most  excellent  vegetable,  grows  almost  wild 
all  around  the  inlet,  and  the  banks  of  several  of  the  streams 
on  the  main  afford  an  abundant  supplj^of  bananas  and  plan- 
tains. There  is  also  fair  hunting,  but  it  is  attended  with 
some  risk.  The  dense  rank  underwood  is  infested  with  snakes 
of  the  most  venomous  description,  and  a  season  seldom  passes 
without  a  fatal  accident  occurring  among  the  sarsaparilla 
pickers. 

"Directions. — The  extremity  of  the  Torro  Ledge  is  about 
west  of  Scrubby  Point,  and  from  it  to  the  nearest  point  of 
Valiente  Bank  the  channel  into  Bliiefield  Creek  is  a  mile  wide, 
with  11  to  18  fathoms  water,  except  about  midway,  where 
there  is  a  depth  of  8  fathoms.  Both  the  edge  of  the  Valiente 
Bank  and  the  opposite  bold  projecting  points  which  separate 
the  bays  are  steep-to,  but  the  bays  themselves  are  very  shal- 
low within  the  lines  of  the  points. 

"Vessels  having  occasion  to  visit  Blnefield  Creek  had  bet- 
ter enter  bj^  the  Tiger  Channel,  taking  care  in  so  doing  to 
give  the  Tiger  Breaker  a  wide  berth  and  not  to  haul  in  to  the 
southward  nntil  the  Toro  Cay  bears  eastward  of  S.  11°  E.  (S. 
17°  E.  mag.).  By  waiting  until  the  sea  ])reeze  is  established 
the  channel  may  be  navigated  without  the  necessit}^  of  mak- 
ing a  board.  Steer  toward  Bluefield  Point,  taking  care  not 
to  bring  it  to  bear  westward  of  south  (S.  G°  E.  mag.)  to  avoid 
the  edge  of  the  Valiente  Bank,  until  the  hummock  on  the 
south  end  of  the  Bluefield  Ridge  at  the  head  of  the  creek  is 
in  line  with  Carolina  Point,  S.  74°  E.  (S.  80°  E.  mag.). 

"This  mark  will  lead  nearly  in  mid-channel  to  the  narrow- 
est part,  when  the  anchorage  may  be  steered  for.  It  will  be 
better,  however,  not  to  go  farther  in  than  to  bring  Cai^e  Val- 
iente in  line  with  a  remarkable  bluff  named  Observatory 
Point,  which  lies  a  short  distance  to  the  southward  of  it,  and 
anchor  in  11  fathoms,  mud,  with  a  large  hut  on  the  summit 


42  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

bearing  N.  23°  W.  (N.  29°  W.  mag.),  and  Bluefleld  Rock 
about  N.  69°  W.  (N.  75°  W.  mag.)-  A  position  to  the  east- 
ward of  this  loses  the  advantage  of  the  breeze,  by  no  means 
desirable  in  so  confined  a  vallej'and  in  such  a  fearful  climate 
as  this. 

"A  bank  of  2  fathoms  is  chartered  in  mid-channel  just 
within  Carolina  Point,  with  deep  water  on  either  side;  and 
there  are  several  shallow  patches  farther  in,  with  deep  water 
between  them. 

"Tides. — It  is  high  water,  full  and  change,  in  Bluefield 
Creek  at  12h.  30in.,  and  the  rise  is  about  a  foot.  There  is  no 
perceptible  stream  on  the  flood,  but  the  ebb  will  assist  a  ves- 
sel in  working  out. 

"  Valiente  Peak. — From  Cape  Valiente,  the  northwestern 
extremit}^  of  the  Valiente  Peninsula,  to  Chiriqui  Point  a  rocky 
shore  extends  easterly  2|  miles,  and  bold,  irregular,  densely 
wooded  hills  rise  abruptlj'^  from  the  shore  to  the  height  of  500 
or  600  feet.  On  ihe  western  shore  of  the  peninsula  and  about 
a  mile  southeastward  of  Cape  Valiente  one  of  these  hills  ter- 
minates in  Valiente  Peak,  722  feet  high,  which,  being  much 
higher  than  any  other  summit  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  is  a 
most  remarkable  object  and  excellent  guide  from  a  long 
distance. 

"Valiente  Cays. — From  Cape  Valiente  the  western  face 
of  the  promontorj^  turns  sharplj^  in  a  southeast  direction  for 
If  miles  and  is  fronted  by  a  shallow  coral  bank  extending  1^ 
miles.  The  north  side  of  this  bank  is  bounded  by  a  range  of 
small  islets  and  rocks,  forming  the  southern  side  of  the  VaM- 
ente  Channel,  which  is  here  1|  miles  broad.  Near  the  west- 
ern edge  of  the  bank  thei'e  is  also  a  small  low  rock,  named 
Middle  Rock,  with  sunken  rocks  between  it  and  the  ca3^s. 

"These  islets  and  the  Tiger  Cays  appear  to  be  of  jn-ecisel}^ 
the  same  formation  as  those  lying  close  off  Escudo  de  Ve- 
ragua.  Those  off  Cape  Valiente  are  equally  remarkable, 
being  perforated  in  the  same  way  and  crowned  with  cocoa- 
nut  trees.  They  appear  to  be  wasting  from  the  action  of  the 
waves,  and  one  has  been  washed  away. 

"Chiriqui  Rocks. — From  Chiriqui  Point  a  coral  ledge  called 
Chiriqui  Rocks  extends  about  west-nortliwest  Ij  miles,  and 
terminates  at  400  yards  beyond  Barren  Rock,  10  feet  high, 
williiji  which  are  several  rugged,  rock}"  islets  from  50  to  150 
feet  above  water. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  43 

"Valiente  Channel,  between  Ban-en  Rock  and  the  Tiger 
Caj^s,  has  depths  of  G  to  0  fathoms  on  either  side  of  Valiente 
Breaker. 

"Valiente  Breaker,  N.  35°  E.  (N.  20°  E.  mag.),  U  miles 
from  the  extremity  of  Cape  Valiente,  is  a  very  small  head  of 
3  fathoms,  steep-to,  which  breaks  hea\Mly  when  rollers  pre- 
vail, even  in  the  finest  weather,  and  is  extremely  dangei'oiis. 
Between  it  and  Barren  Rock  there  are  depths  of  10  and  11 
fathoms,  and  l^etween  it  and  the  Tiger  Cays  tlie  channel  is 
three-fourths  mile  wide,  with  G  to  0  fathoms. 

"Tiger  Cays,  which  bound  the  north  side  of  the  Valiente 
Channel,  consist  of  three  small  red-clay  islets  about  a  mile  in 
extent  from  east  to  west.  The  easternmost  and  largest  lies 
1|  miles  fi'om  Cape  Valiente,  and  is  covered  with  brushwood, 
but  on  the  others  are  trees  with  their  tops  about  35  feet  above 
the  sea.  Tlie  ca3\s  are  connected  and  surrounded  at  a  short 
distance  by  a  coral  ledge,  almost  dry,  preventing  landing  any- 
where, although  it  is  steep-to. 

"Tiger  Rock.— At  1,200  yards N.  G4°  AV.  (N.  70°  W.  mag.) 
of  the  westernmost  of  the  Tiger  Cays  lies  Tiger  Rock,  a  small 
detached  rock  G  feet  above  the  sea  and  steep-to,  having  14 
fathoms  water  between. 

"  Tiger  Breaker,  800  j^ards  N.  71°  W.  (N.  77°  W.  mag.) 
of  Tiger  Rock,  is  a  small  isolated  breaker,  also  steep-to  and 
extremely  dangerous,  for  it  does  not  always  show  itself. 
From  Tiger  Breaker  Valiente  Peak  and  Cape  are  in  line 
and  Toro  Cay  bears  8.  3°  W.  (S.  3°  E.  mag.). 

"Directions. — The  widest  channel  is  westward  of  Val- 
iente Breaker  and  between  it  and  Tiger  Cays. 

"Little  Toro  Rock,  a  sugar-loafed  islet  100  feet  higli,  in 
line  with  oi;  open  of  Cape  Valiente,  bearing  S.  33°  W.  (S.  27° 
W.  mag),  leads  westward  of  the  breaker  in  about  0  fathoms. 
When  Barren  Rock  bears  N.  85°  E.  (N.  70°  E.  mag.)  keep  it 
astern  on  that  bearing  until  Bluefield  Point  bears  S.  5°  E. 
(S.  11°  E.  mag.),  then  steer  for  it.  This  mark  will  lead  west- 
ward of  Valiente  Bank  and  up  to  the  leading  mark  for  Blue- 
field  Creek.  If  proceeding  into  Chiriqui  Lagoon,  pass  about 
1  mile  westward  of  Toro  Cays  and  follow  the  directions  given 
for  Tiger  Channel. 

"The  flood  stream  in  Valiente  Channel  is  charted  as  run- 
ning one-half  knot  an  hour  to  the  southwest  and  the  ebb  from 
1  to  2  knots  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  strength  of  the  lat- 


44  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

ter  beiug  caused  bj^  the  easterly  current  and  the  outset  from 
the  higoon.  This  increases  the  swell,  which  is  generall}^  so 
heavy  that  it  is  by  no  means  a  safe  channel  to  work  out  of  nor 
for  a  stranger  to  enter,  for  the  break  over  the  Valiente  Rock 
may  not  occur  for  long  intervals. 

"Valiente  Peninsula. — From  Chiriqui  Point  the  shore 
trends  about  southeast.  5  miles  to  Tobobo  Bluff,  which  forms 
the  southeastern  extremity  of  the  Valiente  Peninsula,  having 
on  its  northern  side  a  small  cove  with  bold  irregular  hills 
rising  from  it  all  along.  The  beach  is  of  white  sand,  skirted 
by  small  islets  and  detached  rocks  and  reefs  to  the  distance 
of  200  to  400  yards,  ui3on  which  the  surf  breaks  furiously. 
It  is  remarkable  that  this  is  the  first  clear  white  sandy  l)each 
met  with  to  the  westward  of  Chagres.  P^lsewhere,  as  far  to 
the  westward  as  Grey  town,  the  beaches  are  com  posed  of  dark, 
almost  black,  ferruginous  sand,  which  is  so  impregnated  with 
minute  metallic  particles  that  a  magnet  thrust  into  it  will 
frequently  be  brought  out  completely  coated  with  them.  The 
only  exception  is  the  above  beach  and  the  sea  or  northern 
sides  of  the  outlying  caj's  and  islands,  which  are  bounded  by 
beaches  of  pure  white  calcareous  sand. 

"It  is  also  remarkable  that  the  beach  of  the  Mosquito  shore 
northward  of  Grej^town  is  in  many  parts  similar,  except  that 
the  sparkling  appearance  seen  there  is  owing  to  small  parti- 
cles of  mica,  which  at  first  sight  have  been  mistaken  for  gold 
dust. 

"Plantain  Cay,  northeastward  1  mile  from  Tobobo  Bluff, 
is  a  small  but  remarkable  wooded  islet,  rising  abruptly  from 
the  sea  to  the  height  of  L'30  feet,  and  between  it  and  the  bluff 
there  is  a  similar  cay,  named  '  Tobobo,'  but  only  150  feet 
high.  Between  these  cays  there  is  a  narrow  channel,  adapted 
for  coasting  vessels.  Plantain  Cay  has  some  small  rocks, 
steep-to,  close  off  its  north  side. 

"Tobobo  Bank,  5^  miles  eastward  from  Plantain  Cay,  is 
a  small  coral  bank  with  7  to  10  fathoms  water,  which  to^is  with 
heayj"  rollers  and  is  exceedingly  alarming;  and  N.  51°  E. 
(N.  45°  E.  mag.)  5^  miles  of  the  cay  there  are  10  fathoms,  on 
a  nari'ow  coral  ledge,  with  16  to  17  fathoms,  which  lies  just 
within  the  edge  of  soundings  and  has  30  fathoms  inside  it. 
Vessels  should  approach  this  neighborhood  with  great  caution. 

"Tobobo  Bight. — From  Tobobo  Blutf,  a  bold  prominent 
headland  500  feet  high,  the  shore  trends  to  the  southeastward 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  45 

and  eastward  to  Old  Bess  Point  and  forms  a  deep  irregular 
mangrove  bight.  The  inner  part  of  this  bight  is  ver}'  shallow 
and  skirted  bj^  a  dangerous  reef,  which  breaks  heavily  about 
a  mile  from  the  shore  and  is  steep-to.  There  are  several 
small  openings,  however,  forming  boat  channels  intoTobobo 
Creek,  in  the  northwest  corner. 

"There  are  two  huts  on  the  south  side  of  Tobobo  Bluff  and 
a  spring  of  good  water  in  a  small  sandy  cove  to  the  north- 
ward of  them. 

"From  Old  Bess  Point  the  coast  trends  about  southeast  3 
miles  to  Coco  Plum  Point,  which  is  about  a  mile  to  the  north- 
northwest  of  the  entrance  of  the  Cana  and  is  fringed  with  a 
reef  to  a  considerable  distance.  Abont  midway,  close  to  the 
shore,  there  is  a  small  cluster  of  islets  named  the  Tooley  Cays, 
and  abreast  them  the  wooded  land  rises  to  the  height  of  460 
feet. 

"EscuDO  DE  Veragua  is  an  island  lH  miles  longfrofii  east 
to  west  and  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  broad,  and  its  south- 
western extremity  lies  east-northeastward  10  miles  from  Coco 
Plum  Point,  the  nearest  part  of  tlie  mainland.  It  is  low  and 
woody,  and  the  trees  grow  so  very  regular  in  height  that 
when  first  sighted  it  appears  like  a  small  island  of  tableland 
which,  when  approaching  from  the  northward,  will  be  seen 
to  slope  down  gradually  to  the  westwai-d.  The  eastern  part 
of  the  island  is  formed  of  soft,  reddish-brown,  perpendicular 
cliffs  from  40  to  50  feet  high,  in  which  are  embedded  several 
species  of  marine  shells. 

"From  the  destructive  action  of  the  waves,  however,  the 
cliffs  have  been  cut  into  and  separated  here  and  there  at  very 
short  distances  from  the  body  of  the  island,  forming  small 
islets;  some  of  them  have  been  pierced  through,  and  the 
arches,  being  crowned  by  dense  foliage  and  trees  from  70 
to  80  feet  high,  have  a  most  remarkable  and  picturesque 
appearance  when  seen  from  a  short  distance.  The  west  end 
and  south  side  of  the  island  are  very  low  and  swampy  and 
bounded  by  a  dark  sandy  beach,  similar  to  that  found  on 
the  mainland.  The  southwestern  extremity  is  steep-to  and 
affords  the  only  landing  place,  which,  however,  is  at  most 
times  difficult  of  access  on  account  of  fhe  heavy  surf.  From 
the  west  end  a  reef  extends  about  200  yards,  and  also  skirts 
the  north  shore  at  a  distance  of  one-fourth  mile  and  the  east 
end  one-half  mile  outside  the  little  clay  islets;  from  the  mid- 
dle of  the  south  side  a  ledge  extends  about  one-half  mile. 


46  TiOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"  Diii-inc  the  rainy  season  several  small  rivnlets  force  them- 
selves tlii'ough  the  sand  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  but 
the  supply  of  good  water  is  so  scantj^  that  the  few  fishermen 
who  visit  it  in  the  turtle  season  are  obliged  to  dig  wells 

"Anchorage. — A  vessel  may  anchor  off  the  southwest  end 
of  Escudo  de  Veragua,  but  will  ride  extremelj'^  uneasy,  and 
not  at  all  times  safe;  for  although  the  soundings  show;  a 
sandy  and  gravel  bottom,  it  is  but  a  thin  stratum  over  a  flat 
shelf  of  coral,  which  does  not  afford  good  holding  ground. 
Should  it  be  necessary  to  take  shelter  here,  the  west  end 
sliould  be  rounded  in  a  depth  of  not  less  than  8  fathoms,  and 
a  berth  taken  wherever  the  sea  appears  the  most  smooth,  in 
about  10  or  12  fathoms,  taking  care,  however,  to  leave  plenty 
of  room  for  dragging  or  weighing  with  the  land  breeze,  which 
sometimes  comes  off  suddenly  with  considerable  force. 

"Tides. — There  is  a  rise  of  tide  of  from  1  to  1^  feet  at  the 
island  of  Escudo  de  Veragua.  In  the  daytime,  at  the  anchor- 
age, the  current  generally  has  a  westerlj'  set,  which  ceases  at 
uight. 

"Bank  of  soundings. — The  regular  bank  wdiich  skirts  the 
main  forms,  to  the  eastward  of  Escudo  de  Veragua,  a  large 
tongue,  extending  from  the  island  in  an  east  and  northeast 
direction  about  8  miles  and  to  the  northward  5  miles,  with  a 
tolerably  regular  increase  in  tlie  depth;  but  to  the  northwest- 
ward the  soundings  are  irregular,  as  about  3  miles  distant 
they  change  rapidly  from  30  to  10  and  14  fathoms.  Tliey  are 
also  irregular  to  the  southward,  but  there  is  no  danger,  and 
a  vessel  may  work  to  the  westward  quickl}',  between  the  island 
and  theniain,  by  means  of  the  eddy,  which  generally  runs  in 
that  direction. 

"Cana  River. — The  Caiia  separates  the  territories  of 
Chiriqui  and  Veragua.  The  entrance  is  S.  60"  W.  (S.  54°  W. 
mag.),  11  miles  from  the  northwest  point  of  Escudo  de  Vera- 
gua, and  readily  distinguished  by  two  huts,  one  on  either  side; 
that  on  the  western  i3oint  is  more  like  a  house,  and,  being 
generally  whitewashed,  is  a  conspicuous  object.  About  5 
miles  from  the  mouth,  in  a  southerly  direction  and  near  the 
foot  of  the  Tiger  Sjpur,  there  is  a  small  village  inhabited  by 
Indians  who  are  employed  in  grazing  cattle,  collecting  sarsa- 
parilla,  and  washing  for  gold  dust,  which  is  occasionally 
brought  down  in  small  quantities.  Small  canoes  can  navi- 
gate the  stream  thus  far,  but  the  nortlieast  swell  rolls  in  so 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  47 

heavily  that  the  passage  of  the  bar  is  only  safe  in  very  favor- 
able Aveatlier. 

"The  Coast. — From  the  Cana  a  low  sand^'  shore  extends 
about  southeast  for  19  miles  to  Buppan  Bluff.  About  3 
miles  westward  of  the  bluff  is  the  entrance  of  Pedro  River, 
and  about  the  same  distance  farther  on  is  that  of  the  Chiri- 
qui.  Both  are  very  small,  and  can  only  be  entered  by  canoes 
after  heavj'  rains. 

"Eastward  of  the  bluff'  the  shore  forms  a  sandy  bay  2^ 
miles  long,  through  the  middle  of  which  a  small  stream  clears 
an  opening  for  its  exit  in  heavy  rains.  From  the  bay  to  the 
entrance  of  the  Passiowla  a  ridge  of  red  cliffs  extends  to  the 
eastward,  skirted  by  a  beach  and  crowned  by  a  clump  of 
remarkable  flat-topped  trees  about  200  feet  above  the  sea. 
From  tlie  Passiowla  to  Coaita  Point  the  usual  sandy  beach  is 
intersected  by  two  low  rocky  shelves.  About  midwaj'  a 
coral  ledge  extends  about  one-fourth  mile  and  is  steep-to.  In 
this  space  four  small  streams  descend  from  the  Catalina 
Hills,  the  easternmost  of  which  is  visited  by  sarsaparilla 
pickers  in  small  canoes.  The  Passiowla  is  also  navigable  for 
small  canoes  for  a  short  distance  after  the  heavy  i-ains,  but 
at  other  times  the  mouth  is  blocked  bj^  a  dry  sand  bar. 

"Buppan  Bluff. — The  west  end  of  the  above  beach  termi- 
nates at  the  base  of  a  large  bold  j^romontory,  formed  by  two 
bluff  headlands  close  together,  and  a  third,  about  1^  miles 
westward  of  them,  named  Buppan  Bluff.  All  three  rise  pre- 
cipitously from  the  beach  in  round  cones  to  an  elevation  of 
from  700  to  800  feet  only  one-fourth  mile  inland. 

"Landing. — From  Buppan  Bluff  a  small  dry  ledge  extends 
about  400  yards,  under  the  lee  of  which,  in  moderate  weather, 
there  is  a  landing  place. 

"Tiger  Head. — At  about  11  miles  westward  of  Buppan  Bluff 
a  large  spur  extends  in  a  northwest  direction,  which  gradu- 
ally descends  with  a  long  slope  into  the  plain ;  a  little  below 
the  summit,  3,882  feet  above  the  sea,  there  is  a  small  projec- 
tion called  the  Tiger  Head,  but  more  like  the  ear  of  that  ani- 
mal, which  is  most  remarkable  when  seen  from  the  northwest 
and  northeast  quarters,  and  being  generally  visible  when  the 
higher  summits  behind  are  clouded,  it  is  a  useful  landmark. 

"King  Buppans  Peak. — The  south  side  of  the  eastern- 
most hill  descends  with  a  slight  gradual  slope  about  2+  miles 
to  the  southeast,  when  it  rises  suddenlv  to  the  summit  of  a 


48  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

narrow  conical  bill  2,8-l:()  feet  liigh.  It  then  forms,  between 
the  summit  and  a  much  higher  ridge  behind,  a  deep,  hollow 
notch,  which  is  a  most  remarkable  feature,  although  backed 
by  the  loftiest  part  of  the  Cordillera,  which  reaches  an  eleva- 
tion of  7,140  feet  at  about  15  miles  from  the  coast. 

"The  name  'King  Buppans  Peak'  has  been  given  to  this 
hill  by  the  Mosquito  Indians,  who,  it  is  said,  penetrated  thus 
far  in  one  of  their  marauding  excursions,  accompanied  by 
their  king.  From  the  island  of  Escudo  de  Veragua,  distant 
22  miles  S.  15°  W.  (S.  9°  W.  mag.),  it  is  a  most  conspicuous 
object  among  the  neighboring  heights. 

"CoAiTA  Point,  which  lies  under  the  northeast  angle  of 
the  Catalina  Hills,  is  low  and  sandy,  and  the  most  southern 
point  on  this  side  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama. 

"No  ANCHORAGE. — From  this  point  to  the  Chagres,  a  dis- 
tance of  83  nules,  the  shore  runs  nearly  straight,  without  anj'- 
sheltered  anchorage  whatever;  and,  indeed,  without  safe 
landing  except  in  native  boats  under  favorable  circum- 
stances, at  spots  known  to  the  coasters  and  fishermen,  for 
heavy  surfs  break  continually  along  the  whole  shore.  Abreast 
Coaita  Point  the  edge  of  soundings  is  about  G  miles  distant, 
and  the  depths  will  be  found  regularly  decreasing  to  the 
shore,  which  is  generally  bold  and  clear. 

"Catalina  Hills. — The  deep  valley  through  which  the 
rivers  Candelaria  and  Calawawa  run  is  about  4  miles  wide, 
and  is  also  well  marked;  its  western  side  is  formed  by  the 
Catalina  Hills,  a  large  mass  of  irregular  rounded  heights, 
rising  abruptly  from  the  shore  to  an  elevation  of  l,7o8  feet, 
and  its  eastern  side  b}^  a  ridge,  with  a  gradual  rise  to  a  height 
of  2,600  feet  soutlieastward  5  miles  from  the  Calawawa. 

"  Calaw^awa  River. — The  distance  between  the  Calawawa 
and  Candelaria  is  only  If  miles;  and  between  there  is  a  small 
ridge  of  red  cliffs.  The  former  stream  discharges  through 
the  breach,  and  the  entrance  is  pointed  out  by  two  cocoanut 
trees  on  the  western  point  and  by  some  red  cliffs  topped  with 
trees  about  three-fourths  mile  to  the  westward. 

"The  Calawawa  is  navigable  for  canoes  about  20 miles,  and 
bej^ond  this  a  footpath  or  bridle  road  leads  over  the  moun- 
tains to  the  capital  of  the  province.  The  journey  may  be 
performed  in  about  thirtj^-six  hours,  and  the  mode  of  con- 
ve3'ance  is  on  the  shoulders  of  Indians,  who  accomplish  it 
with  great  ease  and  rapidity,  even  in  the  midst  of  incessant 
torrents  of  rain,  which  prevail  at  almost  all  seasons. 


¥»i   1 .  oui^ff  n  I 
1st  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 

NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  49 

Tlie  red  cliff  westward  of  the  Calawawa  is  skirted  by  a 
coral  ledge,  extending  off  about  one-fourth  mile.  From 
thence  the  beach  extends  westerly  for  2w  miles  to  Coaita  Point. 

"A  mile  westward  of  the  above-mentioned  cliff  the  sand 
projects  out  a  little  to  a  point,  from  which  a  ledge  extends  off 
one-fourth  mile,  and  shelters  a  landing  place  to  the  west- 
ward of  it,  near  a  hut  on  the  beach. 

"Candelaria  River. — On  each  point  of  the  entrance 
there  is  a  single  cocoanut  tree,  and  on  the  western  point  there 
are  also  two  or  three  huts;  it  is  also  further  marked  by  a 
house  standing  on  a  slight  elevation  just  above  the  mouth 
of  the  river. 

"The  coast. — Three-fourths  of  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of 
Candelaria  River  is  a  bold,  rocky  headland,  close  under  which 
lie  two  little  rockj"  islets  having  foul  ground  one-fourth  mile 
outside.  The  shore  then  extends  1^  miles  to  the  eastward, 
presenting  dark,  sandj'^  beaches,  separated  b}^  small  rocky 
shelves,  when  it  terminates  at  the  base  of  a  range,  of  most 
remarkable  cliffs,  which  rise  boldlj'  from  the  sea  to  the  height 
of  between  100  and  200  feet  and  extend  2^  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction.  These  cliffs  appear  to  be  comj)osed  of  red  indu- 
rated clay  impregnated  with  minute  metallic  grains,  which 
have  become  so  highly  polished  by  attrition  of  the  water 
unceasinglj"  trickling  over  them  from  the  highlands  in  the 
rear  that  when  the  sun  shines  on  them  from  a  low  altitude  a 
most  dazzling  appearance  is  produced.  Thej^  sometimes  look 
like  the  white  sails  of  a  vessel,  and  the  easternmost  has  been 
likened  to  the  stern  of  a  large  ship.  They  are  certainly  most 
striking  objects  and  valuable  guides  to  the  coasters. 

"From  these  cliffs  the  shore  trends  easterly  If  miles  to 
Wasora  River;  it  is  sandy  and  intersected  by  two  rocky 
shelves.  From  the  entrance  of  the  Wasora,  which  is  verj^ 
small,  the  coast  curves  slightly  to  the  northeastward  for 
about  2  miles  to  a  bluff  which  lies  a  short  distance  westward 
of  tlie  Cocooyah  River.  The  shore  is  a  sandy  beach,  divided 
in  the  middle  by  a  small  rocky  point. 

"Zapatero  Point  is  low  and  sandj-  and  breakers  extend 
from  it  about  one-half  mile.  At  1^  miles  beyond  the  point 
is  a  very  remarkable  red  cliff  100  feet  high.  At  1^  miles  to  the 
eastward  of  the  cliff  the  Gold  River  empties,  and  from  here 
the  shore  trends  about  east-northeast  for  4  miles  to  the  west 
entrance  of  St.  Christopher  Bay,  and  is  sandy  and  skirted  by 
12312—03 4 


50  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

a  ledge,  which  breaks  nearly  one-half  mile  off.  About  mid- 
wa}^  the  beach  projects  a  little,  and  near  this  spot  there  is  a 
solitary  hut.  About  one-half  mile  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Gold  River  the  beach  is  broken  by  a  small  low  rock}^  i)oint. 

"  Gold  or  Conception  River. — There  is  said  to  be  a  gold 
mine  near  the  source  of  this  river,  from  which  it  is  named. 
The  entrance  maybe  distinguished  by  a  remarkable  umbrella- 
shaped  tree  standing  on  rising  ground  on  the  eastern  bank, 
to  the  eastward  of  which,  on  a  small  cleared  spot,  there  is  a 
house,  and  below  it  on  the  beach  are  two  cocoanut  trees  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Tlie  opening  of  the  valley  is  also  very 
conspicuous. 

"Castle  Choco  is  a  remarkable  mountain,  rising  almost 
perpendicularly  on  its  northern  face  from  the  plain  to  an  ele- 
vation of  6,342  feet;  the  flattened  summit  has  the  exact  ap- 
pearance of  a  huge  square  castle,  with  a  small  tower  at  one 
angle.  It  is,  however,  so  constantly  enveloped  in  clouds  as 
to  be  seldom  visible,  except  at  the  break  of  day,  just  before 
sunset,  or  on  a  sudden  cessation  of  lieavj^  rains,  Avhen  the 
atmosj)here  will  almost  instantly  becoine  most  remarkably 
bright  and  clear;  and  these  remarks  are  aiiplicable  to  all  the 
highlands  on  this  coast. 

"When  visible  the  castle  is,  of  course,  an  excellent  guide 
for  the  mouths  of  the  small  streams  to  the  westward  of  the 
Coclet;  it  is  also  to  be  seen,  under  favorable  circumstances, 
from  the  castle  of  San  Lorenzo,  at  Chagres,  west,  distant  07 
miles. 

"From  the  base  of  Castle  Choco  irregular  masses  of  wooded 
hills  begin  to  rise,  and,  taking  a  northwest  direction,  reach 
.an  elevation  of  3,100  feet  only  5  miles  south  of  the  Cocooyah. 
Thence  the  base  of  the  Cordillera  almost  bounds  the  shore,  as 
far  as  its  northwestern  extremity,  neai-  the  meridian  of  the 
Chiriqui  River,  35  miles  to  the  westward  of  Zapatero  Point. 

"Cordillera  of  Yeragua. — Between  the  Cocooyah  and 
Belen  rivers  the  interior  is  comparatively  low.  forming  a  deep 
valle}'  for  some  distance  to  the  southeastward,  and  tlie  land 
declines  in  height  toward  the  coast,  where  it  is  elevated  about 
150  feet;  but  only  2  miles  to  the  southward  of  the  Cocooyah 
the  northeastern  extremity  of  the  base  of  the  Great  Cordillera 
of  Yeragua  rises  abruptlj'^  1,044  feet.  The  highest  ridge  in 
this  immense  mass  of  mountains  traverses  the  Isthmus  from 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  51 

east  to  west,  for  about  70  miles,  at  the  distance  of  about  15 
miles  from  the  coast. 

"  The  Saddle  de  Veragua,  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  ridge, 
rises  from  the  low  plain  of  Panama,  south,  about  -^0  miles 
from  the  entrance  of  the  Coclet  River,  and,  when  seen  from 
the  northwest,  foi'ms  a  remarkable  double  peak  or  saddle 
8,32()  feet  high. 

"St.  Christopher  Bay. — Tothe  westward  of  Palisado  Point 
the  shore  forms  a  sandy  bay  2^  miles  wide  and  a  mile  deep, 
into  which  Old  Yeragua  River  empties. 

"The  river  has  a  hut  on  the  east  point  of  its  entrance,  and 
on  the  rising  ground  on  the  west  side,  in  the  center  of  a 
cleared  space,  having  the  appearance  of  a  green  plain,  there 
is  a  conspicuous  white  house. 

"The  coast. — From  Palisado  Point,  off  which  breakers  ex- 
tend one-half  mile,  the  shore  extends  easterly  for  1^  miles  in  a 
straight  sandy  beach,  then  is  rocky  for  about  one-half  mile 
to  the  Belen  River,  the  opening  to  which  is  so  small  that  it  is 
only  recognized  by  the  receding  of  the  low  hills  which  form 
its  valley.  About  4  miles  farther  on  is  the  entrance  to  the 
Palmillo,  which  is  pointed  out  by  two  huts  on  the  eastern  side, 
but  is  so  hidden  by  dense  foliage  that  it  is  extremely  difficult 
to  find.  From  this  river  to  Rincon  Point  the  shore  trends 
about  northeast  for  G  miles  and  is  a  sandy  beach,  intersected 
by  low  rocky  shelves;  the  land  near  the  shore  gradually 
declines  in  height. 

"  RiNCOX  Point  is  a  bold,  scarped,  rocky  headland,  reaching 
the  height  of  550  feet  three-fourths  of  a  mile  inland.  At  3 
miles  south  of  it  the  elevation  is  800  feet.  Abreast  this  head- 
land ihe  edge  of  soundings  is  onh^  2^  miles  distant,  and  the 
shore  is  so  bold  that  there  are  24  fathoms  one-half  mile  ofl:". 

"Coclet  River  and  Mountain. — The  Coclet  River  is 
pointed  out  by  two  huts  on  the  west  point  of  entrance  and  a 
house  in  the  middle  of  a  small  cultivated  spot  on  the  east  side. 
Behind  it  rises  the  Sierra  de  Coclet,  which,  at  4  miles  to  the 
southward  of  the  river  entrance,  reaches  an  elevation  of  1,432 
feet.  This  large  mass  of  irregular  hills  is  connected  with  the 
Sierra  de  Miguel  de  la  Borda  by  a  wooded  ridge  from  800  to 
900  feet  high.  A  little  to  the  eastward  of  the  Coclet  the  base 
of  the  sierra  rests  on  the  shore,  and  continues  to  bound  it 
until  interrupted  by  the  valley  of  the  Plantain  River. 

"From  the  Coclet  the  coast  trends  about  east-northeast  11 


52  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

miles  to  the  entrance  of  the  Mangalee,  and  is  bounded  by  a 
sandy  beach,  intersected  occasionally  by  small  patches  of  low- 
rocks.  About  5  miles  from  the  Mangalee  a  slight  bay  is 
formed  for  about  2  miles,  into  which  the  Plantain  River  flows; 
the  entrance  is  marked  by  a  single  hut  on  either  side  and  the 
deep  valley  through  which  it  runs. 

' '  Mangalee  River. — From  the  entrance  of  Mangalee  River, 
which  is  pointed  out  by  two  or  three  huts  on  the  w^est  side 
and  a  little  low  rocky  point  on  the  east  side,  to  the  village  of 
Gicacal,  the  sandy  shore,  backed  by  low  rocks,  extends  for  2^ 
miles. 

"The  whole  line  of  shore  between  these  points  is  fringed 
with  coral,  to  a  distance  of  from  200  yards  to  one-half  mile, 
upon  which  the  sea  breaks,  rendering  landing  extremely  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous,  except  under  most  favorable  circum- 
stances. 

"All  the  streams  from  the  Mangalee  to  the  Indios  are  navi- 
gated by  small  canoes,  conveying  the  sarsaparilla  collected  on 
their  banks  to  the  small  trading  vessels  which  occasionally 
call  for  it. 

"The  Mangalee  defines  the  northwestern  boundary  be- 
tween the  provinces  of  Veragua  and  Panama. 

"Anchorage. — There  is  temporary  anchorage  all  along  the 
coast  just  described,  in  6  to  8  fathoms,  sand  and  mud,  about 
2  miles  from  the  shore. 

"Pilon  de  Miguel  de  la  Borda. — This  remarkable  iso- 
lated mountain,  1,669  feet  high,  is  situated  southwestward  28 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Chagres  and  about  14  miles 
inland.  It  is  not,  however,  often  visible,  being  generally  con- 
cealed by  the  dense  vapors  which  hang  over  the  extensive 
low,  flat  surrounding  plain ;  still  it  may  be  occasionally  seen 
from  the  Chagres  anchorage. 

"Aspect. — Immediately  behind  the  entrance  of  the  Man- 
galee the  base  of  Sierra  de  Miguel  de  la  Borda  attains,  almost 
abruptly,  the  height  of  592  feet,  whence  it  continues  to  rise 
in  irregular  densely  wooded  ridges  to  the  summit,  which  is 
1,552  feet  above  the  sea  and  S.  18°  E.  (S.  23°  E.  mag.)  5  miles 
from  the  entrance  of  the  river.  The  Pilon  de  Miguel  de  la 
Borda  lies  southward  and  eastward  of  Giscal  village,  but  is 
not  visible  to  the  westward  of  it.  Abreast  the  middle  of  the 
red  cliffs,  eastward  of  Gicacal,  there  is  a  conspicuous  round 
hill  356  feet  above  the  sea.     Near  the  entrance  of  the  Indios 


N0TE8    ON    PANAMA,  53 

the  land  is  about  150  feet  above  the  sea,  and  to  the  westward 
it  gradually  rises. 

"The  coast  from  the  Mangalee  River  extends  about  east- 
northeast  for  14  miles  to  the  Indios  River.  About  2^  miles 
to  the  eastward  of  the  Mangalee  River  is  the  village  of  Gica- 
cal,  Avhich  consists  of  a  few  straggling  huts  on  the  left  bank 
of  a  small  stream.  Half  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  the  village 
is  a  remarkable  ridge  of  low  red  indurated  mud  cliffs,  which 
extend  for  about  3  miles;  thence  to  the  Indios  cliffs  the  shore 
for  2  miles  is  a  low  rocky  shelf,  upon  which  will  be  seen  a  few 
huts,  and  then  a  sandy  beach.  About  one-half  of  a  mile  to  the 
westward  of  the  river  is  a  remarkable  cavern  in  the  cliff,  and 
at  the  same  distance  to  the  eastward  is  the  village  of  Salud. 
From  the  river  to  Lagarto  village  the  shore  is  low,  sandj',  and 
thickly  wooded  behind.  At  -i  miles  northeastward  of  the  vil- 
lage is  Diego  Point.  From  here  the  land  gradually  ascends  to 
the  base  of  the  Chagres  table-land.  Diego  Point  is  formed 
by  a  low  rocky  shore,  and  about  a  mile  to  the  westward  of  its 
extremit}'  is  a  remarkable  white  cliff,  with  a  small  sandy 
beach  on  either  side,  above  the  western  end  of  which  there  is 
a  cleared  space  and  grazing  farm.  Morrito  Point  is  formed 
by  a  low  red  cliff,  upon  which  are  a  few  huts,  and  foul  ground 
extends  from  it  about  -iOO  yards. 

"  From  El  Morillo,  a  little  rock  about  one-half  of  a  mile  east- 
ward of  Morrito  Point,  the  shore  is  rocky  and  foul  to  Arenas 
Point,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Chagres  River,  with  Boca  de  la 
Furnia  Point  in  between. 

"Chagres  River. — The  flat  rocky  promontory  which 
bounds  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Chagres  River 
is  about  JrOO  yards  in  length  east  and  west  and  about  175 
yards  broad.  On  the  north,  west,  and  south  sides  it  rises 
almost  perpendicularly  from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  82  feet 
at  the  outer  end  and  to  that  of  100  feet  at  the  inner  part. 
The  western  part  is  occupied  by  the  fortifications  of  San 
Lorenzo,  now  in  ruins,  immediatelj'  in  the  rear  of  which  there 
is  a  level  plateau  300  feet  in  length,  terminating  at  a  little 
mound  commanding  the  valleys  on  all  sides  and  the  only  road 
to  the  castle.  The  works  are  everywhere  in  a  state  of  decay 
and  the  buildings  almost  in  ruins. 

"The  south  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  river  is  formed  by 
a  dark  sandy  beach,  and  from  Arenas  Point  to  the  base  of  the 
promontory  opposite  the  width  is  225  yards.     From  the  inner 


54  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

end  of  the  promontory  tlie  shore  turns  suddenly  to  tlie  south- 
ward, and  abreast  Arenas  Point  the  river  is  only  100  yards 
wide. 

"The  bar  has  11  feet  of  water  in  the  dry  season,  but  the 
depth  changes  according  to  the  state  of  the  river.  The  mouth 
of  the  river,  outside  the  bar,  is  obstructed  by  the  Laja  Reef,  a 
rocky  ledge  about  50  yards  in  diameter,  which  breaks  in 
heavy  weather  and  is  nearly  even  with  the  surface  of  the 
sea.  The  best  approach  is  northward  of  Laja  Reef  in  depths 
of  14  feet  over  a  breadth  of  about  70  yards.  Within  the  bar 
the  Avater  deepens  to  17  to  20  feet  abreast  the  town,  which  is 
200  yards  above  the  bar.  Here  is  the  anchorage  for  vessels 
that  can  enter.  Small  craft  also  lie  alongside  the  bank  of  the 
river  southward  of  the  town,  as  the  shore  at  the  town  is  a 
rocky  ledge. 

"Reefs  nearlj' awash,  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  extent,  which 
also  break  during  strong  winds,  lie  from  one-third  to  one-half 
of  a  mile  westward  of  Arenas  Point,  with  shallow  water  ex- 
tending toward  the  Laja.  The  passage  between,  though  with 
14  feet  of  water,  is  narrow  and  not  recommended. 

"Chagres. — The  town  of  Chagres  is  on  the  eastern  shore, 
between  the  Castle  and  Caiio  Rivulet,  which  enters  the  river 
abreast  Arenas  Point.  The  shore  in  front  is  skirted  by  a  flat 
rocky  ledge,  so  that  small  craft  find  it  more  convenient  to  lie 
alongside  the  bank  just  above  the  Cano.  Since  the  comple- 
tion of  the  Panama  Railroad  Chagres  has  become  simply  a 
fishing  hamlet  and  retains  no  evidence  whatever  of  its  former 
size  and  importance.  A  few  thatched  huts  and  a  population  of 
200  souls  comprise  the  whole. 

"Anchorage. — The  anchorage  off  Chagres  is  an  open  road- 
stead, exposed  from  northeast,  round  northerly  to  southwest. 
In  the  latter  direction,  however,  it  is  somewhat  protected  by 
the  distant  land  and  bank  of  soundings;  but  in  strong  winds 
from  between  west  and  northeast  remaining  here  is  attended 
with  risk,  and  it  will  be  better  when  the  weather  threatens 
from  these  quarters  to  put  to  sea  or  proceed  to  either  Colon 
or  Porto  Bello.  A  good  berth  will  be  found  with  the  castle  of 
San  Lorenzo  bearing  S.  5G°  E.  (S.  61°  E.  mag.),  and  the  rock 
of  Mogote  de  Brujas  just  open  of  the  bluff  N.  45°  E.  (N.  40°  E. 
mag.)  in  10  fathoms,  mud,  about  1^  miles  from  the  shore,  but 
a  position  farther  in  may  be  taken  if  necessary. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  55 

"Current. — The  eurrent  usually  sets  northeastward  with 
a  velocity  of  about  1  knot  an  hour. 

"General  Directions  —  Approaching  Colon  and 
Chagres. — Approaching  from  the  northeast  in  the  season  of 
the  breezes,  from  November  to  May,  the  first  land  seen  will 
be  most  probably  the  loft}^  flat  mountain  ridge  of  Lloroua, 
overlooking  the  harbor  of  Portobelo  from  the  southward,  at 
the  height  of  3,000  feet.  The  shore  is  very  low  to  the  Avest- 
ward  of  Portobelo  until  it  reaches  the  little  flat  peninsula  of 
Chagres,  and  it  is  of  the  same  character  to  the  westward  of 
that  river  for  a  distance  of  about  25  miles;  therefore  the 
locality  is  well  marked  bj'  the  peninsula  and  easily  made  out. 
The  interior  is  so  generally  shrouded  by  the  rains  and  deadly 
vapors  arising  from  the  swamps  that  the  inland  chain  of  the 
Calderos  Altos  is  sehlom  visible.  The  Sierra  de  Lloroua  is 
also  frequently  obscured,  but  the  irregular  hills  which  inclose 
Portobelo  are  generally  unclouded,  and,  being  from  GOO  to 
1,300  feet  high,  are  sufficiently  remarkable  to  be  distin- 
guished from  the  much  lower  table-land  of  the  Chagres 
Peninsula. 

"As  the  land  back  of  Manzauillo  is  high  and  can  be  seen 
from  40  to  60  miles  off,  according  to  the  state  of  the  atmos- 
phere, it  forms  a  splendid  landmark,  and  no  allowance  for 
the  easterly  set  is  made  by  most  of  the  captains  of  mail 
steamers;  as,  should  the  current  happen  to  be  slight  or  no  cur- 
rent at  all  be  encountered,  as  sometimes  happens,  and  allow- 
ance were  made  for  the  easterl}^  current,  a  vessel  would  make 
the  low  land  to  the  westward  of  Colon,  where  it  is  difficult  to 
recognize.  By  making  no  allowance,  a  vessel  is  sure  to  make 
the  high  land  of  Manzauillo,  or  that  between  Manzauillo  and 
Colon. 

"The  islands  off  Manzauillo  Point  are  nearly  all  covered 
with  trees  and  can  not  be  easily  distinguished  until  after  a 
vessel  is  within  a  few  miles  of  the  coast;  but  the  large  bare 
rock,  Farallon  Sucio,  the  largest  islet  of  the  group  of  this 
name,  is  a  splendid  landmark  from  all  directions  and  can 
readilj^  be  distinguished,  since  it  is  comparatively  bare  of 
vegetation.  It  is  not  unlike  in  appearance  to  Green  Island, 
off  Portobelo;  but  the  latter,  l^eing  covered  with  trees,  can 
not  be  distinguished  from  the  mainland  at  a  distance,  and, 
besides,  it  is  much  smaller  and  not  so  far  offshore  as  Farallon 
Sucio. 


56  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"Captain  Lima,  of  the  Pacific  Mail  steamship  Netvjwii, 
states  that  in  90  voyages  from  New  York  to  Colon  he  has 
always  made  Sucio,  off  Manzanillo  Point,  bearing  S.  16°  W. 
(S.  11°  W.  mag.)  to  S.  19°  W.  (S.  14°  W.  mag.),  even  in 
the  rainy  season,  when  no  observation  could  be  obtained. 
His  invariable  rule  is  to  change  his  course,  so  as  to  allow 
for  the  easterly  set  near  this  coast,  as  soon  as  he  sights 
logs,  trees,  and  driftwood.  At  his  speed  of  12  knots  he 
allows  one-half  to  three-fourths  of  a  point,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  driftwood  encountered.  If  the  quantity  of  drift- 
wood is  very  great-  and  the  discoloration  of  the  water  very 
marked,  he  sometimes  allows  as  much  as  1^  points.  If  he 
encounters  no  drift  he  makes  no  allowance  and  assumes  that 
there  is  no  current. 

"Off  Manzanillo  Point  numerous  tide  rips  have  been 
observed  and  the  current  found  to  be  1^  knots  per  hour  set- 
ting eastward.  A  current  close  in  to  the  coast,  as  strong  as 
2^  knots  per  hour,  has  often  been  found. 

"In  the  other  part  of  the  year,  when  calms  and  variable 
winds  prevail  and  the  easterlj^  current  is  most  j)owerful,  it 
will  be  better  to  keep  an  offing  from  30  to  40  miles  and  to 
make  the  coast  even  to  the  westward  of  Chagres.  By  doing 
this  a  vessel  will  not  only  avoid  the  strength  of  the  current, 
but  in  a  great  measure  escape  the  heavy  rains  and  violent 
squalls  from  the  shore. 

"In  this  case  the  locality  of  the  river  is  pointed  out  by  a 
remarkable  piece  of  fiat  wooded  tableland,  about  3  miles  in 
diameter,  which  lies  not  far  inland  on  tlie  west  bank  of  the 
river.  Its  north  side  rises  rather  abruptly  to  a  height  of  800 
feet,  and  the  elevation  of  its  summit  does  not  alter  more  than 
about  30  feet  in  its  whole  extent.  Tliere  is  nothing  like  it  in 
the  neighborhood.  The  land  behind  Chagres  being  higher 
than  at  the  entrance,  the  castle  is  not  seen  from  the  west- 
ward until  within  a  short  distance. 

"In  leaving  Chagres  or  Colon  and  bound  to  windward  it 
will  be,  of  course,  advantageous  to  work  or  run  alongshore  in 
the  influence  of  the  great  eddy  stream,  which  generally 
reaches  as  far  up  as  Cartagena.  In  the  season  of  the  vari- 
ables and  hazy  weather,  however,  great  care  is  requisite,  par- 
ticularly at  niglit,  for  the  stream  runs  close  to  the  islets  of 
Portobelo,  and  both  liand  and  deep-sea  leads  should  be  well 
attended.     It  is  also  necessary  to  warn  the  navigator  to  be 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  57 

well  prepared  to  meet  the  violent  gusts  from  the  high  lands 
at  this  iDeriod  and  to  anchor  should  it  fall  calm. 

"Coast. — From  the  bluff  at  the  entrance  of  the  Chagres 
River  to  Brujas  Point  the  shore  extends  nearly  straight 
north-northeast  3  miles,  and  is  rocky  and  steep-to.  About 
midway,  however,  there  is  a  small  rocky  cove,  into  which  a 
rivulet  falls  over  the  cliff  from  a  height  of  about  30  feet. 
The  water  is  excellent,  but  the  heavy  surf  prevents  landing 
anywhere  near  it. 

"  On  the  north  side  of  the  bluff  of  Chagres  there  is  also  a 
small  sandy  cove  named  'Laja,'  about  200  yards  wide  and 
having  a  depth  of  15  feet  close  to  the  beach,  into  which  a 
little  stream  flows  at  the  southeast  corner,  hj  the  side  of  the 
precipice.  The  north  side  of  this  cove  is  bounded  by  a  bold 
irregular  bluff  headland,  rising  to  the  height  of  120  feet,  and, 
being  higher  than  the  bluff",  hides  the  castle  of  San  Lorenzo 
from  the  northward  until  the  latter  is  brought  to  bear  S.  17° 
E.  (S.  22°  E.  mag.). 

"  Brujas  Point  is  a  bold,  rock}',  wooded  headland,  from 
whence  rises  the  highest  part  of  the  peninsula.  At  the  foot  of 
the  cliff,  and  onl}'  a  few  yards  distant,  is  a  small,  isolated 
rock,  with  perpendicular  sides,  croAvued  with  bushes,  called 
the  Mogote  de  Brujas,  which,  when  seen  open  of  the  bluff,  is 
remarkable.  The  rock  is  connected  to  the  bluff  by  a  flat 
ledge,  dry  at  low  water,  extending  outside  it  about  200  yards; 
it  is  steep-to.     There  are  6  fathoms  400  yards  from  the  rock. 

"From  Brujas  Point  to  Toro  Point,  the  west  entrance  point 
of  Limon  Bay,  the  coast  trends  about  east-northeast  2  miles. 
The  shore  in  this  space  forms  a  low  shelf  of  rock,  intersected 
near  the  middle  by  a  small  sandy  bay,  and  is  skirted  at  a 
short  distance  bj''  a  ledge  nearly  dry  at  low  water. 

"Toro  Point,  the  highest  point  of  the  peninsula  between 
Chagres  Bay  and  Colon  Bay,  is  about  2^  miles  broad  and  400 
feet  high.  The  summit  is  thickly  covered  with  wood,  and  is 
consequently  totally  different  in  appearance  from  the  low 
mangrove  coast  to  the  eastward,  and  this  serves  to  point  out  the 
locality  from  a  wide  offing.  From  Toro  Point  a  shallow  coral 
ledge  projects  north-northeastward  three-fourths  mile,  and  is 
generally  marked  by  heavy  breakers.  It  should  be  given  a 
wide  berth.  The  ledge  also  extends  one-half  mile  east-north- 
eastward from  the  point. 

"Light— Toro  Point  Light.— On  Toro  Point,  from  an  iron 


58  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

tower  painted  red  and  white,  on  stone  base,  is  shown  a  white 
light,  which  shows  a  flash  of  five  seconds  every  thirty  seconds. 
The  light  is  elevated  108  feet  and  is  visible  Ki  miles.  The 
glare  of  the  light  has  been  seen  21  miles.  When  close  to  the 
light,  the  eclipses  are  not  total. 

"Colon,  Limon  or  Navy  Bay. — Toro  Point  is  2|  miles 
N.  79°  W.  (N.  84°  W.  mag.)  of  the  Colon  light-honse,  and 
between  them  is  the  entrance  of  Colon  Bay.  This  bay  is  3^ 
miles  deep  from  north  to  south  and  about  3  miles  wide  at  the 
head.  The  depths  at  the  entrance  are  5|  and  6^  fathoms, 
whence  they  decrease  to  4^  fathoms  in  the  middle  and  3 
fathoms  at  a  mile  from  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  within  this 
distance  they  shoal  gradually  to  the  beach  to  the  southward. 
It  would  appear  that  the  depths  in  this  bay  are  continually 
decreasing. 

"There  are  from  26  to  28  feet  alongside  of  the  wharves. 

"In  the  season  of  the  north  winds,  the  bay  being  completely 
exposed  in  this  direction,  a  heavy  swell  rolls  in. 

"Limon  Point,  on  the  west  side  of  the  inner  part  of  the 
bay,  stretches  a  little  to  the  eastward,  and  affords  shelter 
under  its  south  side  in  Limon  Harbor  for  small  vessels  in  2^ 
fathoms  of  water. 

"Manzanillo  Island,  which  is  about  a  mile  long  north 
and  south  and  three-fourths  mile  broad,  is  very  low,  and 
for  the  most  part  covered  by  mangrove  brushes.  It  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  main  by  the  Boca  Chica,  a  narrow  boat  chan- 
nel leading  into  the  harbor.  Its  eastern  portion  is  known 
as  the  Boca  Grande.  A  coral  reef  skirts  the  north  and  north- 
west ends  of  the  island  to  the  distance  of  200  yards.  Reefs 
extend  also  off  the  entrance  points  to  the  Boca  Chica,  from  200 
to  400  yards.  A  bridge  of  the  Panama  Railroad  Company 
connects  the  island  to  the  main. 

"Light — Colon  Light. — On  ]VIanzanillo  Point,  the  north- 
western extremity  of  Manzanillo  Island,  a  fixed  white  light 
isexhibited  on  the  top  of  an  open  framework  at  an  elevation 
of  60  feet,  and  should  be  visible  in  favorable  weather  at  a 
distance  of  10  miles.  It  is  often  difficult  to  distinguish  this 
light  from  the  ordinary  white  light  carried  .bj'  steamers. 

"Buoys. — A  buoy  has  recently  been  moored  by  the  Panama 
Railroad  Company  in  of  fathoms.  Colon  light-house  bearing 
N.  60°  W.  (N.  65°  W.  mag.),  distant  one-sixth  mile,  and 
Toro  light-house  bearing  N.  88°  W.  (S.  87°  W.  mag.),  distant 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  59 

2^  miles.  Vessels  should  not  pass  between  this  buoy  and  the 
reef.  Several  buoys  are  also  placed  off  the  wharves  for  the 
convenience  of  wharfing  or  mooring.  These,  together  with  the 
Panama  Canal  buoys,  are  the  only  buoj^s  in  the  harbor. 

"Directions. — There  are  no  known  dangers  in  the  approach 
to  Colon  Bay  other  than  the  reef  extending  from  Toro  Point. 
The  chart  shows  a  4|-fathom  spot,  position  doubtful,  about 
three-fourths  mile  N.  28°  E.  (N.  23°  E.  mag.)  of  Manzanillo 
Point  light. 

"Anchorage. — The  best  anchorage  in  ordinary  weather  is 
abreast  the  Pacific  Mail  Company's  dock,  about  GOO  yards  off, 
but  in  bad  weather  it  is  better  to  anchor  on  the  opposite 
side  to  avoid  the  heavy  sea  that  rolls  in  around  Toro  Point. 
The  holding  ground  is  good,  but  there  are  many  anchors  and 
cables  strewn  about  the  bottom. 

"Tides. — There  is  a  rise  of  tide  about  18  inches  to  2  feet  in 
Litaou  Bay,  according  to  the  winds,  but  the  time  is  uncertain. 

"Northers. — These  winds  occur  in  November,  December, 
and  January.  They  are  seldom  violent,  but  a  heavy  sea 
rolls  in. 

"At  Colon  a  norther  is  not  necessarily  a  gale  of  wind;  in 
fact,  the  wind  frequently  does  not  blow  home,  and  is  at  times 
quite  light,  but  very  heavy  ground  swell  heaves  into  the 
bay.  When  the  wind  does  blow  home,  as  happened  during 
the  norther  of  December  19-21,  1890,  no  vessel  can  remain  at 
anchor  with  safet3^  There  is  no  way  of  predicting  these  dan- 
gerous northers.  The  barometer  gives  no  indication.  The 
'  fitful  showers  of  rain  in  large  drops '  may  or  may  not  be  an 
indication.  The  gradually  increasing  swell,  supposed  to  be  a 
forerunner  of  a  norther,  frequently  proves  to  mean  nothing. 

"The  norther  of  December  19-21,  1890,  was  preceded  on 
the  18th  by  a  heavy  swell  and  threatening  weather,  but  to- 
ward evening  the  swell  decreased,  the  weather  cleared,  and 
it  looked  like  a  fine  night.  Later  in  the  night  the  swell  com- 
menced to  heave  in  with  greater  force,  so  that  steamers  were 
compelled  to  leave  their  wharves.  It  was  not  till  after  day- 
light on  the  19th  that  the  full  force  of  the  norther  began  to 
be  felt,  and  in  a  very  short  time  it  became  so  rough  that  all 
steamers  put  to  sea.  The  Pacific  Mail  steamer  Newpori  cut 
her  lines  and  steamed  across  the  bay  to  the  anchorage  under 
the  lee  of  Toro  Point,  but  was  soon  compelled  to  abandon 
this  anchorage  and  \)\\\j  to  sea.     One  steamer,  lying  in  the 


60  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

harbor  with  two  anchors  down,  dragged  nearly  1  mile  before 
she  could  get  sufficient  steam  to  be  able  to  slip  and  go  to  sea. 

"During  the  season  of  northers  steamers  should  keep  steam 
up  constantl}^  and  be  ready  to  move  at  a  moment's  notice. 
This  is  the  custom  of  steamers  of  all  nations  w^hich  touch  at 
this  port,  regardless  of  the  time  they  may  remain.  However 
long  the  weather  may  have  been  threatening,  when  the  norther 
does  break  it  conies  suddenly  and  leaves  no  time  for  prepa- 
rations. If  compelled  to  get  under  way  the  surest  way  is  to 
slip  the  chain  and  steam  out  to  sea.  It  would  be  almost  im- 
possible to  get  up  anchor  without  damage  to  the  ship  at  such 
times,  and  there  is  always  a  risk  of  hooking  one  of  the  old 
anchors  and  chains  with  which  the  bottom  of  tlie  harbor  is 
strewed. 

"Colon  (Aspinwall),  on  the  west  side  of  Manzanillo 
Island,  is  connected  with  Panama,  47^  miles  distant,  bj^  rail. 
It  is  almost  entirely  a  port  for  a  few  lines  of  regular  steamers 
running  on  through  arrangements  with  the  Panama  Railroad 
Company,  carrjdng  cargoes  destined  principally  for  transit 
to  and  from  the  Pacific.  The  town  stands  on  a  low  island 
which  was  originally  covered  with  morass  and  jungle;  there 
is  no  drainage  possible  of  any  value,  and  the  malarial  ex- 
halations of  the  surrounding  swamps,  coupled  with  the 
emanations  of  the  town,  i^roduce  a  condition  of  things  most 
undesirable.  There  was  a  floating  population  of  about  3,000 
in  1901,  composed  principally  of  employees  of  the  Panama 
Railroad  Company,  Avhose  headquarters  are  at  Colon.  On 
account  of  better  sanitary  conditions  the  health  of  Colon  is 
said  to  be  somewhat  improved  of  late. 

"The  United  States  is  represented  by  a  consul  and  vice- 
consul.     The  port  is  free. 

"  Colon  APPROACH — Shoal  northward  of  ManZx\nillo 
Point.— Lieut.  Commander  W.  R.  Rush,  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Mari- 
etta, reports  under  date  of  March  11,  1902,  having  located  a 
dangerous  shoal  about  a  mile  northward  from  Manzanillo 
Point,  east  side  of  entrance  to  Colon  Harbor. 

"The  ilia/* ie^te  anchored  on  the  shoal  in  -ty  fathoms  and 
used  two  boats  in  sounding  out  the  hummock  in  radial  lines 
from  the  bow  of  the  ship,  crossing  with  parallels. 

"The  least  water  found  was  23  feet,  in  one  spot.  From 
this  depth  of  23  feet  the  water  rapidly  deepened  on  all  sides 
to  7  fathoms. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  .  61 

"The  23-foot  spot  is  on  the  following  bearings:  Manzanillo 
Point  S.  10°  E.  true  (S.  by  E.  i  E.  mag.)  Toro  Point  light- 
house S.  77°  W.  true  (WSW.  i  W.  mag.).  (Variation 4°  E.  in 
1902.) 

"Lieut.  Commander  W.  V.  Bronaugh,  of  the  U.  S.  F.  S. 
Kearsarge,  reports  under  date  of  March  11,  1902,  that  the 
4f -fathom  shoal  shown  on  Hydrographic  Office  chart  No. 
1008,  about  two-thirds  of  a  mile  N.  15°  E.  true  (N.  by  E.  mag.) 
from  Manzanillo  Point  light-house  and  marked  'P.  D.,'  does 
not  exist  in  its  assigned  position.  Soundings  taken  March  11 
over  the  assigned  position  of  the  shoal  showed  a  least  depth 
of  35  feet  in  the  vicinity. 

"Colombia — Colon — Buoy  off  Manzanillo  Point. — 
Lieut.  Walter  McLean,  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Macldas,  reports  under 
date  of  May  15,  1902,  that  there  is  but  one  buoy  off  Manza- 
nillo Point,  entrance  to  Colon  Harbor.  This  buoj^  is  a  large 
can  buoy  with  spindle  and  vane  painted  a  drab  color.  It  is 
on  the  following  bearings:  Toro  Point  light-house  N.  78°  W. 
true  (W.  f  N.  mag.).  Statue  on  Christobal  Colon  Point  S. 
15°  30'  E.  true  (S.  by  E.  %  E.  mag.).  Manzanillo  Point  light- 
house N.  85°  E.  true  (E.  |  N.  mag.). 

"Colon  —  Panama  Canal  entrance  —  Soundings  — 
Buoy. — Lieut.  Commander  A.  E.  Culver,  U.  S.  ISTavy,  com- 
manding the  L^.  S.  S.  Bancroft,  reports  under  date  of  March  8, 
1903,  that  he  took  soundings  at  the  entrance  to  the  Panama 
Canal  to  ascertain  if  it  were  practicable  to  take  the  Bancroft 
into  the  entrance  of  the  canal  during  the  season  of  northers. 
He  found  the  soundings  just  about  1  fathom  less  than  cor- 
responding soundings  shown  on  Hydrographic  Office  chart 
No.  1008. 

"  Of  the  buoys  shown  on  this  chart  marking  the  entrance  to 
the  canal  only  one  now  remains,  viz,  the  first  black  buoy 
bearing  S.  57°  E.  true  (SE.  by  E.  ^  E.  mag.)  from  the  statue  on 
De  Lesseps  Point. 

"Supplies. — Fresh  meats,  vegetables,  and  fruit  are  scarce 
and  of  poor  quality.  Preserved  provisions  can  be  had  in  lim- 
ited quantities. 

"Water  can  be  obtained  from  the  Panama  Railroad  Com- 
pany at  1^  cents  gold  per  gallon,  delivered  in  tanks  on  the 
wharf;  it  is  taken  from  the  river  and  must  be  thoroughly  fil- 
tered before  being  used. 

"Coal. — American  and  English  coal  can  be  had  from  the 


62  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

railroad  compan}'  alongside  the  wharf.  The  price  is  high. 
Coal  may  also  sometimes  be  obtained  from  a  vessel  in  the 
harbor  at  a  much  less  cost. 

"  Charges. — Vessels  entering  the  harbor  are  charged  light 
fees,  5  cents  per  ton  for  first  100  tons,  12|  cents  for  every 
additional  ton,  and  in  coming  to  wharf,  wharfage  in  propor- 
tion to  tonnage,  as  per  printed  rates  of  the  Panama  Railroad 
Company.  Tonnage  dues,  $1  per  ton.  Ships  landing  car- 
goes at  Colon  for  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  must  present  to  the 
inspector  of  the,  j)ort  a  general  manifest  of  all  cargoes  to  be 
landed,  also  a  copy  of  every  invoice  with  the  certificate  of 
the  Colombian  consul  at  the  port  of  shipment.  This  does  not 
applj^  to  cargoes  in  transit. 

"Pilotage. — Not  compulsory,  from  115  to  $30  (all  charges 
payable  in  Colombian  currency). 

Repairs. — The  railroad  company's  machine  shops  offer 
facilities  for  repairs. 

"  Communication. — There  is  regular  steam  communication 
with  various  ports  in  the  United  States  and  Europe,  as  well 
as  with  Central  and  South  American  ports.  Vessels  of  the 
Pacific  Mail  Company  ply  betw^een  Aspinwall  and  New  York 
three  times  a  month  each  wa}^  There  is  telegraphic  commu- 
nication with  the  United  States  via  Jamaica,  and  also  via 
Panama  and  Vera  Cruz. 

"Wharfage. — The  wharfage  is  ample,  and  large  steamers 
find  sufficient  water  (26  to  28  feet)  to  go  alongside  the  wharves 
to  embark  and  discharge.  There  is  a  boat  landing  at  the 
northern  wharf  only. 

"Climate. — The  Panama  Canal  district  is  one  of  the  hottest, 
wettest,  and  most  feverish  regions  in  existence.  Intermittent 
and  malignant  fevers  are  jirevalent,  and  there  is  an  epidemic 
of  yellow  fever  at  times.  The  death  rate  under  normal  con- 
ditions is  large. 

"Rainy  Season. — The  rainy  season  is  from  the  end  of 
April  to  the  end  of  December,  and  almost  incessant  from 
June  to  the  latter  month.  In  1889  the  rainfall  amounted  to 
119  inches,  the  greater  x3ortion  of  which  fell  during  a  period 
of  four  months. 

"  Panama  Canal. — The  proposed  enlarged  port  of  Colon, 
northern  entrance  to  the  intended  Panama  Canal,  was  begun 
on  the  south  shore  of  the  Boca  Chica,  and  the  northern  point 
of  entrance  to  Boca  Chica,  named  Terre-plein,  was  reclaimed 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  63 

for  the  purpose  of  erecting  worksliops  and  stores  and  to  cover 
tlie  entrance  of  the  intended  canal.  The  canal,  46  miles  in 
length,  was  begun  in  sections  in  1882  and  continued  for  several 
years.  In  March,  18Sf),  the  original  Panama  Canal  Companj' 
was  forced  to  go  into  liquidation  for  lack  of  funds  and  to  sus- 
pend i)ayment  and  all  operations  on  the  canal.  In  1894:  a  new 
companj^  was  formed,  which  obtained  a  concession  for  ten 
years,  extended  in  1000  for  six  years,  so  as  to  terminate  in 
1910.  Bj^  that  time,  according  to  the  annual  report  of  1809, 
the  canal  could  be  completed  at  a  cost  of  about  8100,000,000. 

"Manzanillo  Bay. — Between  Manzanillo  Island  and  the 
main  a  small  harbor  is  formed,  which  has  a  depth  of  from  4 
to  2  fathoms.  At  the  entrance,  which  is  three-fourths  mile 
w  ide,  there  is  an  anchorage  in  5  fathoms,  sand  and  clay,  about 
one-fourth  mile  from  the  eastern  shore,  with  the  west  end  of 
Margarita  Cay  just  open  to  the  westward  of  Coco  Solo  Point, 
bearing  N.  6°  W.  (N.  11°  AV.  mag.). 

"The  coast. — Longarremos  Point  is  formed  of  low  man- 
groves and  bordered  with  reefs  to  a  distance  of  somewhat 
more  than  200  yards,  having  11  fathoms  of  water  close-to. 
About  5  miles  east-northeast  of  the  point  are  the  Xaranjos 
Cays,  covered  with  trees  and  surrounded  b}^  reefs.  To  the 
westward  of  them  is  anchorage  in  4  to  7  fathoms,  mud. 

"Between  the  point  and  ca^'s  the  mangrove  shore  is  very 
irregular,  and  forms  two  bights  or  creeks,  named  'Minas;'  the 
eastern  extends  inward  to  the  south-southeast  about  3  miles, 
but  varies  in  breadth;  the  western  runs  into  the  southward 
about  a  mile,  and  is  much  narrower  than  the  other,  and  the 
shore  of  both  are  fringed  with  coral. 

"  These  cays  are  near  the  entrance  to  the  Grande  River, 
and  from  here  the  coast  trends  about  northeast  by  east  5 
miles  to  Gorda  Point,  the  land  gradually  diminishing  in 
height  from  the  point  to  the  river,  and  westward  of  the  river 
is  very  low  and  bounded  by  mangroves.  From  the  point  the 
coast  trends  to  the  northeast  to  Buenaventura  Cove  about 
one-half  mile  to  the  southward  of  Cocal  Point.  The  cove  is 
so  obstructed  by  reefs  as  to  be  of  little  use. 

"PoRTOBELO  (Porto  Bello)  is  one  of  the  best  harbors  west 
of  Cartagena.  The  port  being,  however,  inclosed  to  the 
north  and  south  b}^  hills  ranging  from  600  to  1,300  feet  high, 
shutting  out  the  regular  breezes,  and  bounded  on  the  east  by 
dense  swamps,  the  position  is  exceedingly  unhealthy,  and  the 


64  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

port  is  now  of  little  commercial  importance.  The  forts  and 
government  bnildings  have  fallen  into  decay.  The  popula- 
tion in  1882  numbered  about  500. 

"  The  north  side  of  the  port  is  formed  by  a  narrow  irregular 
island,  nearly  1^  miles  in  length  from  east  to  west,  of  mod- 
erate elevation,  and  steep-to.  The  south  shore  is  bounded 
bj'^  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  rise,  not  far  inland,  to  a 
height  of  1,300  feet,  and  are  seldom  unclouded.  This  side  is 
foul,  being  skirted  by  a  coral  reef  to  the  distance  of  200  to 
400  yards,  with  irregular  soundings  some  distance  outside; 
the  depth  of  the  water  in  the  harbor  is  reported  to  be 
decreasing  considerably. 

"The  village  of  Portobelo  and  the  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  St. 
Jeronimo  are  situated  on  the  beach,  in  the  southeast  corner 
of  Portobelo.  There  is  a  sand  bank  of  0  feet  water  extending 
in  a  northerly  and  westerly  direction  from  the  castle.  On  the 
north  shore,  oj^posite  the  town,  are  the  ruins  of  San  Fernando 
Castle,  hidden  bj^  bushes. 

"  Off  Cocal  Point,  the  southwest  point  of  the  port,  are  three 
small  islets,  the  outermost  and  largest  named  'San  Buena- 
ventura,' Ijang  600  yards  south  westward  of  the  point.  Foul 
ground  extends  about  GOO  j^ards  to  the  westward  and  north- 
ward of  these  islets;  and  at  this  distance,  with  the  northwest 
point  of  the  outer  islet  bearing  south  (S.  5°  E.  mag.),  and 
Cocal  Point  S.  55°  E.  (S.  60°  E.  mag.),  is  the  Farnesio  Shoal, 
of  4  fathoms,  within  which  there  is  no  safe  passage. 

"At  the  head  of  the  port  a  sand  bank  stretches  off  about 
500  yards  from  the  mangroves,  leaving  a  channel  on  the 
north  side  into  the  careening  cove,  which  has  depths  of  3  or 
4  fathoms. 

"  Between  Portobelo  Point  and  San  Buenaventura  Islet  the 
width  of  the  entrance  is  1^  miles;  but  a  short  distance  within 
this,  between  Iron  Castle  Point  and  the  south  shore,  it  is 
about  one-half  mile  wide;  this  breadth  is  carried  up  for 
about  a  mile,  to  the  head  of  the  harbor,  and  the  depth  gradu- 
ally decreases  from  17  to  7  fathoms,  close  up  to  the  edge  of 
the  sand  bank. 

Green  Islet. — At  300  yards  southwestward  of  Portobelo 
Point  is  Green  Islet,  little  more  than  100  yards  in  extent  from 
east  to  west,  and  having  a  break  in  the  middle  which  appears 
at  a  certain  distance  to  divide  it  into  two  parts.     It  is  clear  all 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  65 

around,  but  the  passage  between  it  and  the  point  is  not  safe 
for  large  vessels. 

Salmedina  Bank. — xVt  one-fourth  mile  west  of  Green  Islet 
is  the  Salmedina  l>ank,  on  wliicli  the  sea  breaks  in  two  dis- 
tinct patches.  It  is  composed  of  rock,  about  100  yards  in 
extent,  dry  at  low  water,  with  G  fathoms  close  around;  in  the 
channel  between  it  and  the  islet  there  are  10  to  21  fathoms, 
clay.  The  bank  has  been  reported  as  lying  N.  79°  W.  (N. 
84"^  W.  mag.),  three-fourths  mile  from  the  position  assigned. 

"Directions  for  Portobelo. — The  wind  generally  blows 
out  of  Portobelo,  or  is  light  and  baffling,  according  to  the 
seasons;  a  vessel  will  therefore  most  probably  have  to  work 
or  tow  in.  In  approaching  from  the  northward  it  is  advisable 
to  leave  the  Duarte  Islets  about  one-half  mile  to  the  east- 
ward, thence  avoiding  the  position  of  the  rock  charted  off 
Mantilla  Point,  steer  to  pass  about  200  yards,  or  with  a 
steadj^  breeze  even  less,  from  Green  Islet,  to  avoid  the 
Salmedina. 

"Having  passed  the  islet,  the  vessel  may  keep  close  to  tlie 
wind,  with  the  north  shore  aboard,  and  in  the  season  of  the 
breezes  she  will  fetch  into  the  middle  of  the  harbor.  After 
passing  Iron  Castle  Point,  in  working  up,  when  standing  to 
the  southward,  no  part  of  the  town  must  be  shut  in  with  the 
land  to  the  westwai-d,  to  avoid  the  ledge  off  the  south  shore. 
An  anchorage  may  be  taken  up  as  most  convenient,  for  with 
the  exception  of  the  above  ledge,  there  is  no  known  danger. 

"  When  approaching  from  the  westward  it  is  recommended 
to  keep  the  shore  about  3  miles  distant;  and  in  the  night  the 
soundings  should  not  be  neglected,  as  between  Chagres  and 
this  port  they  extend  from  8  to  10  miles.  From  this  direction 
the  entrance  is  made  known  b}^  two  remarkable  trees  on  the 
top  of  the  hill  on  the  south  side  and  a  signal  post  upon  a  hill 
on  the  north  side  of  the  harbor;  the  continued  existence  of 
either,  however,  is  very  doubtful,  but  from  this  quarter  tlie 
opening  itself  is  sulhciently  remarkable.  In  standing  toward 
the  San  Buenventura  Islands  Green  Island  must  not  be  opened 
to  the  westward  of  Portobelo  Point  or  brought  to  bear  to  the 
northward  of  N.  28°  E.  (N.  23°  E.  mag. ),  and  in  standing  toward 
tiie  Farnesio  Shoal  from  the  northward  the  northernmost 
extremity  of  the  lines  of  St.  Jeronimo  castle  must  be  kept 
well  open  of  the  land. 

12312—03 5 


66  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"  From  May  to  November  liiibt  l)reezes  from  the  son. tli west 
and  Avest  Avitli  heavy  rain  prevail  in  the  harbor,  but  toward 
morninf2:  there  is  a>  ligiit  air  from  the  northeast;  therefore,  in 
leaving,  vessels  should  be  prepared  to  get  under  wa^^  at  da.y- 
break,  Avitli  1)oats  ahead  to  tow. 

"  It  is  also  to  be  observed  that  the  northeasterly  current 
runs  strong  close  to  the  entrance  of  Portobelo,  and  in  the 
rainy  season  at  least  1|  knots  an  hour  as  far  as  Farallon  Sucio. 
Sailing  vessels,  therefore,  should  make  the  port  from  the  west- 
Avard,  more  particularly  during  the  months  of  August  to 
November. 

"Portobelo  (Porto  ]3ello)  Point,  the  northwest  point 
of  the  entrance  of  Portobelo,  bears  S.  20°  W.  (S.  15°  W.  mag.) 
2^  miles  from  the  northernmost  i)art  of  the  Duarte  Islets. 
The  coast  is  high  and  scarped,  and  close  westward  of  Mantilla 
Harbor  is  a  small  harbor  called  Leon,  of  not  much  importance, 
the  entrance  being  almost  blocked  up  by  reefs  and  a  small 
island  at  the  mouth. 

"Rock. — Midway  between  the  Duarte  Islands  and  Porto- 
belo Point  and  700  yards  offshore  there  is  a  rock  which  always 
breaks.  Jose  Pobre  Point  is  just  open  off  Sabanilla  Point 
N.  56°  E.  (N.  51°  E.  mag.)  when  near  it. 

"Sabanilla  Point  is  fringed  by  a  reef  and  some  rocks, 
the  adjacent  coast  is  high  and  scarped  with  some  bays,  and 
Jose  Pobre  Point,  N.  61°  E.  (N.  oC)°  E.  mag.),  li  miles  from 
Sabanilla  Point,  projects  a  short  distance. 

"Duarte  Islets  are  four  in  number,  extending  north-north- 
west and  south-southeast  three-fourths  of  a  mile.  From  the 
northernmost  islet  a  reef  extends  in  a  northwesterly  direction 
about  200  yards.  The  southernmost  islet  is  separated  from 
Duarte  Point  on  the  main  by  a  channel  a  little  more  than  400 
yards  wide,  and  from  Sabanilla  Point  by  a  channel  a  little 
more  than  one-third  of  a  mile  across;  between  these  two 
channels  there  are  from  2f  fathoms  water  close  to  the  islet  to 
15  fathoms  toward  the  main.  The  southeast  side  of  the 
island  is  fringed  by  a  reef  to  the  distance  of  100  yards  or 
more. 

"Farallon  Sucio  is  the  name  given  to  the  westernmost 
of  a  cluster  of  five  small  rugged  rocks,  which  occupy  a  space 
of  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  from  east  to  west.  It  appears 
to  be  steep-to,  but  from  the  easternmost  rock  a  foul  ledge 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  67 

extends  300  yards  to  the  southeast.  The  northernmost  islet 
lies  west  nearlj'  4  miles  from  Tambor  Island,  witli  16  to  30 
fathoms  clay  and  sand  between,  and  16,  21,  22,  and  25  fathoms 
between  the  north  islet,  the  islets  off  the  coast,  and  Lavadera 
Shoal.  These  rocks  appear  from  a  distance  as  one  islet,  which 
is  remarkable  for  its  barren  whiteness.  This  contrast  with 
tiie  Diiarte  Islets,  which  are  dark,  or  the  mainland,  makes 
them  an  excellent  landmark  from  all  directions. 

"  BOQUERONES  PoiNT  is  high,  salient,  and  scarped.  Abont 
a  mile  to  the  southward  Casiqiie  Hill  rises  to  a  peak  of  moder- 
ate heiglit.  Northeastward  of  the  point  there  are  five  small 
islets  named  the  Boquerones,  abont  600  yards  in  extent, 
which  are  the  westernmost  of  the  reefs  and  cays  that  extend 
from  Pelado  Islet. 

"Garrote  Harbor. — At  2^  miles  sonthwestward  of  the 
highest  part  of  Tambor  Island  is  the  entrance  of  Garrote 
Harbor,  which  is  formed  on  the  south  side  by  the  mainland, 
on  the  east  by  Great  Garrote  Island,  and  on  the  west  by 
Pelado  and  other  islets,  which  extend  westward  for  about  1| 
miles  to  the  mouth  of  the  13oquerones.  The  entrance,  which 
is  scarcely  600  j^ards  wide  between  the  reefs  westward  of  Great 
Garrote  Island  and  Pelado  Islets,  runs  in  a  southerly  and 
southeasterly  direction,  with  depths  from  12  to  18  fathoms, 
mud,  decreasing  to  Q^  fathoms  within. 

"Bastimentos  Harbor,  although  with  depths  of  3^  to  7 
fathoms  and  sheltered,  is  of  little  imjiortance.  All  its  shores 
are  bounded  l)y  reefs,  and  the  customary  anchorage  is  to  the 
southwest,  south,  and  southeast  of  the  south  or  sandy  point 
of  Bastimentos  Island. 

"Bastimentos  Island  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length  northeast 
and  southwest,  and  forms,  with  the  mainland,  the  northeast 
channel  of  Bastimentos  Harbor,  which  is  about  300 yards  wide 
batween  the  reefs,  with  5  and  5^  fathoms,  sand.  Tlie  island 
is  foul  on  its  southeast,  south,  and  southwest  sides;  the  latter, 
with  Cabret  Island,  which  bears  a  liitle  to  the  south  of  west, 
forms  the  northwest  channel,  600  yards  wide  in  the  narrowest 
part  between  the  reefs,  and  carries  from  3^  to  0  fathoms,  mud. 

"Lavadera  Shoal,  northward,  nearly  three-fourths  of  a 
mile  from  the  northern  extremity  of  Pelado  Islet  and  west  1 
mile  of  Cabret  Islet,  at  the  mouth  of  Bastimentos  Harbor,  is 
composed  of  rock  with  ver}'  little  water  on  it,  and  steep-to 


68  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

There  are  7  and  9  fathoms  close  to  a  rock,  on  which  the  sea 
breaks.  The  channels  between  it  and  Cabret  and  Pelado  islets 
carry  from  14  to  17  fathoms  on  mnd. 

"Mountains.— Between  Garrote  and  Bastimentos  harbors 
is  the  hill  of  Garrote,  tolerably  high,  its  snmmit  terminating 
in  a  peak,  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  coast.  At 
3t  miles  about  south  by  east  of  the  little  ba}'  of  Garrote  is  the 
high  mountain  of  Capira,  almost  always  covered  with  clouds. 
It  is  nearly  east  from  Porto  Bello. 

"At  a  short  distance  to  the  southward  of  Capira  are  the 
Sierras  Lloronas,  extending  nearly  east  and  west.  The  east- 
ern part  of  its  summit  appears  as  if  cut  down  vertically,  form- 
ing a  peak,  named  Campana,  or  the  Bell,  and  from  this  peak 
the  ridge  descends  gradually  to  the  westward  to  near  the 
peak  of  Guanche.  The  Llorona  is  the  highest  range  on  this 
part  of  the  main,  its  summit  reaching  an  elevation  of  .3,000 
feet,  and  its  appearance  is  such  that  it  can  not  be  mistaken 
for  an}'  other.  In  clear  weather  it  may  be  seen  from  a  dis- 
tance of  45  miles,  but  in  the  season  of  fresh  breezes  it  is  gen- 
erally covered  with  haze.  In  the  season  of  the  vendavales 
and  variable  winds  it  is  often  visible  betAveen  8  and  9  in  the 
morning  and  4  and  5  in  the  afternoon,  but  in  the  remainder 
of  the  daj^  it  is  covered  with  clouds. 

"Tambor  Island,  about  H  miles  westward  from  Manza- 
nillo  Point,  is  high,  round,  and  scarped,  and  connected  by  a 
reef  400  j'ards  long,  with  the  northernmost  part  of  Venados 
or  Bastimentos  Island. 

"Manzanillo  Point,  the  northern  extremity  of  the  coast 
of  Panama,  is  a  high  scarped  projection,  with  two  hummocks 
on  it  resembling  a  saddle.  Near  this  point  are  several  islets 
and  a  shoal.  Martin  Pescador,  the  outermost  islet,  is  about 
200  j-ards  in  extent  from  north  to  south,  and  lies  about  a 
mile  eastward  of  the  point.  About  8O0  yards  S.  28°  W.  (S.  23' 
W.  mag.)  of  this  islet  and  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  from 
the  point  is  Manzanillo  Island,  which  is  the  largest.  Off  the 
north  side  of  this  island  are  three  rocky  islets,  the  farthest 
out  being  distant  over  200  yards.  S.  28°  W.  (S.  23°  W.  mag. )  of 
'he  same  island  there  are  three  more  small  islets,  surrounded 
by  reefs  extending  northeast  and  southwest,  and  also  to  the 
eastward,  about  300  j-ards,  there  is  another  small  one.  All 
these  islets  are  high  and  scarped.  Between  those  of  JVIanza- 
nillo  and  Martin  Pescador  there  are  from  10  to  14  fathoms 
water. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  69 

"  Manzanillo  Shoal,  Ijing  northwestward,  distant  800 
yards  from  Manza.iillo  Point,  has  very  little  water  over  it 
and  5  and  6  fathoms  close-to.  l^etween  it  and  the  point  the 
depth  is  13  fathoms. 

"With  Manzanillo  Point  bearing  S.  51°  W.  (S.  46°  W.  mag.) 
and  Tambor  Island  west  (S.  85°  W.  mag.)  about  4  miles  dis- 
tant, 6  fathoms  water,  over  rocky  bottom,  have  been  obtained, 
deepening  to  20  fathoms  in  a  northwest  direction. 

.  "  Light — Isla  Grande  Light. — On  Isla  Grande,  off  Man- 
zanillo Point,  from  a  white  tower  is  shown  a  light  flashing 
white  and  red,  alternately,  every  five  seconds.  The  light  is 
elevated  305  feet  and  visible  24  miles.  The  light  has  been 
observed  to  be  very  irregular  in  its  action,  sometimes  obscured 
and  sometimes  showing  white  or  red  only  for  some  minutes' 
duration. 

"San  Cristoval  Bay.— At  5  miles  S.  79°  E.  (S.  84°  E. 
mag.)  of  Manzanillo  Point,  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  which 
is  the  islet  of  Marti u  Pescador,  is  Pescador  Point;  both  are 
high  and  scarped.  Between  these  points  the  shore  recedes 
to  the  southward,  forming  a  bight  about  3  miles  deep.  At  3f 
miles  westward  of  Pescador  Point  the  shore  projects  con- 
siderably at  Cristoval  Point,  and  to  the  southwestward  of 
this,  at  the  bottom  of  the  bight,  is  the  small  foal  Ijay  of  San 
Cristoval.  About  400  yards  northeastward  of  Cristoval  Point 
is  an  islet  named  Juan  del  Pozo,  surrounded  by  rocks,  and 
about  southeast  one-half  mile  from  the  islet  is  the  Vibora 
Bank.  Between  this  bank  and  Juan  del  Pozo,  and  between 
the  latter  and  the  point,  there  are  9,  10,  and  13  fathoms 
water  on  gravel  and  coarse  sand,  and  between  the  Vibora 
and  Buey  shoals,  off  Pescador  Point,  there  are  about  the 
same  depths  on  sand  and  claj'. 

"From  tdie  head  of  San  Cristoval  Bay  reefs  extend  nearly 
a  mile  toward  Cristoval  Point.  This  part  is  dangerous  in 
strong  winds.  The  coast  between  Cristoval  and  Manzanillo 
points  is  lofty  and  scarped. 

"  NoMBRE  DE  Dios  TL\RBOR. — At  the  east  side  of  San  Cris- 
toval Bay,  about  H  milfs  southwestward  of  Pescador  Point, 
is  the  small  cove  or  harbor  of  Nombre  de  Dios.  Its  mouth 
has  3:^,  4,  and  5  fathoms,  but  the  entrance  points  are  skirted 
by  reefs,  and  so  is  the  greater  part  of  the  interior. 

" Caution.  —  From  the  numerous  shoals  which  have  been 
pointed  out  it  will  be  quite  evident  to  the  mariner  that  to 


70  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

navigate  within  this  bight  requires  tlie  greatest  care  and 
attention,  and  the  leeward  part  of  it  shoidd  be  avoided 
altogether. 

"Pescador  or  Terrin  Point  is  fringed  with  reefs  which 
extend  northward  200  yards  and  westward  one-lialf  mile,  and, 
continuing  on  in  a  southerl}^  direction,  surround  three  islets 
lying  between  the  point  and  the  northeast  point  of  Norabre 
de  Dios  Harbor.  At  400  yards  northwestward  of  Pescador 
Point  is  Pescador  Islet,  and  N.  02°  W.  (N.  67°  W.  inag.), 
about  a  mile  from  the  same  point,  is  the  Buey  Shoal,  between 
which  and  the  reefs  sl^:irting  Pescador  Point  there  are  9  and 
12  fathoms. 

"  Mountains. — Among  the  mountains  in  this  neigliborliood 
two  are  remarl^able,  named  Saxino  and  Nombre  de  Dios.  The 
first  is  high  and  terminates  in  two  peaks  near  each  other,  the 
northeastern  most  of  which  bears  about  8.  6°  E.  (S.  11°  E. 
mag. )  7  miles  from  Pescador  Point.  The  latter  mountain  rises 
to  a  single  peak,  about  south  by  west  S  miles  from  the  same 
l>oint,  and  is  a  guide  for  Xombre  de  Dios  Harbor,  which  is 
nearl}^  on  its  meridian. 

"Islands. — At  8  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Pescadoi-  Point 
is  Quengo  Island,  about  one-half  mile  from  shore,  and  <i  miles 
farther  eastward  is  the  small  islet  of  Culebra. 

"Mountains. — The  mountains  along  this  coast  are  suffi- 
ciently remarkable  and  useful  objects.  The  Cerro  de  la  (4ran 
Loma  or  Gordo,  rising  southwestward  7  miles  from  Culebra 
Islet,  being  rather  more  prominent  than  others  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, serves  as  a  mark  for  keeping  clear  of  the  Escribanos 
bank  and  shoals.  The  summit  of  this  hill  is  of  some  extent, 
and  appears  a  little  higher  than  the  Cordillera,  in  which  it  is 
situated. 

"  Escribanos  Harbor. — Cocos  Point  is  on  the  east  side  of 
the  mouth  of  Escribanos  Harbor.  Thence  the  shore  to  Perro 
Cay  is  low  and  forms  sometliing  of  a  bay,  skirted  by  a  reef. 
The  most  prominent  objects  on  it  are  Playa  Colorado,  which 
is  round  and  skirted  by  reefs  extending  off  200  yards;  Mogote 
Point,  which  is  small,  a  little  salient,  and  has  a  hillock  on  it; 
and  Morro  Colorado,  also  round,  scarped,  and  i)r()jecting  but 
little. 

"Cocos  Point  projects  into  the  sea,  and  from  it  Escribanos 
Point  bears  W.  0 '  S.  (W.  11°  S.  mag.)  If  miles.  In  the  nuddle 
of  a  bay  formed  between  these  p;)ints  is  Escribanos  Harbor, 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  71 

extend in<!:  to  tlie  southwHrd  one-half  mile,  and  having  only 
from  G  to  0  feet  water  in  it.  Outside,  off  both  points,  tliere 
are  very  shallow  reefs,  and  in  the  channel  formed  by  them 
there  are  from  3|  to  <•  fathoms. 

"  P^scRiBANOS  Shoals. — About  2  miles  uortheastwai-d  of 
Escribanos  Point  there  are  two  rockj^  shoals  lying  close 
together,  with  very  little  water  over  them.  The  one  nearest 
the  coast  extends  east-northeast  and  west-southwest  about  a 
mile,  and  has  a  small  islet  upon  it;  the  other  lies  about  west- 
northwest  from  the  islet,  and  is  nearly  a  mile  in  extent  from 
east  to  west;  both  are  steep-to,  with  o  and  -t  fathoms  on  them. 

"Escribanos  Bank.— At  5^  miles  N.  51°  W.  (N.  o(i°  W. 
mag.)  of  the  Escribanos  Shoals  is  the  bank  of  the  same  name, 
which  extends  nearly  2  miles  in  that  direction,  and  has  from 
0  to  8  fathoms  water  over  rock}^  bottom.  There  is  possibly 
less  water.  To  tlie  northward  of  this  edge  400  yards  are  10 
to  31  fathoms,  and  its  northwest  end  bears  X.  31:°  W.  (N,  39° 
W.  mag.)  8  miles  from  Escribanos  Point.  Heavy  seas  gen- 
erallj'  break  upon  it,  but  otherwise  a  good  lookout  must  be 
kept  fi'om  aloft  for  the  discolored  water. 

"The  channel  between  this  bank  and  the  Escribanos  Shoals 
carries  from  8  to  17  fathoms  water  on  sand,  gravel,  and  rocks. 

"Coral  Shoal. — In  1879  the  captain  of  the  mail  steamer 
Saint  Laurent  reported  that  his  vessel  touched  twice  1<>  miles 
from  the  coast,  between  San  Bias  and  Manzanillo  points. 
Cape  Manzanillo  bore  S.  79°  W.  (S.  74°  W.  mag.),  and  the 
vessel  had  passed  3  miles  to  the  northward  of  Escribanos 
]5ank. 

"The  captain  thought  the  vessel  struck  upon  a  bank  of 
coral.  When  she  struck  the  second  time  the  following  bear 
ings  were  taken:  Quengo  Island  S.  G°  E.  (S.  11°  E.  mag.),  and 
Tambor  Island  S.  70°  AV.  (S.  65°  W.  mag.).  Xo  surroundings 
Avere  taken.  Vessels  should  pass  well  to  the  northward  of 
this  doubtful  ground. 

"PiEDRAS  AND  Perro  CAYS.— -Off  the  northern  part  of  San 
Bias  Point,  which  is  low  and  covered  with  mangroves,  lie  the 
Piedras  and  Perro  caj's,  united  to  the  Ca}'  Frances  Reef, 
which  terminate  at  an  island  in  front  of  a  lagoon  1^  miles 
farther  to  the  westward. 

"  Gulf  of  San  Blas.— San  Bias  Point,  which  forms  the 
north  point  of  the  gulf  of  that  name,  is  low  and  skirted  b}'  a 
reef  to  the  distance  of  If  miles,  on   which  are  several  caj's; 


72  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

the  easternmost  is  named  'Cay  Frances.'  From  San  Bias 
Point  to  Mandinga  Point,  south  of  it,  the  gulf  is  6  miles  wide, 
and  to  the  westward  of  that  line  it  is  about  the  same  distance 
deep;  the  coast  is  low  all  round  and  bounded  by  mangroves. 
In  a  southwesterly  and  westerly  direction  from  Cay  Frances 
there  are  12  or  more  islets,  upon  some  of  which  are  small 
fishing  establishments,  and  to  the  eastward  of  them  are  many 
banks  and  islands,  forming  part  of  the  Mulatas  Archipelago, 
with  various  channels  between. 

The  bottom  is  foul  for  1}  miles  northeastward  of  Cay  Fran- 
ces, at  which  distance  the  depth  is  4  fathoms  on  the  edge  of 
the  reef,  whence  it  drops  into  deep  water. 

"San  Blas  Channel,  the  westernmost  into  the  gulf,  lies 
between  the  San  Bias  Cays  to  the  westward  and  the  Chichime 
and  Lemon  caj^s  to  the  eastward  and  southeastward,  and  is 
If  miles  wide,  with  depths  in  the  fairway  of  11  to  25  fathoms. 

"  Chichime  Channel  lies  close  eastwai-d  of  Lemon  Cays, 
and  is  about  one-half  mile  wide  with  a  depth  of  12  fathoms. 
Patches  of  5  fathoms  lie  1^  and  2  miles  northwestward  of 
Chichime  Cavs. 

"IIOLANDES  Channel,  the  largest  of  all  in  this  direction, 
is  2^  miles  in  width,  with  depths  of  13  to  30  fathoms  on  sandy 
bottom.  Its  entrance  is  formed  on  the  east  by  the  western 
extremity  of  the  reef  extending  from  the  Ilolandes  Cays, 
which  break  heavily,  and  on  the  southwest  by  Icacos  Cay, 
which  is  dry  and  covered  with  high  icacos  trees. 

"At  a  little  more  than  li  miles  to  the  Avest-northwest  of 
Holandes  Cays  there  is  a  rocky  bank  of  6  fathoms,  one-half 
mile  long  north  and  south,  which  breaks  when  there  is  but 
little  swell.     It  should  be  left  to  the  westward  in  entei-ing. 

"Directions. — To  enter  the  Gulf  of  San  Bhis  by  the  San 
Bias  Channel,  wJiich  is  the  best,  having  opened  out  the  mouth 
of  the  channel  and  being  on  the  meridian  of  the  second  islet 
(from  the  westward)  of  the  Lemon  Cays,  steer  south  (S.  5''  E. 
mag.)  toward  it  until  about  abreast  Cay  Frances,  the  eastern- 
most of  the  San  Bias  Cays.  Thence  the  course  will  be  about 
southwest,  through  the  middle  of  the  San  Bias  Channel,  be- 
tween the  reefs  which  extend  from  Cay  Frances  and  those 
from  Gallo  Cay,  the  westernmost  of  the  Lemon  Cays.  Being 
Avitliiu  the  latter,  a  vessel  may  proceed  as  most  convenient  to 
an  anchorage  on  the  north  side  of  the  gulf,  or  to  Inglesa  Baj-, 
in  the  southwest  part  of  it,  or  to  that  in  Mandinga  r>ay,  which 
is  well  sheltered. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  73 

"Should  the  Ilolandes  Cluinnel  be  taken,  the  eastern  side 
is  well  marked  b}-  the  edges  of  the  reefs  extending  from  the 
westernmost  of  the  Holandes  Cays,  and,  as  already  said,  a  ves- 
sel should  pass  between  them  and  the  6-fathom  bank,  on 
which  the  sea  generally  breaks,  situated  N.  02^  W.  (N.  67° 
W.  mag.)  14  miles  from  them.  Then  steer  for  the  east  end 
of  the  Icacos  Reef,  giving  it  a  good  berth  in  passing;  and 
having  brought  Icacos  Cay  to  bear  X.  5°  E.  (Xorth  mag.) 
shape  course  to  pass  southward  of  Guard  Cay  to  Mand  inga  Bay. 
The  channel  is  clear  of  danger,  with  depths  from  21  to  25 
fathoms,  oozj-  bottom,  and  from  2|  to  3  miles  wide,  between 
groups  of  rocks,  detached  ca3^s,  and  reefs. 

"  Caution. — Little  is  known  of  the  northwest  or  southwest 
heads  of  the  gulf,  and  great  caution  should  be  exercised  when 
navigating  here;  the  ej'e,  aloft,  is  the  best  guide. 

"Trade. — The  district  of  San  Bias  has  not  been  open  to 
civilization  or  settlement,  as  the  Indians  inhabiting  its 
coast  and  mountains  are  openly  hostile  to  Colombian  rule;  it 
is  therefore  but  little  known.  Vessels  tradingalong  this  coast 
are  obliged  to  call  at  Cartagena,  where  duties  are  levied  and 
collected  on  their  cargoes. 

"MuLATAS  Archipelago. — Off  San  Bias  Point  commences 
the  extensive  archipelago  of  the  Mulatas,  composed  of  cays, 
shoals,  and  reefs,  which,  sweeping  round  to  the  southeast- 
ward at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  mainland,  terminate 
at  Pajaros  Island,  about  80  miles  distant.  Pajaros  Island 
lies  about  2  miles  northward  of  Pinos  Isle.  It  is  low,  covered 
with  brushwood,  and  surrounded  bj'  reefs  having  7  and  8 
fathoms  close-to. 

"The  ca3'S  are  mostly  low,  fiat,  sand.y,  and  thickly  wooded, 
and  lying  in  clusters,  having  navigable  channels  between, 
leading  into  secure  anchorages  within  them  all  along  the 
shore.  Some  of  the  caj's  have  springs  of  good  water,  and 
convenient  spots  for  landing  and  careening,  and  the  fishing 
and  turtling  around  them  is  excellent. 

"The  main  shore  contains  several  sandy  bays,  with  many 
small  sti-eams  running  into  them,  but  from  the  fringe  reef  are 
extremel}'  difficult  of  access. 

"The  interior  of  the  main  is  high  and  mountainous,  and 
there  are  many  remarkable  peaks,  which  serve  as  guides  to 
the  anchorages  and  channels  to  those  with  local  knowledge. 

"The  principal  channels  are  those  of  San  Bias,  Chichime. 


74  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Holandes,  Caobos,  Moron,  Mangles,  Puyatlas,  Arebalo,  Playon 
Grande,  Ratones.  Rio  de  Monos,  Cocos,  Punta  ]>rava,  Zaiu- 
bogandi,  Cniti,  Mosquitos,  and  Pinos,  which  are  all  more  or 
less  easily  navigated  by  those  acqnainted  with  them.  Great 
care  and  attention  to  the  lead  is  required  in  navigating  this 
coast,  for  it  is  supjjosed  many  banks  lie  outside  the  cays  simi- 
ar  to  those  in  the  neighborhood  of  tlie  Sasardi  Islands,  which 
in  heav3'  weather  are  dangerous. 

"Holandes  Cays. — This  group  is  about  7  miles  in  extent 
east  to  west.  Its  eastern  extremity  lies  N.  S4^  E.  (N.  79°  E. 
mag.),  18  miles  from  San  Bias  Point.  The  north  side  of  the 
reef  which  bounds  the  cays  is  8  to  10  miles  from  the  coast, 
and  the  cays  are  separated  from  those  immediately  adjacent 
to  tlie  mainland  by  a  clear  opening  3  miles  wide.  A  patch 
of  5  fathoms  lies  about  2  miles  S.  11°  E.  (S.  16°  E.  mag.)  of 
Caobos,  the  largest  of  the  Holandes  Cays.  It  is  apparentlj^ 
the  best  channel  to  the  anchorages  in  the  Gulf  of  San  Bias 
when  coming  from  the  eastward,  but  sailing  vessels  would 
have  to  leave  b}^  one  of  the  nortliern  channels.  Many  sjiots 
on  the  chart  have  not  been  sounded. 

"Navagandi  or  Mona  River. — At  3  or  4  miles  to  the 
westward  of  Pinos  Isle  is  the  entrance  to  this  little  rivei'. 
The  water  in  it  is  excellent,  but  the  narrow  cuts  leading  in 
through  the  reefs  are  intricate  and  the  breakers  so  heavy 
that  it  is  extremely  difficult  and  dangerous  for  a  boat  to  get 
through  them.  Abreast  the  west  end  of  Pinos  Isle  is  the 
entrance  of  the  Navagandi  lagoon,  which  is  blocked  up  by  the 
reefs  which  skii-t  the  shore  all  along. 

"On  a  sandy  spit  on  the  east  side  there  are  a  few  huts,  and 
6  or  7  miles  up  the  river  there  is  a  settlement  where  vegeta- 
bles and  poultry  may  be  obtained. 

"Pinos  Isle,  the  southeastern  extremity  of  which  lies 
northwestward,  about  -  miles  from  Sasardi  Point,  is  about  a 
mile  in  length  southeast  and  northwest,  and  a  little  less  in 
breadth;  it  is  separated  from  the  main  by  a  channel  400  yards 
wide  in  its  narrowest  part,  with  2  to  3  fathoms  water  on  sand 
and  grass.  The  island  is  400  feet  high,  and  a  hill  extends 
thi'ough  it,  on  which  are  two  remarkable  wooded  peaks;  its 
northeast  and  south  sides  are  scarped  and  bordered  b}^  reefs, 
which,  however,  lie  near  the  shore. 

"  Water. — On  the  south  side  of  Pinos  Isle  there  is  a  snuiU 
stream  of  good  water,  v,hich  runs  down  a  gully  and  into  a 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  (  i) 

small  basin  at  the  bottom  of  the  declivit}',  but  so  near  the 
shore  that  an  nnusual  rise  of  the  tide  washes  away  the  sand, 
and  the  sea  flows  into  it. 

"Firewood  may  be  cut  to  the  eastward  of  the  watering 
place,  but  great  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  touching  the 
manchineel  tree,  which  abounds  here  and  is  poisonous. 

"Anchorage. — Tliei-e  is  anchorage  V)oth  off  the  east  and 
west  ends  of  Pinos  Isle,  but  exposed,  tlie  formei-  from  the  east 
to  northeast,  the  latter  from  the  north  to  northwest;  and  a 
constant  ground  swell  rolls  in,  particularly  at  the  eastern 
anchoi-age,  which  makes  riding  very  uneasy.  At  the  east  end 
a  berth  will  be  found  in  0  fathoms,  with  the  south  end  of  the 
island  about  X.  18°  W.  (N.  23"  W.  mag.),  but  vessels  of  light 
draft  may  go  so  far  in  as  to  bring  it  to  bear  X.  28°  E.  (X.  2o° 
E.  mag. ).  Tlie  point  is  so  bold  that  a  small  vessel  might  heave 
down  alongside  it. 

"The  western  anchorage  is  by  far  the  better,  being  partly 
sheltered  from  the  sea  breeze.  These  anchorages,  however, 
should  onlj^  be  used  in  case  of  necessity. 

"Sasardi  Bay  and  Harbor. — The  Hasardi  Islands  are 
separated  from  Sasardi  Point  on  the  main  by  an  opening 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  which  is  exposed  on  the  northeast 
side.  From  Sasardi  Point  the  coast  trends  to  the  northward, 
then  to  the  southwestward;  forming  a  bay  about  three -fourths 
of  a  mile  in  extent,  near  the  center  of  which  there  is  convenient 
anchorage  for  watering  in  4  to  6  fathoms.  The  Sasardi  Rivu- 
let, al)out  10  feet  wide  and  with  2  feet  of  water  on  the  bar, 
flows  into  the  western  side  of  this  ba}"  and  is  the  best  place  to 
obtain  water;  canoes  manage  to  get  up  it  with  some  difficulty 
about  2  miles;  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  there  is  a 
village.  The  land  is  here  much  lower  than  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Port  Escoces. 

"In  the  interior  of  the  bay  there  are  several  shoals  nearly 
awash  and  consequently  easily  avoided;  a  small  reef  with  1^ 
fathoms  on  it  lies  to  the  southward  of  Sasardi  Point,  distant 
about  800  3-ards,  and  just  within  the  line  of  entrance  about 
two-thirds  the  wa}^  across  from  Sasardi  Point  there  is  a  hard 
flat  ledge  about  400  yards  in  length,  upon  which  the  sea  gen- 
erally breaks.  The  channel  to  the  eastward  of  this  ledge  is 
only  400  yards  wide,  with  a  depth  of  4  fathoms;  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  ledge  in  mid-channel  there  are  0  fathoms.  The 
outermost  of  the  banks  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 


76  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

entrance  has  3^  fathoms  over  it  and  lies  N.  42^  E.  (N.  37°  E. 
mag.)  2  miles  from  the  western  extremitj^  of  the  Sasardi 
islands,  "with  the  northeastern  extremity  of  Oro  Island  just 
shut  in  with  the  Crag  Rock,  bearing  S.  32°  E.  (S.  37°  E.  mag.)- 
A  bank  of  44  fathoms  lies  N.  5°  E.  (north  mag.)  1^  miles 
from  the  3|^-fathom  bank. 

"  Supplies. — The  inhabitants  of  the  village  of  Sasardi  sub- 
sist by  iishing  and  hunting  and  the  cultivation  of  i^lantains 
and  cocoa.  The  latter  article  and  cocoanut  oil  are  exported 
in  small  quantities  in  American  vessels,  which  give  in  exchange 
arms,  ammunition,  cotton,  and  culinary  articles.  No  live 
stock  is  to  be  obtained,  but  the  sea  abounds  in  fish,  and  plenty 
of  turtle  are  caught  in  May  and  June. 

"The  interior  is  densely  wooded  with  trees  of  tlie  most 
valuable  description,  growing  to  the  height  of  70  to  100  feet. 
Among  them  are  found  the  mahogany,  cedar,  silk-cotton, 
ebony,  satin  wood,  rosewood,  fustic,  logwood,  with  many  of 
the  pine  family  adapted  for  spars  and  masts.  The  Indians 
use  cedar  for  their  canoes  and  a  red  wood  called  calli-calli, 
which  is  very  hard  and  durable,  notwithstanding  the  destruct- 
ible effects  of  the  worms  and  insects  of  this  climate. 

"Water. — The  Sasardi  Rivulet  is  b}^  far  the  most  con- 
venient place  at  which  to  water. 

"  Directions.— In  approaching  Sasardi  Bay  or  Harbor  from 
the  eastward,  the  mark  already  given  for  the  outer  banks 
should  not  be  crossed  until  the  Sasardi  village  is  brought  just 
in  sight  to  the  southward  of  Sasardi  Point,  S.  87°  \V.  (S.  82° 
W.  mag.).  This  latter  mark  will  lead  to  the  southward  of 
the  outer  bank,  and  when  the  west  end  of  Sasardi  Island 
bears  S.  23°  W.  (S.  18°  W.  mag.)  the  course  may  be  altered 
for  either  of  the  channels  most  convenient.  If  intending  to 
enter  the  harl)or  between  the  cays  and  the  main,  and  the 
eastern  channel  is  taken,  the  reefs  which  skirt  the  Sasardi 
Islands  should  be  rounded  within  200  yards;  if  the  western 
channel,  the  opening  should  be  steered  for  about  07je-third 
the  distance  across  the  Sasardi  Point. 

"After  passing  the  shoal  in  the  middle,  composed  of  hard 
limestone,  Sasardi  Island  will  be  found  steep-to,  and  anchor- 
age may  be  taken  up  anj^where  within  200  yards  of  it  in  from 
5  to  7  fathoms.  The  shoals  all  lie  on  the  western  side  of  the 
harbor,  and  are  easily  avoided  by  the  eye.  To  sail  out  is  not 
so  easy,  except  with  a  land  wind,  for  the  channels  are  nar- 
row and  the  sea  rough  with  the  usual  sea  breeze. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  <  < 

"TlDES.^The  tidal  streams  are  overcome  by  a  eurreiit 
which  sets  tlirough  tlie  Sasardi  Channel  to  the  southeastward 
about  one-third  mile  per  hour. 

"Org  Island,  the  easternmost  and  highest  of  a  range  of 
cays  and  rocks  whicli  lie  fi*om  I  to  3  miles  from  the  mainland 
and  extend  in  a  northwest  direction  about  5  miles,  is  470  feet 
high  at  its  eastern  extremity.  The  edges  of  the  I'eefs  which 
skirt  it  and  the  little  cays  and  rocks  extending  a  mile  to  the 
southeastward  of  it  to  Piedra  Isle  alwaj^s  show  themselves 
and  are  steep-to.  The  Oro  Shoal  of  4  fathoms,  which  lies  -100 
yards  from  the  eastern  point  of  that  island,  also  breaks  in 
strong  breezes. 

"Caledonia  Harbor.— -Between  these  cays  and  the  main 
are  two  well-sheltered  harbors,  the  westernmost,  Sasardi,  the 
easternmost  named  Caledonia,  which  are  oulj^  separated  by 
a  narrow  bar  with  12  feet  w^ater  over  it. 

"The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  one-half  mile  wide  between 
the  shoals  fronting  Oro  Island  and  the  lieventazones  break- 
ers, with  a  depth  of  lo  to  17  fathoms  in  the  fairway  and  8  to 
9  fathoms  in  the  anchorage.  Apparently  there  is  no  settle- 
ment here. 

"Reventazones  Shoals. — The  entrance  to  Caledonia 
Harbor  is  obstructed  by  three  dangerous  shoals,  on  which 
the  sea  breaks  heavily  in  strong  breezes,  lying  about  a  mile 
to  the  southeastward  of  the  cays  extending  from  the  south- 
west end  of  Oro  Island. 

"The  shallowest  spots  are  known  as  Outer,  Middle,  and 
South  shoals,  with  least  known  depths  of  2^  to  3^  fathoms, 
and  cover  a  space  of  1^  miles  north  and  south. 

"A  patch  of  4i  fathoms  lies  about  a  mile  N.  72°  E.  (N.  67° 
E.  mag.)  of  the  south  extreme  of  south  shore,  about  midwa}^ 
between  it  and  an  outlying  4-fathom  patch  in  the  approach 
to  Port  Escoces. 

"Mount  Vernon,  on  the  southeast  point  of  entrance  to  the 
harbor,  and  Piedra  Isle,  the  southeasternmost  of  the  cays 
(which  is  very  small)  in  line,  bearing  about  S.  84°  W.  (S.  79° 
W.  mag.),  will  lead  Just  clear  to  the  uorthw^ard  of  the  outer- 
most shoal,  which  has  3+  fathoms  water.  There  are  chan- 
nels between  the  shoals  and  between  the  southernmost  and 
the  main,  all  of  which  are  clearly  pointed  on  the  chart,  but 
they  are  too  intricate  for  a  stranger  to  navigate. 

"Winds  and  Seasons. — In  Caledonia  Harbor,  as  else- 
where on  this  coast,  there  are  two  seasons,  the  wet  and  the 


W.  T.  comway 

>st  LIEUT,  bth  INFANTRV 


78  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

dry.  The  latter  continues  from  January  to  April  or  Maj-, 
when  the  wind  blows  strong  and  often  violent  during  the  day 
from  north-northwest  to  north-northeast,  accompanied  by  a 
very  heavy  sea,  and  lulls  on  tlie  shore  to  nearly  a  calm  dur- 
ing the  night.  At  this  season  the  temperature  is  about  82°, 
the  atmosphere  is  exceedingly  moist,  and  so  hazy  that  at 
times  the  land  can  not  be  seen  more  than  5  miles,  yet  the 
climate  is  generall}^  healthy. 

"In  the  rainy  season,  which  occupies  the  remaining  portion 
of  the  year,  the  breeze  lulls  and  becomes  variable,  and  a  land 
wind  blows  off,  with  occasional  squalls  from  the  southwest 
Avard. 

"Tides. — It  is  high  water,  full  and  change,  at  Caledonia 
Harbor  at  11  h.  iOm. ;  the  rise  at  springs  is  14^  feet  and  at 
neaps  li  inches. 

"Directions. — Approaching  Caledonia  Harbor,  and  hav- 
ing brought  Oro  Island  to  bear  about  S.  51°  W.  (S.  40°  W. 
mag.)  before  Carreto  Peak  comes  over  the  outer  isleta  (the 
line  of  the  outer  banks),  Piedra  Isle  must  be  brought  in  line 
with  a  remarkable  hill,  bearing  S.  45°  W.  (S.  40°  \V.  mag.), 
which  mark  will  lead  between  the  outer  banks.  The.  reefs 
which  skirt  Ora  Island  must  then  be  rounded  at  the  distance 
of  400  yards,  passing  between  them  and  the  Reventazones 
Banks.  From  abreast  Rocky  Cay  a  vessel  will  generally  have 
to  work  to  windward,  and  when  standing  to  the  westward 
the  south  end  of  the  sandy  beach  in  Surf  Bay  must  not  be 
shut  in  with  San  Fulgencio  Point,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Yer- 
non,  nor  must  Rocky  Cay  be  shut  in  with  Dobbin  Cay  when 
standing  to  the  eastward. 

"These  limits  give  a  clear  space  of  8  to  10  fathoms  water  on 
mud,  in  any  part  of  which  there  is  good  anchorage.  If  desir- 
able to  go  farther  up,  as  far  as  Scorpion  Cay,  the  eye  must 
be  the  guide,  observing  that  the  bottom  can  not  be  seen  at  a 
greater  depth  than  12  feet. 

"An  entrance  can  also  be  made  as  far  to  the  southward  as 
to  bring  on  the  mark  given  before  for  clearing  the  north  end 
of  the  Reventazones,  but  great  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
cpen  Mount  Vernon  to  the  southward  of  Piedra  Isle  before 
these  banks  are  passed  or  the  Oro  Rock  is  in  line  with  Craig 
Rock,  the  outermost  islet. 

"In  sailing  out  of  the  harbor  vessels  will  generally  have  a 
wind  either  from  the  north-northeast  in  the  season  of  the 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  79 

breezes  or  off  the  land  occasionally  in  the  wet  months.  It 
will  be  merely  necessary  to  skirt  Rocky  Caj"^  and  reef  at  a 
safe  distance  and,  getting  on  the  line  of  Piedra  Isle  and  JNFount 
Vernon,  proceed  to  sea  on  that  mark.  Should  the  wind  not 
admit  of  this,  short  tacks  must  be  made  toward  and  along  the 
reef  until  past  the  outer  Reventazones  Shoal.  In  the  event 
of  missing  stays  when  standing  close  to  the  Reventazones 
Breakers,  a  thing  very  likely  to  occur  from  the  heavy  sea,  it 
would  be  better  to  keep  away  and  pass  to  the  leeward  of  the 
shoal  than  attempt  to  tack  again.  Vessels  can  also  pass  out 
along  the  shore  to  the  southward  of  the  Reventazones,  taking- 
care  not  to  go  outside  the  line  between  the  west  extreme  of 
Dobbin  Ca}'  and  a  remarkable  solitary  tree  on  Scorpion  Cay, 
X.  40°  W.  (N.  45°  W.  mag.),  until  the  Aglatomate  huts  bear 
northward  of  N.  85°  W.  (West  mag.),  or  the  outer  isleta  is 
just  shut  in  with  the  northern  extremity  of  P^scoces  Point, 
when  the  vessel  may  haul  out  to  the  eastward  of  those  shoals. 

"Tree  Top  Hill,  200  feet  high,  touching  north  side  of  Man- 
grove Cay  or  the  north  extreme  of  San  Fulgencio  Point,  bear- 
ing N.  65°  W.  (N.  70°  W.  mag.),  leads  between  P^scoees  Point 
and  the  off-lying  banks. 

"EscocES  Point  terminates  at  Pattersons  Hill,  260  feet 
high;  but  3^  miles  to  the  sontliward  of  it  the  mountain  ridge, 
which  extends  parallel  to  the  shore,  rises  to  the  height  of 
1,180  feet,  and  about  7  miles  to  the  westward  to  the  height  of 
1,985  feet.  About  3  miles  southeastward  of  the  point  and 
about  a  mile  from  the  shore  are  three  small  rocky  islets, 
named  Las  Isletas,  and  within  them  is  a  cay  of  lai-ger  dimen- 
sions. 

"  Port  Escoces. — Escoces  Point  is  the  extremity  of  a  nar- 
row neck  of  land  about  2  miles  in  length  in  a  northwest  direc- 
tion which  forms  the  northeast  side  of  an  inlet  of  irregular 
breadth,  named  'Port  Escoces.'  In  the  center  of  the  outer 
part  there  is  a  depth  of  6  fathoms,  whence  it  gradually  de- 
creases to  3  fathoms  at  the  head  of  the  inner  arm. 

The  entrance  is  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide,  but  the 
outer  part  is  obstructed  by  the  Escoces  Reef,  3  feet  high, 
lying  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  to  the  westward  of  Escoces 
Point;  there  is  a  channel  for  either  side  of  it,  but  the  western 
is  the  better.  The  west  and  south  sides  of  the  reef  are  bold, 
but  about  400  yards  N.  G7°  E.  (N.  62°  E.  mag.)  of  it  there  is 
a  small  head,  with  18  feet  water.     With  a  strong  northeast 


80  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

wind  the  sea  breaks  across  between  the  rock  and  Escoces 
Point;  also  on  tlie  Middle  Reef,  Antonio  and  Harbor  Rocks, 
in  the  interior  of  the  inlet. 

"In  tlie  ajiproach  from  tlie  sonthward  and  eastward  are  sev- 
eral coral  banks.  One  of  them,  with  a  least  known  dej)th  of  41 
fathoms,  lies  with  the  north  extreme  of  Escoces  Point  S.  81° 
W.  (S.  76°  AV.  mag-.),  distant  abont  2  miles.  A  patch  of  4 
fathoms  lies  with  the  east  extreme  of  the  point  South  (S.  5° 
E.  mag.),  distant  about  If  miles. 

"  Carreto  Peak,  in  line  or  shut  in  on  the  outer  islet,  leads 
inside  the  4^-fathom  bank,  and  the  peak  kept  open  of  that 
islet  leads  outside  the  4-fathoni  bank. 

"Water. — Several  small  rivulets  of  good  water  run  into  the 
south  side  of  the  port,  but  the}'  are  sometimes  dry,  and  land- 
ing is  generally  difficult.  In  a  little  sandy  bay  about  3  miles 
to  the  westward  of  Escoces  Point,  is  the  entrance  of  the  Agla- 
tomate  River;  and  one-half  mile  farther  on,  in  Surf  Bay,  is 
the  entrance  of  the  Aglaseniqua. 

"These  rivers  are  from  20  to  30  feet  broad  and  never  dry, 
and  the  waters  in  botli  are  excellent,  but  difficult  to  obtain  in 
rough  weather.  When  moderate,  the  best  landing  is  under 
cover  of  the  little  reef  at  the  mouth  of  the  Aglaseniqua;  but 
the  most  convenient  place  for  watering  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Sasardi,  farther  northward.  On  the  west  side  of  the  entrance 
of  the  Aglatomate  there  are  a  few  bamboo  huts. 

"Directions. — Vessels  of  heavier  draft  than  20  feet  must 
approach  the  entrance  to  Port  Escoces  with  great  care,  for 
there  are  several  coral  banks  in  the  offing  which,  in  heavj' 
weather,  are  dangerous.  Having  rounded  the  Escoces  Reef 
within  the  distance  of  about  400  yards  to  the  westward,  the 
eye  must  be  the  guide,  directing  the  course  in  mid-channel 
until  nearly  abreast  the  narrowest  part  of  the  entrance, 
between  the  old  fort  point  and  the  opposite  side,  when  the 
eastern  shore  should  be  kept  aboard  to  avoid  the  Middle  Reef, 
which  may  be  seen  from  aloft. 

"Anchorage  may  be  obtained  as  soon  as  convenient  within 
the  Middle  Reef.  In  entering  the  inner  arm  the  wind  baffles 
so  much  after  passing  HaVbor  Rock  as  to  make  it  very  dan- 
gerous, although  there  may  be  a  strong  breeze  outside. 

"Port  Carreto. — On  the  west  side  of  Carreto  Point,  be- 
tween it  and  some  small  islets  lying  about  1^  miles  to  the 
northwestward  of  it,  the  sliore  curves  to  the  southwestward, 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  81 

forming-  a  bay  about  a  mile  deep,  in  which  there  are  not  less 
than  3  nor  more  than  8  fathoms  water.  Being  exposed,  how- 
ever, to  the  heavy  sea  thrown  in  by  the  northeast  breezes,  it  is 
only  of  use  as  an  anchorage  in  the  season  of  light  weather. 

"Carreto  Shoals. — To  the  northward  of  this  port  about 
1|  miles  are  two  small  rocky  banks,  near  each  other,  lying  in 
a  northeast  and  southwest  direction,  with  5^  fathoms  over 
them  and  20  to  25  fathoms  close  around,  but  they  break  Avith. 
fresh  breezes. 

"Anachucuna  Bay. — From  the  j)oint  under  the  peak  of 
Carreto  to  Cape  Tiburon  the  shore,  consisting  of  a  sandy 
beach,  extends  about  east-southeast  13  miles,  forming  a  bend 
about  2^  miles  deep,  named  Anachucuna  BaA^ 

"Port  Escondido. — At  the  northwest  end  of  this  bay, 
about  2  miles  to  the  south  of  Carreto  Point,  is  the  little  harbor 
of  Escondido,  adapted  only  for  coasting  vessels. 

"Cape  Tiburon. — The  northwestern  extremity  of  the  Gulf 
of  Darien  is  rocky,  high,  and  scari^ed;  projecting  boldly  out 
to  the  northeast,  it  forms  on  each  side  a  small  harbor.  That 
to  the  southward  of  the  neck  is  so  narrow  as  to  be  of  little  use, 
but  Miel  Harbor,  on  the  west  side,  has  good  holding  ground 
of  sand  and  clay,  in  11  to  12  fathoms  water. 

"Gulf  of  Darien. — The  entrance  to  this  gulf  is  formed 
between  Cape  Tiburon  and  Caribana  Point,  which  are  29 
miles  apart;  and  from  this  line  the  gulf  is  40  miles  long. 

"The  western  shore. — From  Cape  Tiburon  the  coast 
takes  a  southeasterly  direction  for  about  12  miles  to  the  Gandi 
River;  .midway  between,  a  mile  offshore,  lies  Tonel  Island, 
which  is  steep-to  on  its  east  side. 

"From  Gandi  River  to  the  point  of  that  name  the  shore 
trends  about  southeast  about  If  miles,  forming  Estola  Bay, 
into  which  the  little  Estola  River  empties,  but  neither  the 
river  nor  the  bay  is  of  any  importance. 

"From  Gandi  to  Tripo  Gandi  Point  a  low  sandy  shore 
trends  nearh^  east-southeast  about  G  miles,  forming  Gandi 
Bay.  Piton  Islet,  steep-to,  lies  one-half  mile  from  the  coast. 
At  3  miles  S.  56°  E.  (S.  61°  E.  mag.)  are  the  Bolanderos  Islets, 
which  consist  of  one  large  islet,  with  several  small  ones  to  the 
southward  of  it,  all  of  them  clear  and  bold  and  not  farther 
than  three-fourths  mile  from  the  shore.  Tambor  Islet  lies  3 
miles  to  the  southward  and  eastward  and  rather  more  than 
one-half  mile  from  the  shore:  at  about  one-half  X.  28°  E.  (N. 
12312—03 G 


82  NOTES    Oisr    PANAMA. 

23°  E.  mag.)  of  it  a  rocky  shoal  shows  itself,  between  which 
and  the  islet  there  is  a  clear  passage;  it  is,  however,  always 
better  to  pass  outside.  To  the  westward  of  Tambor  Islet  the 
shore  forms  a  bay  named  Port  Escondido,  which  affords  shel- 
ter for  small  vessels.  The  Tumate  islets,  three  in  number, 
one-half  mile  from  the  coast,  are  4  miles  farther  on.  Four 
miles  from  the  Tumate  Islets  are  the  Tarena  Cays,  which  lie 
close  to  the  shore. 

"The  whole  of  the  coast  between  the  Tarena  Cays  and 
Cape  Tiburon  is  high,  bold,  and  clear  of  danger,  but  it  is 
very  wild  in  the  season  of  the  breezes.  At  this  period  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  gulf  should  be  kept  aboard,  where  good 
anchorage  will  be  found,  if  necessary,  and  a  smooth  sea  for 
working  to  windward. 

"At  2|  miles  southeastward  of  the  Tarena  Caj^s  the  shore 
takes  an  easterly  direction  for  6  miles  to  Revesa  Point,  form- 
ing the  northern  boundarj'  of  the  delta  of  the  Atrato.  The 
principal  mouth  of  the  river  opens  out  about  3  miles  to  the 
westward  of  the  point;  but  being  so  exposed  to  the  breezes, 
the  commerce  is  more  conveniently  carried  on  by  means  of 
the  little  Faisan  Branch,  which  has  the  advantage  of  the 
adjacent  anchorage  in  Candelaria  Bay. 

"The  sand  thrown  out  of  the  main  branch  is  deposited  at 
a  long  distance,  and  this  part  of  the  coast  should  not  be 
approached  nearer  than  2  miles. 

"  In  the  bight,  at  5  miles  west  of  Revesa  Point,  a  hill  named 
the  Peak  of  Tarena  rises  near  the  shore,  and  thence  a  lof  tj" 
ridge,  having  several  remarkable  peaks,  stretches  in  a  north- 
west direction  as  far  as  Cape  Tiburon ;  the  southernmost  is 
named  Candelaria,  the  center  one  Gandi,  and  the  northern- 
most Pico  de  Cabo.     The  latter  rises  beyond  Cape  Tiburon. 

"The  western  shore  of  the  gulf,  for  the  distance  of  about 
20  miles  from  its  head,  is  low,  swampy,  and  irregular,  being 
ormed  by  the  delta  of  the  Atrato  River,  which  enters  the 
gulf  by  numerous  branches,  eight  of  which  are  navigable  for 
canoes  and  bungos.  At  the  outermost  part  of  the  delta  the 
gulf  is  contracted  to  a  width  of  only  4  miles. 

"Atrato  River,  probablj^  the  fourth  largest  river  in  vol- 
ume in  South  America,  rises  in  a  spur  of  the  Antioquian 
Range  that  connects  the  latter  with  the  divide  or  Cordilleras 
of  Darien,  Flowing  on  a  course  generally  north  for  several 
hundred  miles,  it  emjities  through  thirteen  mouths  into  the 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  83 

Gulf  of  Darien.  It  has  numerous  tributaries  on  both  sides. 
This  river  was  surveyed  b}'  Commander  Lull,  U.  S.  Navy.,  for 
160  miles,  or  as  far  up  as  the  mouth  of  the  Bojaya.  Its  banks 
are  low,  and  for  the  whole  of  this  distance,  during  the  wet 
season,  are  overflowed  to  a  depth  of  3  or  4  feet,  from  which 
cause  all  the  houses  are  built  upon  piles.  Below  Sucio  there 
are  no  inhabitants  upon  the  banks,  as  they  are  submerged 
ten  months  of  the  yeav.  This  river  resembles  the  lower  Mis- 
sissippi in  grandeur  of  proportion,  with  its  long  reaches,  its 
width  varying  from  500  to  825  yards,  and  its  great  depth,  often 
exceeding  10  fathoms.  Its  current  varies  from  2  to  3  knots 
per  hour,  which  would  be  much  increased  in  the  rainy  season 
but  for  the  overflow  of  the  banks,  which  permits  an  escape  of 
the  surplus  water  by  spreading  for  miles  over  the  adjacent 
country. 

"The  surve}^  was  made  in  a  rowboat  floating  doAvn  with 
the  current,  and  nowhere  in  the  channel  were  found  less  than 
28  feet.  Over  the  whole  distance  surveyed  no  rocks  were 
found;  the  bottom  was  muddy,  and  the  river  unobstructed 
by  snags.  So  well'  defined  is  its  channel  and  so  free  from 
obstructions  that  a  single  passage  up  and  return  would  be 
sufficient  to  make  one  acquainted  with  the  navigation. 

"The  mouths  of  the  Atrato  are  obstructed  by  bars,  ui)on 
which  there  will  not  be  found  more  than  6  feet  of  water. 
They  differ  in  character,  however,  according  to  their  protec- 
tion from  the  sea.  The  Uraba  mouth,  being  farthest  from 
the  sea,  and  also  protected  by  a  long  sand  spit,  is  fixed  in  its 
nature,  and  the  bar  is  of  hard  sand.  These  bars,  as  thej^  in- 
crease by  fresh  deposits,  extend  out  and  break  off  abruptly 
from  2  to  10  fathoms. 

"The  extensive  delta  projects  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
mainland,  and  banks,  composed  of  a  deposit  of  the  softest 
ooze,  extend  about  a  mile  outside  the  bars,  exposed,  however, 
to  constant  changes,  especially  during  the  season  of  the 
breezes. 

"Revesa  Bay. — FromRevesaor  Choco  Point  to  the  north- 
west point  of  Candelaria  Bay  the  low  mangrove  shore 
trends  about  south  by  east  5  miles.  Revesa  Point,  pi'oject- 
ing  a  little  to  the  eastward,  affords  off  its  south  side  good 
anchorage  with  northerly  winds.  Vessels  entering  the  Revesa 
anchorage  may  pass  within  300  yards  of  that  point,  and  anchor 
as  soon  as  it  bears  eastward  of  north  in  13  or  11  fathoms. 


84  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

The  sand  bank  skirting- Candelaria  Bay  gradually  disappears 
as  Revesa  Point  is  approached. 

"Candelaria  Bay. — On  the  north  side  of  the  delta  of  the 
Atrato  there  is  a  bight  about  2|  miles  in  extent,  named  Can- 
delaria Bay.  The  land  around,  however,  is  so  low  that  the 
greater  part  is  inundated,  even  at  low  water;  and  it  is  bor- 
dered with  mangroves,  reeds,  and  rushes,  so  tliat  only  the 
northwest  part  of  the  bay  appears  dry.  A  sand  bank  skirts 
the  whole  circuit  of  thebaj^and  extends  a  mile  southeastward 
from  the  northwest  point,  which  reduces  the  entrance  between 
it  and  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Faisan  branch  of  the  Atrato  to 
scarcely  a  mile  in  breadth.  Off  the  mouth  of  the  Faisan,  and 
along  the  southeast  side  of  the  bay,  however,  the  bank  does 
not  reach  to  more  than  about  300  yards  from  the  shore,  leav- 
ing a  space  of  good  anchorage  about  1^  miles  in  extent. 

"The  bar  of  the  Little  Faisan  has  3  feet  of  water  upon  it, 
and  it  is  one  of  the  best  branches  by  which  canoes  enter  the 
Atrato. 

"Directions. — To  enter  Candelaria  Bay  great  attention 
is  required  to  the  soundings,  care  being  taken  not  to  shoal  in 
less  than  17  fathoms  in  the  entrance  nor  12  within.  This 
caution  is  absolutely  necessary,  for  the  sand  bank  that  skirts 
the  shore  is  so  steep  that  it  shoals  suddenly  from  13  to  5 
fathoms,  and  from  5  to  getting  aground.  Bj^  preserving  a 
proper  depth  a  vessel  will  pass  about  800  yards  off  the  south- 
east point,  and,  having  entered,  the  discolored  water  on  the 
edge  of  the  bank  may  be  seen  from  aloft. 

"Tides.— The  tide  in  the  Gulf  of  Darien  rises  2  feet. 

"The  eastern  shore. — From  the  head  of  the  Gulf  to 
TJraba  Point  the  eastern  shore  trends  nearly  north  29  miles, 
and  is  very  low  and  swampy,  the  only  remarkable  object 
being  the  little  hill  that  forms  Cayman  Point  9  miles  from 
Uraba  Point.  The  soundings  are  regular,  and  this  shore 
may  be  easily  navigated  with  proper  attention  to  the  lead. 
The  head  of  the  Gulf  is  about  10  miles  in  breadth,  and  the 
Suriquilla  River  flows  into  the  middle  of  it. 

"From  Uraba  Point  the  shore,  which  is  low,  with  a  few 
small  hillocks,  trends  about  north-northwest  for  6  miles  to 
the  Salado  River,  and  thence  for  about  5^  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction  to  Arenas  Point,  a  low,  sandy  peninsula,  bold  and 
steep-to. 


W.  T.  CONWAY 

l8t  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 

NOTES    cm    PANAMA,  85 

"  From  Arenas  Point  the  shore  trends  to  the  northward  for 
about  3  miles,  when  it  bends  abruptly  to  the  northeastward 
to  Caribana  Point,  the  north  point  of  the  low,  sandy  penin- 
sula, about  2^  miles  in  breadth  at  the  extremity  from  north  to 
south.  The  west  face  of  this  peninsula  is  bold  and  steep-to, 
and  may  be  safely  coasted  at  the  distance  of  a  mile.  The 
interior  is  occupied  by  the  Aguila  Lagoon,  about  5^  miles  in 
extent  from  east  to  west,  in  which  are  many  mangrove  cays. 

"  Caribana  Point  is  low  and  wooded.  At  a  short  distance 
within  the  point  is  Cerro  Aguila,  and,  although  of  only  mod- 
erate height,  it  is  remarkable  from  standing  alone  in  the  mid- 
dle of  lowland,  and  is  a  useful  guide." — Hydrograpltic  Office, 
Gulf  of  Mexico  and  Caribhean  Sea,  No.  fU. 

DESCRIPTION   OF  THE  PACIFIC   COAST. 

"  Coast. — Between  Buriea  Point  and  the  southwest  extrem- 
ity of  Parida  Island,  32  miles  N.  85°  E.  of  the  point,  the  coast 
recedes  17  miles  in  a  gradual  curve,  forming  a  large  bay,  within 
which  are  no  known  dangers.  On  the  northern  shore,  which 
is  low  and  wooded,  are  the  small  rivers  Bartolome,  Pinos,  an 
Piedra,  but  no  port  or  place  of  resort.  The  western  shore 
is  higher  and  deep  water  api)roaches  nearer  to  it.  The  oper. 
anchorage  along  the  coast  is  considered  in  general  safe. 

"The  delta  of  the  David  River  lies  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  bay  north  of  Parida  Island  and  is  formed  by  numerous 
low  islands  fronting  the  coast  for  a  distance  of  17  miles,  from 
the  Boca  San  Pedro  on  the  west  to  Boca  Chica  on  the  east, 
covered  by  extensive  shoals  with  heavy  breakers.  Within 
the  islands  the  low  coast  is  a  labyrinth  of  small  streams  and 
osteros. 

"Boca  San  Pedro,  about  30  miles  N.  G0°  E.  from  Buriea 
Point,  between  the  large  islands  San  Pedro  and  Sevilla,  is  the 
westernmost  and  main  entrance  to  the  David  River  and  the 
shortest  approach  to  the  city  of  that  name.  The  original  sur- 
veyors, both  British  and  French,  regarded  this  entrance  as 
impracticable  for  vessels  and  even  for  boats,  although  used 
by  the  native  fishermen,  and  considered  the  Boca  Chica,  with 
the  connecting  25  miles  of  intricate  navigation,  the  only  prac- 
ticable approach  to  the  river  and  city  of  David. 

"A  sketch  survey  made  in  1900  by  Mr.  J.  A.  Rupert  Jones, 
of  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company,  and  now  incorpo- 
rated on  the  latest  charts  of  the  locality,  shows  a  close  line  of 


86  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

soundings  across  the  bar  in  a  comparatively  straight  course, 
with  a  least  depth  of  4  fathoms,  to  an  anchorage  in  44^  fathoms 
about  three-fourths  mile  northward  of  San  Pedro  Point, . 
the  southeast  end  of  San  Pedro  Island.  The  channel  is  dan- 
gerous with  a  heavy  southwest  swell,  and  the  banks  border- 
ing the  channel  on  the  eastern  side  within  the  bar  and  oppo- 
site San  Pedro  Island  are  extending  westward;  the  present 
width  of  the  channel  abreast  of  San  Pedro  Point,  which  it 
closely  skirts,  is  about  700  yards,  the  width  of  the  opening 
between  San  Pedro  Point  and  Powis  Point,  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  Sevilla  Island,  being  nearly  2^  miles.  On  San 
Pedro  bank,  which  forms  the  west  side  of  the  channel,  the  sea 
breaks  heavily,  and  along  the  edge  of  the  bank  incessantly. 

"  The  German  bark  Theodore,  of  680  tons,  registered,  crossed 
the  bar  of  the  Boca  San  Pedro  February  2,  1892,  and  lay  at 
the  anchorage  above  San  Pedro  Point  until  March  24,  when, 
having  loaded  a  cargo  of  brazil  wood,  she  passed  out ,  drawing 
15  feet,  being  the  first  large  vessel  to  visit  the  port.  Captain 
Saunders  of  the  steamer  Elvira,  of  200  tons,  on  whose  recom- 
mendation the  Theodore  was  chartered  and  who  towed  the 
vessel  into  and  out  of  the  harbor,  appears  to  have  been  the 
first  to  discover  a  navigable  channel  across  the  bar  and  the 
first  to  make  general  use  of  it.  At  the  time  of  the  Theodore's 
visit  the  coasting  steamers  calling  at  David,  although  with 
Punta  Arenas  as  a  farther  destination,  made  the  long  circuit 
by  the  Boca  Chica. 

"Anchorage. — There  is  good  anchorage  off  the  entrance 
to  the  channel  in  13  fathoms  with  the  southeast  end  of  San 
Pedro  Island  bearing  N.  29°  E.  (N.  23°  E.  mag.)  and  distant 
3|  miles.  The  water  shoals  gradually  shoreward,  and  a  mile 
farther  in  on  this  bearing  there  are  8  fathoms.  From  the 
anchorage  here  given,  to  enter  the  port  the  course  is  first  N. 
12°  E.  (N.  6°  E.  mag.)  for  U  miles,  then  N.  57°  E.  (N.  51°  E. 
mag.)  li  miles,  then  N.  17°  E.  (N.  11°  E.  mag.)  l\  miles  to 
the  inner  anchorage,  the  last  course  for  half  the  distance 
skirting  the  east  side  of  San  Pedro  Isl  ind  at  about  200  yards. 

"Caution. — On  account  of  the  liability  to  frequent  and 
sudden  changes  of  all  open  sea  bars,  it  would  manifestly  be 
imprudent  to  use  this  channel  without  a  pilot  or  prior  inves- 
tigation by  boat. 

"  CiUDAD  DE  David,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Chiriqui, 
with  9,000  to  10,000  inhabitants,  lies  about  10  miles  north  of 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  87 

San  Pedro  Island  and  tlie  river  mouth  and  about  2^  miles 
from  Pedregal,  a  small  village  on  the  right  bank  of  the  west- 
ern branch  of  the  river.  From  the  anchorage  within  San 
Pedro  Point  a  least  depth  of  three-fourths  fathom  can  be 
carried  10|  miles  to  Pedregal  and  a  couple  of  miles  beyond, 
the  snuiU  coasting  steamers  of  200  tons  ascending  to  the  vil- 
lage, whence  a  road  leads  across  a  treeless  grassy  plain  to  the 
city.  This  plain  gives  good  pasturage  to  many  horses  and 
cows.  On  nearing  the  city  the  character  of  the  country 
changes  and  hills  occur;  the  ground  is  more  or  less  cultivated 
and  is  divided  up  by  fences.  Nothing,  however,  appears  of 
the  town  until  the  first  houses  are  reached.  It  does  not  pre- 
sent a  striking  appearance,  consisting  for  the  most  part  of 
bamboo  huts  and  wooden  houses  with  thatched  roofs  and  clay 
floors.  Nevertheless,  there  are  many  well  furnished  stores  in 
which  can  be  bought  at  a  reasonable  price  all  that  one  may 
wish.  There  were  at  the  time  of  the  Theodore's  visit  but  few 
foreigners  settled  in  David,  among  them  being  a  German 
ph3'sician,  here  stranded,  and  a  few  Italian  laborers. 

"Supplies. — Meat,  poultry,  eggs,  rice,  yams,  and  fruit  are 
abundant  and  cheap.  The  price  of  a  live  ox  is  $12  to  $14. 
Only  flour  is  dear.  Good  drinking  water  can  be  obtained 
from  the  river  at  the  junction  of  the  eastern  and  the  western 
branch,  above  the  Hacienda  Pino. 

"Sevilla  and  San  Pedro  islands  abound  in  game,  which  is 
easily  obtainable.  The  latter  island  is  a  private  possession 
and  consists  of  open  grass  fields  and  dark  forests,  giving  sup- 
port to  some  hundreds  of  cattle  and  numerous  horses  and 
swine.  Of  human  dwellers  there  are  here  only  the  so-called 
matador,  who  has  the  supervision  of  the  cattle,  and  a  few 
nomadic  Indian  fisher  people.  The  soil,  though  fruitful,  is 
not  cultivated. 

"Climate. — The  climate,  in  the  dry  season  at  least,  was 
considered  by  the  captain  of  the  Theodore  to  be  not  un- 
healthy. During  the  seven  weeks  of  the  Theodore'' s  stay 
at  San  Pedro,  February  2  to  March  25,  there  was  not  a 
single  case  of  sickness  on  board,  although  the  days  were  hot 
and  all  the  work  of  discharging  ballast  and  taking  in  and 
stowing  the  cargo  of  brazil  wood  was  done  bj^  the  men.  The 
nights  were  always  agreeably  cool  and  there  were  no  mos- 
quitoes. 

"Parida  Island  is  of  irregular  shape,  about  4  miles  long 


88  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

NNE.  and  SSW.,  and  2  miles  wide  in  its  widest  part.  It  is 
well  wooded,  but  not  high,  and  has  rivulets  affording  abun- 
dance of  water.  Numerous  islets  with  many  sunken  reefs 
among  them  lie  off  the  east  and  southeast  sides  of  the  island 
to  a  distance  of  5  miles,  all  of  them  being  apparently  within 
the  line  of  10  or  12  fathoms.  Bolano  and  Baraco,  the  largest 
of  these  islets,  terminate  the  group,  lying  about  4^  miles  east 
of  the  south  end  of  Parida.  The  chart  shows  at  2  miles  east- 
ward of  them  several  rocks  awash,  and  at  about  three- fourths 
mile  southward  of  Baraco  several  rocks  under  water.  Close 
to  both  groups  are  soundings  of  12  fathoms.  Channels  doubt- 
less exist  among  the  islets  and  reefs,  but  vessels  must  keep 
outside  of  them,  as  they  have  not  been  closely  examined, 
and  in  approaching  David  Bay  from  the  southwestward  give 
the  whole  locality  a  good  berth. 

"Parida  •anchorage, — The  only  anchorage  is  at  the 
northeast  end  of  the  island,  in  6|  fathoms,  sheltered  from 
the  southward  by  the  long,  low  island  Gami.  Here  there  is  a 
sandy  beach  for  landing  and  abundance  of  good  water.  To 
reach  this  anchorage  from  the  eastward  from  a  position  west 
of  Widow  Rock  steer  for  the  San  Jose  islands,  and  then, 
leaving  these  islands  to  the  northward,  steer  for  the  north 
end  of  Parida,  maintaining  a  depth  of  7  to  6  fathoms,  but 
decreasing  to  3^  fathoms  as  the  anchorage  is  approached, 
when  it  deepens  again  to  6i  fathoms  at  the  anchorage,  close 
to  the  shore. 

*'A  narrow  channel  with  8  to  3|  fathoms  of  water  leads  sea- 
ward close  around  the  north  end  of  the  island. 

"Boca  Brava,  between  Sevilla  and  Brava  islands,  lies  5| 
miles  north  of  the  north  end  of  Parida,  from  which  a  chan- 
nel leads  through  the  shoals  in  almost  a  straight  course  with 
a  least  depth  of  3  fathoms,  deepening  between  the  islands 
to  6  fathoms,  and  within  to  9  fathoms.  There  is  no  informa- 
tion as  to  this  channel  being  used  to  reach  an  anchorage 
within  the  islands  or  to  communicate  with  David,  although 
as  the  entrance  is  exactly  marked  by  the  north  i3oint  of  Par- 
ida and  the  channel  more  sheltered  than  that  of  Han  Pedro 
and  deeper  than  the  Boca  Chica  it  would  appear  to  have  at 
times  decided  advantages. 

"C'HIMMO  Bay,  at  the  southwest  end  of  Parida  Island,  is 
small,  with  depths  of  10  to  2^  fathoms.  The  Santa  Cruz  Islet 
fronts  the  bay,  and  the  j^assage  in  is  north  of  the  islet,  some 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  89 

rocks  extend iug-  southward  from  it  to  the  shore.  A  reef  also 
runs  southward  a  short  distance  from  some  islets  on  the  north 
side  of  the  bay.  Good  fresh  water  maj^  be  obtained  in  the 
northeast  part  of  the  bay. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  in  Chimnio  Bay  is 
at  oh,  lorn. ;  rise  of  tide,  104  feet, 

"Caution. — The  southwest  point  of  Parida  Island  should 
be  given  a  berth  of  about  a  mile  on  account  of  some  sunken 
rocks  one-half  mile  from  it,  with  depths  of  15  and  16  fathoms 
close  to  them. 

"Grono  Rock,  with  a  depth  of  G  feet  over  it  and  30  fath- 
oms close  to,  has  been  reported  to  exist  3^  miles  S.  37°  W, 
(S.  31°  \V.  mag.)  from  Santa  Cruz  Point.  Breakers  were 
seen  in  this  locality  by  the  master  of  the  steamship  Casma, 
who  was  informed  by  a  diver  engaged  in  the  pearl  fishery  of 
the  existence  of  the  rock,  with  particulars  as  above.  It  has 
been  entered  on  the  chart  as  doubtful  in  position. 

"David  Bay,  as  named  by  the  original  surveyors,  lies 
between  Parida  Island  and  El  Juco  Point,  11  miles  N.  67°  E, 
of  the  SE.  part  of  the  island,  the  name  being  also  given  on 
the  present  chart  to  the  great  bay  west  of  the  island.  In  it 
are  numerous  islands  and  rocks,  but  with  the  assistance  of 
the  chart  little  diflBculty  should  be  experienced  in  selecting 
an  anchorage. 

"  The  Monitas  are  two  islets  on  a  reef  lying  about  a  mile 
nearly  south  of  Juco  Point,  The  western  islet  closely  resem- 
bles a  saddle.  The  channel  between  the  Monitas  and  Juco 
Point  is  considered  unsafe  on  account  of  the  currents  in  it, 
although  the  depth  is  from  7  to  8  fathoms;  hence  vessels 
making  for  Palenque  anchorage  generally  pass  to  the  south- 
ward of  these  islands, 

"ViUDA  OR  Widow  Rock,  lying  2f  miles  S.  11°  E.  of  the 
western  Monita,  is  an  isolated  rock  with  a  reef  extending 
from  it  one-lialf  mile  in  a  direction  S.  69°  E.  At  low  water 
four  pinnacles  are  uncovered,  but  at  high  water  only  one  is 
visible.  As  this  rock  and  reef  are  both  steep,  with  soundings 
close  around  them  of  10  to  12  fathoms,  great  care  is  required 
in  avoiding  them.  It  is  said  that  to  vessels  approaching 
David  Bay  from  the  southward  the  position  of  the  Viuda  may 
generally  be  known  bjMjreakers,  but  whetlier  this  be  the  case 
or  hot,  lying  in  the  fair  way  of  vessels  and  so  far  from  the 
shore,  it  is  a  very  formidable  danger. 


90  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

' '  A  sunken  rock,  the  existence  of  which  there  is  great  rea- 
son to  doubt,  was  many  j^ears  ago  reported  at  about  4  miles 
SSE.  mag.  from  the  Viuda.  The  French  surveying  vessel 
Obligado  searched  for  it  unsuccessfully,  although  assisted  in 
the  search  by  a  native  who  stated  that  he  had  seen  breakers 
upon  it;  it  was  said  to  show  but  very  rarely.  The  difficulty 
of  finding  an  isolated  sunken  rock  in  deep  water  is  well 
known;  hence  it  will  be  prudent  to  exercise  more  than  ordi- 
nary vigilance  when  in  the  vicinity  of  this  reported  danger, 
especially  as  no  soundings  are  recorded  about  the  site. 

"El  Buey,  a  dangerous  rock  of  small  extent  in  the  middle 
of  David  Bay,  with  soundings  of  5  to  7  fathoms  close  to  it, 
onlj^  uncovers  at  half  tide,  not  showing  at  all  in  fine  weather 
at  high  tide.  No  well-defined  landmarks  can  be  given  for 
this  danger,  but  it  lies  l\  miles  X.  49°  E.  from  the  summit  of 
the  highest  San  Jose  islet  and  3  miles  N.  78°  W.  from  the 
western  Monita.  The  chart  shows  the  rock  to  be  on  the  range 
of  the  southeast  extremity  of  the  San  Jose  group,  the  south- 
ernmost of  the  Linartes,  and  the  NW.  tangent  of  Bolano. 

"San  Jose  islets  are  a  group  of  four  wooded  islets  united 
by  a  reef.  They  are  safe  of  approach  except  that  the  reef 
projects  from  them  one-fourth  mile  to  the  eastward,  and  a 
2-fathom  spot  lies  three-fourths  mile  to  the  westward.  Mid- 
way between  San  Jose  and  Bolano  islands  is  a  cluster  of 
islands  named  Linartes. 

"  Palenque  Island,  of  irregular  shape,  256  feet  high  and 
about  li  miles  in  extent,  lies  on  the  south  side  of  Brava;  Deer 
Islet,  on  which  was  the  observation  spot  of  the  survey,  lies 
off  the  southeast  point  of  Palenque.  The  shoal  water  which 
limits  the  bay  trends  about  NE.  by  N.  and  SW.  by  W.  from 
Deer  Islet. 

"  Playa  Grande  Bay,  lying  north  of  Juco  Point  and  the 
chain  of  islands  extending  from  the  point  to  the  Boca  Chica, 
has  many  sunken  reefs  in  it  and  has  not  been  closely  exam- 
ined. The  passage  south  of  Carre  Island  into  the  bay,  nearly 
a  mile  wide,  has  6  fathoms  of  water,  and  this  depth  is  carried 
about  three-fourths  mile  inside,  gradually  decreasing  to  3 
fathoms  at  about  700  yards  from  the  eastern  end  of  the  bay, 
where  there  is  excellent  shelter  for  a  small  vessel.  Chuche- 
gal  Bay  opens  from  the  northeastern  part  of  Playa  Grande 
and  extends  about  1^  miles  northeastward,  to  the  base  of  Red 
Hill,  but  has  not  been  sounded  out  or  closely  examined.     The 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  91 

country  behind  the  bay  affords  abundant  pasturage  for  large 
herds  of  cattle. 

"Boca  Chic  a,  3^  miles  N.  65°  W.  of  .Juco  Point,  the  nar-  ' 
row  channel  between  Ventana  and  Saino  islands  leading  into 
the  David  River,  is  practicable  for  only  light-draft  vessels, 
there  being  in  some  parts  of  it  at  low  tide  only  8  to  10  feet  of 
water.  Boca  Chica  may  be  recognized  by  the  rocks  of  Ven- 
tana Island,  which  have  been  pierced  by  the  sea.  Lavandera 
Rock,  an  isolated  danger,  covered  at  high  water,  lying  on  the 
east  side  of  the  entrance  300  yards  southward  of  Saino,  must 
be  carefully  guarded  against,  there  being  a  depth  of  5  fath- 
oms close  to  it  on  the  south  side.  Within  the  entrance,  at 
the  east  end  of  Brava  Island,  the  channel  expands  and  forms 
and  anchorage  called  El  Pozo  (the  well)  with  a  depth  of  6 
fathoms.  The  village  of  San  Lorenzo  is  partly  in  sight  at 
the  western  end,  consisting  of  about  a  score  of  huts  in  the 
midst  of  orange  and  banana  trees. 

"Anchorage. — During  the  fine  season  there  is  good  anchor- 
age off  the  Boca  Chica  in  5  fathoms,  sheltered  from  the  north- 
erly winds  which  have  then  considerable  strength.  When 
the  southwest  winds  prevail  it  is  better  to  anchor  farther  out 
under  shelter  of  the  San  Jose  islets. 

"A  more  open  anchorage,  suitable  for  large  vessels,  is  in  8 
fathoms  midway  between  San  .Jose  islets  and  the  Monitas. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  at  Palenque  and 
Parida  anchorages  is  at  3h.  15m.;  springs  rise  lOf  feet,  neaps 
8  feet.  During  the  OhJigado's  visit  the  flood  stream  at  the 
anchorage  outside  the  Boca  Chica  was  observed  to  set  NNW., 
and  the  ebb  in  the  opposite  direction,  with  an  average  strength 
of  1  mile  an  hour,  diminishing  in  force  toward  the  San  Jose 
and  Monitas  islands.  Within  the  entrance  and  in  the  river 
the  current  was  much  stronger. 

"Supplies. — At  the  village  of  Boca  Chica  or  Puerto  San 
Lorenzo,  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  and  3|  miles  from  the 
sea,  cattle,  poultry,  eggs,  fruit,  and  vegetables  can  be  pro- 
cured. Water  of  good  quality  can  be  got  from  the  stream 
immediately  east  of  the  village. 

"Directions. — Vessels  from  the  westward  or  southward 
should  pass  between  the  Viuda  and  the  rocks  east  of  BoLano, 
and  if  from  the  eastward,  between  the  Viuda  and  the  Moni- 
tas, in  either  case  steering  for  the  San  Jose  islets  on  a  safe 
bearing  until  well  past  Viuda.     If  intending  to  anchor  off 


92  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Boca  Chica,  when  west  of  Viuda  steer  for  Carre  Islet,  and 
when  one-lialf  mile  from  its  south  point  continue  along  the 
south  side  of  the  chain  of  islets  to  the  anchorage. 

"The  Ladrones  are  two  rocky,  barren  islets  of  moderate 
height,  and  together  not  more  than  a  mile  in  extent,  lying  14 
miles  S.  20°  W.  (S.  14°  W.  mag.)  of  the  southwest  point  of 
Parida.  They  are  ver^^  steep-to,  with  70  fathoms  close  to 
their  southern  edge.  The  only  known  dangers  are  some 
rocks  extending  from  them  to  the  northward  about  2  miles, 
and  a  very  dangerous  reef  at  4  miles  in  the  same  direction 
with  only  G  feet  of  water  over  it  at  low  tide.  As  this  reef  is 
only  shown  by  breakers  when  there  is  a  stiff  breeze,  it  must 
be  carefully  guarded  against. 

"MONTUOSA  ISLET,«  lying  27  miles  S.  25°  E.  (S.  31°  E.  mag.) 
from  the  Ladrones  and  22  miles  west  of  Coiba  Island,  the 
nearest  land,  rises  to  a  height  of  500  feet  and  has  its  summit 
covered  with  cocoa  and  other  trees.  A  narrow  reef,  partlj* 
above  water,  extends  from  it  about  3  miles  in  a  westerly 
direction,  and  a  reef  also  runs  off  from  its  southeast  side. 
Captain  Colnett  landed  here  in  1794  and  obtained  a  quantity 
of  cocoanuts  and  a  few  birds.  lie  mentions  that  the  bottom 
on  the  south  side  of  the  island  and  also  the  shore  near  the 
sea  is  rock3^  A  sandy  beach  was  found  behind  some  little 
creeks  that  run  in  between  the  rocks,  which  afforded  a  safe 
landing  place  for  boats.  There  was  a  great  plenty  of  par- 
rots, doves,  and  iguanas,  and  probablj^  other  refreshment. 

"Secas  Islands  are  a  group  consisting  of  three  principal 
islands  and  numerous  islets  and  rocks,  covering  an  extent  of 
5|  miles  in  latitute  by  3  miles  in  longitude,  and  lying  about 
15  miles  from  the  coast  between  David  Bay  and  Port  Nuevo. 
About  and  among  them  are  no  known  sunken  rocks  the  posi- 
tions of  which  are  not  usually  indicated  hj  breakers.  Small 
vessels  may  find  good  shelter  here,  and  on  some  of  the  islands 
a  landing  may  be  effected;  but  no  fresh  water  can  be  ob- 
tained. The  best  anchorage  is  stated  to  be  in  10  to  12  fath- 
oms, on  sand. 

«The  center  of  Montuosa  Islet,  as  cut  in  February  5,  1902,  by  the 
U.  S.  S.  Concord  from  nimierons  positions  of  the  ship  obtained  each 
time  by  not  less  than  three  cross  bearings  of  Jicarita,  Qnibo,  and  the 
Ladrones  Islands  was  found  to  be  about  2^  miles  N.  44°  E.  (N.  38°  E. 
mag.)  of  the  charted  position,  approximately  in  latitude  7"  29'  N., 
longitude  82    13'  30  "  W. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  93 

"La  Bruja  Rock,  about  3  miles  east  of  the  north  end  of  the 
largest  island,  is  a  formidable  danger,  especiallj^  at  night.  It 
is  stated  by  some  authorities  to  be  almost  awash  at  low  water 
and  b3'  others  to  be  awash  at  high  water,  and  is  surrounded 
by  depths  of  20  to  24  fathoms. 

"CONTRERAS  ISLANDS,  a  group  about  14  miles  southeastward 
of  the  Seeas  and  !)|  miles  north  of  Coiba,  composed  of  two 
principal  islands  with  many  small  islets  and  rocks,  are  unin- 
habited and  have  no  good  anchorage.  Vessels  maj' approach 
these  islands  without  hesitation  if  due  precaution  be  taken, 
as  the  depths  near  them  are  from  oO  to  40  fathoms  and  it  is 
believed  that  there  are  no  sunken  dangers  among  them  that 
are  not  marked  bj^  breakers. 

"Prosper  Rock,  so  named  from  the  wreck  of  Le  Prospere, 
a  French  ship  that  was  drifted  onto  it  in  a  calm,  lies  about 
1\  miles  south  of  the  southern  island  and  has  the  appearance 
of  a  black  tower.  A  reef  which  uncovers  at  low  water  of 
spring  tides  extends  from  it  about  200  yards  in  a  south- 
Avesterly  direction.  It  is  not  safe  to  pass  between  Prosper 
Rock  and  the  islands  on  account  of  a  reef  midway  in  the 
channel,  which  is  partly  dr}^  at  low  water. 

"Coast. — At  14^  miles  east  of  Juco  Point  the  coast  turns 
northward  for  3|  miles  to  the  mouth  of  San  Lorenzo  River, 
and  thence  trends  S.  77°  E.  for  20  miles  to  Espartal  Island, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  Pueblo  Xuevo.  Nearly  all  this 
shore  is  low  and  fronted  hy  a  sandy  strand;  the  entrances  of 
the  various  rivers  are  barred  and  can  usually  be  recognized 
by  the  white  trunks  of  the  mangrove  trees,  the  toj)s  only 
being  in  leaf.  About  a  dozen  miles  inland  is  a  range  of  hills 
between  which  and  the  sea  is  a  wooded  plain. 

"There  ai-e  no  known  sunken  dangers  along  this  coast, 
and  vessels  may  skirt  it  at  a  distance  of  2  to  3  miles  in  sound- 
ings of  6  to  11  fathoms.  Some  cliffs  of  red  color  eastward  of 
San  Lorenzo  River  and  ending  at  about  13  miles  from  Pueblo 
Nuevo  are  ver}^  conspicuous. 

"  Venado  Islands,  on  the  east  side  of  Juco  Point,  consist- 
ing of  one  large  island  near  the  point  and  three  small  ones 
on  a  bank  about  a  mile  to  the  eastward,  are  said  to  be  a  good 
mark  for  vessels  approaching  from  the  eastward. 

"  San  Lorenzo  Bay,  formed  by  the  bend  in  the  coast  east 
of  Juco  Point,  is  so  thickly  strewn  with  rocks  that  all  vessels 
should  avoid  entering  it,  and  for  the  same  reason  the  river 


94  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

can  be  approached  only  in  boats.  A  considerable  village  lies 
on  the  San  Lorenzo  River,  a  few  miles  from  the  sea. 

"Port  Nuevo  lies  just  within  the  southern  mouth  of  the 
Pueblo  Nuevo  River,  now  charted  as  Rio  San  Lucia,  or 
Remedios.  The  entrance,  which  is  south  of  Silva  and  Inso- 
lita  islands,  from  whatever  direction  approached  may  be  at 
once  recognized  bj*  the  peculiar  formation  of  the  Cayado 
Hills,  which  rise  to  heights  of  300  and  400  feet  from  the  nar- 
row peninsula  forming  the  south  side  of  the  port,  and  from  a 
distance  appear  as  two  islets.  Sugarloaf  Hill,  540  feet  high, 
standing  close  to  the  shore  near  Espartal  Island,  is  a  good 
mark  for  the  port,  as  are  also  the  two  wooded  islets,  Silva  de 
Tierra  and  Silva  de  Af uera,  distant,  respectively,  1^  and  4^ 
miles  westward  from  Entrada  Point. 

"  Espartal  and  Insolita,  two  large  marsh}^  mangrove  islands 
made  of  the  soil  brought  down  by  the  floods,  front  the  coast 
for  a  distance  of  7  miles,  forming  the  river  delta.  The  Boca 
de  Santiago,  between  the  two  islands,  although  the  direct 
entrance  to  the  river,  is  navigable  onlj^  by  boats  and  at  high 
tide,  being  obstructed  by  shoals  through  which,  in  1899,  there 
was  no  channel;  the  narrow  passage  north  of  Espartal  is  also 
unnavigable. 

"From  Aguda  Point,  the  south  end  of  Insolita,  the  Belitre 
Bank,  partially  dry  at  low  water,  extends  H  utiles  westward 
along  the  north  side  of  the  channel,  ending  opposite  Entrada 
Point,  and  forms  a  natural  breakwater  for  the  port.  The 
rock}^  islet  Intrusa,  steep  and  safe  of  approach  on  all  sides, 
lies  nearly  in  mid-channel  between  Aguda  Point  and  the 
south  shore.  Robalo  Island,  three-fourths  mile  northeast- 
ward of  Aguda  Point,  is  about  three-eightlis  mile  in  extent, 
with  a  channel  on  either  side,  a  mud  bank  extending  from  it 
about  the  same  distance  to  the  southward.  Numerous  rocks 
are  reported  in  the  eastern  channel,  that  on  the  Insolita  side, 
though  narrower,  being  the  one  recommended  for  use. 

"Opposite  the  north  end  of  Robalo  is  Dedo  Point,  from 
which  the  three  remarkable  Dedo  (finger)  hills,  about  1,500 
feet  high,  extend  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  tiie  line  of  the 
hills  passing  through  Entrada  Point,  Herron  Islet  lies  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  river,  opposite  the  south  end  of  Robalo 
and  three-eighths  mile  above  La  Tinta  Cove.  The  south 
and  east  shores  of  the  port  are  bordered  by  shoal  water 
to  a  distance  of  one-fourth  mile.     Point  Arenitas  is  at  the 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  95 

north  end  of  Insolita,  and  1:^  miles  above  is  Rocky  Point, 
which  marks  the  real  mouth  of  the  river.  Just  within  the 
rivers  Jacobe  and  Santiago  enter  the  San  Lucia  from  the 
eastward. 

"The  bay  is  inliabited  by  a  few  Indians  in  ranchos  or  huts 
scattered  along  the  beach,  and  there  are  said  to  be  a  number 
of  small  villages  on  tlie  numerous  streams  that  fall  into  the 
river,  but  by  far  the  largest  is  that  which  gives  to  the  river 
its  name.  San  Juan  Enfrente,  a  cattle  corral  and  clearing, 
is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  San  Lucia,  2^  miles  above  Rocky 
Point. 

"Some  eggs,  fowl,  vegetables,  and  fruit  may  be  obtained. 
Belcher  states  that  water  can  not  be  procured  in  any  quantity, 
but  Captain  de  Rosencoat,  of  the  Obligado,  says  that  good 
water  may  be  procured  from  a  brook  which  falls  into  the 
small  bay  on  the  east  side  of  Cape  Cayado  (Entrada  Point). 

"The  Channel,  according  to  the  survey  of  1854,  supple- 
mented by  an  examination  in  1900  by  Mr.  J.  A.  Rupert  Jones, 
of  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company,  carries  a  low- water 
depth  of  6  to  8  fathoms  as  far  as  Intrusa  Islet,  the  width  north 
of  Entrada  Point  being  about  400  yards  and  increasing  within 
to  about  750  yards  near  the  islet.  Farther  in  the  depth  is 
quite  irregular,  but  4  fathoms  at  low  water  may  be  carried 
more  than  a  mile,  prol)ably  3  fathoms  to  Rocky  Point,  north 
of  Insolita,  and  1  fathom  a  considerable  distance  farther  up 
the  San  Lucia. 

"The  anchorage  selected  l)y  the  French  surveying  vessel 
Obligado  in  1854  was  immediately  southward  of  Intrusa, 
with  the  islet  in  range  with  the  south  end  of  Insolita.  East- 
ward of  this  the  channel  expands  considerably,  but  there  are 
several  isolated  shoal  spots,  2^  and  3  fathoms,  restricting  the 
anchorage  space  and  making  it  inconvenient  for  large  ves- 
sels. To  a  draft  of  less  than  IG  feet  it  offers  the  advantage 
of  ample  space,  with  protection  from  all  winds.  A  few  small 
buoys  to  mark  the  shoal  spots  and  the  ends  of  the  shoals 
would  greatly  increase  its  usefulness  for  large  vessels.  Excel- 
lent ranges  are  afforded  by  Intrusa  Islet  with  Entrada  Point 
and  the  two  Silvas. 

"Westerly  winds,  frequent  from  June  to  October,  are  said 
by  the  inhabitants  to  send  occasionally  into  the  river  a  very 
heavy  sea,  which  causes  considerable  inconvenience  to  ves- 
sels anchored  near  Intrusa.  At  such  times  it  will  be  advis- 
able to  run  to  the  inner  anchorage. 


96  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"Tides. — Higli  water,  full  and  change,  at  Port  Nuevo  is 
at  3  h.  44  m.,  rise  of  tide  about  10  feet;  at  San  Juan  Enf rente 
at  4  h.  30  m. ;  rise  12  to  16  feet. 

"Pueblo  Nuevo  Village,  now  Los  Remedios,  is  said  to 
be  at  some  distance  within  the  river,  north  of  Insolita  Island, 
and  the  passage  up  to  it  so  intricate  that  it  can  only  be  found 
by  native  guidance.  Provisions  are  said  to  be  obtainable 
here  in  considerable  quantities.  The  principal  article  of 
trade  is  the  sarsaparilla,  that  of  this  neighborhood  being 
esteemed  of  a  superior  quality.  A  venomous  species  of  ser- 
pent, the  bite  of  which  is  fatal,  is  numerous  on  the  mainland 
and  on  the  islands. 

"Directions. — To  cany  6  fathoms,  the  best  water,  into 
the  port?  the  entrance  should  be  approached  on  a  north  course, 
,  keeping  from  one-fourth  to  one-half  mile  from  the  shore  just 
below  Entrada  Point,  in  order  to  avoid  the  shoal  water  west- 
ward of  the  point  and  the  bank  with  4  to  5  fathoms  extend- 
ing southeastward  from  Silva  de  Tierra.  When  lutrusa  Islet 
Oldens  from  the  point,  steer  for  the  islet,  passing  close  to  the 
point,  and  Avlien  within  steer  to  pass  southward  of  Intrusa  to 
the  inner  anchorage,  or  anchor  in  9  fathoms,  fine  sand}'  bot- 
tom, on  the  range  of  lutrusa  and  Aguda  Point.  Entrada 
Point,  in  line  with  the  north  end  of  Silva  de  Afuera,  leads 
through  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel  between  Belitre 
Bank  and  the  shoal  water  to  the  southward. 

"  From  Aguda  Point  about  a  mid-channel  course  leads  up 
the  river  as  far  as  Rocky  Point,  above  which  the  channel 
passes  between  wide  shoal  banks  on  either  hand  and  ascends 
the  western  stream. 

"The  best  time  to  enter  the  river  is  with  the  flood  stream 
and  the  wind  from  seaward ;  and  to  leave  the  river,  witli  the 
land  wind  and  a  little  before  the  end  of  the  flood.  Vessels 
must  pass  south  of  Silva  de  Tierra,  but  may  pass  between  the 
two  Silvas,  the  depth  here  being  from  8  to  12  fathoms.  By 
entering  at  the  first  of  the  flood  the  edges  of  the  banks  are 
plainly  seen. 

"Coast. — From  Port  Nuevo  the  coast  has  a  general  trend 
of  S.  30°  E.  for  23  miles  to  the  entrance  of  Baliia  Honda  and 
is  quite  irregular  in  outline,  being  intersected  by  several 
rivers  and  indented  bj^  a  number  of  small  bays,  of  which  the 
principal  are  Pajaros,  Rosario,  and  Monita,  all  of  them  open 
and  exposed  to  winds  from  the  westward.     About  3f  miles 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  97 

southward  of  Entrada  Point  is  the  Tavasera  River,  which  has 
no  bar  at  its  mouth,  a  channel  with  from  2  to  3  fathoms  lead- 
ing in  to  an  ancliorage  ground  of  considerable  extent,  with  a 
dei^th  of  only  1  to  4  fathoms.  Negro  Bluff,  west  of  the 
entrance,  is  at  the  southwest  end  of  a  round-shaped  peninsula 
about  a  mile  in  diameter,  occupied  by  a  low  hill  of  gradual 
ascent  and  connected  with  the  northern  shore  by  a  very  nar- 
row neck.  Between  the  Cayado  Peninsula  and  Negro  Bluff 
the  coast  recedes  considerably,  forming  an  open  bay,  which 
appears  to  be  free  from  danger,  with  3  to  4  fathoms  at  one- 
fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  low  shore.  The  Nueces  Rocks  lie 
at  the  northern  end  of  this  bay,  the  entire  group  lying  within 
one-fourth  mile  of  the  lieach. 

"Below  the  Tavasera  River  the  coast  is  fronted  for  a  dis- 
tance of  8  miles  by  a  long  sandy  shelf,  called  the  '  Play  a  Brava,' 
extending  from  1  to  2  miles  from  the  low  shore,  with  depths 
of  1  and  2  fathoms,  and  covering  in  the  southern  part  the 
mouth  of  Lavenia  River,  7  miles  from  the  Tavasera.  This 
bank  is  steep-to,  and  should  be  approached  with  care,  keep- 
ing outside  the  l()-fathom  line. 

"Pa.jaros  Bay,  about  2  miles  south  of  the  Lavenia  River, 
between  Pajaros  and  Muertos  points,  is  about  a  mile  in  width 
and  depth,  with  from  10  to  18  fathoms  of  water.  Rosario 
Baj',  separated  from  Pajaros  by  a  narrow  peninsula  ending 
in  Muertos  Point,  is  recognizable  by  the  isolated  pointed  hill 
terminating  this  point,  and  by  a  small  round  islet,  called 
'  Muela,'  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  about  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
Rosario  Point  projects  into  the  baj^^  at  its  middle,  dividing  it 
into  two  parts,  the  southern  of  which  is  called  Pivaj^  Bay.  A 
stream  discharges  at  the  bead  of  each  ba3\ 

"  Gorda  Point,  of  blunt  shape  and  2  miles  broad,  separates 
Pivaj^  from  Monita  Bay,  which  is  so  named  from  a  wooded 
islet  in  its  northern  part  near  the  shore.  Ventana  Point, 
limiting  Monita  Bay  on  the  south,  is  1  mile  north  of  Roble 
Point,  which  fronts  the  north  side  of  Medidor  Island  and  is 
2^  miles  from  the  entrance  to  Bahia  Honda. 

"  These  bays,  being  open  to  the  westward,  afford  anchorage 
only  in  the  fine  season.  In  each  bay  are  found  a  few  Indian 
families,  who  live  by  hunting  and  fishing. 

"Medidor  Island,  of  irregular  shape  and  moderate  height, 
about  1^  miles  long  and  five-eighths  of  a  mile  in  average 
width,  lies  about  2  miles  northwestward  of  the  entrance  to 
12312—03 7 

W.  T.  CONWAY 

list  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 


98  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Bahia  Honda,  and  is  separated  from  the  coast  by  a  narrow 
and  rocky  channel  less  than  one-fonrth  mile  wide,  which  is 
not  recommended  for  nse.  Pacora  or  Trucha  Islet,  lying 
three-eighths  mile  south  of  Med  id  or,  is  abont  one-fourth  mile 
long  and  100  yards  wide.  A  reef  extends  about  two-thirds 
across  the  passage,  leaving  a  narrow  channel  between  its  end 
and  the  islet,  with  a  depth  of  24  fathoms.  Both  Medidor  and 
Pacora  appear  to  be  bold  and  steep-to,  the  water  being  from 
20  to  30  fathoms  deep  in  their  vicinity,  but  should  not  be 
approached  too  closely  on  the  northern  and  western  sides  on 
account  of  the  deficiency  of  soundings. 

"Bahia  Honda  (deep  bay),  lying  14  miles  northeast  of  the 
north  end  of  Coiba  Island  and  23  miles  NW.  by  W.  from  Zur- 
ron  Point,  the  west  end  of  Cebaco,  is  an  excellent  harbor  for 
vessels  of  the  largest  size,  being  deep,  safe,  capacious,  and 
very  easy  of  access.  The  entrance,  between  Guarida  Point 
and  Sentinela  Island,  is  seven-eighths  mile  wide,  and  the 
harbor  within  is  2  miles  long  and  wide,  exclusive  of  the 
extensive  mud  flats  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  bay,  deep  water 
lying  in  general  close  to  the  shores,  which,  as  a  rule,  are  clean 
and  safe  of  approach. 

"  Guarida,  the  north  entrance  point,  is  bold  and  clean,  and 
may  be  approached  close-to,  there  being  20  fathoms  of  water 
at  from  100  to  200  yards. 

"Sentinela  Island,  forming  the  south  entrance  point, 
lies  seven-eighths  of  a  mile  south  of  Guarida  Point.  It  is  small 
and  surrounded  by  rocks,  which,  on  the  south,  extend  as  far 
as  Cono  Islet.  A  detached  reef  lies  about  400  j^ards  to  the 
northeastward.  Sentinela  and  Cono  are  separated  from  Cape 
Jabali  b}'  a  narrow  rocky  channel,  with  rocks  on  both  sides 
and  practicable  only  for  boats. 

"Between  Guarida  Point  and  Sentinela  Island  the  depths 
are  from  20  to  25  fathoms  for  almost  the  entire  width  of  the 
channel,  which  is  clear  and  free  from  dangers,  except  the 
rocks  and  reefs  close  to  the  island.  Within  the  entrance  the 
depths  decrease  gradually  to  10  and  12  fathoms  at  1^  miles. 

"Talon  Island,  lying  about  1:^  miles  within  the  harbor 
and  opposite  the  entrance,  is  about  five-eighths  of  a  mile 
long,  north  and  south,  and  120  feet  high.  Two  small  islets, 
Pueril  and  Espuela,  lie  respectively  off  the  western  and  the 
southern  point  of  Talon,  and  from  the  former  islet  a  shoal 
and  reef  extend  northwestward  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  99 

Talon  Island  separates  the  harbor  into  two  anchorages, 
Chinche  Bay  to  the  westward  and  Legamo  Bay  to  the  east- 
ward, the  former  being  much  the  larger.  On  the  northeast 
side  of  the  island  a  narrow  channel  connects  the  two  bays. 

"Chinche  Islet  is  round  and  wooded,  and  lies  in  the 
northern  part  of  Chinche  Bay,  about  600  yards  from  th^ 
shore;  it  is  clean  and  safe  of  approach  on  all  sides,  with  10 
and  11  fathoms  close-to,  to  the  southward. 

"Anchorage  maj^  be  had  in  any  part  of  the  harbor,  but  the 
best  berth  for  large  vessels  is  in  Chinche  Bay  south  of  the 
islet,  in  from  10  to  14  fathoms,  mud  bottom,  sheltered  from 
all  winds.  The  only  dangers  in  this  locality  are  a  rock  cov- 
ered bj^  8  feet  of  water  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile  northward 
of  Guarida  Point,  and  the  reef  lying  300  yards  northwestv>-ard 
of  Pueril  Islet.  Legamo  Bay  is  clean,  with  an  anchorage  ex- 
tent of  three-eighths  of  a  mile  and  depth  of  5  to  7  fathoms, 
completely  sheltered  b}'  Talon  Island. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  is  at  3h.  10m. 
Springs  rise  llf  feel,  neaps  8f  feet.  The  tidal  streams  run 
from  one  half  knot  to  1  knot  an  hour. 

"Supplies. — Vegetables  and  fruit  are  only  obtainable  in 
very  small  quantities.  Water  can  be  procured  near  a  vil- 
lage on  the  southeast  side  of  the  bay;  a  boat  can  anchor 
here  in  calm  weather  and  fill  with  a  hose.  Very  good  water 
may  also  be  procured  from  a  cascade  outside  the  harbor  on 
the  north  shore,  at  1|  miles  from  Guarida  Point.  The  water 
falls  uj)on  a  rock,  Avliich  affords  facilities  for  fixing  a  hose. 

"Captain  de  Rosencoat  states  that  the  Indians  are  exj)ert 
turtle  catchers  and  will  furnish  a  large  quantity  daily.  Fish 
were  abundant. 

"Directions. — The  entrance  of  the  bay  does  not  make  out 
well  at  a  distance,  but  its  location  is  so  plainlj^  marked  by  the 
islands  Af  iiera,  Medidor,  and  Pacora  that  it  is  readih^  found. 
After  making  out  Afuera  in  mid-channel,  Medidor  will  l)e 
seen  and  should  be  steered  for  until  Pacora  is  made  out  oi- 
the  entrance  is  opened.  Then  steer  for  Guarida  Point,  which 
may  be  ranged  close-to,  and  when  past  it  head  for  Chinche 
Islet  and  anchor  in  11  to  14  fathoms,  mud  bottom,  sheltered 
from  every  wind.  The  best  time  to  leave  the  harbor  with  a 
sailing  vessel  is  in  the  morning,  when  the  winds  that  j)recede 
the  sea  breeze  come  from  NE.  to  E.  These  are  sometimes 
so  light  that  the  boats  must  be  used  to  tow  out.     The  channel 


100  NOTES    OlSr    PANAMA. 

between  Medidor  and  the  coast  and  that  between  Medidor 
and  Pacora  should  not  be  used. 

"Afuera  Island  lies  about  midway  between  the  north 
end  of  Coiba  and  the  mainland,  the  channel  being  13^  miles 
wide.  The  island  may  be  passed  on  either  side,  the  only 
danger  being  a  reef  extending  from  its  southeast  point  about 
400  yards;  at  its  extremity  is  a  black  rock  almost  covered  at 
high  tide.  Afuerita  Islet  nearly  touches  the  northwestern 
end  of  Afuera. 

"Coiba  or  Quibo  is  the  largest  island  off  the  coast,  being 
21  miles  long,  NW.  and  SE.,  with  a  width  varj'ing  from  4  to 
12  miles,  and  of  moderate  elevation.  It  is  covered  with  for- 
ests and  a  dense  and  tangled  tropical  vegetation.  The  inte- 
rior is  said  to  consist  of  fine  plains  covered  with  magnificent 
forests,  as  yet  untouched.  In  all  parts  there  is  abundance 
of  good  water.  Around  its  shores  are  numerous  anchorages, 
but  no  harbor  in  which  a  vessel  may  find  protection  from  all 
winds. 

"The  western  shore  is  bold,  with  deep  water  close-to  and 
clear  of  dangers  not  in  close  proximity  to  the  shore.  Her- 
mosa  Point  is  the  northwest  extreme  of  the  island,  and  has 
deep  water  close  outside  the  rocks  and  islets  off  it;  eastward 
of  it  is  Hermosa  Baj',  open  to  the  northwestward,  with  a  sandy 
beach  at  its  head.  It  has  not  been  sounded  out,  but  has  20 
and  14  fathoms  in  the  entrance. 

"Off  the  southern  coast  are  several  dangers,  requiring 
caution  in  approaching  this  side  of  the  island.  A  shoal 
nearly  a  mile  in  width  extends  about  5  miles  along  the  shore 
from  Negada  Point,  tlie  southeast  extremity  of  the  island  to 
Racimo  Point.  Hill  Rock,  a  dangerous  detached  shoal  with 
6  feet  of  water  over  it,  lies  at  2^  miles  from  the  shore,  nearly 
south  of  Racimo  Point,  and  5j  miles  S.  64"  W.  of  Negada. 
Several  shoal  spots  of  4  to  o  fathoms  lie  at  1|  and  2  miles 
southwestward  of  Negada  Point,  with  deeper  water  inshore. 
Barca  Islet  is  a  little  over  one-half  mile  southwestward  of 
Racimo  Point.  Passage  Rocks,  a  grouj)  above  water,  are 
about  2  miles  west  of  Barca,  and  Logan  Rock,  also  above 
water,  lies  about  a  mile  northwest  of  the  former,  with  sound- 
ings of  6  to  9  fathoms  between  them  and  the  coast. 

"Damas  Bay,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Coiba,  G  miles  north- 
west of  Negada  Point,  is  the  principal  anchorage.  The  bay 
is  about  7  miles  wide  at  the  entrance  between  Fea  and  Clara 


NOTL'S    ON    PANAMA.  101 

points,  and  penetrates  4  miles.  At  its  head  is  a  broad  sandy 
flat,  tlirough  wliich  flows  a  SDiall  stream,  the  San  Jnan. 
There  is  good  anehoi-age  in  any  part  of  the  bay,  the  deptlis 
gradually  decreasing  from  30  fathoms  in  the  entrance  to  10 
and  12  fathoms  within  one-fourth  mile  of  the  flats  at  the 
head,  which,  on  account  of  the  considerable  rise  and  fall  of 
the  tide,  must  not  be  approached  too  closely.  Off  the  south- 
ern shore,  between  Fea  and  Observatory  points,  rocky  shoals 
extend  out  about  a  mile  and  are  steep-to,  with  10  to  12  fath- 
oms close  to  their  edges.  A  narrow  recess  in  the  reefs  here, 
with  0  to  8  fathoms  of  water,  might  with  care  afford  protec- 
tion from  the  SE.  to  a  small  vessel.  From  Fea  Point  to 
Negada  Point  shoal  water  extends  one-half  mile  from  the 
shore,  and  from  Clara  Point,  for  a  stretch  of  2  miles  to  the 
northward,  a  shoal  extends  nearly  a  mile  from  shore. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  is  at  3h.  10m.; 
springs  rise  about  1 2  feet.     The  ebb  and  flow  are  regular. 

"Supplies. — No  fruit  or  vegetables  are  procurable;  tur- 
tles abound,  but  are  hard  to  catch;  crabs,  cockles,  and  oysters 
are  plentiful.  In  the  woods  monkeys  and  parrots  abound, 
and  in  Anson's  time  there  were  deer;  but  the  interior  is 
nearly  inaccessible  from  the  steepness  of  the  cliffs  and  the 
tangled  vegetation.  Explorers  should  beware  of  alligators 
and  snakes. 

"Arena  Bay.— At  Job  Point,  2|  miles  north  of  Clara  Point, 
the  coast  turns  due  west  for  2  miles  and  then  again  to  the 
northward,  forming  Arena  Baj',  in  which  the  depth  is  con- 
venient for  anchoring  over  a  large  area,  the  depth  at  2  miles 
from  the  shore  being  only  20  fathoms.  At  the  head  of  the 
bay  a  sandy  flat  extends  out  one-half  mile,  and  througli  it 
flows  the  Juncal  River,  which  would  appear  to  be  the  remark- 
able cascade  described  in  the  account  of  Anson's  voyage. 
Pesado  Rocks  lie  in  the  northern  part  of  the  bay,  -H  miles 
from  Job  Point  and  three-fourths  mile  from  the  shore,  and 
north  of  these,  about  a  mile  offshore,  are  the  Cocos  Islands; 
outside  of  these  rocks  and  islands  there  appear  to  be  no 
dangers. 

"Baltasar  Head,  the  north  extreme  of  the  island,  74- 
miles  N.  31°  W.  from  Job  Point,  is  a  bold  headland  with  deep 
water  close-to.  The  channel  between  it  and  tlie  Contreras 
group  has  soundings  of  40  to  04  fathoms  and  no  dangers  ex- 
cept Prosper  Rock. 


102  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"  Remarks. — The  following  interesting  description  of  Coiba 
Island  is  found  in  the  account  of  Lord  Anson's  vo\'age  around 
the  world,  by  Richard  Walter,  the  chaplain,  j)ublished  in.  1770, 
thirty  years  after  the  voyage.  It  would  seem  that  the  island 
has  changed  but  little  up  to  the  present  day.  The  anchoring 
place  at  the  Centurion  was  in  Danias  Ba5^ 

"The  island  of  Coiba  is  extremely  convenient  for  wooding 
and  watering,  since  the  trees  grow  close  to  the  high-water 
mark  and  a  large,  rapid  stream  of  fresh  water  runs  over  the 
sandy  beach  into  the  sea,  so  that  we  were  little  more  than 
two  days  in  laying  in  all  the  wood  and  water  we  wanted. 
The  whole  island  is  of  a  very  moderate  height,  excepting  one 
part.  It  consists  of  a  continued  wood ,  spread  all  over  the  whole 
surface  of  the  countrj^  which  preserves  its  verdure  the  year 
round.  Among  the  other  wood  we  found  there  abundance 
of  cassia  and  a  few  lime  trees.  It  appeared  singular  to  us 
that,  considering  the  climate  and  the  shelter,  we  should  see 
no  other  birds  than  parrots,  paroquets,  and  macaws.  Indeed, 
of  these  last  there  were  prodigious  flights.  Next  to  these 
birds,  the  animals  we  found  in  most  plenty  were  monkej^s 
and  iguanas,  and  these  we  frequently  killed  for  food,  for, 
notwithstanding  there  were  many  lierds  of  deer  upon  the 
place,  the  difficulty  of  penetrating  the  woods  prevented  our 
coming  near  them,  so  that,  though  we  saw  them  often,  we 
killed  only  two  during  our  stay.  Our  prisoners  assured  us 
that  this  island  abounded  in  tigers,  and  we  did  once  discover 
the  iDrint  of  a  tiger's  claw  upon  the  beach,  but  the  tigers 
themselves  we  never  saw.  The  Spaniards,  too,  informed  us 
that  there  was  frequently  found  in  the  woods  a  most  mis- 
chievous serpent  called  the  fl.ying  snake,  which,  they  said, 
darted  itself  from  the  boughs  of  trees  on  either  man  or  beast 
that  came  within  its  reach,  and  whose  sting  they  believed  to  be 
inevitable  death.  Besides  these  dangerous  land  animals,  the 
sea  hereabouts  is  infested  with  great  numbers  of  alligators  of 
an  extraordinary  size;  and  we  often  observed  a  large  kind  of 
flat  fish,  jumping  a  considerable  height  out  of  the  water, 
which  we  supposed  to  be  the  fish  that  is  said  frequently  to 
destroy  the  pearl  divers  by  clasping  them  in  its  fins  as  thej- 
rise  from  the  bottom;  and  we  were  told  that  the  divers,  for 
their  security,  are  now  always  armed  with  a  sharp  knife, 
which,  when  they  are  entangled,  they  stick  into  the  belly  of 
the  fish  and  thereby  disengage  themselves  from  its  embraces. 


NOTEB    ON    PANAMA.  103 

"  While  the  ship  continued  here  at  anchor,  the  comnio- 
dore,  attended  by  some  of  his  officers,  went  in  a  boat  to  ex- 
amine a  bay  which  lay  to  the  northward;  and  they  afterwards 
ranged  all  along  the  eastern  side  of  the  island,  and  in  the 
places  where  they  put  on  shore,  in  the  course  of  this  expedi- 
tion, they  generally  found  the  soil  to  be  extremely  rich  and 
met  with  great  plenty  of  excellent  water.  In  ijarticular,  near 
the  northeast  point  of  the  island  they  discovered  a  natural 
cascade,  which  surpassed,  as  they  conceived,  everything  of 
this  kind  which  human  art  or  industry  has  hitherto  produced. 
It  was  a  river  of  transparent  watei',  al)out  40  yards  wide, 
which  rolled  down  a  declivity  of  near  150  yards  in  length. 
The  channel  it  fell  in  was  very  irregular,  for  it  was  entirely 
composed  of  rocks,  both  its  sides  and  bottom  being  made  up 
of  large  detached  blocks,  and  by  these  the  course  of  the 
water  was  frequently  interrupted,  for  in  some  parts  it  ran 
sloping  with  a  rapid  but  uniform  motion,  while  in  others  it 
tumbled  over  the  ledges  of  rocks  with  a  perpendicular  descent. 
All  the  n^^ighborhood  of  this  stream  was  a  fine  wood,  and  even 
the  huge  masses  of  rock  which  overhung  the  water,  and  which 
by  their  various  projections  formed  the  inequalities  of  the 
channel,  were  covered  with  lofty  forest  trees. 

"Rancheria  or  Quibito  is  a  small  island,  1^  miles  by 
three-fourths  mile  in  extent,  lying  2  miles  east  of  Baltasar 
Head,  the  north  end  of  Coiba.  The  channel  between  the  two 
islands  is  1^  miles  wide,  with  soundings  of  8  to  14  fathoms, 
and  appears  to  be  safe  by  keeping  near  the  shore  of  Coiba 
and  just  outside  the  Cocos  Islands.  On  account  of  the 
numerous  rocks  and  uneven  bottom,  however,  it  is  not  rec- 
ommended for  use.  Don  Juan  Rock,  above  water,  lies  nearly 
in  midchannel.  Aaron  Rocks,  a  group  of  islets  about  a  mile 
northwestward  of  Rancheria  and  li  miles  northeastward  of 
Baltasar  Head,  are  the  outermost  dangers  in  this  vicinity. 

"There  is  good  anchorage  south-southeast  of  Rancheria, 
opposite  a  sandy  beach  whence  wood  and  water  can  be  easily 
procured  from  the  island.  Some  shelter  is  furnished  by  a 
high  ]-ound  islet.  A  Frenchman  named  Sorget  was  resident 
on  Rancheria  in  1847. 

"JiCARON  Island,  4  miles  south  of  Coiba,  is  of  triangular 
form,  3f  miles  long  north  and  south,  and  well  wooded;  its 
highest  point,  830  feet  high,  is  on  the  east  side,  and  the  most 
extensive  lookout,  says  Captain  Colnett,  is  from  the  top   of 


104:  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

this  island,  for  it  commands  Coiba  and  tlie  whole  of  the  coast 
and  bay  to  the  northward.  David  Point,  the  northeast  ex- 
treme, is  clear  and  safe  of  approach,  with  deep  water  close -to 
Around  the  northwest  extreme  are  numerous  rocks  and  reefs, 
foul  ground  extending  off  three-fourths  of  a  mile.  A  small 
group  of  rocks  above  water  lies  If  miles  N.  70°  W.  of  Ursula 
Point,  the  south  extreme  of  the  island,  and  1^  miles  offshore, 
closely  surrounded  by  depths  of  23  to  27  fathoms.  About 
one-fourth  of  a  mile  south  of  Ursula  Point  is  Jicarita  Islet, 
1:^  miles  long  and  covered  with  cocoa  palms. 

"West  Coast — Jicaron  Island — Corrected  Height. — 
The  officer  in  charge  of  the  Branch  Hydrographic  Office,  San 
Francisco,  Cal.,  reports  that  the  master  of  the  steamer  San 
Juan,  Captain  Afredberry,  states  that  as  the  result  of  obser- 
vations on  four  consecutive  voyages  between  San  Francisco 
and  Panama  he  finds  the  height  of  Jicaron  Island  (4  miles 
south  of  Coiba  (Quibo)  Island)  to  be  (approximately)  1,400 
feet  instead  of  830  feet,  as  given  on  the  chart. 

"  The  channel  between  Jicaron  and  Coiba  is  practicable, 
but  of  very  irregular  depth,  the  best  water,  not  less  than  11 
fathoms,  being  nearer  Jicaron.  Hill  Rock,  the  principal 
danger  in  the  approaches,  lies  5^  miles  east  of  David  Point. 

"  Coast. — From  Bahia  Honda  the  coast  trends  S.  08°  E. 
for  20^  miles  to  Brava  Point,  at  the  entrance  of  Montijo  Bay, 
and  is  rugged,  with  several  islets  and  rocks  off  it.  At  2  miles 
from  the  land  the  soundings  are  35  to  27  fathoms  until  the 
vicinity  of  the  point  is  reached.  Lorenzo  Bay,  about  5  miles 
westward  of  the  point,  is  of  considerable  extent,  but  appar- 
ently foul,  and  has  not  been  closely  examined.  In  running 
from  one  bay  to  the  other  the  coast  should  have  a  berth  of 
not  less  than  3  miles. 

"Montijo  Bay  extends  northward  about  14  miles,  with  an 
average  breadth  of  9  miles,  and  is  fronted  and  nearly  inclosed 
by  the  two  islands,  Cebaco  and  Gol)ernador,  which  lie  in  the 
entrance.  Within  the  bay,  near  its  head,  is  Leones  Island, 
between  which  and  the  north  side  of  Cebaco,  a  distance  of  8 
miles,  is  a  continuous  shoal  with  a  depth  of  2  fathoms,  which 
occupies  a  large  part  of  the  ai-ea  of  the  bay  and  leaves  on 
either  side  but  a  narrow  channel.  Opposite  Leones  Island, 
on  both  sides  of  the  bay,  are  several  small  streams  accessible 
only  by  boat.  The  l)ay  is  of  little  value  to  shipping  and  sel- 
dom visited  on  account  of  the  shoals  and  very  irregular 
soundings.     A  closer  examination  or  survey  would  make  its 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  105 

use  quite  practicable  for  steamers  aud  afford  to  them  a  safe 
and  sheltered  harbor. 

"Cebaco  Island  is  of  irregular  shape,  i:U  miles  long,  ENE. 
and  WSW.,  and  3  miles  wide  at  its  eastern  end,  the  broadest 
part.  Some  detached  rocks  lie  immediatelj'  south  of  its  west- 
ern end,  and  a  sunken  rock  lies  about  a  mile  from  its  eastern 
point,  leaving  no  safe  channel  between.  When  entering  the 
bay  by  this,  the  east,  channel,  it  is  necessary  on  account  of 
this  sunken  rock  to  keep  nearer  to  the  main  than  to  the 
island,  the  depths  being  12  to  10  fathoms;  steer  then  for  San 
Juan  Rock,  distant  al)out  1^  miles  from  the  land,  until  a  2- 
fathom  spot  in  mid-channel  Iw  miles  southward  of  the  rock 
and  in  line  with  the  east  point  of  Cebaco  is  passed,  and  then 
steer  to  pass  the  rock  on  its  west  side  at  about  three-fourths 
of  a  mile  in  4  fathoms;  hence,  to  the  east  side  of  Leones 
Island  the  course  is  about  north  (N.  G°  W.  matr.),  westward 
of  several  rocks  lying  offshore,  in  soundings  of  6,  7,  and  9 
fathoms. 

"  GoBERNADOR  ISLAND,  between  the  west  end  of  Cebaco 
and  the  main,  is  about  2^  by  1|  miles  in  extent,  and  divides 
the  western  entrance  to  the  bay  into  two  channels,  either  of 
which  is  practicable,  but  the  northern  preferable  because 
wider  and  less  exposed  to  the  strong  outward  current  from 
the  bay.  The  depth  in  the  southern  channel  is  9  to  6 
fathoms  and  in  the  northern  16  to  6  fathoms.  There  is  good 
shelter  for  vessels  of  light  draft  under  the  west  shore  of 
the  bay,  which  is  easily  reached.  The  banks  throughout  the 
baj'  are  steep  aud  require  careful  attention  to  the  lead;  ves- 
sels should  not  go  bej^ond  4  fathoms. 

"DuARTis  Point,  the  eastern  entrance  point  of  Montijo 
Bay,  lies  6  miles  southeastward  of  Cebaco.  Foul  ground  ex- 
tends from  it  nearly  2  miles  to  the  eastward. 

"The  coast  south  of  Duartis  Point  is  low  and  indented  by 
two  large  baj'S,  with  a  small  stream  at  the  head  of  each.  The 
Quebra  Islets,  G  miles  below  the  point,  extend  to  the  west- 
ward about  li  miles  from  the  bluff  projection  of  the  coast 
separating  the  two  bays.  Vessels  should  keep  at  least  2 
miles  from  this  stretch  of  coast,  as  it  has  not  been  closelj' 
examined. 

"At  14  miles  south  of  Duartis  is  a  bluff  headland,  and  one- 
half  mile  off  it  is  the  rocky  but  wooded  islet  Naranjas,  which 
is  steep,  with  deep  water  close  outside. 

"Mariato  Point,  5  miles  SE.  of  Naranjas  Islet  and  55 


106  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

miles  east  (N.  84°  E.  mag.)  from  the  south  extremity  of  Jica- 
rita,  is  a  bold  headland  marking  a  sharp  tnrn  of  the  coast. 
It  is  the  beginning  of  the  range  of  high  coast  land  which  ter- 
minates at  Morro  Puercos. 

"Landfall. — Mariato  Point  is  a  good  landfall  for  vessels 
bound  to  Panama  frojn  the  westward,  as  by  keeping  under 
the  land  to  the  eastward  of  the  point  they  avoid  the  southerly 
set-out  of  the  gulf. 

"Morro  Puercos,  27  miles  east  of  Mariato  Point,  is  a  lofty 
headland  forming  the  termination  of  the  range  of  high  coast 
land.  The  water  off  this  coast  is  deep  close  to  tlie  rocks  for 
two-thirds  of  the  distance,  with  100  fathoms  within  2  miles  of 
the  shore.  Nearer  Puercos  Point  the  20-fatliom  line  is  about 
2  miles  from  shore.  About  4  miles  westward  of  the  point 
and  1  mile  from  the  shore  is  a  reef  above  water;  and  2  miles 
northeastward  of  the  point,  1^  miles  from  shore,  is  a  3-fathom 
patch.  The  chart  shows  a  5-fathom  spot,  with  14  fathoms 
close-to,  at  3:^  miles  S.  75°  E.  (S.  81°  E.  mag.)  from  the  point. 

"Coast. — ^From  Puercos  Point  to  Guanico  Point,  7  miles 
to  the  northeastward,  the  coast  curves  in  a  double  biglit,  and 
thence  in  a  larger  bight  to  Raia  Point,  off  which,  at  one-half 
of  a  mile,  are  the  Venado  Islet  and  reef.  The  Tomosi  River 
is  nearly  3  miles  northward  of  Guanico  Point,  and  al)out  the 
same  distance  beyond  the  river,  at  the  head  of  the  bight,  is  a 
patch  of  rocks  at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore.  About  2 
miles  westward  of  Raia  Point  is  the  Juera  River,  mentioned 
in  Findlay  as  accessible,  according  to  native  report,  for  vessels 
of  any  draft,  having  10  or  12  fathoms  depth,  and  affording  a 
supi^ly  of  fresh  water. 

"From  Guanico  Point  to  Cape  Mala,  23  miles  N.  60°  E.  of 
the  point,  the  coast  is  low  and  along  it  the  depths  are 
morlerate. 

"North  and  South  Frailes  are  tw^o  low,  barren,  flat 
topped  islets,  of  which  the  southern  lies  llf  miles  S.  46°  W. 
(S.  40°  W.  mag. )  from  Cape  Mala,  and  the  nortliern  21  miles 
N.  28°  W.  (N.  34°  W.  mag.)  from  the  southern.  A  reef 
extends  about  200  j'^ards  off  the  northwest  jjoint  of  the  south- 
ern islet,  but  with  this  exception  they  are  steep-to  and  clear 
of  outlying  dangers,  with  20  to  30  fathoms  within  one-half  of 
a  mile  of  the  rocks.  Although  a  good  mark  for  Cape  Mala  in 
clear  weather,  at  night  or  in  the  thick,  squally  weather  of  this 
coast  they  are  dangerous  to  vessels  keeping  under  the  land 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  107 

westward  of  Mala  to  avoid  the  current,  as  the  lead  giv^es  no 
warning  of  their  proximity.  At  such  times  they  should  be 
given  a  wide  berth. 

THE  GULF  AND  BAY  OF  PANAMA — PEARL  ISLANDS. 

Variation  in  1902. 
Cape  Mala 5°  41' E.    |    Piuas  Point 4°  58  E. 

"General  description. — Cape  Mala  on  the  west  and 
Pinas  Point  on  the  east  may  be  considered  the  limits  of  the 
Gulf  of  Panama.  The  line  between  these  points,  running 
nearly  east  and  west,  is  105  miles  long,  and  within  this  line 
the  gulf  extends  to  the  northward  02  miles,  Avith  the  bay  and 
city  of  Panama  at  its  head.  Between  the  entrance  points 
the  100-fathom  line  curves  slightly  to  the  northward,  the 
depths  outside  increasing  rapidly  to  1,000  and  2,000  fathoms, 
while  within  they  decrease  gradually  to  the  head.  The  Pearl 
islands  are  entirely  within  the  50-fathom  line. 

"The  Isthmus  of  Panama.,  which  encircles  the  gulf,  is  the 
narrow  neck  of  land  connecting  the  continents  of  North  and 
South  America;  in  a  restricted  sense  the  name  is  applied  to 
the  narrow  crossing  between  Panama  and  Colon,  the  two 
other  narrowest  crossings  being  distinguished  as  the  Isthmus 
of  San  Bias  and  the  Isthmus  of  Darien;  the  widths  of  the 
Isthmus  at  these  points,  in  the  order  here  given,  are,  respec- 
tively, 31,  27,  and  32  miles,  the  last  distance  being  measured 
from  the  head  of  deep-water  navigation  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Savannah  River  in  Darien  Harbor. 

"The  whole  Isthmus  is  comprised  in  the  Department  of 
Panama  of  the  Republic  of  Colombia,  this  department  ex- 
tending from  the  Costa  Rican  boundary  to  the  Department 
of  Cauca.  All  the  departments  of  Colombia,  except  Panama, 
are  included  in  South  America.  The  total  population  of 
Panama  in  1881  was  285,000  persons. 

"Climate. — The  geographical  position  of  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama,  the  absence  of  high  mountains,  and  the  vast  extent 
of  forests  and  other  uncultivated  parts  tend  to  produce  a  hot 
and  rainy  climate,  which,  nevertheless,  with  the  exception  of 
a  few  localities,  asChagres,  Colon,  and  Portobelo,  is  said  to  be 
health}^  and  more  favorable  to  Europeans  than  that  of  most 
tropical  countries.  Diseases  of  the  digestive  and  integumen- 
tary systems  are  common,  and  malarial  fevers,  often  of  a 
most  pernicious  type,  prevail  throughout  the  year.    The  rainy 


108  '  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

season  is  the  most  unhealthy,  especially  at  its  end,  when  the 
weather  is  changing.  Yellow  fever  has  prevailed  at  times  in 
an  epidemic  form.  On  board  shij)  Panama  is  the  most 
healthy  j)lace  on  the  coast  of  Central  America.  Vessels  of  war 
have  remained  here  many  months  at  a  time,  their  crews  con- 
tinuing in  a  healthy  state 

"  The  wet  season  begins  in  May  and  lasts  till  November. 
The  rains  graduallj^  increase  until  the  season  is  fairly  estab- 
lished in  June,  and  continue  through  July,  August,  and  Sep- 
tember, with  strong  southerh'^  winds.  In  December  the  rains 
cease;  the  NW.  and  NNW.  winds  set  in,  producing  an  imme- 
diate change.  During  the  dry  season  regular  land  and  sea 
breezes  blow.  The  sea  breeze  sets  in  about  10.30  a.  m.  from 
SSVV.,  generall}'  increases  in  force  until  about  3.30  p.  m.,  then 
graduall}'  subsides,  and  at  sunset  is  followed  by  a  calm. 

"About  the  end  of  June  the  rains  are  suspended  for  a  short 
time,  the  occurrence  of  this  i^henomenon  being  so  regular  as 
to  receive  the  name  of  Veranito  de  San  Juan.  The  average 
temperature  of  tlie  year  is  very  high. 

"Winds. — The  navigation  of  the  approaches  to  the  Gulf  of 
Panama  is  for  a  sailing  vessel  one  of  the  most  tedious,  uncer- 
tain, and  vexatious  undertakings  known  to  the  seaman. 
Between  Cape  Corrientes  (latitude  5°  30'  N.)  and  Panama  the 
pi'evalent  winds  are  from  the  northward  and  westward,  with 
frequent  squalls  from  the  SW.  between  the  months  of  June 
and  December.  In  the  Gulf  of  Panama  the  winds  are  regu- 
lated by  the  seasons;  the  prevalent  wind,  however,  is  from 
the  northward.  In  the  fine  season,  commencing  in  December, 
the  winds  are  regular  and  constant,  bringing  fine,  dry 
weather.  To  the  southward  of  the  gulf  they  blow  much 
harder,  and  ofC  the  coast  of  Veragua  "  a  double-reef  topsail 
breeze  in  Januarj^  and  February  is  not  uncommon.  In  April 
and  May  the  northerly  winds  are  less  regular  and  have  more 
westings  in  them,  with  calms,  light  sea  and  land  breezes,  and 
occasional  squalls  from  the  southwestward.  In  June  the 
rain}'  season  sets  in  and  the  southerlj^  winds  become  stronger; 
still  the  northwest  wind  is  mostly  found  after  noon,  and  ves- 
sels sailing  from  Panama  will  generally  have  at  all  seasons  a 
fair  wind  until  south  of  Cape  Mala. 

"Between  the  Galapagos  Islands  and  the  coast,  westward 

« Province  of  the  Department  of  Panama  lying  between  the  Isthmus 
of  Panama  and  the  Isthmus  of  Chiriqui. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  109 

of  the  meridian  of  80°  W.  and  sonth  of  the  parallel  of  5°  N., 
the  winds  are  between  south  and  west  all  the  year  round, 
and,  except  between  the  months  of  February  and  June,  they 
are  of  sufficient  strength  and  duration  to  make  navigation 
easy;  but  northward  of  latitude  5*^  N.  and  between  80°  W. 
and  110°  W.  is  a  region  of  calms  and  doldrums,  accompanied 
by  rains  and  squalls. 

"Currents. — The  Gulf  of  Panama  is  subject  to  irregular 
currents,  partly  caused  by  the  formation  of  the  land  and 
partly  influenced  by  the  Peruvian  and  Mexican  streams,  ac- 
cording to  the  varying  strength  of  each.  Malpelo  Island, 
which  lies  about  230  miles  S.  25°  W.  of  Cape  Mala,  is  surrounded 
by  strong  and  rapid  currents.  These  have  been  observed  to  set 
in  opposite  directions,  sometimes  to  the  NE.  and  sometimes 
to  the  SW.  A  steadj^  current  has  been  found  to  set  to  the 
northward  after  passing  Cape  San  Lorenzo,  at  the  rate  of  24 
to  36  miles  per  day,  extending  offshore  about  60  miles.  This 
stream  runs  along  the  coast,  following  the  direction  of  the 
land,  enters  and  makes  a  complete  circuit  of  the  Gulf  and  the 
Bay  of  Panama,  and  then  sets  with  considerable  force,  espe- 
cially in  the  dry  season,  to  the  southward  down  the  western 
side  of  the  gulf.  After  passing  Cape  Mala  it  meets  the  Mex- 
ican current  from  the  WNW.,  causing  tide  rips,  eddies,  and 
the  short,  choppy  sea  met  with  at  the  entrance  to  the  gulf. 

"West  Coast.— Cape  Mala,  which  forms  the  western 
j)oint  of  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Panama,  is  a  low  but  cliffy 
point  with  outlying  rocky  ledges,  having  deep  water  close  to 
them.  The  land  from  the  NW.  slopes  gradually  down  to  the 
sea  at  this  point  from  a  considerable  distance,  making  the 
exact  cape  difficult  to  distinguish  unless  the  breakers  are 
seen.  On  opening  the  gulf  around  this  cape  a  strong  south- 
erly set  is  generally  experienced,  especially  in  the  dry  season. 

"Iguana  Island,  lying  about  9  miles  to  the  northward  of 
Cape  Mala,  is  a  little  higher  than  the  adjacent  coast,  and  thus 
forms  a  conspicuous  object.  A  ledge  extends  about  600  yards 
from  its  south  point,  and  the  chart  indicates  a  reef  as  extend- 
ing about  2  miles  ENE.  from  its  east  point;  also,  in  1858,  a 
reef  was  reported  to  stretch  to  the  NNE.  from  its  north  point; 
but  otherwise  the  island  is  steep-to,  with  15  fathoms  in  the 
channel  of  about  1  mile  in  width  between  it  and  the  main. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  at  Iguana  Island  is 
at  4h. ;  springs  rise  15  feet.     The  flood  sets  to  the  northward 


110  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

and  the  ebb  to  tlie  southeast,  the  latter  being  considerably 
the  stronger,  especially  between  the  months  of  December 
and  June. 

"Parita  Bay,  nearl}^  20  miles  wide  and  open  to  the  east- 
ward, lies  within  Lisa  and  Antoine  ]3oints,  the  former  point 
being  38  miles  NW.  of  Cape  Mala  and  the  latter  40  miles 
SW.  of  Chame  Point.  From  the  cape  to  Lisa  Point  the  shore 
is  a  hard  bank  with  sand}^  beach  in  front;  at  the  point  mud 
flats  begin  and  extend  around  the  western  side  of  the  bay, 
the  coast  being  a  low  mangrove  shore,  intersected  by  the 
mouths  of  no  less  than  five  small  rivers;  the  land  to  the  west- 
ward is  also  low,  with  several  hummocks.  The  coast  between 
the  bay  and  Chame  Point  is  a  continuous  beach,  named  Playa 
Grande,  in  front  of  a  low  wooded  bank.  There  is  a  depth  of 
4  and  5  fathoms  about  2  miles  off  this  beach,  except  S.  22°  E. 
(S.  27°  E.  mag.)  of  the  Cerro  Chame,  where  there  is  onlj' 
about  4  fathoms  at  nearly  7  miles  from  the  land,  the  bank 
extending  from  here  to  Chame  Point. 

"Otoque  AND  Bona  Islands,  with  Estiva  Islet  and  Re- 
dondo  Rock,  lying  6  miles  southeastward  of  Chame  Point, 
form  a  group  similar  but  smaller  than  Taboga  and  Tabo- 
guilla,  being  cultivated  and  having  a  considerable  village, 
named  La  Goleta,  in  the  baj'  on  the  western  side  of  Otoque. 
Otoque  and  Bona  are  high  and  peaked,  and  form  good  land- 
marks for  vessels  entering  this  side  of  the  bay.  Anchorage 
in  from  10  to  14  fathoms  may  be  found  in  any  part  of  the 
group,  and  all  dangers  are  above  water. 

"  Chame  Bay,  at  the  head  of  which  is  a  small  river  of  the 
same  name,  is  nearly  filled  with  large  mud  banks,  the  largest, 
the  Cabra  Loma,  lying  in  the  middle  of  the  bay  and  on  it 
Tabor  Island.  Chame  Point,  the  southern  horn  of  the  bay, 
is  a  singular,  low,  woody,  projecting  peninsula,  5^  miles  long 
and  one-half  mile  wide;  between  it  and  Cabra  Loma  Bank  is 
a  convenient  harbor,  2  miles  long  b}^  three-fourths  mile  wide, 
with  from  3  to  8  fathoms  water,  there  being  16  to  18  feet  close 
to  the  beach. 

"Coast. — The  coast  from  Chame  Point  to  Bruja  Point,  a 
distance  of  16  miles,  forms  a  shoal  bay,  with  several  outljing 
banks  and  rockj^  islets,  and  vessels  bound  to  Panama  should 
therefore  keep  near  the  Island  of  Taboga  and  not  ai^proach 
this  shore  within  the  depth  of  5  fathoms.  The  Rio  Chorrera 
discharges  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  about  15  miles  southwest- 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  Ill 

ward  of  Panama,  and  on  the  river,  at  about  17  miles  from 
Panama,  is  the  town  of  Chorrera,  180  feet  above  the  sea,  with 
nearly  5,000  inhabitants.  Vique  Cove,  with  a  small  village 
is  5  miles  westward  from  Bruja  Point.  About  a  mile  north- 
east of  Vique  is  a  loft}'  treble-peaked  hill,  1,610  feet  high, 
named  Cerro  de  Cabra,  a  conspicuous  object  for  vessels 
bound  to  Panama,  and  frequently  mistaken  for  Taboga  by 
those  coming  from  the  eastward. 

"  Valladolid  Rock,  with  10  fathoms  close-to,  lies  G  miles 
north  of  Otoque  Island  and  6^  miles  northeast  of  Chame  Point. 

"Chame  Island  lies  2  miles  northeast  of  Valladolid  Rock, 
with  7  to  10  fathoms  close  outside.  Perique  Rock  lies  close 
to  the  north  extreme  of  the  island. 

"Taboga  Island,  with  the  islands  of  Urava  and  Tabo- 
guilla,  forms  a  pleasant  group,  about  1  miles  by  2  miles  in 
extent,  lying  9  miles  south  of  Panama.  Taboga,  the  highest 
and  largest  island,  935  feet  high,  is  well  cultivated,  with  a 
large  village  on  its  northeast  side.  Northward  of  the  village 
is  the  Morroof  Taboga,  a  small  hill  connected  with  the  main 
island  by  a  sandy  neck  covered  at  high  water.  This  island 
is  occupied  by  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company,  which 
has  here  some  stores,  a  water  tank  with  abundant  supply  of 
water,  and  a  gridiron  300  feet  long. 

"  The  anchorage  off  the  village  is  convenient,  being  about 
GOO  3^ards  from  the  shore,  in  10  fathoms,  with  the  j)eak  of 
Urava  in  range  with  the  high  cliff  of  Taboga,  and  the  church 
bearing  between  southwest  and  west. 

"  Ukava  is  a  small  lofty  island  separated  from  the  southeast 
end  of  Taboga  by  a  narrow  and  shoal  channel;  off  its  south 
extreme  is  the  small  islet  of  Terapa. 

"  Taboguilla,  710  feet  high,  also  well  cultivated,  with  some 
islets  oft"  its  southwest  extreme,  is  the  northeast  island  of  the 
group,  with  a  wide  and  deep  channel  between  it  and  Urava, 
and  in  the  middle  of  the  channel  a  rock  which  uncovers  4  feet 
at  low-water  springs;  the  sea  seldom  breaks  over  the  rock  at 
high  water,  and  it  must  be  carefully  avoided  bj'  closing  either 
island,  both  being  steep-to,  or  by  keeping  the  neck  of  the 
Morro  open,  bearing  N.  57°  W.  (X.  62°  W.  mag.),  and  pass- 
ing south  of  it.  Farallon,  a  snuill  islet,  also  lies  in  this  chan- 
nel and  is  steep-to,  with  10  fathoms  between  it  and  Taboguilla. 

"Melones,  a  small  rocky  islet,  lies  2}  miles  northwest  of 


112  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Taboga,  with  the  Melones  rock,  above  water,  one-half  mile  to 
the  northward  of  it. 

"Bruja  Point,  about  5  miles  northward  of  Taboga  Island, 
is  a  rocky,  projecting  point,  marking  a  tnrn  of  the  coast. 
Venado,  Cocovi,  and  Cocoviceta  islets  lie  southwestward  of 
the  point,  all  within  a  distance  of  1^  miles;  and  Tortola  and 
Tortolita  islets  lie  about  2  miles  southeastward  of  the  point 
and  o^  miles  north  of  Taboga;  these  islets  are  all  witliiu  the 
3-fathom  curve.  From  Bruja  Point  to  the  Citj'  of  Panama 
shoal  water  extends  about  2  miles  from  the  shore  and  envel- 
opes all  the  islands  on  this  side  of  Panama  road. 

"Batele  Point,  1|  miles  northeast  of  Bruja,  is  the  south 
extreme,  102  feet  high,  of  a  large,  round,  hilly  projection 
which  forms  the  western  side  of  Panama  road.  Changarmi 
Island,  surrounded  b}'  the  Pulperia  Reefs,  with  Penamarca 
Rock  at  their  northern  end,  lies  1^  miles  S.  G8^  E.  from  the 
point. 

"  Guinea  Point,  1^  miles  northward  of  Batele  Point,  is  the 
north  extreme,  320  feet  high,  of  the  liill}^  projection  above 
mentioned.  From  here  to  the  city  of  Panama,  2^  miles  to 
the  northeastward,  the  shore  line  recedes  in  an  extensive 
bight,  filled  with  mud  flats,  and  is  broken  by  the  mouths  of 
the  Farfan,  the  San  Juan,  and  the  Grande,  small  rivers  with 
cultivated  banks.  La  Boca,  at  the  moutii  of  the  Rio  Grande 
and  about  1^  miles  west  of  the  city,  is  the  railway  terminus, 
where  connection  with  ship  is  made. 

"Naos,  Culebra,  Perico,  and  Flamenco  Islands,  with 
the  outlying  islet  of  San  Jose,  are  a  group  in  the  southwest- 
ern part  of  Panama  road,  Perico,  335  feet  high,  lying  about 
6  miles  northward  of  the  north  extreme  of  Taboguilla  and  2 
miles  southward  of  tlie  cit3^  Naos,  167  feet  high,  is  con- 
nected with  Culebra  and  Perico  by  a  neck  of  sand  and  rocks, 
covered  at  high  water.  The  passage  between  Perico  and 
Flamenco  is  shoal  and  should  not  be  used  except  hy  boats, 
but  that  between  Flamenco  and  San  Jose  has  5  fathoms  in 
mid-channel  and  no  dangers.     Flamenco  is  344:  feet  high. 

"Naos  is  the  headciuarters  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company,  which  has  here  machine  shops,  and  a  depot  for 
fresh  water,  coal,  and  supplies,  Avhich  articles  can  be  ob- 
tained from  the  company.  The  bay  on  the  northern  side  of 
Naos  and  Perico  forms  a  convenient  anchorage,  and  on  the 
isthmus  connecting  the  two  islands,  which  is  sandy  on  the 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  113 

north  side,  steam  vessels  of  2,500  tons  have  been  easily 
beached.  A  channel  has  been  cnt  by  the  tides  aronud  the 
eastern  end  of  Xaos  Island,  through  v.'hich  the  anchorage 
north  of  the  island  may  be  reached  with  a  draft  of  -20  feet  at 
mean  low  water. 

"  La  Boca  Channel  has  been  dredged  across  the  flats  that 
fill  the  bight  southward  of  the  citj^  so  as  to  connect  the 
anchorage  nortliward  of  Perico  Island  with  the  Panama  Rail- 
road terminus  at  La  Boca,  on  the  east  side  of  the  mouth  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  this  being  also  the  terminus  of  the  Panama 
Canal.  A  large  iron  pier  for  vessels  has  been  constructed  at 
La  Boca,  and  in  the  basin  adjoining  it  the  depth  at  mean  low 
water  was  stated  by  the  Panama  Railroad  Company  in  June, 
1901,  to  be  nowhere  less  than  20  feet.  The  channel  is  well 
marked  by  ten  pairs  of  buoj^s,  and  five  additional  buoj's  mark 
the  west  side  of  the  basin  opposite  the  pier.  These  buoys, 
while  intended  to  be,  respectively,  red  and  black,  show  with 
the  coloi'  of  rusty  iron.  The  railroad  eomj^any  possesses  and 
maintains  in  n^adiness  for  use  an  extensive  dredging  plant 
for  tiie  purpose  of  keeping  this  channel  deep  enough  for 
ocean  steamers. 

"Panama — La  Boca  Channel— Dredging  operations. — 
Information  dated  May  21,  1002,  has  been  received  from  the 
Panama  Railroad  Company  that  the  work  of  dredging  the 
seaward  end  of  La  Boca  Channel  is  progressing  rapidly, 
establishing  a  depth  of  21  feet  at  low  water  spring  tides.  The 
work  will  be  continued  until  approximately  that  depth  is 
established  in  the  channel  up  to  the  pier  and  basins,  at  which 
a  mnch  greater  depth  is  maintained. 

"La  Boca  Wharp'^'  was  built  by  the  canal  company,  but 
has  been  turned  over  to  the  railroad  company. ,  During  its 
construction  its  failure  was  predicted  on  account  of  the  great 
rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  and  the  difficulty  of  keej)ing  open 
the  channel  leading  to  the  wharf,  as  a  great  amount  of  mud 
is  l)rouglit  down  by  the  San  Juan  River.  The  difficnlties 
have  been  reduced  to  a  minimum.  Vessels  are  not  lashed 
alongside  the  wharf,  but  have  floats  placed  between  them  and 
the  wharf,  so  that  there  are  no  bad  results  froai  the  tide. 
The  cranes  or  winches  on  the  wharf  are  of  a  special  kind  that 
permits  the  working  of  cargo  at  all  stages  of  the  tide. 

«  Report  of  vice-consul-general,  June  15,  1901. 
12312—03 8 


114  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"The  following  measurements  give,  in  feet,  the  size  and 
capacit}^  of  the  wharf:  Total  length,  085;  total  width,  54; 
depth  of  channel  alongside  at  high  tide,  45f ;  at  low  tide,  26^; 
width  of  channel  alongside,  98 ;  capacity  of  vessel  space,  985 ; 
railroad  tracks,  2;  total  length  of  railroad  track,  787|^;  car 
capacity  of  tracks,  39;  cranes,  6  of  2  tons  and  1  of  20  to  24 
tons;  tonnage  of  largest  vessel  yet  docked,  4,600  tons. 

"The  basin  in  which  vessels  lie  has  a  maneuvering  space 
of  480  feet.  The  bottom  is  soft  mud,  and  while  it  is  con- 
sidered best  for  the  vessels  to  be  at  all  times  afloat,  3'et  they 
can  rest  safel}^  in  the  muddy  bottom. 

"From  the  above  it  is  seen  that  any  vessel  of  500  feet 
length  and  not  drawing  more  than  20  feet  can  be  handled  at 
this  wharf  with  facility. 

"The  wharf  is  constructed  entirely'  of  steel,  and  is  roofed 
over  and  housed  in  Avith  corrugated  iron.  The  rates  charged 
for  vessels  coming  alongside  are  governed  for  the  most  part 
by  contract. 

"Los  Hermanos  Rocks  are  three  black  rocks,  visible  at 
first-quarter  ebb,  lying  nearly  one-half  mile  south  of  the  south- 
east bastion  and  300  yards  from  the  reef;  detached  rocks  with 
3  and  7  feet  of  water  between  them,  visible  only  at  low-water 
springs,  lie  off  their  soutlieast  extreme,  the  outer  one  being 
400  yards  from  the  reef. 

"BUEY  Point,  seen  onl}-  at  half  tide,  is  the  northeastern 
extremity  of  the  rockj^  ledge  or  reef  that  surrounds  the  east- 
ern and  southern  shores  of  the  peninsula  occupied  by  the 
city,  Avith  a  width  of  from  500  to  1,000  yards.  Immediately 
south  of  Bue}'  Point,  which  lies  900  yards  eastward  of  the 
northeast  bastion,  a  deep  indentation  in  the  reef  forms  a  baj^ 
in  which,  after  half  flood,  there  is  eas,y  landing  on  the  sandy 
beach  in  front  of  the  Monks'  Gate.  The  reef  is  marked  by 
iron  posts. 

"Petillo  Point,  1:^  miles  northeastward  of  the  city,  is  a 
black  rocky  promontory  with  two  small  hills  over  it,  and 
between  them  a  rivulet  admitting  boats  at  high  water;  rocky 
ledges  extend  300  yards  from  the  point.  Between  Petillo 
Point  and  Buey  Point  the  shore  recedes  nearly  three-fourths 
mile,  forming  a  bay  called  El  Puerto,  the  head  of  which  is  of 
mud,  edged  with  a  sandy  beach,  and  the  greater  portion  dry 
at  low- water  springs.  It  is  here  that  most  of  the  minor  trade 
of  the  gulf  is  carried  on  by  means  of  bungos  (large  canoes 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  115 

made  from  trunks  of  trees,  some  of  them,  though,  made  of  a 
single  trunk  measuring-  12  tons).  Though  clumsy  in  appear- 
ance, they  are  well  fitted  for  the  navigation  of  the  gulf,  and 
bring  to  the  city  most  of  the  tropical  productions  of  the 
Isthmus. 

"The  Knocker  and  Taboga  are  two  rocks  Avith  only  6 
feet  of  water  on  them,  the  former  nearly  five-eighths  mile 
S.  86°  E.  (N".  89°  E.  mag.)  from  the  southeast  bastion,  and 
Taboga  about  300  yards  southwestward  of  the  Knocker.  A 
stranger  should  not  attempt  to  pass  west  of  the  red  buo}' 
marking  the  Knocker,  this  being  in  14  feet  about  300  yards 
eastward  of  the  rock,  which  has  near  it  depths  of  8  to  12  feet. 
Shoal  patches  with  10  and  11  feet  lie  outside  the  buoy  at  from 
400  to  800  yards  from  the  Knocker. 

"Sulphur  Rocks. — This  dangerous  reef,  lying  about  a 
mile  northwest  of  the  Danaide  and  1^  miles  eastward  of  the 
southeast  bastion,  is  about  one-fourth  mile  in  extent,  north 
and  south,  and  has  a  rock  aw^ash  in  its  center,  with  6  and  9 
feet  around  it,  and  outlying  patches  of  12  and  14  feet.  The 
reef  is  marked  by  a  red  buoy  on  the  southern  side.  The  rail- 
road flagstaff,  in  line  with  the  center  of  Mount  Ancon,  bear- 
ing N.  89°  W.  (S.  86°  W.  mag.),  leads  northward  of  the  reef 
in  15  feet,  but  this  passage  should  not  be  used  at  low-water 
springs, 

"Danaide  Rocks. — These  four  patches  of  conical  rocks, 
lying  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Panama  Road,  about  2:^  miles 
northeastward  of  Perico  Island  and  2^  miles  southeastward 
of  the  city,  have  only  15  to  18  feet  on  them,  with  3|  and  4 
fathoms  on  all  sides.  They  lie  awkwardly  in  the  track  of 
vessels  standing  for  the  anchorage  from  the  eastward  and 
keeping  their  luff  with  the  land  breeze.  These  shoal  spots 
are  favorite  fishing  ijlaces,  and  canoes  seen  in  their  vicinity 
should  be  avoided  by  vessels,  as  thej^  may  be  fishing  on  the 
rocks. 

"Clearing  marks. — The  south  steeple  of  the  cathedral 
kept  midway  between  the  east  and  southeast  bastions,  N.  61° 
W.  (N.  66°  W.  mag.),  leads  southward  of  all  the  Danaide 
patches;  the  Hermanos  rocks  in  range  with  the  hill,  252  feet 
high,  between  the  rivers  Farfan  and  Grande,  S.  84°  W.  (S. 
79°  W.  mag.),  leads  to  the  northward  of  the  patches  and 
southward  of  Sulphur  rocks. 

"Panama  road,  the  anchorage  off  the  city  of  Panama,  al- 


11(3  notp:s  on  Panama. 

though  shoal  and  on  the  seaward  side  entirely  unprotected, 
may  be  considered  secure.  The  bottom,  being  of  mud,  holds 
well,  and  with  good  ground  tackle  and  common  precaution  a 
vessel  might  lie  here  with  one  anchor  down  all  the  year  round. 
Attention  to  the  tides  and  soundings  will  enable  a  vessel  to 
lie  close-in  at  times  for  discharge  of  cargo.  The  new  dredged 
channel  leading  to  the  railroad  terminus  at  La  Boca  enables 
vessels  to  discharge  and  load  at  the  pier. 

"The  inner  anchorage  is  in  2  fathoms  about  a  mile  east- 
ward of  the  northeast  bastion;  the  outer  anchorage  is  in  3^  to 
4  fathoms  about  2  miles  southeastward  of  the  city,  or  in  5  to 
6  fathoms  northeastward  of  Perico  Island. 

"Lights. — A  fixed  red  light,  visible  3  miles,  is  shown  at 
the  end  of  the  railroad  wharf  north  of  the  city. 

"A  fixed  red  electric  light,  maintained  by  the  city  to  illu- 
minate the  ijromenade,  is  shown  at  an  elevation  of  64  feet 
above  low- water  mark  from  a  pole  standing  400  feet  north  of 
the  corner  of  the  southeast  bastion,  and  is  tlie  highest  electric 
light  seen  from  the  bay.  'lliis  light  is  made  on  rounding 
Taboguilla,  being  then,  in  ordinarj^  weather,  distinctly  vis- 
ible, and  is  used  as  a  leading  light  by  the  Pacific  Mail  steam- 
ers, giving  them  at  night  the  direction  of  San  Jose  Rock  by 
shutting  the  light  out  behind  the  rock. 

"  Tides. — High  water  in  Panama  Road,  corrected  establish- 
ment, is  at  3h.  2m. ;  low  water  at  9h.  12m. ;  mean  range  of 
tides,  13  feet;  of  springs,  17  feet;  of  neaps,  8  feet.  The 
average  times  of  high  and  low  water  are  a  trifle  earlier  at  La 
Boca  and  the  range  of  the  tide  somewhat  greater,  the  mean 
range  of  spring  tides  being  20  feet. 

"The  datum  plane  for  the  Ranger's  survey  of  the  harbor  of 
Panama  in  February  and  March,  1900,  is  mean  low  water  as 
determined  hy  the  Panama  Canal  C^ompanj-'s  observations, 
extending  over  a  period  of  five  years,  at  its  tide-gage  station 
at  the  northeast  end  of  Naos  Island. 

"Tidal  Streams. — The  flood  stream  sets  to  the  northwest- 
ward and  the  ebb  stream  to  the  southward,  the  strength  vary- 
ing from  one-half  knot  to  1^  knots  per  hour,  the  ebb  being- 
stronger  than  the  flood.  TJie  long  swell  which  occasionally 
sets  into  the  road  ceases  with  the  flowing  tide. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


117 


Tidal  strcioiis  in  Pmiama  Harbor,  as  observed  by  the   U.  S.  S.  Ranger 
in  February  and  March,  1900. 


Half  flood. 

Half  ebb. 

Station. 

Range 
of  tide 
in  feet. 

Set. 

Drift  in 

knots 

per 

hour. 

Range 
of  tide 
in  feet. 

Set. 

Drift  in 

knots 

per 

hour. 

Eastward  of  Perlco 
and  Flamenco  is- 
lands. 

Knocker  buoy  _ 

Entrance  to  La  Boca 
Channel. 

Halfway  up  La  Boca 
Channel. 

La  Boca  basin,  half- 
way between  pier 
and  inner-channel 
biioys. 

21 

17 
17 

17 

17 

NW.iN. 

NW. 
W.by  N. 

WNW. 

W.by  N. 

0.6 

.5 
.4 

1  . 

1 

20 

16 
21 

21 

20 

SE.  by  S. 

S.  byE. 
S.  by  E. 

SE.  by  E.  iE. 

SE.  i  E. 

0.6 

.6 

2.2 
1.5 

"Panama  city,  the  capital  of  the  Department  of  Panama, 
with  a  population  estimated  in  1901  at  20,000,  of  which  the 
foreign  element,  mostlj^  Jamaican  negroes,  foi'ms  about  one- 
half,  the  Americans  numbering  about  100,  stands  on  a  rocky 
peninsula  jutting  out  into  the  shallow  water  at  the  head  of  the 
bay,  and  was  formerly  a  strongly  fortified  city.  It  has  a  noble 
appearance  from  the  sea;  the  churches,  towers,  and  houses, 
shoAving  above  the  line  of  the  fortifications,  stand  out  from 
the  dark  hills  inland  with  an  air  of  grandeur.  About  a  mile 
westward  of  the  city,  to  which  it  forms  a  pleasant  background, 
is  Mount  Ancon.  a  beautiful  hill,  (530  feet  high.  On  each  side 
of  Ancon  are  flat  hills,  with  copses  of  wood  and  savannas, 
grassy  slopes,  and  wild  thickets,  while  to  the  southward  the 
cultivated  islets  of  Perico  and  Flamenco  complete  a  scene 
which,  says  Dampier,  makes  'one  of  the  finest  objects  that  I 
ever  did  see,  in  America,  especially.' 

"  The  expectations  formed  in  viewing  the  city  from  the  sea 
are  by  no  means  realized  on  landing.  The  principal  streets 
extend  across  the  peninsula  and  are  intersected  by  tlie  Calle 
Real  running  east  and  west,  which  has  a  quiet  and  stately 
but  comfortless  air.  The  houses  are  of  stone,  mostly  in  the 
old  Spanish  style,  the  larger  ones  with  courts  and  patios. 
The  public  edifices,  comprising  cathedral,  churches,  con- 
vents, nunnery,  college,  theater,  and  market,  are  partly  in 
ruins.  The  cathedral,  a  large  lofty  building  on  the  west  side 
of  the  plaza,  is  hardh'  worthy  of  its  situation,  onl}^  the  towers 
redeeming  it  from  insignificance  and  forming  in  the  distance 
an  ornament  to  the  citv.     The  fortifications  were  well  con- 


118  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

structed,  but  are  in  partial  ruins,  the  northeast  bastion  hav- 
ing fallen  in  1845.  The  south  and  west  ramparts  are  in  fair 
condition  and  form  a  pleasant  promenade.  Drainage  is  neg- 
lected, though  the  elevation  of  the  peninsula  on  which  the 
city  stands,  together  with  the  great  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide, 
offers  considerable  advantages  for  cleansing,  a  duty  at  pres- 
ent performed  by  the  heavy  rains  of  the  wet  season.  In  1901 
the  police  force  of  the  city,  numbering  150,  Avas  reported  as 
efificieut,  well  uniformed,  and  well  armed.  The  city  was 
under  martial  law. 

"The  old  city  of  Panama,  built  in  1518,  which  was  taken 
and  destroj'ed  by  the  buccaneers  under  Morgan  in  1073,  stood 
at  the  mouth  of  a  creek,  about  4  miles  northeast  of  the  pres- 
ent city.  Old  Panama  was  larger  than  the  Panama  of  this 
day  and  a  jjlace  of  surprising  wealth.  The  spot  is  now 
deserted,  but  well  marked  hy  a  tower,  an  arch,  two  or  three 
piers  of  a  bridge,  and  some  fragments  of  wall.  In  the  afternoon, 
the  tower  is  still  a  conspicuous  object  from  the  anchorage. 

"Weather. — The  following  brief  synopsis  of  the  weather 
at  Panama  is  by  Mr.  J.  II.  Smith,  long  a  resident  of  the  city: 

"January,  February,  and  March. — Fresh  north  winds, 
fine  weather,  and  clear  sky. 

"April. — North  winds  decreasing,  with  frequent  calms  and 
light  southerly  airs  in  the  day;  latter  end  of  month,  occasional 
squalls  from  the  north  Ji  the  afternoon,  with  rain,  thunder, 
and  lightning. 

"May. — During  the  da}^ frequent  calms  and  light  southerly 
winds,  weather  becoming  cloudy,  and  occasional  fresh  squalls 
from  northeast  to  southeast,  with  rain. 

"June. — The  rainy  season  well  set  in,  breezes  dui-ing  the 
day  increasing  from  the  south,  with  squalls  and  heavy  rain; 
niglits  generally  clear,  with  light  land  breezes  from  the  nortli; 
latter  end  of  month  eight  or  ten  days  of  fine  weather  fre- 
quently occur. 

"July,  August,  and  September. — Moderate  south  winds, 
squalls,  and  rain;  duilng  the  equinox  four  to  six  days  of 
strong  south  winds  without  cessation  during  the  night,  and 
frequent  squalls  with  rain, 

" October. — South  winds,  squalls,  and  rain;  frequent  land 
winds  at  night  and  fine  west  winds. 

"November. — South  winds  decreasing,  with  frequent  inter- 
vals of  fine  weather  and  occasional  squalls  off  the  land. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  119 

"December. — First  i)art,  freqneut  calms  and  liglit  soiitli 
winds  during' the  day;  latter  part,  occasional  north  winds  and 
line  weather. 

"Sanitary  conditions. — The  habits  of  the  people  are  in 
general  most  uneleanlj^  and  the  sanitary  condition  is  bad. 
Yellow  fever,  remittent,  bilious,  and  pernicious  fevers  are 
endemic,  and  yellow  fever  was  considered  epidemic  in  July, 
1885.  No  reliable  information  can  be  obtained  as  to  the  mor- 
talit}'  of  the  port;  it  has  been  reported  as  high  as  40  per  diem 
during  the  sickly  season.  The  most  sickly  i^arts  of  the  3'ear 
are  at  the  changes  of  the  seasons.  It  is  considered  that  the 
prevailing  direction  of  the  wind  has  some  influence  on  the 
sanitary  state — that  the  northwest  winds  are  healthful  and 
the  southeast  winds  unhealthful.  During  the  wet  season 
calms  and  light  variable  winds  prevail,  the  air  is  laden  with 
moisture,  and  it  is  very  oppressive.  At  the  canal  company's 
observatory  on  Naos  Island  the  highest  temperature  was  102° 
F.  and  the  lowest  66°  F. 

"Hospitals. — The  foreign  hospital,  built  and  owned  by 
the  canal  company,  situated  on  high  ground  at  the  foot  of 
Mount  Ancon,  is  well  managed  and  clean,  with  a  capacity  of 
about  2,000.  The  cost  of  occupation  is  $2  and  '^5  per  day  for 
a  separate  room.  Two  regular  physicians  are  in  attendance. 
A  sanitarium  on  Taboga  Island  is  connected  with  the  hospital. 

"The  St.  Thomas  Hospital,  a  charity  institution,  situated 
in  the  city  and  subsidized  b}'  the  Government,  is  diit}'  and 
not  well  kept.  The  capacity  is  about  100  and  cost  of  occupa- 
tion II  per  day. 

"Supplies. — Supplies  may  be  had,  but  it  is  considered 
unsafe  to  buy  them  on  account  of  the  bad  sanitarj^  condition 
of  the  place  and  the  consequent  danger  of  infection.  Light- 
ers for  the  transportation  of  stores  may  be  hired  from  the 
railway  comijany.  Fresh  provisions  in  ample  quantity  and 
of  fair  quality  can  be  purchased  as  required.  Prices  i^aid  by 
the  U.  S.  S.  Iowa  in  October,  1901:  Fresh  beef,  12^  cents; 
vegetables,  8  cents;  bread,  8  cents.  All  kinds  of  fruit  are 
obtainable.  Ice  can  be  obtained  in  large  quantities.  Sand 
is  obtained  from  Perico  Island.  Good  water  can  be  obtained 
from  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Companj'  at  Flamenco 
Island  or  from  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  at 
Taboga  Island,  being  brought  alongside  and  pumped  into  the 
tanks  by  steam  pumps  at  a  cost  of  2  cents  per  gallon.     The 


120  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

loiixi  was  supplied  by  the  Panama  Railroad  Company,  by 
steam  water  l)oat,  capacity  50,()00  gallons,  at  0.0  cent  per 
gallon. 

"  Coaling  Facilities. — Cumberland,  Cardiff,  Welsh,  New 
Castle,  and  Australian  coal  can  be  obtained  from  the  Panama 
Railroad  Company,  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company,  and 
the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company,  which  companies 
keep  large  quantities  on  hand,  though  it  is  said  that  the 
steamship  companies  will  not  part  with  awy  coal  when  it  can 
be  purchased  elsewhere.  The  coal  is  delivered  alongside  in 
lighters  holding  from  150  to  250  tons,  at  a  cost  per  ton  of  from 
$13  to  117.  Coal  may  be  obtained  directly  from  the  ship  or 
collier,  which  greatly  lessens  the  danger  of  fever.  The  Iowa 
was  supplied  by  the  Panama  Railroad  Company  with  100 
tons  per  week  of  Pocahontas  coal,  at  $0.50  gold  per  ton; 
supply  reported  as  i^lentiful. 

"Telegraph  and  postal  communication. — Panama  is 
connected  by  cable  with  South  American  and  Central  Ameri- 
can ports,  and  hy  land  line  with  Colon,  and  thence  by  cable 
with  Jamaica  and  the  West  Indies.  The  line  to  the  United 
States  and  Europe  is  by  way  of  the  Tehuantepec  Isthmus, 
the  City  of  Mexico,  and  Galveston,  Tex.  Postal  communica- 
tion with  the  United  States  is  by  the  Panama  Railroad  Com- 
pany's steamers  from  Colon ;  with  Central  America,  Mexico, 
and  San  Francisco  by  the  Pacific  Mail  and  other  steamers, 
and  with  South  American  ports  hy  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific 
Steam  Navigation  Company  and  the  South  American  Steam- 
shii)  Compan}'.  Mails  from  the  United  States  are  at  times 
irregular. 

'"Steamer  lines. — Panama  is  a  termiiml  point  or  port  of 
call  of  four  lines  of  steamers,  viz ; 

"(1)  The  Pacific  Mail  line  to  San  Francisco,  three  times  a 
month,  calling  at  Central  American  and  Mexican  ports. 

""  (2)  The  Panama  Railroad  Steamship  line  to  San  Francisco 
direct. 

"(3)  The  Paeifi('  Steam  Navigation  Companj-'s  line  from 
Coronel,  Valparaiso,  and  intermediate  i)orts  to  San  Francisco 
and  intermediate  ports;  also  line  of  this  company  from  South 
American  ports  to  Acapulco  and  way  ports;  and  line  from 
South  American  ports  to  Ocos  and  way  ports. 

"  (4)  The  Compania  Sud-Amerieana  de  ^'apores  Line,  with 
the  same  itinerar}^  and  alternating  in  service  with  the  j)re- 


WOTES    ON    PANAMA.  121 

cediiiir  company,  Lota  (Chile)  being  tlie  extreme  southern 
point,  however,  instead  of  Corouel. 

"  The  rate  for  first-class  passengers  from  New  York  to  San 
Fi-aneiseo  is  81()o,  and  from  NeAv  York  to  Valparaiso  t?240. 

"  Commerce. — 'J'he  commerce  and  trade  of  Panama  is  natu- 
rally divided  into  two  parts,  the  local  and  the  transit.  The 
latter  is  also  divided  into  two  parts,  that  with  the  United 
States  and  that  with  Europe.  The  entire  local  trade  of 
Panama  with  the  United  States  for  the  year  1885  amounted 
to  .$3, 728,061  of  exports  and  $4,263,519  of  imports. 

"  The  local  exports  are  India  rubber  (which  is  becoming- 
scarcer),  gold  dust,  hides,  ivorj^  nuts,  manganese,  shells,  to- 
bacco, cocobolo  (a  cabinet  wood),  tortoise  shells,  vanilla, 
whale  oil,  sarsaparilla,  cocoanuts,  and  fruit.  From  South 
America  the  bulk  of  the  shipments  consists  of  bark,  cotton, 
cocoa,  and  rubber;  from  the  Central  American  States,  of 
coffee,  sugar,  and  indigo. 

"Panama  is  normally  a  free  port,  but  import  duties  are 
levied  on  tobacco  in  all  its  forms,  salted  or  preserved  meats, 
wines,  spirits,  ales,  beer,  ginger  beer,  cider,  salt,  etc.  Recent 
reports  state  that  there  is  a  customs  duty  of  15  per  cent  on 
all  goods,  with  an  increase  on  spirits. 

"In  shipping  stores  for  naval  vessels  on  the  coast  to  the 
care  of  the  consul-general  at  Panama  it  is  al)solutely  neces- 
sary that  they  should  be  accompanied  b}'  complete  invoices 
stating  the  contents  of  each  package,  the  weight  thereof,  and 
the  cost  value.  Small  parcels  must  also  be  accompanied  by 
a  statement  of  contents  and  value  addressed  to  the  consul- 
general  or  to  the  person  to  whose  care  they  are  consigned. 

"Machine  shops. — The  Pacific  Mail  Company  has  a  small 
machine  shop  on  Xaos  Island  for  repairing  vessels  of  the  line, 
and  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  has  a  similar  one 
at  Taboga  Island.  There  are  no  docks  at  Panama;  the  grid- 
iron at  Taboga  is  the  only  means  of  effecting  repairs  to  ves- 
sels' hulls. 

"Landing  place. — The  general  landing  place  at  high  water 
is  around  Buey  Point  inside  the  northeast  bastion,  at  the 
market  place  known  as  'the  steps.'  Great  care  is  required 
when  landing  at  Panama  in  steam  cutters  or  other  heavy 
boats,  which  can  be  effected  only  at  nearly  high  water.  Land- 
ing is  made  in  small  boats  irom  ships'  boats  at  Hotel  Marina 
landing.     Boats  going  in  should  pass  southward  of  the  outer 


122  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

white  beacon  and  leave  all  the  other  beacons  on  the  port 
hand. 

"The  Panama  Railroad,  47  statute  miles  long-,  extending 
to  Colon,  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  Isthmus,  is  an  asset  of 
the  bankrupt  Panama  Canal  Company,  which  holds  nearly  all 
of  the  stock.  Culebra,  the  station  at  the  highest  point  of  the 
road,  is  probably,  with  the  exception  of  the  Nicaragua  divide, 
the  lowest  point  in  the  range  of  mountains  that  extends  from 
North  America  all  the  way  through  South  America,  being 
252.4  feet  above  mean  sea  level. 

"The  road,  which  was  built  b}^  an  American  comj)any  be- 
tween 1850  and  1855,  is  a  broad-gage,  single-track  line,  with 
a  maximum  grade  of  76.6  feet  to  the  mile.  The  rate  for  first- 
class  passengers  between  Panama  and  Colon,  formerly  $25, 
is  now  14  in  American  gold. 

"At  Colon  connection  is  made  for  ports  of  the  Spanish  Main, 
the  West  Indies,  and  all  parts  of  Europe  by  steamers  of  the 
Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Company,  Leyland  Line,  Harrison 
Line,  Compagnie  Generale  Transatlantique,  Hamburg- Ameri- 
can Packet  Company,  La  Veloce  (Italian),  and  Compania 
Transatlantica  Espaflola.  The  steamers  of  the  Panama  Rail- 
road Steamship  line  leave  Colon  for  New  York  every  Tues- 
day; time  seven  days. 

"The  Panama  Ship  Canal,  to  connect  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  oceans,  is  planned  to  follow  much  the  same  route  as 
that  of  the  railway  from  Colon  to  Panama,  the  length  to  be 
40.09  statute  miles  from  the  6-fatliom  line  in  the  harbor  of 
Colon  to  the  8-fathom  line  in  Panama  road,  and  the  depth  35 
feet,  with  a  minimum  bottom  width  of  150  feet,  as  planned 
for  the  Nicaragua  route.  The  special  difficulties  to  be  en- 
countered are  the  deep  cut  of  the  summit  level  at  Culebra  and 
the  Bohio  Dam  for  the  impounding  and  control  of  the  waters 
of  the  Chagres  River  and  its  tributaries.  The  summit  level 
of  the  canal,  that  of  Lake  Bohio,  this  level  being  carried  com- 
pletely through  the  Culebra  Cut,  will  be  nearly  22  miles  in 
length  and  in  general  85  feet  above  mean  sea  level,  with  ex- 
treme fluctuation  between  82  and  92  feet.  It  will  be  reached 
by  two  locks  on  the  Atlantic  side,  both  at  the  Bohio  Dam, 
and  by  three  locks  on  the  Pacific  side,  two  at  Pedro  Miguel 
and  one  at  Miraflores,  the  latter  point  being  1.33  miles  nearer 
Panama.  The  cost  of  construction  to  complete  the  canal  on 
these  lines,  taking  advantage  of  the  work  alread}^  done,  is 


N0TP:S    on    PANAMA.  123 

estimated  by  tlie  Istliiniaii  Canal  Conunission  at  about 
$145,000,000. 

"The  natural  attractions  of  the  Panama  ronte  lie  in  the 
combination  of  a  very  narrow  isthmns  with  a  low  .summit. 
The  width  of  the  Isthmus  iu  a  straight  line  is  less  than  35 
statute  miles,  while  the  summit  is  barely  300  feet  above  mean 
tide,  which,  though  higlier  thau  the  Nicaragua  summit,  is  less 
than  half  the  height  of  any  other  that  has  been  investigated. 
The  high  portion  of  the  Isthmus  is  limited  to  a  width  of  about 
6  miles  near  the  Pacific  side,  and  tlie  Chagres  River  affords 
access  by  canoe  navigation  to  within  15  miles  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean. 

"Consuls. — The  United  States  is  represented  at  Panama 
by  a  consul-general  and  a  vice-consul-general.  Great  Britain 
and  France  by  consnls,  and  many  other  countries  by  honor- 
ary consular  officers. 

"Port  officials. — There  is  a  captain  of  the  port,  who  is 
also  the  health  officer,  but  it  appears  that  he  does  not  board 
incoming  vessels  and  quarantine  is  not  very  strictly  enforced.^' 
The  quarantine  station  is  near  Taboguilla  Island.  Pilots  ai-e 
not  required  except  for  La  Boca  channel,  for  which  the  ijilot 
is  furnished  by  the  Panama  Railroad  Company. 

"Official  calls. — The  governor  of  the  Department  of 
Panama  and  the  President  of  the  Republic,  when  present, 
are  the  onlj^  native  officials  to  be  called  on.  A  saluting  bat- 
tery has  recently  been  established  on  shore  and  salutes  are 
promptly  returned. " 

"Directions. — Sailing  vessels  bound  to  Panama,  especiajiy 
betAveen  December  and  June,  should  endeavor  to  get  within 
3  or  4  miles  of  Chepillo  Island,  which  lies  near  the  coast  north 
of  the  Pearl  Islands,  and  so  have  all  the  advantage  of  the 
northerly  wind.  From  this  position  Ancon  Hill,  behind  the 
city,  will  be  seen  and  should  be  kept  a  little  on  the  port  bow, 
as  the  wind  draws  to  the  westward  on  approaching  the  city. 
Vessels  drawing  over  18  feet  should  pass  south  of  the  Danaide 
Rocks  bj^  keeping  San  Jose  Rock  open  to  the  westward  of 
Taboga  Island  until  the  cathredal  towers  are  open  to  the 
northward  of  Ancon.  Having  passed  the  Danaide,  the  ship 
is  fairly  in  the  road  and  maj^  anchor  according  to  her  draft. 
If  not  more  than  18  feet,  she  may  have  Tortola  just  shut  in  hy 

«  Report  from  U.  S.  S.  loica,  September  9, 1901. 


124  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Naos,  bearino-  8.  30°  W.  (S.  25°  W.  mag.),  and  San  Jose  open 
east  of  Tabogiiilla.  Larger  vessels,  drawing  24  feet,  may 
anchor  northeastward  of  Perico,  with  XJrava  Pealc  in  range 
with  the  east  point  of  Flamenco  bearing  S.  6°  W.  (S.  1°  W. 
mag. ),  taking  care  not  to  open  Changarmi  northward  of  Perico. 
If  necessar}'  to  work  up  the  road  to  an  inshore  berth,  a  vessel 
should  tack  on  the  western  side  just  before  Perico  and  Fla- 
menco touch,  and  in  standing  to  the  eastward  avoid  closing 
San  Jose  with  Taboga  Island,  or  Tortola  with  Flamenco. 

"Vessels  d)-awing  14  feet  may  pass  northward  of  Danaide 
and  south  of  Sulphur  Rock,  with  Hermanos  Rocks  on  with 
the  right  side  of  the  peak  between  the  rivers  Farfan  and 
Grande;  then  San  Jose  Rock  on  with  the  peak  of  Tabogiiilla, 
bearing  south  (S.  5°  E.  mag.),  leads  between  Sulphur  Rocks 
and  the  Knocker  to  an  anchorage  north  of  the  buoy,  in  16 
feet,  keeping  it  between  Perico  and  Flamenco,  with  Uabilan, 
a  roek}^  peninsula  west  of  the  town,  just  shut  in  by  the  south- 
east bastion.  During  neap  tides  anchorage  more  to  the  nortli- 
west  may  be  taken. 

"Coast. — From  Petillo  Point  to  the  Chepo  River  an  exten- 
sive mud  flat  borders  the  coast  the  entire  distance,  fronted 
by  a  shoal  bank,  the  edge  of  which  lies  from  3  to  5  miles  from 
shore.  Numerous  small  streams  intersect  the  shore  line. 
Vessels  should  not  stand  into  less  than  6  fathoms  between 
Panama  and  Chepillo  Island. 

"Chepo  River,  w^hich  enters  the  Bay  of  Panama  about  25 
miles  eastward  of  the  city,  comes  from  some  distance  in  the 
interior,  its  source  being  far  to  the  eastward,  near  the  head- 
waters of  the  Savannah  River.  The  entrance  is  to  the  west- 
ward of  Chepillo  Island,  through  a  10-foot  channel  about  600 
yards  wide.  A  small  hill  with  a  cliff  under  it  on  the  east- 
ern bank,  steered  for  on  a  bearing  N.  54°  E.  (N.  49°  E.  mag.), 
will  lead  through  the  deepest  water. 

"The  San  Blas  Canal  route,  much  recommended  by 
the  narrowness  of  the  Isthmus  at  this  point  (27  miles),  was 
carefulh'  examined  in  1870  by  Commander  Selfridge,  U.  S. 
Navy.  The  route  ascends  the  Chepo  River  12  miles,  and 
then  tlie  r\Iamoni,  a  tributarj^  from  the  northward,  to  its  sonrce; 
thence  it  crosses  the  divide,  with  an  elevation  of  1,142  feet, 
and  descends  by  the  Maud  inga  River  to  the  Gulf  of  San  Bias. 
A  tunnel  of  10  miles  would  be  required  to  connect  cuts  of  190 
feet  on  either  side  of  the  divide.     For  the  remaining  16  miles 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  125 

the  excavation  would  not  exceed  an  average  of  GO  feet.  The 
vast  expenditure  for  so  lon^  a  tunnel  renders  this  route, 
otherwise  so  prepossessing,  of  questionable  practicability. 

"The  most  complete  plan  developed  by  the  Isthmian  Canal 
Commission  for  this  route  involves  a  tunnel  at  least  7  miles 
long,  which,  while  considered  not  necessarily  impracticable, 
would  be  very  objectionable,  and  renders  this  line  inferior  to 
that  of  Panama  or  Nicaragua. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  at  the  mouth  of 
Chepo  River  is  at  o  h.  40  m. ;  tides  rise  about  16  feet. 

"  Chepillo  Island,  described  by  Dampier  as  the  most 
pleasant  island  in  Panama  Bay,  lying  off  the  mouth  of  Chepo 
River  about  21  miles  eastward  of  Panama  and  2  miles  from 
the  coast,  is  1  mile  long  by  one-half  mile  broad,  and  very 
fertile.  It  is  low  on  the  north  side,  and  rises  by  a  gentle 
ascent  toward  the  south  end,  over  which  is  a  remarkable 
tree  that  forms  an  excellent  mark  to  vessels  bound  up  the 
bay.  The  south  end  may  be  approached  within  a  mile,  but 
the  other  sides  are  shoal,  and  a  reef  extends  three-fourths 
mile  off  the  north  point,  following  the  direction  of  the  channel. 

"  Pelado  Islet,  lying  '6H  miles  southea.stward  of  Chepillo 
Island  and  4  miles  west  of  Mangue  Islet,  directly  off  the 
mouth  of  Chiman  River,  is  flat,  of  small  extent,  about  00  feet 
high,  and  treeless,  but  covered  with  a  coarse  prickly  shrub; 
it  is  steep-to  on  all  sides  and  forms  a  useful  mark  for  vessels 
bound  to  Panama. 

"The  coast  between  Chepillo  Island  and  Pelado  Islet  con- 
sists of  low  river  land  with  mangrove  bushes.  Of  the  sev- 
eral small  streams,  the  principal  are  the  Hondo  and  Corutu, 
both  being  shoal  at  the  entrance.  The  land  north  of  these 
rivers  is  of  some  elevation;  Column  Peak  and  Asses'  Ears, 
about  12  miles  north  of  Chiman  River,  and  Thumb  Peak,  at 
the  west  extreme  of  the  range,  are  conspicuous.  Extensive 
mud  flats,  dry  at  low  water,  extend  from  1  to  4  miles  from 
the  coast,  and  outside  of  the  flats  is  a  shoal  bank  the  outer 
edge  of  which  lies  7  miles  from  the  shore.  Vessels  standing 
in  shore  should  tack  in  9  fathoms. 

"Chiman  River,  32  miles  southeastward  of  Chepo  River, 
is  wide  at  the  mouth,  but  shoal,  being  nearly  dry  at  low  water, 
with  small  channels  for  canoes.  The  entrance  is  well  marked 
by  the  Avooded  bluffs  on  each  side,  the  Mangue  Islet  to  the 
southward,  and  Pelado  Islet  in  the  offing.    On  the  eastern  side. 


126  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

under  a  hill,  is  the  small  village  of  Cliiman.  This  is  the  j)oint 
to  which  Pizarro  retired  in  1525  after  beating  about  for  seventy 
daj's,  with  much  danger  and  incessant  fatigue,  without  being- 
able  to  make  any  advance  to  the  southward.  He  was  here 
joined  bj'  Almagro,  and  the  following  year  they  sailed  again 
for  Peru. 

"Mangue  and  Majaguay  are  high  and  wooded  islets 
lying,  respectivelj%  3  miles  and  2  miles  south  of  the  east  en- 
trance point  of  Chiman  River,  and  at  the  western  edge  of  a 
large  mud  flat,  dry  at  low  w^ater,  which  extends  to  the  north 
bank  of  Trinidad  River.  There  are  10  to  12  feet  of  water  to 
the  westward  of  the  islets. 

"  Trinidad  River,  about  9  miles  southeastward  of  Chiman 
River,  has  a  low  rocky  projection  forming  its  southern  point 
of  entrance.  A  3-fathom  channel  was  found  into  this  river, 
extending  1^  miles  from  the  point,  beyond  wiiicli  distance  it 
was  not  examined.  The  northern  bank  of  the  ri\'er  is  com- 
posed of  mangroves,  which  continue  along  the  coast  from  here 
to  Panama,  a  distance  of  nearl}^  70  miles,  except  where  inter- 
rupted by  the  bluffs  of  the  rivers  Chiman  and  Chepo.  Shag 
Rock,  a  barren  islet  with  shoal  water  around  it,  frequented 
by  birds,  lies  2|  miles  northward  of  the  entrance. 

"The  Pajaros  are  two  small  rocky  islets,  lying  between 
2  and  3  miles  south  of  the  south  entrance  point  of  Trinidad 
River  and  1|  miles  from  the  coast,  with  4  and  5  fathoms 
off  their  west  sides,  but  only  12  feet  between  them  and  the 
shore.  From  Chame  Point,  southwest  of  Panama,  to  these 
islets,  the  whole  shore  of  Panama  Bay  is  fronted  by  a  shoal 
with  5  fathoms  on  its  outer  edge. 

"  South  Farallon  Ingles  is  a  small  but  high  island,  lying 
about  8  miles  southward  of  the  Pajaros  and  19  miles  south- 
eastward of  Pelade  Islet,  at  the  edge  of  the  shoal  off  the  river 
Buenaventura,  with  12  and  15  feet  of  water  on  its  western 
side.  North  Farallon  lies  three-fourths  mile  to  the  northward 
and  three-eighths  mile  fi'om  the  west  entrance  point  to  the  river. 
It  was  in  this  river,  in  1681,  that  Dampier  and  his  party, 
being  prevented  by  the  Spaniards  from  going  by  way  of  the 
Santa  Maria  or  Chepo  rivers,  sank  their  ship  when  starting 
on  their  journey  to  the  Atlantic;  this  they  reached  in  twenty- 
three  days  at  a  point  near  Concepcion  cays,  60  miles  west- 
ward of  Golden  Island  in  Caledonia  Baj',  having  traveled 
110  miles  and  crossed  some    high  mountains,  though  their 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  127 

common  marcli  was  in  the  valleys,  among  deep  and  dangerous 
rivers. 

"GoRDA  Point,  4  miles  northward  of  the  South  Farallon,  is 
bold  and  woody,  with  4  fathoms  close-to;  above  this  point 
there  is  less  swell  than  to  the  southward  of  it. 

"  Brava  Point  and  San  Lorenzo  Point,  2  miles  to  the  east- 
ward of  Brava,  lie  on  the  north  side  of  the  entrance  to  San 
Miguel  Bay;  both  are  edged  with  reefs  and  outlying  rocks 
on  which  the  sea  breaks  with  great  violence,  and  this  fact, 
together  with  the  proximity  of  the  Buey  Bank,  makes  this 
part  of  the  coast  dangerous,  and  it  should  be  avoided  even  by 
small  vessels. 

"Buey  Bank,  lying  about  a  mile  south  of  Brava  Point,  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  entrance  to  San  Miguel  Bay,  is  an 
extensive  shoal  about  3  miles  in  diameter,  which  dries  in 
patches  at  low  water  and  on  Avhich  a  heavy  sea  breaks.  A 
I^assage  five-eighths  mile  wide,  with  4  to  5  fathoms,  lies  be- 
tween the  bank  and  the  shore,  but  subject  to  a  heavy  swell 
and  not  recommended  for  use.  A  spit  with  12  feet  of  water 
extends  Ij  miles  off  the  southwest  side  of  the  bank,  and  out- 
side the  spit  the  water  deepens  very  gradually,  the  5-fathoni 
line  lying  about  3  miles  to  the  westward  and  2  miles  to  the 
southward. 

"San  Miguel  Bay,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Gulf  of 
Panama,  is  154^  miles  wide  between  the  entrance  points,  Brava 
on  the  north  and  Garachineon  the  south,  and  penetrates  within 
the  points  about  20  miles  to  the  eastward.  Between  San  Lo- 
renzo Point  and  Patena  Point  to  the  southeastward,  the  bay 
narrows  to  about  7^  miles,  expands  again  within  to  11  miles, 
and  agaiu  narrows  to  4|  miles  between  Pierce  and  Virgin 
points;  thence  continues  a  curved  and  gradually  narrowing 
channel,  terminating  in  the  land-locked  and  sj)acious  Darien 
Harbor,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  rivers  Savannah  and 
Tuyra. 

"Across  the  entrance  of  the  bay  and  for  about  9  miles  sea- 
ward extends  a  flat  bottom  with  depths  from  5  to  8  fathoms, 
but  the  water  gradually  deepens  within  the  ba}',  and  through 
the  Boca  Grande  the  depths  are  from  11  to  16  fathoms.  Across 
the  entrance  flat  a  depth  of  7^  fathoms  can  be  carried,  and 
thence  to  Darien  Harbor  more  than  8  fathoms. 

"San  Miguel  Bay  was  well  known  to  the  buccaneers,  who 
used  it  as  the  entrance  to  the  Pacific  and  terminus  of  their 

W.  T.  CONWAY 

Ut  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 


128  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

overlaud  jouruej's  from  the  Gulf  of  Darien,  which  the}'  geu- 
erally  accomplished  in  about  teu  daj^s.  Careful  surveys  were 
made  in  1870  and  1871  ])y  naval  parties  under  Commander 
Selfridge,  U.  S.  Navy,  to  ascertain  the  feasibility  of  a  ship 
canal  between  this  point  and  tlie  Atlantic  coast  at  Caledonia 
Bay  and  the  Gulf  of  Darien,  but  the  different  routes  across 
this  part  of  the  Isthmus  were  found  to  be  quite  impracticable. 
The  route  by  way  of  the  Atrato,  the  Napipi,  and  the  Doguado 
rivers,  considered  b}"  Commander  Selfridge  as  the  most  f)rac- 
ticable  route  eastward  of  Panama,  terminates  on  the  Pacific 
at  Chiri-Chiri  Bay,  112  miles  below  Garachine  Point. 

"San  Lorenzo  Point  lies  2  miles  S.  76°  E.  from  Brava 
Point,  the  shore  between  them  receding  in  a  shoal-water  bight. 
A  reef  projects  about  2  miles  southeastwaid  from  the  point, 
and  on  the  reef  at  1:^  miles  from  the  point  are  the  Paul  Rocks, 
above  water. 

"From  San  Lorenzo  Point  the  shore  line  turns  sharply 
northward  and  sweeps  around  in  a  semicircular  curve  to  Pierce 
Point,  a  rock}'  projection  7  miles  to  the  northeastward,  form- 
ing within  these  points  North  Bay,  in  which  the  depths  are 
quite  regular  from  2f  to  2  fathoms.  A  mud  flat  borders  most 
of  the  shore  and  several  streams  enter  the  bay,  among  them 
being  the  rivers  Congo  and  Cupunadi.  In  the  western  i^art  of 
the  bay  is  a  shoal  bank  of  triangular  shape,  about  8  miles  on 
a  side,  with  depths  of  one-half  fathom,  and  on  this  bank  are 
the  islands  Iguana  and  Iguanita  and  the  Amelia  islets  and 
rocks.  Lost  Rock  lies  2  miles  north  of  San  Lorenzo  Point  and 
one-fourth  mile  from  shore. 

"From  Pierce  Point  a  reef  projects  about  three-fourths 
mile  to  the  southward,  with  a  rock  above  water  near  its  outer 
end.  McKinnon  Bay,  a  small  bight  with  shoal  water  at  the 
head,  lies  eastward  of  the  point  and  reef.  Peris  Point,  4 
miles  northeastward  of  Pierce  Point,  marks  a  sharp  turn  of 
the  shore  Hue  to  the  northward  at  the  beginning  of  the  Boca 
Grande. 

"Garachine  Point,  the  south  entrance  point  of  San  Miguel 
Bay,  is  at  the  extremity  of  a  peninsula  projecting  5^  miles 
northward  from  the  mainland,  with  an  average  breadth  of  2 
miles.  The  land  to  the  southward  and  eastward  of  the  penin- 
sula is  lofty,  Mount  Zapo — noticeable  as  a  sharp  conical  peak 
about  5  miles  from  the  coast — rising  to  an  elevation  of  3,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  A  high,  bold,  and  wooded  coast  appar- 
ently free  from  dangers  and  with  deep  water  close-to,  extends 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  129 

southward  about  30  miles  to  Piiias  Bay.  Cape  Escarpado, 
with  a  small  bight  just  above  it,  open  to  the  northwestward, 
lies  about  3  miles  southward  of  the  point. 

"  Garachine  Point  is  clean,  and  on  its  north  and  west  sides 
may  be  closely  skirted,  but  on  the  east  side  the  line  of  3 
fathoms  runs  eastward  from  the  extreme  point. 

"Garachixe  ok  South  Bay,  lying  within  Garachine  Point 
and  Patena  Point,  lit  niiles  to  the  northeastward,  is  shoal, 
with  a  low  mangrove  shore,  from  which  mud  banks  extend  to 
a  distance  of  3  miles.  These  flats  are  fronted  by  a  shoal  bank 
with  2  to  3  fathoms,  occupying  much  of  the  remaining  area 
of  the  ba}'.  Several  small  streams  enter  the  bay,  and  a  chan- 
nel with  one-half  fathom  of  water  leads  across  the  mud  flat 
to  the  mouth  of  the  River  Sambu.  Along  the  east  side  of  the 
Garachine  Peninsula  extends  a  tongue  of  water  with  a  depth 
of  2^  fathoms,  forming  a  small  harbor  with  anchorage  for 
small  vessels  near  Garachine  village,  a  small  collection  of 
huts  at  the  head,  where  enters  the  River  Alquitran. 

"Vessels  may  anchor  close-off  either  Garachine  or  Patena 
points,  the  depth  of  water  being  convenient. 

"Patena  Point  is  low,  sharp,  and  projecting,  with  Pate- 
nito  Islet  close  outside  and  deep  water  near  islet  and  point. 
Colorado  Point,  about  2f  miles  northeastward  of  Patena,  is 
bold  and  rocky,  with  a  conspicuous  i^atch  of  reddish  clay  on 
its  face ;  w'ithin  the  points  the  shore  recedes  about  1^  miles, 
forming  Charles  Bay.  From  (-olorada  to  Corales  Point,  If 
miles  to  the  northeastward,  the  shore  gradualh'  gets  lower, 
and  from  the  latter  point  sweeps  around  to  Virgin  Point, 
forming  a  bay,  with  low  mangrove  shores,  nearly  5  miles  wide 
between  the  jjoints;  at  the  head  is  Corales  village,  about  a 
mile  southeast  of  the  point,  with  anchorage  off  it  at  one-half 
mile;  the  shore  of  the  bay  is  bordered  by  shoal  water  to  the 
distance  of  three-eighths  to  three-fourths  mile,  outside  of 
which  are  apijareutly  no  dangers. 

"From  Virgin  Point  the  shore  line  in  its  general  trend 
turns  gradually  northward  for  nearly  5  miles  to  Virago  Point, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Boca  Chica ;  in  this  space  are  several  little 
bays  lined  with  mangrove,  the  points  generally  being  of  small 
elevation,  rocky,  and  covered  with  bush.  Bains  Bluff,  1  mile 
southward  of  Virago  Point,  should  be  avoided  on  account  of 
a  ledge  of  rocks  off  it  at  600  jards;  the  shore  between  the 
bluff  and  the  point  is  also  bordered  by  shoal  water. 
12312—03 9 


130  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"Cedar  or  Washington  Island,  S^  miles  northeast  of 
Corales  Point  and  H  miles  west  of  Virgin  Point,  is  about 
600  yards  long  and  wide  and  denselj^  covered  with  wood. 
Several  islets  and  rocks  extend  southward  from  it,  and  these, 
with  the  shoal  extending  from  the  opposite  shore,  take  up 
much  of  the  width  of  the  channel  on  tliis  side  of  the  island. 
The  best  and  most  direct  channel  up  the  bay  is  northward  of 
the  island,  and  between  it  and  Jones  Islet,  a  conspicuous  little 
rock  about  20  feet  high  and  covered  Avith  grass,  lying  1^  miles 
to  the  northwestward  of  Cedar,  both  being  clean  and  safe  of 
approach,  with  10  fathoms  in  mid-channel. 

"Strain  Island,  2^  miles  northeastward  of  Cedar  and  1:^ 
miles  from  the  eastern  shore,  is  about  25  feet  high  and  cov- 
ered with  trees  and  shrubs.  It  is  suri'ounded  by  a  ledge  of 
rocks,  extending  a  short  distance  off  it  toward  the  channel, 
and  is  connected  by  mud  banks  with  two  islands  westward 
of  it. 

Between  Strain  Island  and  the  western  shore  are  Jore}' 
Island,  a  chain  of  islets  called  Los  Gombales,  Edith  Islet,  and 
Mary  Islet,  all  forming  a  grou]3  within  the  o-fathom  line,  cov- 
ering an  area  of  2  miles  by  li  miles.  Strain  is  the  southeast- 
ernmost  of  the  group  and  nearest  the  channel. 

"Anchorage. — The  space  included  between  Cedar,  Jones, 
and  this  group  of  islets  appears  to  afford  the  most  favorable 
anchorage  for  vessels  not  wishing  to  enter  Darien  Harbor,  or 
obliged  to  wait  for  the  tide  in  order  to  do  so  on  account  of 
the  strong  tidal  currents  and  eddies  in  the  entrances. 

"Barry  Rock,  seven-eighths  mile  southwest  of  Sti-ain 
Island  and  three-eighths  mile  north  of  Seaford  Point,  is  20 
feet  high,  covered  with  cactuses,  and  surrounded  bj"  deep 
water;  the  channel  is  between  the  rock  and  the  island,  and 
has  a  depth  of  10  fathoms. 

"Stanley  Island,  low  and  wooded,  1^  miles  long  by  1 
mile  wide,  divides  the  channel  into  two  passages,  both  lead- 
ing into  Darien  Harbor;  the  principal  one,  the  Boca  Grande, 
forms  a  continuation  of  San  Miguel  Baj'  to  the  northward 
along  the  west  and  north  sides  of  the  island,  while  the  Boca 
Chica  skirts  its  south  side,  lying  between  the  island  and 
Virago  Poiiit. 

"The  Boca  Chica  has  on  either  side  of  its  outer  entrance 
a  dangerous  ledge  of  rocks,  the  passage  between  them  being 
but  about  200  yards  wide;  the  southern  ledge,  called  'Colum- 


fit  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 

NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  131 

bia  Rocks,'  projects  about  one-eighth  mile  westward  from 
Virago  Point  and  shows  only  at  low-water  spring  tides;  the 
Foley  Rocks  lie  along  the  north  side  of  the  channel,  extend- 
ing nearly  one-fourth  mile  westward  from  the  south  point 
of  the  island,  and  uncovering  at  half  tide;  north  of  this  ledge 
is  Trevan  Islet.  At  three-eighths  mile  within  the  entrance 
the  channel  narrows  to  about  50  yards,  the  width  between 
the  shores  being  less  than  200  yards.  A  small  ledge  makes 
out  a  short  distance  from  Buena  Vista,  the  southeast  point 
of  Stanley  Island,  having  passed  which  the  vessel  will  be  in 
Darien  Harbor,  and  may  anchoi",  as  convenient,  in  5  to  10 
fathoms,  sand  and  mud. 

"Although  the  Boca  Chica  carries  a  low- water  deptli  of  5 
fathoms,  its  use  is  not  recommended,  unless  at  slack  water, 
for  during  the  strength  of  the  tide  the  velocity  of  the  stream 
reaches  G  to  7  knots,  and  the  eddies  make  steerage  difficult. 

"Leading  Mark. — The  northwest  extreme  of  Jorey  Island 
and  the  middle  of  Mary  Islet  in  line,  S.  58°  W.  (S.  53°  W. 
mag.),  clears  the  rocks  in  the  entrance  of  the  Boca  Chica. 
When  past  these  rocks  a  vessel  should  keep  in  mid-channel, 
and  when  past  the  reef  off  Buenavista  Point  haul  a  little  to 
the  northward,  to  give  Price  Point  a  berth  of  150  yards. 

"The  Boca  Grande  is  a  little  over  a  mile  wide  at  the 
entrance,  between  the  rocks  outside  the  Boca  Chica  and  Milne 
Island,  on  the  western  shore,  and  continues  for  1^  miles  at 
about  the  same  width  between  Stanley  Island  and  the  shore. 
A  dangerous  rock,  only  showing  at  about  three-fourths  ebb 
and  connected  hy  a  ledge  with  the  island,  lies  off  its  north- 
west point,  and  from  the  opposite  shore  a  shoal  extends  five- 
eighths  of  a  mile,  leaving  between  rock  and  shoal  a  width  of  five- 
eighths  of  a  mile  for  the  navigable  channel;  this  now  bends  to 
the  eastward  and  continues  of  the  same  width  between  Ray 
and  Jeannette  islands  on  the  north,  and  a  large,  fiat  rock, 
nearly  always  uncovered,  and  a  small  wooded  island,  about 
a  cable  off  Stanley,  on  the  south;  then  bending  southeast- 
ward it  continues  between  Ellen  and  Paley  islands  on  the  west 
and  the  main  shore  on  the  east  into  Darien  Harbor,  graduallj^ 
broadening  after  passing  the  former  island  and  attaining  a 
width  of  nearly  2  miles  abreast  of  the  Boca  Chica. 

"Savannah  Point  is  the  southern  extremity  of  the  long, 
low  peninsula  separating  for  a  distance  of  5  miles  the  Savan- 
nah River  from  the  Boca  Grande.     Foul  ground  borders  the 


132  NOTES    ON    PANAMA, 

point,  extending  off  one-fourth  mile,  and  at  tliat  distance 
south  of  the  point  is  a  small  islet  with  deep  water  close  along 
its  southern  edge.  Graham  Point,  one-half  mile  beyond 
Savannah,  marks  the  entrance  of  the  river,  and  has  close  off 
it  the  tiny  islet  La  Pantila. 

"  Vaguila  Rock,  showing  at  about  half  tide,  lies  a  little 
over  one-half  mile  south  of  Savannah  Point.  There  is  a  good 
channel  three-eighths  mile  wide  between  the  rock  and  the 
islet  off  the  point,  with  9  to  11  fathoms  of  water. 

"Directions. — To  pass  through  the  Boca  Grande:  After 
passing  Barry  Rock  a  vessel  may  haul  up  for  the  southwest 
end  of  Stanley  Island,  keeping  on  the  range  of  Barry  Rock 
and  Virgin  Point  until  Jones  Islet  comes  in  range  with  Strain 
Island;  then  steer  to  pass  about  one-fourth  mile  from  Milne 
Island,  and  as  soon  as  Mar}^  Island  is  shut  in  b3'  Milne  steer 
for  Ray  Island,  keeping  the  east  end  of  Edith  Island  a  little 
open  of  Milne;  following  the  channel,  pass  Ray  at  one-fourth 
mile,  and  as  soon  as  Ellen  Island  opens  from  Turk  Island  haul 
to  the  southward,  giving  these  islands  and  then  Paley  Island 
a  berth  of  one-fourth  mile  to  starboard,  and  anchor,  as  con- 
venient, in  5  to  10  fathoms;  bottom,  sand  and  mud. 

"  Daeien  Harbor,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Tuyra 
and  Savannah  rivers,  extends  in  a  southeasterly  direction 
from  the  Boca  (Grande  to  the  village  of  Chipigana,  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Tuyra,  a  distance  of  11  miles,  with  a  width 
of  4  miles  in  the  northern  part  and  2  miles  at  the  village. 
The  depth  of  water  is  from  7  to  10  fathoms  from  Paley  Island 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Savannah,  beyond  which  it  shoals  rapidly, 
almost  the  entire  harbor  having  a  uniform  depth  of  from  13 
to  17  feet.  Off  Chipigana  there  is  a  depth  of  3f  fathoms  for 
an  area  of  about  1  mile  by  1^  miles,  affording  excellent  anchor- 
age for  vessels  not  exceeding  that  draft,  to  which  it  is  access- 
ible by  taking  advantage  of  the  tides.  During  spring  tides, 
which  here  rise  22  feet,  the  currents  both  of  ebb  and  flood 
run  at  this  point  with  great  velocity,  and  especially  is  this 
the  case  during  freshets,  when  it  is  oftentimes  difficult  for  a 
vessel  to  remain  at  anchor. 

"The  shores  of  the  harbor  are  almost  a  continuous  line  of 
mangrove,  intersected  by  numerous  small  streams,  with 
densely  wooded  hills  from  100  to  300  feet  high  a  short  dis- 
tance inland.  Chipigana  is  a  town  of  about  600  inhabitants, 
mostly  negroes,  of  which  race  almost  the  whole  population  of 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  133 

Darien  is  composed.  The  houses  are  built  of  bamboo,  and 
eventhing  is  of  the  most  primitive  description,  a  comiDromise 
between  barbarism  and  civilization, 

"  La  Palma  Village,  on  the  west  shore,  just  at  the  inner 
entrance  to  the  Boca  Grande  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  shoal 
water  of  the  harbor,  appears  to  be  situated  at  the  best  i^oint, 
and  has  an  abundance  of  fresh  water. 

"  Anchorage. — The  best  place  for  anchorage  is  in  7  to  10 
fathoms  off  Palma  Village,  about  a  mile  southeastward  of 
Price  Point  and  60()  j'ards  from  shore. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  in  Darien  Harbor 
is  at  4h.  15m. ;  the  mean  rise  and  fall  of  tide  is  16  feet.  The 
tidal  streams  in  the  narrows  are  verj^  strong,  especially  at  the 
time  of  springs,  which  are  said  to  rise  24  feet.  Great  care  is 
required  in  the  navigation,  and  it  would  seem  advisable,  at 
least  for  a  sti-anger,  to  wait  for  slack  water  before  attempt- 
ing the  passages. 

"Productions. — All  tropical  productions  of  the  Western 
Hemisphere  can  be  grown  here.  Maize,  rice,  sugar,  coffee, 
cocoa,  yams,  and  plantains  grow  almost  wild;  mahogany  can 
be  had  in  abundance;  also  the  palm  and  the  india-rubber  tree 
abound.  This  fine  harbor,  with  its  extensive  rivers  pene- 
trating into  the  interior,  in  the  hands  of  an  energetic  peojjle 
that  would  cultivate  the  fertile  soil  of  the  region,  would  soon 
become  a  place  of  importance. 

"  Climate. — There  is  a  rainy  and  a  dry  season,  the  former 
beginning  in  May  and  lasting  until  November,  accompanied 
by  lightning  and  thunder  and  winds  peculiar  to  the  Gulf  of 
Panama;  for  the  other  six  months  of  the  year  the  weather  is 
fine.  With  common  care,  the  countrj'  is  comparatively 
health}'. 

"TuYRA  River,  the  Santa ^  Maria  of  the  Spaniards  and 
buccaneers,  rises  in  latitude  7°  40'  N.  and  enters  Darien 
Harbor  near  the  village  of  Chipigana.  About  26  miles  above 
this  village  and  a  mile  above  the  junction  of  the  river  Chu- 
cunaqua  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  Spanish  fort  of  Santa  Maria, 
near  which  were  the  gold  mines  worked  by  the  Spaniards  in 
the  seventeenth  century.  As  far  as  Santa  Maria,  which  is 
the  head  of  navigation  for  all  ci-aft  but  canoes,  the  depths  in 
the  river  are  from  1  to  5  fathoms;  above  this  point  a  steam 
launch  drawing  3^  feet  could  go  onlj-  during  spring  tides. 

"The  spring  tides  extend  during  the  dry  season  to  some  3 


134  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

miles  above  Pinogana,  which  is  48  miles  by  river  above  Chipi- 
gana,  but  at  this  point  the  flood  does  not  run  more  than  two 
hours,  with  an  extreme  rise  of  4  feet.  During  the  neaiD  tides 
the  rise  barely  reaches  Pinogana,  and  during  the  rainy  season 
the  influence  of  the  tide  extends  but  half  the  distance,  owing 
to  the  great  amount  of  water  to  be  backed  up. 

"Bj"  following  the  bends  a  depth  of  30  feet  can  be  carried 
20  miles  above  Chipigana,  except  at  the  crossings,  where  there 
is  but  22  feet  at  ordinary  high  tide.  Above  this  point  the 
channel  of  the  Tuyra  narrows  considerably  and  the  depth 
decreases.  The  country  as  far  up  as  Pinogana  is  flat  and 
marshy  a  long  distance  back  from  the  river  and  is  overflowed 
during  high  water  in  the  autumn. 

"The  Canal  Route  by  way  of  the  Tuyra  ascends  this  river 
some  40  miles  above  Pinogana,  and  then  the  Cue,  a  tributary 
from  the  eastward,  to  its  source;  thence  it  crosses  the  divide 
at  an  altitude  of  753  feet  above  the  sea  and  descends  the 
Cacarica  or  the  Peranchita  to  a  junction  with  the  Atrato,  and 
then  this  magniflcent,  deep,  and  navigable  river,  some  40 
miles,  to  the  Gulf  of  Darien.  The  difficulties  of  this  canal 
line  of  55  miles,  with  its  necessar}'  tunnel  of  2  miles,  are  such 
as  to  make  it  quite  impracticable. 

"Chucunaqua  River,  which  joins  the  Tuyra  from  the 
north  at  a  point  25  miles  above  Chipigana  village,  rises  in 
latitude  8°  50'  N.,  westward  of  Caledonia  Bay  on  the  Atlan- 
tic; its  course  appears  to  have  been  the  favorite  track  of  the 
buccaneers  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific.  Captains  Coxon, 
Harris,  and  Sharp  with  330  men  in  April,  180G,  started  from 
Golden  Island  in  Caledonia  Bay,  and  on  the  second  day 
reached  the  head  of  this  river,  which  they  describe  as  so  ser- 
pentine that  they  had  to  cross  it  every  half  mile,  sometimes 
up  to  their  knees,  sometimes  up  to  their  middle,  and  as  run- 
ning with  a  very  swift  current.  On  the  fifth  day  70  of  the 
men  embarked  in  canoes,  but  found  that  mode  of  traveling 
quite  as  wearisome  as  marching,  for  at  almost  every  furlong 
thej'^  were  constrained  to  quit  their  boats  to  launch  them  over 
rocks,  or  over  trees  that  had  fallen  athwart  the  river,  and 
sometimes  over  necks  of  land.  Earlj"  on  the  eighth  day  they 
reached  Yavisa,  which  is  15  miles  from  Santa  Maria,  at  the 
junction  of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  now  the  residence  of 
the  principal  autliorities  of  the  province.  Here  they  halted  to 
prepare  for  the  attack  on  the  fort.     They  also  made  paddles 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  135 

and  oars  to  row  w  ith,  for  thus  far  down  the  river  tlie  canoes 
had  been  carried  by  the  stream  and  guided  by  poles,  but  here 
the  river  was  broad  and  deep.  On  the  niornina,-  of  the  tenth 
day  they  attacked  and  carried  the  fort,  but  without  gaining 
the  expected  amount  of  plunder,  although  a  buccaneer  says, 
*  We  examined  our  prisoners  severely.' 

"Savannah  River  rises  in  latitude  8°  44'  X.  and  a  few  miles 
from  its  source  meets  the  river  Loro,  where  the  bottom  is 
level  with  the  half  tide.  Below  this  point  for  about  10  miles 
there  is  a  general  depth  of  lA  fathoms,  except  in  two  jjlaces, 
Avhere  banks  with  only  one-fourth  fathom  extend  from  shore 
to  shore;  thence  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a  distance  of  12 
miles,  there  is  a  good  navigable  channel  with  a  least  depth  of 
3i  fathoms,  except  for  a  stretch  of  1^  miles  with  2^  fathoms, 
just  above  the  junction  of  the  Rio  Ingles.  The  navigable  en- 
trance is  about  three-fourths  mile  wide  between  Graham 
Point  and  Haydon  Bank,  the  channel  narrowing  within  to 
about  three-eighths  mile.  The  shores  of  the  river  are  low 
mangrove  land,  skirted  with  hills  200  to  300  feet  high, 
within  2  miles  of  the  banks.  H.  M.  S.  Virago  anchored  in  3^ 
fathoms,  1  mile  northeast  of  Graham  Point. 

' '  The  Darien  Canal  Route,  so  called,  as  surveyed  by  Com- 
mander Selfridge,  U.  S,  Navy,  in  1870  and  1871,  ascends  the 
Savannah  River  24  miles  to  the  junction  of  the  Loro,  and  then 
the  latter  to  its  source ;  thence  it  crosses  a  ridge  and  descends 
the  La  Paz  to  the  Chucunaqua,  crosses  the  latter,  and  ascends 
to  its  source,  the  Sucubdi,  a  tributary  from  the  east;  thence 
it  crosses  tlie  divide  at  about  4  miles  from  the  Atlantic  coast, 
with  an  elevation  of  1,003  or  1,259  feet,  and  descends  to  Cal- 
edonia Bay  by  either  the  river  Aglasenic|ua  or  the  Caledon. 

"A  variation  of  this  route,  starting  from  the  junction  of 
the  La  Paz  with  the  Chucunaqua,  ascends  the  latter  some 
miles  to  the  Morti,  and  this  river  to  the  divide,  with  here  an 
elevation  of  1,137  feet,  descending  thence  to  Caledonia  Bay 
by  the  river  Sasardi. 

"A  canal  by  way  of  the  Sucubdi  would  require  a  tunnel  10 
miles  long  to  connect  the  elevation  of  160  feet  on  the  Atlan- 
tic slope  with  a  corresponding  height  on  the  Pacific  slope; 
in  addition  there  would  be  an  average  cutting  of  130  feet  for 
10  miles  or  more,  and  the  Chucunaqua  to  be  crossed  b}^  a 
costh'  aqueduct.  The  route  by  way  of  the  Sasardi  and  Morti 
presents  results  of  the  same  character  and  no  less  unfavor- 


136  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

able.  The  impracticability  of  the  Darien  route  was  consid- 
ered by  Commander  Selfridge  as  fully  established. 

"By  the  report  of  the  Isthmian  Canal  Commission  the  Sa- 
sardi  route  would  require  a  tunnel  1.6  miles  long,  assuming 
an  open  cut  to  be  used  to  a  depth  of  400  feet;  and  if  the 
Aglaseniqua  or  the  Caledon  were  used  the  tunnel  would  be 
about  2  miles  longer,  while  the  approaches  on  the  south  side 
would  be  much  heavier.  The  total  length  of  canal  naviga- 
tion from  Caledonia  Bay  to  the  mouth  of  the  Savannah  River 
would  be  about  50  statute  miles. 

"San  Jose  Bank,  a  dangerous  shoal  in  the  center  of  which 
is  the  Trollope  Rock  with  only  2  feet  of  water  on  it,  lies  in  the 
fairwaj^  of  vessels  bound  to  Panama  from  the  southward,  the 
rock  being  15  miles  N.  88°  W.  from  Garachine  Point  and  10 
miles  S.  62°  E.  of  Galera  Island,  the  southeasternmost  of  the 
Pearl  Islands.  The  bank  is  1  mile  in  diameter  within  the 
5-fathom  line  and  2f  miles  long  by  2  miles  wide  within  the 
10-fathom  line,  outside  of  which  tlie  water  deepens  in  general 
quickly;  close  to  the  rock  are  2f,  o^,  and  1  fathoms.  Vessels 
should  not  approach  within  the  depth  of  10  fathoms. 

"Marks. — The  Trollope  Rock  may  be  easily  avoided,  either 
by  keeping  along  the  main  shore  until  past  Garachine  Point, 
or  by  passing  about  2  miles  from  Galera  Island,  with  care 
for  the  shoal  patch  and  rocks  off  its  southern  side. 

THE   PEARL   ISLANDS. 

"The  Pearl  Islands,  also  known  as  Islas  del  Rey,  Islas 
del  Istmo,  and  Islas  de  Colombia,  form  an  archipelago  con- 
sisting of  16  islands  and  numerous  rocks,  covering  an  area  of 
450  square  miles  on  the  eastern  side  of  Panama  Gulf,  the 
northern  extremity  being  33  miles  southeastward  of  Panama 
city  and  15  miles  from  the  nearest  j)art  of  the  mainland. 
Rey  Island  is  the  largest  of  the  group;  San  Jose,  Pedro  Gon- 
zales, Bayoneta,  Casaya,  Saboga,  Pacheca,  and  Contadora 
are  of  secondarj^  and  the  rest  of  minor  importance.  Scat- 
tered among  these  islands  are  numerous  fishing  villages,  con- 
taining 1,041  inhabitants  in  1843,  chiefly  engaged  in  the  pearl 
fishery,  which  formerly  produced  about  2  gallons  of  pearls  a 
year.  The  pearl  shells  gathered  here,  also  an  article  of 
commerce,  are  known  as  Panama  or  Bullock  shells,  and  are 
shipi^ed  to  San  Francisco  or  Panama  in  barrels. 

"These  islands  are  low  and  wooded;  the  soil  is  fertile  but 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  137 

not  much  cultivated.  The  numerous  cocoanut  groves  and 
briglit  sandy  beaches,  interspersed  with  small  rocky  bluffs 
crowned  with  trees,  give  them  a  pleasing  appearance. 

"Saboga  Anchorage. — This  good  and  spacious  harbor, 
about  2  miles  long,  north  and  south,  and  nearly  1  mile  wide, 
Avith  an  average  depth  of  0  fathoms,  lying  at  the  extreme 
northern  end  of  the  archipelago,  is  formed  by  three  islands 
and  numerous  islets  and  shoals.  Saboga,  the  largest  island, 
If  miles  long  b}'  an  average  width  of  one-half  mile,  is  on  the 
southwestern  side.  From  its  northern  end  a  reef  and  shoal 
extend  1^  miles  to  the  northward,  protecting  the  harbor  on 
the  west.  Contadora  Island,  1^  miles  long  and  one-half  mile 
wide,  forms  the  southeastern  side;  and  Pacheca Island,  three- 
fourths  mile  long  and  one-half  mile  wide,  the  northern  side. 
About  midway  between  these  two  islands  is  Bartholomew 
Islet,  north  and  south  from  which  extend  shoals,  protecting 
the  harbor  on  the  east  side. 

"Channels. — Three  channels  lead  into  the  harbor,  respec- 
tively from  the  northwest,  the  east,  and  the  south.  The 
Pacheca  Channel,  southward  of  this  island,  is  nearly  one-half 
mile  Avide  and  appears  to  carrj*  a  depth  of  not  less  than  5^ 
fathoms  in  a  straight  course,  but  should  be  more  closely  ex- 
amined, as  there  is  a  deficiency  of  soundings.  Bartholomew 
Islet,  on  a  bearing  S.  00°  E.  (S.  71°  E.  mag.),  leads  through 
in  about  mid-channel.  Contadora,  northward  of  the  island, 
is  at  present  the  deepest  and  safest  channel,  carrying  a  least 
depth  of  9  fathoms  by  keeping  the  north  end  of  Saljoga  just 
open  of  the  south  end  of  Near  Islet,  S.  85°  W.  (S.  80°  W. 
mag. ) .  Saboga  Channel,  l)et ween  this  and  Contadora,  appears 
to  have  a  o-fathom  channel,  but  must  be  navigated  with  cau- 
tion, and  is  not  recommended  before  further  examination  on 
account  of  the  shoals  obstructing  the  entrance  and  reported 
shoal  patches  outside.  If  this  harbor  were  to  be  much  used 
a  few  buoys  would  greatly  assist  the  navigation. 

"A  considerable  village  with  a  church  lies  on  the  northeast 
shore  of  Saboga  Island,  at  the  head  of  a  bay  tilled  with  a 
shoal  and  a  reef.  The  usual  anchorage  is  in  7  or  8  fathoms 
at  one-half  mile  off  this  village.  Contadora  has  5  fathoms  close 
along  its  north \ve^t  shore,  which  is  low  and  well  adapted  for 
wharves. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  at  Saboga  anchorage 
is  at  4h.  Om. ;  springs  rise  about  14  feet. 


138  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"  Chapera  and  Pajaros,  the  next  islands  to  the  southward 
of  Contadora,  have  a  4-fathoni  channel  between  them,  but  it 
should  not  be  used,  as  the  ground  is  foul.  A  2^-fathoni  shoal 
lies  three-fourths  of  a  mile  eastward  of  Pajaros,  and  south- 
ward of  this  island  the  soundings  are  very  irregular,  with 
rocky  bottom.  No  vessels  should  attempt  the  passages 
between  Pajaros  and  Rey  islands  without  previous  examina- 
tion and  marking  the  points  of  the  shoals. 

"Casaya,  Bayoneta,  and  Viveros  are  the  largest  of  a 
cluster  of  islands  on  what  may  be  termed  an  extensive  reef, 
about  8  miles  long  by  5  miles  broad,  stretching  off  the  north- 
west point  of  Rey  Island.  There  are  also  numerous  islets  and 
rocks  rising  from  the  reef,  and  the  passages  between  them 
all  are  foul,  with  occasional  strong  tides.  A  bank  1|  miles 
long  by  three-fourths  mile  wide,  with  only  9  feet  of  water  on 
its  shoalest  part,  lies  nearlj-  4  miles  eastward  of  the  north 
point  of  Casaj^a,  and  the  Caracoles  and  Cangrejo  islets,  wilh 
foul  ground  around  them,  lie  about  2  miles  oif  the  northeast 
point  of  Viveros. 

"Clearing  marks. — The  entire  group  of  islands  stretch- 
ing northwestward  from  the  northwest  point  of  Rey  Island 
should  be  avoided  by  Panama-bound  vessels,  which  should 
not  approach  the  islands  on  their  western  side  nearer  than 
just  to  open  the  eastern  point  of  San  Jose  eastward  of  Pedro 
Gonzales  Island,  bearing  S.  6°  E.  (S.  11°  E.  mag.),  and  on 
their  eastern  side  should  not  open  San  Pablo,  an  islet  off  the 
northeast  side  of  Rey  Island,  or  bring  it  to  bear  eastward  of 
S.  31°  E.  (S.  36°  E.  mag.). 

' '  Rey  Island,  the  largest  of  the  Pearl  group,  is  about  15  miles 
long,  north  and  south,  by  7  miles  wide,  with  several  peaks, 
the  highest  being  600  feet  high.  Numerous  islets  and  shoal 
patches,  with  deep  water  between  them,  lie  3  miles  off  the 
western  shore,  but  should  not  be  approached  by  strangers 
within  the  depth  of  10  fathoms.  Cocos  Point,  the  south 
extreme,  is  the  end  of  a  remarkal>le  promontory,  4  miles  long 
by  about  1  mile  wide,  jutting  southward  into  the  sea.  Its 
extreme  cliff  was  crowned  in  1859  by  an  umbrella-like  tree, 
making  it  conspicuous. 

"Off  the  eastern  shore  of  Rey  are  also  islands,  but  they  are 
steep-to  and  may  be  approached  within  one-half  mile,  with  the 
exception  of  Caiias  Island,  off  which  is  a  3-fathom  patch  lying 
outside  a  sunken  rock,  nearly  H  miles  from  the  shore.     This 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  139 

may  be  easily  avoided  by  not  opening-  Monge  Islet  eastward 
of  St.  Elmo  Island  until  Pablo  Islet  opens  eastward  of  Mnerta, 
a  small  ban-en  islet  lying  about  1  mile  northward  of  this 
patch. 

' '  St.  Elmo  Bay,  on  the  east  side  of  Cocos  Point,  is  open  to  the 
southeastward,  but  has  convenient  anchorage  in  all  parts,  in 
6  to  9  fatlioms,  and  a  good  stream  of  water  near  Lemon  Point 
at  its  head. 

"  San  Miguel,  the  principal  town  of  these  islands,  is  on  the 
north  side  of  Rey.  It  is  of  considerable  size,  with  a  conspicu- 
ous church,  but  is  badly  situated,  landing  at  low  water  being 
difficult.  Cerro  Congo  and  Cerro  Vali  rise  southward  of  the 
town,  the  former  being  481  feet  high.  Supplies  are  uncer- 
tain and  dear,  all  iDroductions  of  the  island  being  generally 
sent  to  Panama. 

"Anchorage. — Vessels  having  to  lie  off  the  town  sliould 
run  in  between  Caracoles  and  Cangrejo  islets,  taking  care 
not  to  shoal  the  water  under  7  fathoms  at  low  water  and  using 
caution  in  the  approach,  as  the  Ijottom  is  irregular  and  rocks 
abound;  anchor  in  about  6  or  7  fathoms  when  the  church  is 
shut  in,  or  behind  Afuera,  an  islet  lying  off  the  town,  bear- 
ing S.  29°  E.  (S.  34°  E.  mag.). 

"  Galera  Island,  lying  8  miles  S.  81°  E.  from  Cocos  Point, 
is  small,  and,  like  the  point,  remarkable  for  its  umbrella  tree. 
A  cliff  forms  its  southern  side,  sloping  down  to  a  beach  on 
the  north,  and  to  the  southward  a  reef  runs  oft'  for  nearly  1 
mile.  This  island  is  generally  the  first  land  made  by  vessels 
bound  to  Panama;  it  should  not  be  approached  within  the 
depth  of  10  fathoms,  but  between  it  and  Cocos  Point  there  is 
a  good  passage  by  using  which  the  vessel  will  be  clear  of  the 
San  Jose  Bank,  10  miles  to  the  southeastward. 

"Pedro  Gonzales  Island,  separated  from  the  islets  off 
the  west  side  of  Rej-  by  a  broad,  deep  channel,  is  of  irregular 
shape,  with  an  extreme  length,  northwest  and  southeast,  of  3f 
miles  by  an  average  width  of  one-half  mile,  and  has  on  its 
northern  side  a  wide  and  deep  indentation  forming  two  bays, 
Perry  and  Magicienne,  partially  protected  on  the  north  by  the 
small  islands  Seiiora  and  Seiiorita.  Ti-apiche  Island,  100  feet 
high,  which  is  connected  bj'  a  sandy  neck  with  Gonzales  at 
low- water  springs,  forms  the  division  between  the  two  baj^'s. 
Off  the  east  point  of  Trapiche  extends  a  rocky  ledge,  and 
from  this  extends  a  shoal  with  14  feet  of  water  at  the  end, 


140  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

nearl}'  600  yards  from  tlie  point.  Perry  Bay,  which  lies  within 
this  shoal  and  Swift  Point  on  the  opposite  side,  is  a  mile  wide 
and  penetrates  nearly  a  mile,  affording  anchorage  in  5  to  7 
fathoms,  with  good  protection  from  wind  and  sea. 

"A  large  sti-eam  of  water,  found  in  full  force  in  the  month 
of  April  at  the  end  of  what  had  been  considered  a  remarkably 
dry  season,  runs  into  the  sea  on  the  western  side  of  Magicienne 
Ba}\  This  baj',  however,  is  small  and  shoal,  having  only  a 
tongue  of  deep  water,  3:^  fathoms,  projecting  three-eighths 
mile  within  the  entrance,  with  a  width  of  one-eighth  mile. 
Senora,  wooded  and  70  feet  high,  and  Seiiorita,  small  and  40 
feet  high,  with  the  shoals  olf  their  eastern  sides,  have  an 
extent  of  about  1  mile,  and  are  separated  from  Trapiche  bj' 
a  7-fathom  channel,  steep-to  on  both  sides. 

"Perry  and  Magicienne  bays  were  examined  in  1858  as  to 
their  capabilities  for  a  depot  for  steam  vessels.  Although  not 
considered  so  good  and  not  so  near  Panama  as  Saboga  anchor- 
age, tliej"  were  thought  to  have  some  advantages. 

"Tides. — High  water,  full  and  change,  in  Perry  Baj'  is  at 
3h.  50m. ;  rise,  16  feet.  The  tidal  streams  are  not  felt  at  the 
anchorage,  l)ut  off  the  island  there  is  a  considerable  set,  the 
flood  running  northward  and  the  ebb  southward,  the  latter 
being  generally  the  stronger. 

"  Directions. — Vessels  may  pass  on  either  side  of  Seiiora 
and  Seiiorita  Islands,  taking  care  to  avoid  the  shoal  eastward 
of  them,  if  passing  on  that  side,  by  keeping  the  eastern  point 
of  Gonzales  Island,  a  rocky  i)eninsula,  open  of  the  point  next 
north  of  it,  bearing  S.  17°  E.  (S.  22°  E.  mag.)  until  Punta 
Piloto,  120  feet  high,  the  north  extreme  of  Gonzales,  bears  to 
the  westward  of  S.  73°  W.  (S.  68°  W.  mag.) ;  if  entering  Perry 
Baj',  the  shoal  off  Trapiche  may  be  avoided  by  not  passing 
westward  of  midwaj^  between  this  island  and  Swift  Point. 

"San  Jose  Island,  lying  Smiles  south  of  Gonzales,  is  about 
6t  miles  long  bj'  3  miles  wide,  and  its  summit  forms  a  table- 
land said  to  be  a  considerable  grazing  ground.  Nearly  2 
miles  southeast  from  Iguana  Point,  the  north  extreme  of  the 
island,  a  large  waterfall,  running  into  the  sea,  affords  an 
excellent  watering  place.  A  deep  bay  indents  the  southeast 
side  of  the  island,  but  the  swell  sets  in  there  with  great  vio- 
lence. Off  the  southern  end  are  a  number  of  high  rocks  of 
singular  and  fantastic  shapes,  also  lashed  bj'  a  heavy  surf; 
this  part  of  the  island  should  be  avoided.     The  western  shore 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  141 

is  bold  and  cliffy,  with  a  small  baj'  near  the  middle,  opening- 
to  the  northwestward. 

"The  channel,  6^  miles  wide,  between  Rej^  and  Sau 
Jose,  is  foul  on  the  Rey  side,  but  deep  and  clear  on  the  San 
Jose  side,  the  depths  exceeding  20  fathoms  for  two-thirds  tlie 
length  of  the  island. 

"  Passage  Rock. — This  dangerous  sunken  rock,  with  12 
and  9  fathoms  close  around  it,  lies  near  the  middle  of  the  chan- 
nel, otherwise  deep  and  clear,  between  San  Jose  and  Gonzales 
islands. 

"  Clearing  marks. — The  peak  next  south  of  the  highest  on 
Rey  Island,  just  open  south  of  Coco  Islet,  one  of  the  outlying 
islets  off  the  west  side  of  Rey,  bearing  N.  78°  E.  (N.  73°  E. 
mag.),  leads  more  than  one-half  mile  southward  of  Passage 
Rock;  vessels  should  keep  between  this  line  and  the  San 
Jose  shore. 

"Bound  to  Panama. — Vessels  bound  to  Panama  from  the 
northward  should  make  the  island  of  Jicaron,  which  lies  about 
50  miles  westward  of  Mariato  Point,  and  from  here  endeavor 
to  keep  under  the  land  as  far  as  Cape  Mala,  or,  if  unable  to 
do  this,  i^ush  across  for  the  opj)osite  coast,  where  the  current 
will  be  in  their  favor.  On  getting  to  the  eastward  of  Cape 
Mala,  the  safest  plan  is  to  shape  a  course  for  Galera  Island 
and  use  the  eastern  passage,  that  between  the  Pearl  Islands 
and  the  main;  if,  however,  tempted  up  the  gulf  by  a  fair 
wind,  vessels  should  endeavor  to  get  on  the  western  coast  of 
the  Pearl  Islands,  for  the  reasons  noted  below. 

"  The  passage  from  the  southward  into  the  Gulf  of  Panama 
is  easily  made  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year  by  keeping 
about  GO  miles  from  the  coast  north  of  Guaj^aquil,  and  after 
crossing  the  line  shaping  a  course  for  Galera  Island,  taking- 
care,  especially  in  the  dry  season,  to  stand  inshore  with  the 
first  northerly  wind.  By  so  doing  vessels  will  most  probably 
have  the  curi-ent  in  their  favor  along  the  coast,  whereas  by 
keeping  in  the  middle  or  on  the  western  side  of  the  gulf  a 
strong  southerly  set  will  be  experienced.  After  making 
Galera  and  clearing  the  San  Jose  Bank  the  navigation  be- 
tween the  Pearl  Islands  and  the  main  is  clear  and  easy,  with 
the  advantage  of  being  able  to  anchor  slionld  the  wind  fail 
or  the  tide  be  unfavorable.  As  a  rule  this  passage  should 
be  taken,  but  with  a  strong  southerly  wind  the  navigator  is 
tempted  to  run  up  the  bay,  in  which  case  he  should  keep  on 


]42  NOTES    OK    PANAMA. 

the  western  shore  of  the  Pearl  Islands,  where  less  current 
will  be  found,  and  anchorage  should  the  wind  fail,  an  event 
always  to  be  exj)ected  in  these  regions.  Between  Chirainbira 
Point  and  Cape  Corrientes  the  land  is  low  and  faced  with 
shoals,  caused  by  the  numerous  rivers  that  have  their  out- 
lets on  this  part  of  the  coast ;  but  after  passing  Cape  Corri- 
entes it  may  be  aj)i)roached  fairl}"  close  except  off  Solano 
Point,  where  some  rocky  shoal  patches  extend  seaward,  as  the 
coast  is  in  general  bold-to.  Care,  however,  should  be  taken 
not  to  run  into  the  calms  caused  b^^  the  high  land,  as  it  is 
difficult  to  get  off  into  the  breeze  again,  and  the  swell  sets 
inshore,  where  there  may  be  no  anchorage  until  close  to  the 
rocks. 

"  In  beating  up  the  Gulf  of  Panama  in  the  fine  season,  the 
eastern  passage  is  to  be  preferred,  as,  with  one  exception,  it 
is  free  from  dangers,  the  water  is  smooth,  and  a  regular  tide 
enables  more  northing  to  be  made  tlian  would  be  possible  in 
most  cases  against  the  strong  current  and  short  high  sea 
which  at  this  season  prevail  in  the  middle  or  on  the  western 
side  of  the  gulf.  During  the  rainy  season  a  straight  course 
up  the  bay  is  preferable  to  becoming  entangled  with  the 
islands,  the  current  generally  following  the  direction  of  the 
wind. 

"Bound  from  Panama. — The  great  difficulty,  however,  is 
the  passage  out  from  Panama  Bay.  Pizarro,  the  first  to 
attempt  this,  in  November,  1525,  after  beating  about  for 
sevent}^  days,  was  forced  to  return  to  the  river  Chiman. 

"The  best  plan  for  all  sailing  vessels,  whether  bound  for 
ports  north  or  south  of  Panama,  is  to  push  to  the  southward 
and  gain  the  southeast  trade.  By  so  doing  they  will  not  only 
avoid  the  doldrums  and  vexatious  winds,  but  will  have  the 
additional  advantage  of  salubrious  weather,  with  the  sea  at 
a  temperature  of  75°  instead  of  83°  F.  Between  January  and 
April  it  may  be  better  for  north-bound  vessels  to  cross  the 
line  between  the  Galapagos  Islands  and  the  coast  before  push- 
ing westward,  keeping  south  of  the  line  until  westward  of 
105°  W.,  when  a  course  may  be  shaped  for  10°  N.  and  120'' 
W.,  in  which  track  they  will  probably  find  the  northern  trade. 
This  will  generally  prove  far  preferable  to  encountering  the 
vexatious  weather  met  with  at  this  season  north  of  the 
Galapagos. 

"The  i3assage  to  the  northward  has  been  made  by  keeping 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  143 

close  inshore  after  passing  Cape  Mala,  and  navigating  by  the 
land  and  sea  breezes;  bnt  this  should  be  attenii)ted  only  by 
vessels  that  are  well  found  and  manned,  unless  bound  to  the 
ports  of  Central  America,  when  it  is  their  only  route. 

"  The  passage  to  the  westward  during  the  rainj^  season  is  a 
most  tedious  affair.  Calms,  squalls,  contrary  winds  and  cur- 
rents, a  heavy  swell,  and  extreme  heat,  as  Avell  as  an  atmos- 
phere laden  with  moisture  and  rain,  are  the  daily  accompa- 
niments. It  often  occurs  that  20  miles  of  westing  are  not 
made  in  a  week,  and  it  is  only  by  the  industrious  use  of  every 
squall  and  slant  of  wind  that  the  passage  can  be  made. 

"In  the  navigation  of  these  regions  and  of  the  coasts  of  Cen- 
tral America  and  Mexico  even  small  auxiliar}-  steam  power 
proves  most  useful." — West  Coasts  of  Mexico  and  Central 
America.     Hydrograpliic  Office,  No.  8Jf,  1902. 

"Islands,  etc. — There  are  on  the  coast  and  on  the  banks 
of  rivers  marshes  or  ponds  more  or  less  ijermanent  and 
extensive. 

"Both  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  coasts  are  sprinkled 
with  islands,  in  some  spots  so  thickly  grouped  as  to  consti- 
tute archipelagoes. 

"On  the  Atlantic  side  there  are  some  (>30  islands  and  islets, 
with  an  aggregate  area  of  14-7  square  miles,  of  which  about 
115  square  miles  are  susceptible  of  utilization  for  lumbering 
or  colonization.  The  remainder  is  waste,  unsheltered,  and 
lacks  both  water  and  vegetation. 

"The  islands  of  this  Department  on  the  Pacific  coast  are 
larger  and  more  numerous  than  those  on  the  Atlantic  side. 
In  the  group  known  as  the  Archipelago  de  las  Perlas  the 
principal  island  is  that  of  San  Miguel,  which  is  about  10  miles 
long  by  7  or  8  miles  wide.  The  largest  island  on  the  coast  is 
that  of  Coiba,  a  few  miles  from  Bahia  Honda,  whose  greatest 
length  is  some  22  miles  and  its  greatest  breadth  is  15  miles. 
These  Pacific  islands  are  said  to  number  in  all  1,053,  with  an 
aggregate  area  of  about  500  square  miles." — Handbook  of 
Colombia,  Bureau  of  American  Repidjlics. 

"Between  Saboga  and  Bartoleme  islands,  in  the  north  part 
of  Perlas  Archipelago  and  about  10  miles  southeast  of  the 
city  of  Panama,  is  a  fine  anchorage  for  a  fleet  of  at  least  10 
large  vessels." — Report  of  Caot.  C.  B.  HiunpJrreij,  Twenty- 
second  Infantry,  1903. 

Ports,  Breakwaters,  etc. — Colon. — "Colon  is  located  on 


144  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

a  flat  island  in  the  bay  of  Limon.  The  main  harbor  is  located 
on  the  west  side  of  the  city.  On  Point  Toro,  opposite  Colon, 
is  located  a  strong  light,  about  75  feet  high,  which  can  be 
seen  for  about  20  miles  at  sea.  On  the  point  of  the  island,  in 
the  city  of  Colon,  is  also  located  another  light,  about  30  feet 
in  height,  which  can  be  seen  at  least  12  miles  at  sea. 

' '  There  is  also  another  baj'  on  the  east  side  of  the  city  of 
Colon.  The  largest  ships  may  anchor  in  either  one  of  these 
bays.  All  along  the  water  front  of  Colon  are  located  ships' 
piers.  In  case  of  storms  coming  from  the  north  ships  must 
leave  the  harbor  and  also  the  docks  and  proceed  to  Portobelo 
for  protection.  There  is  a  plan  proposed  to  build  a  break- 
water at  Colon,  at  a  cost  of  about  $1,500,000,  to  protect  the 
harbor.  This  is  quite  practicable  and  would  render  the  har- 
bor safe.  Of  the  two  ports,  Portobelo  is  very  much  the  bet- 
ter, but  no  land  communication  is  to  be  had  witli  Colon 
except  by  a  trail. 

"No  timber  exists  in  the  vicinitj'  of  Colon,  j^et  a  small 
amount  of  large  pine  timber  could  be  found  in  the  railroad 
yards. 

"Small  boats  could  be  landed  along  the  shore  about  one- 
half  mile  south  of  the  wharves.  The  anchorage  in  the  har- 
bor off  Colon  is  sufBciently  large  for  almost  any  number  of 
vessels." — Report  of  Capt.  C.  B.  HiDnphrey,  Twenty-second 
Infantry,  1903. 

"The  harbor  of  Colon  is  not-  by  any  means  a  safe  one,  as 
it  is  without  natural  or  artificial  protection,  and  during  the 
'norther'  season — January,  February,  and  March — vessels 
are  in  danger  of  heavy  damages.  The  wharves  here,  which 
are  owned  and  controlled  by  the  Panama  Railroad  Companj^, 
are  five  in  number.  Four  of  them  are  modern  steel  and  iron 
structures  and  afford  ample  room  to  berth  twelve  ocean-going 
steamers  and  a  number  of  smaller  sailing  craft.  The  harbor 
entrance  and  the  wharf  slips  have  recently  been  dredged,  so 
that  vessels  of  28  feet  draft  may  be  safely  docked." — Com- 
ynercial  relations  of  the  United  States  witJi  foreign  countries 
during  the  year  1900. 

Panama. — "Ships  which  do  not  enter  the  harbor  of  Panama 
northeast  of  the  city  or  the  harbor  of  La  Boca  may  find 
anchorage  on  the  north  side  of  Culebra  Island,  where  there 
is  located  a  small  town.  There  are  tliree  lighters  owned  by 
the  English  company,  which  run  from  their  pier  at  La  Boca 
to  the  island  of  Culebra.     Anchorage  may  also  be  found  for 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  1-15 

ships  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  island  of  Tal)oga.  Taboga 
is  a  veiy  rich  and  pi-oduetive  islaud,  where  the  principal 
fruits  are  grown,  such  as  mangoes,  pineapples,  and  bananas. 
This  island  is  also  generally  in  a  very  i^ood  sanitary  condi- 
tion, and  in  case  of  an  epidemic  of  yellow  fever,  smallpox,  or 
bubonic  plague  on  tlie  Isthmus  the  richer  inhal)itants  of 
Panama  leave  for  this  island."— i^e/)©?-^  of  Capf.  C.  B.  Hum- 
plireij,  Ttcentij-second  Infantry,  1903. 

"Every  steamer  or  sailing  vessel  of  high  freeboard  upon 
arriving  in  port  casts  anchor  to  the  north  of  the  Flamenco, 
Perico,  and  Naos  islands,  which  are  situated  2^  miles  south 
of  Panama.  The  passengers  are  canned  to  the  wharf  of  the 
Panama  Railway  Company  when  the  state  of  the  sea  permits 
it,  as  well  as  the  cargo,  which  is  unloaded  in  large  scows  of 
120  to  300  tons  eacli.  The  same  is  done  in  embarking  passen- 
gers and  cargo.  For  this  service  there  are  at  Panama  three 
good-sized  strong  tugboats,  called  as  follows:  Bolivar,  Ancon 
(which  is  kept  at  anchor  and  in  reserve),  and  Morro. 

"The  two  former  belong  to  tlie  Panama  Railroad  Company' 
and  the  latter  to  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company. 

"It  is  very  easy  to  obtain  coal  and  water  in  this  bay,  as  the 
aforementioned  companies  furnish  it  to  all  who  ask  for  it, 

"This  bay  also  lias  a  cistern  boat  (steamer)  called  Isabal, 
and  owned  by  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Compan3\  It  has 
a  capacity  of  47,000  gallons  of  fresh  water. 

"In  order  to  ply  the  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Panama  it  is  nec- 
essarj-  to  use  tide  tables,  which  can  be  had  in  the  printing 
office  of  I^a  Estrella  de  Panama,  where  they  have  been  pub- 
lished for  years,  and  are  compiled  by  seamen  who  are  well 
acquainted  with  the  bay. 

"  Between  the  wall  or  bastion  of  Chiriqui,  which  is  situated 
to  the  east,  and  the  northeast  coast  the  sea  runs  in  a  con- 
siderable distance,  forming  an  excellent  roadstead,  at  the  head 
of  which  are  situated  the  public  market  of  the  city  and  foui* 
large  wharves — that  of  the  market,  where  the  coasting  trade 
is  carried  on;  the  American  wharf,  alongside  which  come  the 
tugboats  and  bongos,  and  where  the  products  in  transit  or 
brought  for  Panama  from  the  Pacific  coast  are  loaded  and 
unloaded;  the  English  wliarf  of  the  Panama  Railroad,  where 
the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  ComjDany  transacts  its  business, 
and  the  coal  wharf,  where  this  combustible  is  loaded  in  order 
to  transport  it  to  Flamenco. 
12312—03 10 


146  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"The  constant  movement  in  tliis  excellent  roadstead  of 
hundreds  of  caiques,  scows,  sloops,  schooners,  and  tugboats 
which  are  continually  entering'  and  leaving,  mostly  with  un- 
furled sails,  together  with  the  noise  caused  by  the  engines 
and  cars  of  the  railroad  and  by  the  carriages  and  wagons 
which  arrive  in  considerable  numbers  from  the  center  of  the 
city  and  leave  from  the  nmrket  and  wharves,  lend  this  place 
the  livelj^  aspect  and  air  of  greatness  peculiar  to  all  busy 
ports. 

"  Panama  at  high  tide,  and  seen  from  seaward,  is  beautiful 
and  looks  like  a  European  port." — Directory  of  Panama,  1898. 

'^  La  Boca. — Mr.  Francis  Gudger,  vice-consul  general  of 
the  United  States  at  Panama,  has  furnished  a  description  of 
the  wharf  at  La  Boca.  This  wharf  was  built  bj^  the  Panama 
Canal  Compan}',  but  is  now  controlled  b}''  the  Panama  Rail- 
road Compan3\  The  rates  charged  for  vessels  coming  along- 
side are  governed  for  the  most  jjart  by  contract. 

"The  wharf,  constructed  wholly  of  steel,  with  a  roof  and 
sides  of  corrugated  iron,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pan- 
ama end  of  the  Panama  Canal,  about  2^  miles  from  Panama 
City.  During  its  construction  its  failure  was  predicted  on 
account  of  the  great  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide;  also  because  of 
the  difficult}^  of  keeping  the  channel  leading  to  the  wharf 
open,  as  a  great  amount  of  mud  is  brought  down  b}^  the  San 
Juan  River.  The  difficulties  have  been  reduced  to  a  mini- 
mum. Vessels  are  not  lashed  alongside  the  wharf,  but  have 
floats  placed  between  them  and  the  wharf,  so  tluit  there  are 
no  bad  results  from  the  tide.  The  cranes  or  winches  on  the 
wharf  are  of  a  special  kind  that  permit  of  working  the  cargo 
at  all  stages  of  the  tide.  The  following  measurements  will 
give  an  idea  of  the  size  and  capacity  of  the  wharf: 

Total  length - feet. .  985 

Total  width do 54 

Depth  of  channel  alongside  at  high  tide do 45| 

Depth  of  channel  alongside  at  low  tide do 26^ 

Width  of  channel  alongside .  -  do 98 

Cranes  (six  of  2  tons  each,  one  of  20  to  24  tons) number . .  7 

Capacity  of  vessel  space feet. .  985 

Tonnage  of  largest  vessel  yet  docked tons. .  4. 600 

Railroad  tracks  on  wharf number. .  2 

Car  capacity  of  tracks  on  wharf cars. .  39 

"  It  is  possil)le  to  dock  any  vessel  drawing  less  than  20  feet 
G  inches. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  147 

"In  speaking-  of  the  channel  alongside  it  might  be  well  to 
explain  that  this  is  not  exactly  a  channel,  but  what  is  called 
a  souille,  or  basin,  in  which  the  vessels  lie,  and  in  wliich  there 
is  a  maneuvering  space,  at  anj^  stage  of  the  tide,  of  186  feet. 
The  bottom  of  this  basin  is  soft  mud,  j^et,  while  it  is  consid- 
ered best  for  the  vessels  to  be  at  all  times  afloat,  they  can 
rest  easj'  in  the  muddy  bottom.  From  the  above  it  is  seen 
that  any  vessel  of  500  feet  length  and  not  drawing  more  than 
26  feet  can  be  handled  at  this  wharf  with  facility." — Montldij 
Bulletin  of  Hie  Bureau  of  American  Eepublics,  August,  1001. 

"A  branch  of  the  Panama  road  runs  from  the  city  of  Pan- 
ama through  the  town  of  La  Boca  to  a  large  ships'  pier  in 
La  Boca  Harbor. 

''It  contains  facilities  for  docking  3  large  ships  at  the 
same  time.  There  are  16  steam  cranes  and  4:  electric  cranes 
on  the  dock.  On  the  end  of  the  pier  is  a  large  20-ton  crane. 
The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is  over  20  feet,  but  owing  to  the 
dredging  which  goes  on  all  the  time  ships  can  come  in  at  siny 
stage  of  the  tide. 

"Across  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  town  of  La  Boca,  about 
700  yards  away,  can  be  seen  the  mouth  of  the  south  entrance 
to  the  canal.  The  harbor  at  La  Boca  and  the  harbor  of  Pan- 
ama might  be  commanded  perfectly  hx  artillery  placed  upon 
the  hills  between  the  two  places.  La  Boca  is  also  commanded 
by  a  hill  to  the  east,  shown  in  the  charts,  about  1,000  j'ards 
away.  There  is  a  first-class  wagon  road  between  Panama 
and  La  Boca." — Report  of  Capt.  C.  B.  Humphrey,  Twenty- 
second  Infantry,  1903. 

"  Various  Ports,  etc. — For  traveling  to  any  points  in  the 
interior  of  the  Dei)artment,  except  those  between  Panama 
and  Colon,  although  there  are  a  few  bridle  paths,  the  most 
convenient,  cheapest,  and  shortest  routes  are  by  sea  or  rivers. 

"To  the  west  of  the  city  of  Panama  are  situated  the  most 
populous  and  richest  provinces  of  the  Department,  for, 
although  Darien,  which  is  situated  to  the  east,  possesses  such 
great  and  varied  natural  riches  that  thej^  will  Avithout  doubt 
render  it  an  emporium  wlien  its  day  arrives,  tliej-  are  not  yet 
under  exploitation,  with  the  exception  of  the  rich  gold  mines 
of  Espiritu  Santo  and  Cana. 

"To  the  west  are  situated  the  provinces  of  Code,  Vera- 
guas,  Los  Santos,  and  Chiriqui,  and  to  the  northwest  the 
flourishing  district  of  Boeas  del  Toro,  belonging  to  the  prov- 
ince of  Colon. 


148  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"Travelers  may  reach  these  points  as  follows:  From  Colon 
to  Bocas  del  Toro  in  steamers  or  in  some  of  tlie  sailing  or 
steam  vessels  which  are  engaged  in  the  banana  traffic. 

"The  provinces  of  Code,  Veraguas,  Los  Santos,  and  Chi- 
riqni  liave  their  harbors  on  the  Pacific  or  on  some  of  tlie  riv- 
ers which  empty  tlierein  and  are  navigable  for  minor  craft 
and  sailing  vessels.  Traffic  between  Panama  and  these 
provinces  is  carried  on  in  greater  part  by  sailing  vessels, 
except  that  to  Chiriqui  Province,  where,  at  Port  David, 
steamers  touch  with  considerable  frequency,  because  of  the 
growing  commerce  of  that  province  with  and  its  proximity  to 
the  Republic  of  Costa  Rica. 

"The  province  of  Code  has  several  harbors,  but  that  of 
Agnadulce  is  the  one  preferred,  because  steamers  visit  it 
also.  The  city  of  Penonome,  capital  of  the  province,  has  for 
its  service  the  harbor  of  Posada  on  the  river  Code.  The 
port  of  Aguadulce  will  not,  however,  lose  its  prestige,  and  it 
will  certainl,y  always  be  preferred  by  travelers  bound  for  the 
towns  in  the  province  mentioned  (Nata,  Anton,  Penonome, 
etc.),  and  even  for  the  contiguous  provinces  of  Los  Santos 
and  Veraguas,  owing  to  the  advantageous  circumstance  that, 
as  before  stated,  steamers  and  large  sailing  vessels  touch 
there. 

"The  province  of  Veraguas  has  the  harbors  of  Montijo  and 
Sona  on  the  rivers  San  Pedro  and  San  Pablo,  wliich  emptj^^ 
into  the  Gulf  of  Montijo  and  are  navigable  in  their  head- 
waters with  minor  craft  and  sailing  vessels.  But  since,  iji 
order  to  go  from  Panama  to  these  liarbors,  it  is  necessary  to 
double  the  peninsula  of  Azuero,  the  port  of  Aguadulce  is 
preferable  in  going  to  Santiago  (capital  of  the  province). 
From  this  port  (Aguadulce)  the  traveler  goes  to  Santiago  by 
a  good  wagon  road.  There  are  over  a  hundred  wagons  at 
Aguadulce  to  attend  constantly  to  tlie  transportation  of  pas- 
sengers and  freight. 

"The  port  of  Aguadulce,  after  tliose  of  Panama,  Colon, 
Bocas  del  Toro,  and  Pedregal,  is  the  most  frequented  and 
visited  by  steamers.  This  j)ort  is  situated  in  the  Gulf  of 
Parita,  which  forms  part  of  the  great  Gulf  of  Panama,  and  it 
is  owing  to  this  advantageous  position  that  it  serves  as  a 
stopping  place  for  steamers  and  sailing  vessels. 

"From  the  maritime  salt  works  owned  and  oj)efated  by  the 
National  Government  at  Aguadulce  almost  all  the  towns  in 
the  department  are  supijlied  with  salt. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  149 

"The  province  of  Los  Santos,  whieli  is  situated  on  the 
jieninsula  of  AzAiero,  possesses  manj^  commodious  maritime 
ports,  the  principal  of  which  are  Chitre,  Las  Tablas,  and 
Monsabe. 

"  The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company  dispatclies  one 
or  two  steamers  everj^  month  from  Panama,  which  stop  at 
Aguadnlce,  Remolino,  San  Lorenzo  (when  necessary),  Sona, 
Pedregal,  and  Puntarenas  (Costa  Rica). 

"  For  voyages  to  the  archipelago  de  las  Perlas  and  to  Darien 
they  put  into  service  coast-trading  vessels,  which  enter  and 
ascend  the  Tuira,  a  river  of  great  volume  and  navigable  by 
steam  as  far  as  Yavisa.  The  Darien  Gold  Mining  Company 
disi)atches  regularly  a  steamer  to  the  port  of  Yavisa. 

"The  fares  on  the  sailing  vessels  to  these  ports  are  as  a 
rule  verj'  reasonable,  varying  from  $2  to  $5  per  person,  ac- 
cording to  the  class  in  which  the  passenger  wishes  to  travel. " — 
Di rector ij  of  Panama,  1898. 

Tides. — "The  tides  xavy  considerably  with  the  seasons,  and 
are  much  higher  at  Panama  than  at  Colon.  In  Colon  Bay 
the  difference  between  ebb  and  flow  seldom  exceeds  12  or  14 
inches,  and  is  often  scarcely  perceptible  for  days  together, 
whereas  in  Panama  Bay  it  is  as  much  as  8  feet  in  the  earl}- 
summer  (Maj*  and  June),  when  it  is  least  felt,  and  rises  to 
20  or  even  23  feet  in  winter,  the  average  for  the  year  being 
13  or  14  feet — that  is,  as  many  feet  as  inches  on  the  opposite 
side.  The  consequence  is  that  in  an  open  canal  without 
locks  no  equilibrium  could  be  established,  the  current  con- 
stantly shifting  with  the  alternating  tidal  currents." — Stan- 
ford's ConipendiiDnofGeograpliy,  Cent  ral  and  South  America. 

{(I)  CITIES. 

Colon.^"  lender  the  old  regime  of  Spain  the  only  line  of 
communication  between  the  two  oceans  was  one  simple  mule 
path  crossing  the  Isthmus  from  Panama  to  Porto  Bello,  on  the 
Atlantic  side.  Porto  Bello  Harbor  is  commodious  and  deep, 
but  the  fortifications  of  the  old  seaport  are  now  overgrown 
with  forest  vegetation  and  the  place  has  become  an  obscure 
hamlet,  occupied  by  a  few  hundred  negroes,  who  do  a  little 
trade  with  Colon,  Colombia,  and  Jamaica. 

"The  deadl}-  Chagres  fever  raged  so  there  that  the  port  was 
practically  abandoned,  and  Chagres  became   the   Atlantic 


150 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


terminus  of  the  isthmian  route  from  Panama.  But  Chagres 
soon  won  fame  as  a  hotbed  of  marsli  fevers  and  the  popula- 
tion rapidly  disappeared. 

"A  new  port  was  founded,  therefore,  which  was  called 
Colon,  in  honor  of  Columbus,  who  discovered  the  bay.  It  be- 
came known  also  as  Aspinwall,  from  the  name  of  one  of  the 
chief  promoters  of  the  isthmian  railroad.  This  name  in  late 
years  has  been  very  little  used. 

"After  Colon  was  burned  in  the  revolution  of  1885  it  was 


/^  A  NZ  A  N  /  LLO      BAY 


2  i-tMaj' 

MANZANIULO  PT. 


rebuilt  on  a  larger  plan  and  on  better  drained  ground,  but  it 
is  still  a  very  unheal thful  place." — New  York  Sun,  Novem- 
ber IS,  1903. 

"The  city  of  Colon  has  a  jjopulation  of  about  13,000.  The 
mean  temperature  is  80.6°  F.  The  air  is  most  oppressive 
and  saturated  with  moisture.  The  city  is  generally  composed 
of  miserable  frame  houses  and  small  stores.  At  the  mouth 
of  the  canal  is  a  fine  statue  of  C'olumlnis,  and  near  it  are 
grouped  the  houses  of  the  old  French  company,  now  unoccu- 
pied, but  still  in  a  fair  state  of  repair.     Two  of  these  Avere 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  151 

once  handsome — the  liouses  of  M.  de  Lesseps  and  his  sou. 
At  the  other  end  of  the  city  is  the  large  hotel  owned  by  the 
railroad  company  and  about  it  are  grouped  many  comforta- 
ble houses  belonging  to  foreigners.  The  other  chief  build- 
ings are  the  stations  and  storehouses  of  the  railroad  and 
steamship  companies.  These  could  be  used  as  excellent  l)ar- 
racks  for  troops  to  the  number  of  1,200. 

"A  great  many  supplies,  such  as  canned  goods,  could  be 
obtained  iu  Colon.  There  is  a  hotel  in  Colon,  run  on  the 
American  plan,  which  will  accommodate  about  100  to  150  peo- 
ple. The  best  drinking  water  obtainable  is  from  the  cisterns. 
Supplies  of  all  kinds  could  be  transported  across  the  Isthmus 
by  the  railroad. 

"The  buildings  which  might  be  used  as  barracks  for  trooj)s 
have  already  been  mentioned.  Near  Colon  there  are  really 
no  suitable  locations  for  camps,  the  country  being  generallj^ 
too  swampy  about  the  city.  The  climate  is  hot.  The  rain- 
fall during  the  rainy  season  is  very  heavy. 

"Troops  should  not  be  landed  from  ships  in  Colon  for  any 
length  of  time  before  operations  were  to  begin.  It  would  be 
preferable  to  keep  them  aboard  ship.  The  sanitary  condi- 
tion of  Colon  could  be  very  much  improved.  At  present  it  is 
very  ba<l. 

"There  is  an  old  frame  building,  covered  with  galvanized 
iron,  two  stories  in  height,  above  50  by  70  feet,  along  the 
railroad  in  the  southern  part  of  the  town  which  was  used  as  a 
railroad  station,  but  it  is  now  occupied  by  about  75  Colombian 
troops. 

"The  population  of  C'olon  is  made  up  of  a  few  Americans, 
who  have  small  stores,  quite  a  number  of  French,  who  have 
general  merchandise  establishments,  and  a  few  Jews,  who 
are  monej^  changers  and  pawnbrokers.  The  negro  popula- 
tion are  generally  English  subjects  and  come  from  the  island 
of  Jamaica. 

"The  railroad  trains  all  have  good,  energetic  American 
conductors  and  engineers. 

"  Coal  for  ships  and  for  tlie  use  of  the  railroad  company  is 
shipped  from  Norfolk,  Va.,  generally.  The  railroad  company 
generally  keeps  a  supply  of  about  500  tons.  The  maximum 
rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  at  Colon  is  2  feet." — Report  of  Capt. 
C  B.  Huriiphreij,  Twenty-second  Inffrntrij,  1903. 

"At  Colon  is  the  ice  plant  of  the  Panama  Railway  Com- 
pany.    The  output  is  about  35  tons  monthly.     Its  capacity  is 


152 


T!TOTES    CW    PANAMA. 


2  tons  per  twentj'^-foiir  hours.  The  ice  is  sold  at  tlie  rate  of  1 
cent  per  poimd  gold,  but  only  to  emplo3^ees  of  the  railroad." — 
Cotmnercial  Relations,  1898  and  1902. 

"There  are  ample  quarters;  best  near  light-house  or  on 
terreplein.  Hospital  accommodation,  500;  water  sui^ply, 
fair.  Principal  water  supply  from  Frijoles  or  Monkey  Hill. 
All  water  should  be  boiled  before  use.  Ample  stores.  Tele- 
graph cable  to  Jamaica  lands  over  the  reef  at  a  hut  with  shed 
roof  near  light-house.  Landing  best  made  at  wharves  or  to 
leeward  of  terreplein.  As  a  rule  wharves  have  no  steps  or 
derricks;  No.  7  is  an  exception;  artillery  maj^  land  on  it. 
Landing  may  be  made  by  a  limited  number  of  boats  in  a 
bight  on  eastern  shore,  near  Rees  Point;  it  should  be  ap- 
proached with  caution.  A  cart  road  leads  from  this  point 
across  to  town,  entering  it  abreast  of  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
wharf.  Landing  can  also  be  made  from  Limon  Bay  upon 
canal,  between  kilometer  .3  and  4.  The  beach  here  is  hard; 
nc  surf.  The  causeway  and  wharves  should  be  guarded. 
Numerous  tugs,  steam  launches,  and  barges  belong  to  canal. 
T>Y\  dock  near  canal  entrance.  The  Chagres  is  navigable  for 
boats  up  to  Gatun. 

'^Buhio  Soldado. — Sixteen  miles  from  Colon;  215  frame 
houses,  120  huts.  Small  machine  shop.  Springs  of  fairlj- 
good  water  near  railroad  station.     Telegraph  station. 


^^ Gatun. — Seven  and  one-fourth  miles  from  Colon.  Canal 
village  on  east  bank  of  Chagres;  Indian  village  on  west  bank. 
Comuiunication  with  Aspinwall  by  canal,  railway,  or  Chagres; 


W.  T.  CONWAY 

1«  LIEUT.  (Jth  INFANTRY 


W.T.  fl^WAV 

1st  LIEUT,  bth  INFANTRY 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


153 


40  or  50  frame  houses;  avei-age  eapaeit}',  8  to  12  men;  150 
huts.  Poi)ulatioii:  White,  75;  natives,  1,200  to  1,500.  Re- 
pair facilities  for  small  vessels.  Water  tank  for  locomotives. 
Potable  well  and  spring  water.  Telegraph  station.  River 
not  fordable.  Favorable  i)osition  for  resisting  attacks.  No 
bridge  over  Chagres.  Railroad  bridge  over  Gatuncillo,  two- 
thirds  mile  south  of  I'ailroad  station. 

^^  Frijoles. — Nineteen  miles  from  Colon.  Best  and  largest 
supply  of  drinking  water  on  the  Isthmus.  The  creek  from 
which  this  is  taken  should  be  guarded ;  best  i^osition  for  guard 
on  Frijole  Hill.  Steam  pumps;  water  tanks  of  8,000  gallons 
capacit}'  each.  Telegraph  office.  Only  a  few  frame  houses 
and  huts. 


Tavernii.la. 


^'' TavertiiUd. — 'J'wenty-one  miles  from  Colon.  Canal  vil- 
lage; 40  frame  houses;  20  huts.  Best  site  for  camp  on  hill  to 
eastward  of  railroad.     Fair  suppl}^  of  spring  water. 

"aSV^;  Pablo  and  Barhacoan  Bridge. — Twenty-three  and 
one-half  miles  from  Colon.  Twenty  frame  houses;  100  huts. 
Population,  60  whites,  1,800  others.  No  water  in  village. 
Spring  on  hill  at  Aspinwall  end  of  bridge,  400  gallons  a  day. 
No  telegraph.  Barbacoas  Railroad  bridge  over  Chagres,  700 
yards  northwest  of  railroad  station,  built  of  iron;  stone  piers; 
is  617  feet  long;  plank  footway  between  the  rails.  Aspinwall 
end  furnishes  best  site  for  camp  or  guard — one  of  the  most 
important  on  line  of  transit — should  be  held  by  strong  guard. 


154 


NOTES -ON    PANAMA. 


'■'■Qorgona. — Tweiity-eig'lit  and  three-fonrths  miles  from 
Colon.  Comparatively  healthy.  Small  springs.  No  tele- 
graph. Forty  frame  houses;  350  huts.  Eight}'  whites,  2,000 
natives,  etc. 


GORfiOXA. 


^^ Mafacliin. — Thirty  miles  from  Colon,  174  from  Panama. 
Unhealthj-  in  late  summer  and  fall.  Eighty  frame  houses, 
capacity  600  to  800;  200  hnts.     One  hundred  whites,  1,000  to 


3,000  natives,  etc.  Spring  on  east  slope  of  hill.  River  water 
dangerous.  Trail  for  i^ack  animals  between  Gorgona, 
Matachin,  and  southward.     Suspension  and  pontoon  bridges 


N()TP:8    on    PANAMA. 


155 


across  Chngres.  C'hagres  here  turns  to  northeast.  Strongest 
site  for  resistance  on  hill  near  railroad  track,  one-fourth 
mile  to  southward  of  station.  It  is  unhealthy.  Best  site  for 
camp  on  hill  immediately  in  rear  of  railroad  station. 

^"Gamboa. — One  mile  from  Matachin.  Excellent  site  for 
quartering  men,  holding  them  readj^  for  active  operations  at 
either  end  of  transit.  Exceptionally  healthy.  One  hundred 
huts;  500  native.  River  supplies  good  drinking  water. 
Bridle  path  to  Cruces  (up  Chagres)  and  Panama.  River  cur- 
rent very  strong. 


Lower  Obispo. 

"  Obispo  {lower  and  upper). — Thirty-one  and  one-fourth 
and  32  miles  from  Colon.  Sanitary  conditions  unfavorable. 
Lower  Obispo,  00  frame  houses,  25  huts;  40  whites,  50  natives. 
Upper  Obispo,  45  houses,  80  huts;  25  whites,  300  natives. 
Lower  Obispo  Hill  commands  river  toward  Gamboa,  j)ath 
from  Gamboa  to  Lower  Obispo,  and  railroad  toward  Empire. 
Railroad  bridge  over  Obispo  River  at  Upper  Obispo.  L^pper 
Obispo  Hill  best  site  from  which  to  guard  bridge.  Water 
tank  for  locomotives.  Obispo  River  supplies  fair  drinking 
water. 

^^  Emperador  {or  Etnpire). — Thirty-six  miles  from  Colon, 
11^  from  Panama.  Eight  hundred  and  fifty  frame  houses; 
capacity,  4,000.  Eighty  whites,  3,300  natives,  etc.  Fuel 
abundant.  Water  brought  from  Camacho  Creek.  Best  site 
for  camp  or  resistance  on  hill.     Machine  shops.     Telegraph. 

"  Cidebrn. — Thirty-seven  and  one-eighth  miles  from  Colon, 


156 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


lOf  from  Panama.  The  summit.  Strong  strategic  position. 
Amjjle  quarters — 800  frame  liouses,  400  huts.  Good  water 
supph'  from  springs.     Machine  shops. 

"  Pa?'«/so. — Forty  miles  from  Colon,  7^  miles  from  Panama. 
One  hundred  and  twenty-five  frame  houses,  100  huts.  Fifty 
whites,  750  natives.  Small  sj)rings  give  limited  supplj^  of 
water.     Telegraph. 

^^  La  Boca. — The  Pacific  entrance  to  canal,  a  suburb  of 
Panama.  Railway  connection  (back  of  town)  with  Panama 
Railwav." 


..,-'-/A^>--"' 


/^/4  C//-/C 
OC£A// 


Panama. — "About  1518  Governor  Pedrarias  Davila  trans- 
ferred to  the  native  village  of  Panama  the  episcopal  see 
and  the  civil  government,  which  had  been  since  1514  at 
Santa  Maria  de  la  Antigua,  in  Darien. 

"The  name  of  Panama  is  believed  to  have  come  to  these 
coasts  from  an  aboriginal  w^ord  which  signified  "abundance 
of  fish,"  according  to  several  historians,  although  according 
to  others  it  was  derived  from  the  fact  that  the  town  was 
founded  near  some  large  trees  which  the  natives  called 
'Panama.' 

"Hardlj'  had  three  years  i^assed  after  the  transfer  of  the 
ecclesiastical  and  civil  governments  to  the  village  of  Panama, 
when  the  latter  obtained  a  city  charter  from  the  Emperor 
Charles  V  (1521). 

"Panama  had  a  mint,  and  in  1535  it  was  made  a  nwal 
audiencia  (judicial  district). 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


157 


"In  this  city,  in  15-25,  the  eouqnerors  F'ranciseo  Pizarro, 
Diego  de  Almagro,  and  Hernando  de  Lufiiie  formed  the  mem- 
orable eompanj^  to  proceed  to  the  conqnest  of  Peru,  which 
enterprise  the  illustrious  Pizarro  accomplished  in  1532. 

"Both  ancient  and  modern  Panama  were  cities  which  mer- 
ited the  name  of  opulent  owing  to  the  extraordinary  com- 
merce which  developed  in  the  Isthmus,  being  the  point  through 
which  all  commerce  between  Peru  and  Spain  had  necessarily 


Explanation 

G. R.P.Pr,perffS,Wharf  ^.GranJCenfral Hofe/. 


w.  Hospital . 

y.Anericait  Consulate 

\.Sta.A/!iCharcl!. 

^PacHlcMailSS.OfF. 

J.Cuirte/. 
K.  CuAftel 
L.Cuii-tel. 

R. Ruins  adjoining 

Monastery. 
s.  Court-^tard,  Main 

Cuart'el 
\i.CentiS.Am.Ca6leC<,. 

f*.Baa.f  Landing  at  half  ^.fhliceSta.  SPrhon. 

H-Cafftedraf. 

yj.  Boston  Ice  Co. 

2 .  Oufsr  Railroad  Station. 

to  pass  until  174:0,  when  navigation  about  Cape  Horn  became 
frequent. 

"Although  of  later  foundation  than  Portobelo,  Nombre  de 
Dios,  and  other  towns,  Panama  gave  its  name  to  the  famous 
isthmus  on  whose  southern  coast  it  is  situated. 

"  Clironiclers,  in  speaking  of  the  cities  of  Panama  and 
Portobelo,  record  the  fact  that  a  road  paved  with  flagstones 
connected  the  two  cities. 

"Being  the  emporiums  of  commerce  between  the  regions  of 


158  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  Panama  and  Portobelo  had  to  suffer 
repeated  attacks,  either  from  English  and  French  i)irates  or 
from  the  Spaniards  themselv^es,  who  raised  the  standard  of 
rebellion  in  Peru  and  Central  America. 

"The  ancient  city  of  Panama  was  situated  about  -t  miles 
to  the  east  of  the  city  now  bearing  the  same  name.  Travel- 
ers still  find  the  ruins  of  that  wealthy  city,  although  they  are 
mostly  hidden  by  an  exuberant  vegetation.  The  remains 
of  many  public  buildings  are  still  seen,  such  as  the  tower  of 
the  cathedral,  the  walls  of  churches,  bridges,  turrets,  cisterns, 
and  part  of  the  pavement  of  the  streets,  all  covered  with  enor- 
mous fig  trees,  pepper  shrubs,  and  numerous  yerbas  moras 
(a  medicinal  herb),  whose  flowers  perfume  the  air  with  fra- 
grant odors. 

"Modern  Panama. — After  the  destruction  of  the  city 
Governor  Fernandez  de  Cordova  resolved  to  change  the  site 
and  chose  for  the  purpose  a  short  peninsula  surrounded  by 
steep  rocks,  easily  defended,  at  the  base  of  Mount  Ancon, 
about  5  miles  southeast  of  the  destroyed  city. 

"The  celebrated  engineer  Alonso  de  Villa-Corta  con- 
structed a  fortified  town,  the  like  of  Avhich  does  not  exist 
anywhere  else  in  South  America,  unless  it  be  Cartagena. 
He  surrounded  it  with  very  strong  walls  several  yards  thick. 
The  uneven  and  rocky  ground  which  was  inclosed  was  filled 
in  afterwards,  so  that  the  surface  of  the  city  became  smooth 
and  level,  with  an  elevation  of  over  20  feet,  there  having 
been  erected,  at  each  end  of  the  front  facing  the  Pacific,  two 
colossal  defensive  bastions,  in  view  of  which  there  was  a 
time  when  it  w^ould  have  been  an  exceedingly  serious  and 
dangerous  undertaking  to  attack  this  city. 

"A  century  ago  Panama  was  considered  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  beaufciful  cities  in  the  world.  The  galleons  which 
arrived  there  laden  with  the  rich  treasures  from  Peru,  to- 
gether with  the  continual  passage  of  adventurers  and  emi- 
grants bound  for  Peru,  rendered  it  the  most  frequented  landing 
point  of  all  western  America.     *     *     * 

"Owing  to  its  advantages  and  conveniences  Panama  would 
have  continued  to  progress  had  it  not  been  for  a  series  of 
causes  which  started  its  decline. 

"At  the  time  of  the  great  immigration  to  California  and 
during  the  period  of  greatest  activity  in  the  work  on  the 
isthmian  railroad  the  hope  was  revived  that  the  city  would 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  159 

return  to  its  former  prosperity.  It  was  frequented  by  innu- 
merable travelers,  and  its  harbors  were  visited  by  thousands 
of  vessels,  but  the  opening  of  tlie  railroad  between  San  Fran- 
cisco and  the  Eastern  States  of  the  North  American  Union 
almost  completelj^  exhausted  these  new  sources  of  wealth. 

"Tlien  came  the  great  fire,  which  occurred  March  7,  1878, 
and  which  almost  entirel}"  completed  the  work  of  destruction 
which  had  been  begun  j'ears  before. 

"Following  upon  the  fire  came  the  epoch  of  the  inaugura- 
cion  of  the  canal  in  Panama,  an  epoch  of  feverish  business 
activit}^  when  money  flowed  in  torrents. 

"The  city  was  soon  rebuilt  and  immediately  began  to 
acquire  those  buildings,  parks,  and  promenades,  as  well  as 
most  of  the  enterprises,  which  give  it  the  seal  of  importance 
and  beauty  which  it  now  possesses. 

"  Unfortunatelj^  on  June  13,  1894,  another  conflagration 
destroj^ed  a  large  part  of  the  northern  part  of  the  city,  in 
which  there  were  some  splendid  buildings.  However,  many 
of  them  have  been  rebuilt  already  and  new  buildings  are 
continually  going  up,  there  being  a  marked  tendency  nowa- 
da3^s  to  build  of  rubble  masonry  instead  of  wood,  which  is  a 
constant  menace  in  these  hot  climates. 

"  Notable  Buildings. — The  cathedral  is  situated  in  the 
principal  square,  and  was  begun  to  be  built  in  1020.  This 
building  consists  of  a  spacious  principal  nave  and  four  lat- 
eral ones,  and  it  possesses  a  magnificent  organ  and  notable 
pictures  and  images. 

"The  episcopal  palace  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
cathedral  park,  and  is  a  large,  beautiful  building  of  the  re- 
naissance style.  Its  fagade  is  elegant  and  adorned  by  some 
fine  moldings. 

"The  government  palace  is  a  solid  and  convenient  edifice 
on  the  southern  lateral  coast  of  the  mercado  (market)  cove. 
It  faces  the  north  and  receives  in  consequence  the  breezes 
which  come  from  that  direction. 

"The  Grand  Central  Hotel,  which  is,  without  doubt,  the 
finest  of  all  the  private  structures,  is  situated  in  the  cathedral 
park.     It  has  four  stories  and  occupies  a  quarter  of  a  block, 

"In  the  same  square  the  Interoceanic  Canal  Company  has 
its  offices  in  another  notable  building  of  solid  and  elegant 
construction,  modern  style,  and  four  stories. 

"The  municipal  palace  (city  hall),  a  handsome  edifice  with 


160  NOTES    OIS     PANAMA. 

three  tiers  of  g;alleries  in  its  front  and  of  considerable  height, 
stands  in  Cathedral  Park  also.  In  its  beautifnl  main  hall 
the  cabildo  {city  council)  meets  and  the  sessions  of  the  de- 
partmental assembly  are  held.  Other  parts  of  the  building 
are  occupied  by  the  Columbus  Library  and  the  offices  of  the 
city  treasury. 

Charitable  institutions. — "The  department  of  charity 
is  well  attended  to  in  the  cities  of  Panama  and  Colon,  which, 
being  the  most  populous  cities  in  the  Isthmus,  are  the  places 
where  charitable  institutions  are  most  needed.  In  the  city 
of  Panama  are  situated  the  following : 

^^Hospitcd  of  the  canal  company. — This  establishment,  con- 
sidered the  best  of  its  class  in  South  America,  was  con- 
structed on  the  best  hygienic  principles  at  the  expense  of 
the  original  canal  company  for  the  exclusive  use  of  the 
employees  and  laborers  in  this  colossal  enterprise. 

"It  consists  of  18  large  rooms,  and  is  attended  by  the  Sis- 
ters of  Charity.  Each  room  contains  40  beds.  It  has  a  com- 
plete apothecary's  shop  and,  besides,  a  surgical  room  supplied 
with  all  the  apparatus  necessary  in  snrgical  operations. 

"It  occupies  a  charming  position,  dominating  the  city  and 
the  beautiful  bay  from  the  elevated  position  on  the  sides  of 
Mount  Ancon  where  it  is  built.  It  is  surrounded  by  gar- 
dens, shade  trees,  and  palms.  The  excessive  heat  which  pre- 
vails in  the  cxiy  during  the  hottest  months  of  summer  is 
never  felt  here. 

^''Foreign  hospital. —T\x\^  hospital,  also  situated  on  Mount 
Ancon  and  built  on  the  same  hj^gienic  principles  as  that  of 
the  canal  company,  was  built  under  the  auspices  of  the  for- 
eigners residing  in  the  city,  Avho  contribute  to  its  support. 
It  has  a  capacity  for  70  to  80  patients.  Foreigners  and  so- 
journers can  secure  good  treatment  in  this  establishment  by 
paying  a  certain  sum,  varying  according  to  category  and 
service  required,  but  not  generally  exceeding  |1  per  day. 

'■''Santo  Tomas  Hospital. — This  hospital  is  in  the  city  and 
is  a  purely  charitable  institution.  It  is  attended  by  Sisters 
of  Charity  and  governed  by  a  board  of  five  meml)ers. 

"The  number  of  Sisters  of  Charity  attending  in  the  hos- 
pital is  eleven,  one  acting  as  superior. 

"T/ie  pesthouse  ofPunta  Mala. — By  this  name  is  designated 
a  house  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town  where  let)ers  are  kept. 
This  house  is  far  fi-om  being  a  regular  pestliouse,  a7id  this 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  1()1 

fact  is  realized  by  the  CTOvernment,  which  is  malcing  efforts 
to  found  one.  For  this  purpose  the  decree  of  January  13, 
1897,  was  issued,  creating  the  lepros}'  board,  composed  of 
nine  members,  among  them  being  two  pliysicians. 

"The  total  number  of  lepers  in  the  department  is  50,  the 
number  of  eases  in  the  province  of  Panama  being  24,  in  Colon 
24,  in  Chiriqui  1,  and  in  Los  Santos  1.  There  were  only  23 
cases  in  1802,  of  which  18  were  in  the  province  of  Panama 
and  5  in  that  of  Colon.  It  is  believed  on  good  grounds  that 
the  great  increase  was  not  due  to  contagion  or  spontaneous 
contraction  of  the  disease,  but  to  the  immigration  of  infected 
persons. 

"TAe  Bolivar  Asijhdii  (southern  extremity  of  the  Bocas  del 
Toro  highwajO- — 1'he  Bolivar  Asylum  is  a  purely  charitable 
institution,  founded  in  this  citj'  b}'  the  pliilanthroj)ist.  Gen. 
Tonn'is  Herrera,  and  other  gentlemen  and  distinguished  Pana- 
manian ladies.  It  is  an  institution  of  refuge  for  beggars 
prijicipall}^,  but  its  doors  are  open  to  all  persons  unable  to 
earn  a  livelihood  or  temporarily  out  of  emplo^'ment,  who  here 
find  shelter  and  food  until  they  can  improve  their  condition. 
It  does  not  admit  insane  peoj)le  or  persons  suffering  from  a 
contagious  disease.  It  is  sustained  mainly  by  voluntary  con- 
tributions, but  also  receives  a  certain  quota  from  the  profits 
of  the  Panama  lottery.  The  establishment  is  spacious  and 
well  ventilated,  and  the  service  and  sanitation  are  good. 
The  average  daily  number  of  persons  sheltered  is  calculated 
at  155. 

'■''Oijjhan  A.syhiiii  of  the  Daughters  of  San  Viceutede  Paul. — 
This  institution,  presided  over  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  was 
founded  in  1895  ])y  the  Rev.  Mr.  Parra,  who  is  now  bishop  of 
Pamplona.  He  donated  to  it  the  building  which  it  occupies. 
Children  taken  in  here  are  given  food,  shelter,  and  a  good 
Christian  education. 

^'■Asylum  of  San  Jose  de  Malamho. — This  is  an  establish- 
ment for  orphans,  founded  hy  Mr.  Manuel  Jaen  in  1889  and 
put  in  operation  in  1890.  It  is  a  two-story  building,  is  situ- 
ated in  an  open,  airj^  place,  and  can  easily  accommodate  50 
children. 

"Promenades,  etc. — One  of  the  interesting  promenades 

is  the  ascent  to  the  top  of  Mount  Ancon,  which  is  236  feet 

high,  and  from  wdiich  a  view  of  the  whole  city  is  commanded. 

When  its  summit  is  reached,  the  eye  takes  in  the  whole  im- 

12312—03 11 


162  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

mense  Gulf  of  Panama  and  its  pretty  islands,  as  well  as  the 
Rio  Grande  throughout  its  whole  extent.     *     *     * 

"All  the  environs  of  Panama  are  occupied  1)}^  extensive 
and  beautiful  haciendas  (farms),  where  the  owners  and  farm- 
ers pass  the  hottest  part  of  the  summer,  for  which  reason  the 
countr}^  is  crossed  by  paths  and  good  roads,  through  some  of 
which  carriages  can  conveniently  pass.     *     *     * 

"  The  nearest  and  most  popular  summer  resorts  are  Sabanas, 
Taboga,  Gorgona,  Chorrera,  El  Valle,  Anton,  and  many  others. 
All  these  j)laces  have  many  clear  brooks  and  enjoj'  an  agree- 
able temperature.  Provisions  are  also  i^lentiful,  and  the  milk 
is  excellent  and  cheap.  This  is  a  valuable  resource,  for  dur- 
ing the  months  of  December,  January,  and  February  the  heat 
renders  living  in  the  capital  very  trying. 

"The  means  of  reaching  these  summer  resorts  are  cheap 
and  easy.  Taboga  is  one  of  the  islands  situated  in  front  of 
the  city,  and  is  reached  by  sailing  vessels  in  from  one  to  four 
hours,  according  to  the  breeze  blowing,  while  in  steamboats 
hardlj^  three-quarters  of  an  hour  are  consumed  in  the  trip. 

"Sabana  is  reached  in  a  carriage  and  Gorgona  by  rail,  the 
latter  place  being  situated  at  an  elevated  and  agreea))le  point 
on  the  line. 

"To  La  Chorrera,  El  Valle,  Anton,  and  other  towns  of  the 
interior  the  trip  is  made  via  the  Pacific  to  the  ports  of  La 
Chorrera,  Capira,  Chame,  San  Carlos,  etc.,  and  thence  by 
bridle  paths." — Directory  of  Panama,  1898. 

"Panama  is  a  city  of  about  30,000  inhabitants.  To  the 
northeast  of  the  city  is  located  a  small  harbor,  where  small 
steam  vessels  and  schooners  may  enter  at  high  tide.  A  gar- 
rison of  about  450  well-drilled  Colombian  troops  is  stationed 
in  the  cuartel  in  the  "Plaza  des  Armas"  in  the  city  of 
Panama.  These  troops,  commanded  by  a  Colombian  gen- 
eral, drill  accoi'ding  to  Upton's  tactics,  and  use  the  same 
bugle  calls  as  those  nsed  by  the  United  States  Army." — 
Report  of  Capt.  C.  B.  Humphrey,  Tn-enty-second  Infantry, 
1903. 

"Panama  is  47|  miles  from  Colon.  Ample  quarters;  best 
at  railroad  station.  Hospitals  for  more  than  500.  Best  posi- 
tion for  camp  at  railway  yard  and  wharf.  Ancon  Hill  domi- 
nates and  commands  all  api)roaches.     Usual  garrison,  500 


NOTKS    ON    PANAMA.  103 

trooi)s.  Boat  lanclin.u"  at  niilroad  wliai-f  or  beach.  Another 
hindiiig  at  half  tid(;  at  foot  C.  de  Narino.  One  revenue  cut- 
ter on  Pacific  coast.     Rise  and  fall  of  tide,  15  to  22  feet. 

"Tlie  time  from  Panama  to  New  York  is  seven  days;  San 
Francisco  al)out  twenty  days.  Tliere  are  two  cable  com- 
panies in  the  city,  an  electric-liglit  plant,  and  an  electric 
street-car  line,  which  runs  from  one  end  of  the  city  to  the 
othei". 

"■  Divitld. — Divala  has  an  elevation  of  538  feet  and  is  sit- 
uated near  the  west  or  riyht  bank  of  the  river  of  the  same 
name. 

^^  David. — David,  GO  miles  from  the  frontier,  is  the  capital 
of  the  province  of  Chiriqui,  contains  about  9,000  inhabitants, 
possesses  gold  mines  and  numerous  herds,  and  has  excellent 
pasture  lands.  The  elevation  of  David  is  66  feet  above  the 
sea. 

"  Santi(((jo. — At  a  distance  of  1!)0  miles  from  the  frontier 
we  tonch  the  town  of  Santiago,  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
Veraguas.  Santiago  has  a  population  of  abont  6,000  inhab- 
itants, who  are  occupied  with  the  extraction  of  gold,  the  rais- 
ing of  stock,  and  the  fal)rication  of  cotton  and  woolen  goods. 
The  town  has  an  elevation  of  302  feet  above  the  sea. 

^^Agiia  DnJce. — -Agua  Dulce  is  a  village  in  the  Province  of 
Code,  the  capital  of  which  is  Penonome,  with  a  population 
of  about  15,000  inhabitants.  The  province  possesses  a  very 
fertile  soil,  on  which  flourish  large  plantations  of  tobacco, 
cacao,  and  coffee. 

'"'■Anton. — Proceeding  via  Nata  and  crossing  numerous 
streams  almost  at  right  angles,  but  on  very  nearlj^  level 
ground,  the  town  of  Anton  is  attained  at  a  distance  of  248 
miles  from  the  assumed  boundary. 

^'■San  Carlos. — The  next  important  place  touched  is  San 
Carlos,  situated  very  near  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  belonging 
to  the  Province  of  Panama.  Passing  by  Chame,  Capira,  and 
the  town  of  Chorrera,  the  city  of  Panama  is  finally  reached 
at  a  distance  of  334  miles  from  the  Rio  Golfito." — Report  of 
Intercontinental  Bailway  Commission,  1891-93,  Vol.  1. 

'"'■Nata. — Nata  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements,  in  America, 
dating  from  1512,  some  time  befor(^  the  name  of  Mexico  was 
known  in  Europe. 


164  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

^''Biigaba. — Bnjiaba,  near  David,  is  sitiiatefl  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  location  of  the  old  graves,  full  of  gold  ornaments, 
which,  in  1860,  gave  the  Chiriqni  district  a  t.einporaiy  renown 
as  a  new  El  Dorado." — New  York  Sun,  Norernher  15,  1903. 

''''Bocns  del  Toro  is  a  thriving  town  rapidly  coming  into 
prominence  as  the  point  of  export  for  a  large  district,  rich  in 
native  products,  and  with  an  immense  area  of  unoccupied 
land,  suitable  for  the  cultivation  of  cocoanuts,  ])ananas,  and 
other  tropical  fruits  for  wliich  the  demand  is  apparently  a 
matter  of  constant  growth. 

"Rice  and  sugar  in  the  low  lands  and  coffee  and  cocoa  in 
the  higher  districts  of  the  interior  may  also  be  cultivated  to 
great  profit  and  brought  to  this  port  b}'  roads  over  a  coun- 
try which  offers  great  facilities  for  cheap  construction  and 
easy  maintenance. 

"Although  the  population  is  made  up  to  a  considerable 
extent  of  natives  of  the  West  India  Islands,  who  are  British 
subjects,  the  export  trade  is  entirely  in  American  hands,  and 
the  import  trade  is  chiefly  American,  with  slight  diversions 
in  favor  of  Jamaica  and  Colon." — Bulletin  No.  33,  Bureau 
of  American  Eepuhlics.  BrifisJi  Consular  Reporh  for  ISOO, 
Colombia. 

"San  Blas  District.— This  district,  situated  to  the  north- 
east of  Colon,  at  a  distance  of  about  30  miles,  wliich  has  not 
been  opened  to  civilization  or  settlement — as  the  Indians  in- 
habiting its  coast  and  mountains  are  i^ractically  unconquered 
and  openly  hostile  to  Colombian  rule — is  but  little  known." — 
Colombia.  British  Diplomatic  and  Consular  Reports  of 
Trade  and  Finance.  Report  for  the  yeayr  1809  on  the  Trade 
of  the  District  of  Panama. 

(e)  LINES  OF  TRAVEL  AND  COMMUNICATION. 

Canals. — "In  1878  the  Colombian  Governnient  granted  a 
concession  for  building  the  Panama  Canal,  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing j^ear  M.  de  Lesseps  took  the  matter  up.  A  companj* 
was  organized,  with  a  nominal  capital  of  000,000,000  francs 
(^115,800,000),  to  be  obtained  by  popular  subscriptions  in 
France,  and.  the  work  of  construction  was  begun  in  October, 
1881.  The  canal  Avas  to  follow  much  the  same  route  as  that 
of  the  railway  from  Colon  to  Pananui.  It  was  to  be  o-t  miles 
in  length,  the  bottom  to  lie  28  feet  below  the  mean  level  of 
the  oceans,  the  width  to  be  72  feet  at  bottom  and  IGO  feet  at 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  1(>5 

top,  except  ill  tli(i  section  tlirouuii  the  C'ulebra  Ridge,  wliere 
the  depth  was  to  be  '.)  meters  (2!i.o2  feet),  llie  bottom  width  24 
meters  (78.91  feet),  and  the  top  widtli  28  metei-s  (01. 8G  feet). 
The  special  diflficnlties  to  be  encountered  were  the  piercing 
of  tlie  Cordillera  and  the  overflow  of  tlie  Chagres  Kiver  and 
its  tributaries.  In  January,  1884,  a  little  more  tlian  two  j-ears 
after  beginning  the  work,  but  one-tliirtieth  of  the  excavation 
had  been  completed,  although  during  1883  a  force  of  ll,O(»0 
men  was  employed.  The  cost  of  the  work  proved  to  be  enor- 
mous, and  much  of  the  money,  it  was  claimed,  was  wasted 
b3'  extravagant  management. 

"According  to  the  handbook  of  Colombia  published  by  the 
Bureau  of  American  Republics,  the  canal  comimny  had 
raised,  up  to  June  30,  1886,  the  sum  of  772,545,412  francs 
($149,101,2(34),  or  172,545,412  francs  (6:3:], 301, 204)  more  than 
the  original  estimate,  and  it  was  then  stated  that  nearly  as 
much  more  would  be  required  to  complete  the  work.  Finally, 
in  March,  1890,  work  was  stopped  for  want  of  funds,  and  pro- 
visional administrators  were  appointed  by  the  French  courts. 
Various  schemes  of  reorganization  were  proposed,  but  little 
of  actual  importance  was  effected  Iintil  1804." — Coinnu-'rcial 
Directory  of  the  Aiiiericaii  Rejjithtics,  1<S!>7. 

"In  1804  a  new  company  was  formed,  which  obtained  a 
concession  for  ten  years,  extended  in  1000  b}'  six  years,  so  as 
to  terminate  in  April,  1010.  By  that  time  the  canal,  accord- 
ing to  the  annual  report  of  1800,  might  be  completed  at  a  cost 
of  512,000,000  francs  (^20,480,000).  On  January  4,  1902,  the 
board  of  the  company  offered  to  sell  to  the  United  States  all 
their  rights  and  property.  In  view  of  this  offer  the  United 
States  Isthmian  Canal  Commission  recommended  the  Panama 
route,  and  on  Januaiy  22,  1003,  a  treat}"  was  signed  whereby 
the  United  States  obtains  a  lease  of  the  necessary  strip  of  land 
for  one  hundred  years,  renewable  at  the  pleasure  of  the  United 
States.  The  treaty  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United 
States,  signed  November  18  and  ratified  by  the  United  States 
Senate  December  IG,  1001,  provided  for  the  neutralization  of 
the  interoceanic  canal  by  whatever  route  it  may  be  constructed 
and  for  its  use  on  equal  terms  by  vessels  of  all  nations." — 
TJie  Sfatesmcur.s  Year  Book,  JW3. 

"The  natural  attractions  of  the  Panama  route  lie  in  the 
combination  of  a  verv  narrow  isthmus  with  a  Ioav  summit. 
The  width  of  the  Isthmus  is  less  tlian  35  miles  in  a  straight 


166  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

line,  wliile  the  suiiimit  is  Inirely  oOO  feet  above  mean  tide 
which,  tliough  higher  than  tlie  Nicaragua  snmmit,  is  less  than 
half  tlie  height  of  any  other  which  has  been  investigated. 
Tlie  high  portion  of  the  Isthmns  is  limited  to  a  width  of  al)ont 
6  miles  near  the  Pacific  side,  and  the  Chagres  River  affords 
access  hy  canoe  navigation  to  within  15  miles  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean. 

"  The  Isthmus  here  runs  nearly  east  and  west,  but  the  course 
of  the  railroad  or  canal  is  from  northwest  to  southeast,  the 
Pacific  terminus  being  about  20  miles  farther  east  than  the 
Atlantic.  The  Atlantic  port  is  Colon,  and  the  Pacific  port 
Panama.  Neither  is  a  first-class  harbor.  The  defect  of  Colon 
Harbor  is  its  exposure  to  strong  northerly  winds,  which,  though 
rare,  occur  for  periods  of  a  few  days  everj^  year,  and  while 
they  iDrevail  ships  may  go  to  sea  for  safety.  Panama  Harbor 
is  a  roadstead,  behind  islands,  at  the  head  of  a  great  bay. 

"The  old  Panama  Canal  Company,  organized  in  1879,  pro- 
jected a  tide-level  canal,  47  miles  in  length,  between  the  two 
oceans.  Five  miles  were  in  the  coastal  plain  near  Colon,  24 
in  the  valley  of  the  Chagres,  6  in  the  hills  which  form  the 
divide,  7  in  the  valley  of  tlie  Rio  Grande,  a  small  stream  run- 
ning from  the  hills  into  Panama  Baj%  and  5  in  the  harljor  ap- 
l^roaches.  Two  principal  difficulties  were  encountered:  The 
line  of  the  vallej^  of  the  Chagres  involved  an  excavation  be- 
low the  bed  of  the  river,  which  rises  in  the  mountains  east  of 
Panama  in  a  district  subject  to  violent  rains  and  at  times 
floods  its  entire  valley;  the  passage  of  the  divide  in  the  Cule- 
bra  region  involved  an  excavation  of  unprecedented  dimen- 
sions. 

"  Before  the  stoppage  of  work  by  the  old  French  company  the 
scheme  of  a  tide-level  canal  was  abandoned,  and  various  plans 
for  a  canal  with  locks  were  proposed,  the  summit  level  being- 
placed  at  different  heights,  the  highest  l)eing  IGO  feet  above 
mean  tid--^,  to  Avhicli  high  level  it  was  proposed  to  pump  the 
water.  The  new  French  company  adoj^ted  a  scheme  in  which 
the  summit  level  of  the  canal  is  placed  at  a  minimum  eleva- 
tion of  974^  feet,  approached  b}^  4  locks  in  each  direction,  to 
be  supplied  with  water  from  the  upper  Chagres,  impounded 
by  a  (lam  at  Alhajuela  and  brought  through  a  conduit  10.4 
miles  to  the  canal  at  Obispo.  By  this  ari-angement  the  exca- 
vation in  the  continental  divide  was  reduced  within  such 
limits  that  it  was  thought  the  work  could  be  finished  in  eight 
veais. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  167 

"Bytlie  C'Oiistnictioii  of  a  (lain  across  tlio  C'liagres  at  lioliio 
the  river  between  tliat  point  and  Obispo  was  converted  into 
a  lake  of  sufficient  dimensions  not  to  be  seriously  affected  bj' 
flood  discharges,  while  diversion  channels  were  to  be  con- 
structed on  botli  sides  of  the  canal  from  this  dam  to  tlie  sea. 
With  a  carefully  designed  system  of  sluices  and  controlling 
works  the  violence  of  the  floods  was  to  be  checked  by 
impounding  the  water  both  above  the  Alhajuela  dam  and  in 
Lake  Bohio,  so  as  to  keep  the  flow  below  the  Bohio  dam 
within  the  capacity  of  the  two  diversion  channels.  The 
adoption  of  this  scheme  bj""  the  French  engineers  in  prefer- 
ence to  a  simpler  plan,  which  was  fully  discussed  by  them, 
was  determined  bj^  the  limits  of  time  to  which  the  company 
was  restricted.  As  the  conditions  would  be  different  if  the 
canal  were  constructed  by  the  United  States,  the  commission 
has  adopted  a  simpler  plan,  avoiding  complicated  construc- 
tions like  the  conduit  for  the  summit  supply  of  water  and 
making  the  regulation  of  the  floods  as  nearly  as  possible 
automatic. 

"  AVith  the  cliange  from  the  tide-level  canal  to  a  canal  with 
locks,  a  third  problem  was  added  to  the  other  two — the  sup- 
ph"  of  water  for  the  summit  level.  The  only  available  source 
of  suppl}^  is  the  Chagres  River.  This  brings  the  water  sup- 
ply into  such  intimate  relation  with  the  control  of  the  flood 
disciiai-ge  that  the  two  become  practically  one  and  must  be 
treated  together.  The  discharge  of  the  Chagres  at  Bohio 
varies  from  a  minimum  of  about  350  to  a  maximum  of  over 
100,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  the  extreme  flood  discharge 
being  about  300  times  the  low-water  discharge.  The  esti- 
mated requirement  for  the  operation  of  the  canal,  with  an 
annual  traffic  of  10,000,000  tons  net  register,  is  1,067  cubic 
feet  per  second.  The  discharge  of  the  Chagres  exceeds  this 
in  some  j^ears  for  every  month,  and  in  all  years,  except  for  a 
short  period  in  February,  March,  and  April,  provision  must 
])e  made  for  the  storage  of  enough  water  to  supply  the  deh- 
ciencj"  during  these  three  diy  months.  The  best  storage  place 
for  this  watei-  is  in  the  lake  foi-med  in  the  valley  of  the  Cha- 
gres, making  it  of  sufficient  depth  to  allow  the  needed  supply 
to  be  drawn  oil  without  lowering  the  level  enough  to  impede 
navigation. 

"The  greatest  flood  of  Avhich  there  is  any  record  occurred 
in  1879.     From  the  imperfect  information  Ave  have  it  has  been 


168  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

estimated  that  it  may  have  reached  a  maximum  discharge  of 
75,000  cubic  feet  per  second  at  Gamboa,  and  110,000  at  Bohio. 
There  is  no  record  of  any  other  flood  in  which  the  discharge  at 
Bohio  exceeded  80,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  while  the  floods  in 
wliich  it  exceeds  o0,000  are  at  such  rare  intervals  tliat  their 
effect  on  navigation  would  not  l)e  serious.  The  works  should 
be  so  designed  tliat  a  flood  of  70,000  cubic  feet  per  second 
would  i^roduce  no  currents  which  would  interfere  with  navi- 
gation, the  limit  of  such  currents  being  fixed  at  3  feet  per 
second,  and  that  a  flood  of  twice  this  amount,  or  a  discharge 
of  140,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  while  it  might  temporarily 
suspend  navigation,  should  not  injure  the  structure  of  the 
canal. 

"  Xo  location  suitable  for  a  dam  exists  on  the  Chagres 
River  below  Bohio,  and  while  this  location  is  not  Avithout  dif- 
ficulties it  has  the  great  advantage  that  about  3  miles  south- 
west of  the  dam.  near  the  head  of  the  Rio  Gigante,  a  triljutarj'  of 
the  Chagres,  there  exists  an  excellent  site  for  a  spillwaj^  by 
which  the  discharge  from  the  lake  could  be  kept  well  a  waj^  from 
the  dam  and  accessor}^  works.  The  height  of  this  spillway  would 
regulate  the  height  and  area  of  the  lake.  After  careful  con- 
sideration the  Commission  has  decided  to  fix  this  height  at 
85  feet  above  mean  tide  and  to  make  the  spillway  in  the  form 
of  a  fixed  weir  2,000  feet  long.  At  elevation  85  the  lake  has 
an  area  of  38|  square  miles,  more  than  1,000,000,000  square 
feet.  The  height  of  5^  feet  from  the  crest  of  the  weir  to  the 
elevation  required  to  pass  the  maximum  discharge  would  rep- 
resent the  impounding  of  more  than  6,000,000,000  cubic  feet 
of  water.  While  in  the  absence  of  complete  data  exact  cal- 
culations can  not  be  made,  coinj)utations  giving  reasonably 
approximate  results  indicate  that  no  flood  has  jet  occurred 
which  would  raise  the  level  of  the  lake  more  than  a  few  inches 
above  elevation  90.5  or  create  a  discharge  over  the  weir  exceed- 
ing 80,000  ctibic  feet  per  second. 

"The  extreme  possible  effect,  however,  of  along-continued 
flood,  with  a  discharge  of  140,000  cubic  feet  per  second,  for 
which  there  is  absolutely  no  precedent,  as  all  great  floods  are 
of  short  duration,  will  be  to  raise  the  water  over  the  spillway 
to  elevation  92.5  and  to  iDroduce  a  current  of  from  5  to  G  feet 
per  second  in  the  narrow  j)arts  of  the  lake.  Calculations 
have  been  made  of  the  amount  of  water  required  to  supply 
the  deficiencies  in  the  three  dry  months.  An  assumption  of 
a  minimum  average  discharge  of  630  cubic  feet  per  second 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  169 

for  ninety  daj's,  which  is  the  record  of  the  driest  year,  gives 
an  aggregate  deficiency  of  3,398, 100,000  cubic  feet  below  the 
required  supply  of  1,067  cubic  feet  per  second,  which  corre- 
sponds to  a  deptli  of  about  3  feet  over  the  whole  area  of  the 
lake.  Under  these  extreme  conditions  the  level  of  the  lake 
might  therefore  be  lowered  to  elevation  82,  This  represents 
a  range  of  8  feet  from  elevation  82  to  elevation  90  in  Lake 
Bohio  during  navigation.  Any  rise  above  90  would  mean 
nothing  more  than  a  swift  current  for  a  limited  distance,  and 
any  fall  below  82  would  mean  a  temporary-  decrease  in  the 
depth  of  water  in  the  canal. 

"The  overflow  of  Lake  Bohio  would  discharge  through  the 
Giganta  spillway  into  the  Pena  Blanca  Swami3  and  thence 
into  the  Chagres  near  the  point  where  the  Chagres  has  aban- 
doned its  old  channel  and  now  flows  through  the  canal  exca- 
vation made  by  the  old  company.  It  is  necessary  to  con- 
struct a  new  channel  of  large  dimensions  west  of  the  canal  to 
take  the  Chagres.  An  alternate  plan  would  be  to  leave  the 
present  canal  to  carry  off  this  water  and  construct  the  canal 
oh  a  new  location  farther  east.  A  feasible  location  has  been 
found  which,  besides  keeping  the  canal  safely  away  from  the 
Chagres,  is  1:^  miles  shorter  than  the  original  French  line. 
The  old  location  has,  however,  been  retained  in  these  esti- 
mates, the  canal  being  enlarged  to  meet  the  new  dimensions 
adopted  b}"  the  Commission.  This  involves  a  new  channel 
from  the  Marais  de  Peiia  Blanca  to  the  Marais  de  Agua  Clara 
and  a  continuous  levee  for  5  miles  along  the  line  of  the  canal. 

"  The  canal,  as  thus  projected,  may  be  described  as  follows: 

"The  excavation  begins  at  the  0-fathom  line  in  the  harbor 
of  Colon,  with  a  bottom  width  of  500  feet,  and  slopes  of  1  on 
3  through  the  bay  and  lowland  2.62  miles,  of  which  about  1 
mile  is  inside  the  shore  line,  forming  a  narrow,  p)'otected  har- 
bor. The  estimated  cost  of  this  entrance  and  harbor  is 
87,334,673. 

"From  the  inner  end  of  the  harbor  the  bottom  width  of  the 
canal  is  150  feet,  the  side  slopes  of  1  on  3  being  retained  for 
1.96  miles  through  the  swam^),  after  which  they  are  reduced 
to  the  standard  used  in  firm  earth.  This  level  extends  12.56 
miles  to  the  Bohio  locks.  Its  estimated  cost  is  -Sio,718,288. 
At  Bohio  is  located  a  double  flight  of  locks,  having  a  total 
lift  varying  from  82  feet  at  the  minimum  level  of  the  lake  to 
90  feet  at  the  maximum,  45  to  each  lock,  the  normal  lift  being 
85  feet.     These  locks  are  on  the  location  adopted  by  the 


170  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

French  company.  The  estimated  cost  of  this  flight  of  double 
locks,  fonr  lock  chambers  in  all,  is  110,982,345. 

"Above  the  locks  the  canal  enters  the  artificial  lake  formed 
by  the  Bohio  dam  and  known  as  Lake  Bohio.  For  the  first 
7  miles  it  is  a  broad,  deep  body  of  water,  affording  room  for 
anchorage  as  well  as  navigation.  ]>eyond  this  some  light 
excavations  are  necessary.  At  the  u^jper  end  the  channel 
would  be  enlarged  to  provide  for  the  flood  discharge  of  the 
Chagres,  being  given  a  minimum  section  of  50,000  square 
feet.  The  length  of  the  channel  in  Lake  Bohio  is  12.59  miles 
from  the  locks  to  the  point  where  it  enters  the  cut  through 
the  divide.     The  estimated  cost  of  this  section  is  $2,780,449. 

"Near  to  the  entrance  to  the  summit  cut  would  be  placed  a 
pair  of  gates  100  feet  wide,  so  that  if  it  should  become  neces- 
sary to  draw  off  the  water  from  the  summit  cut  the  level  of 
Lake  Bohio  would  not  be  affected.  These  gates  Avould  be  at 
the  site  of  a  lock  proposed  by  the  French  company,  near 
Obispo,  with  a  foundation  on  hard  rock.  The  estimated  cost 
of  these  gates  is  8295,436. 

"The  summit  cut  is  7.95  miles  long  from  the  Obispo  gates 
to  the  Pedro  Miguel  locks.  The  highest  point  is  about  5 
miles  from  the  Obispo  gates,  where  the  bottom  of  the  canal 
is  274  feet  below  the  natural  surface  of  the  ground  at  the 
sides  of  the  cutting.  This  is  the  famous  Culebra  cut,  though 
the  name  has  often  been  applied  only  to  the  mile  of  heaviest 
work.  There  is  a  little  verj^  hard  rock  at  the  eastern  end  of 
this  section,  and  the  western  2  miles  are  in  ordinarj^  materi- 
als. The  remainder  consists  of  a  hard  indurated  clay,  with 
some  softer  material  at  the  top  and  some  strata  and  dikes  of 
hard  rock.  In  fixing  the  price  it  must  be  rated  as  soft  rock, 
but  it  must  be  given  slopes  equivalent  to  those  in  earth. 
This  cut  has  been  estimated  on  the  basis  of  a  bottom  width 
of  150  feet  with  side  slopes  of  one  on  one.  While  the  cut 
may  not  be  finished  with  this  uniform  slope,  this  furnishes 
as  correct  a  basis  of  estimate  as  can  now  be  arrived  at.  The 
entire  cut  would  be  lined  with  masonrj^  walls,  finishing  at  ele- 
vation 92,  2  feet  above  high  water,  these  walls  having  nearly 
vertical  faces  and  furnishing  benches  38  feet  wide  on  either 
side  of  the  canal,  on  one  of  which  the  I*anama  Railroad  would 
be  laid,  while  it  is  probable  that  a  service  track  would  be 
placed  on  the  other. 

"Much  has  been  said  about  the  instability  of  the  Culebra 


'AWi/ll 


J*  f  .  }*  , w 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  171 

€ut.  In  point  of  fact,  there  is  a  claj'  in  the  upper  jjortion  of 
the  deep  cut  wliich  flows  readilj'  when  saturated,  l)ut  which 
will  give  little  trouble  if  thoroughly  drained;  probably  nine- 
tentlis  of  the  material  would  naturallj'  be  classed  as  hard 
clay  of  stable  character.  It  would  weather  somewhat,  and  the 
surface  might  require  some  repairing  with  concrete  in  bad 
places,  a  practice  common  in  deep  cuttings  in  Europe.  This 
clay  disintegrates  rapidly  in  water,  and  for  this  reason  the 
canal  prism  should  be  confined  between  masonry  walls.  AVith 
the  i)rovision  made  for  broad  benches  on  each  side,  on  which 
any  slight  slides  would  be  arrested,  it  is  confidentlj'^  believed 
that  no  trouble  would  be  experienced.  The  estimated  cost 
of  the  G.02  miles  of  heavy  work  is  $41,940,480,  and  of  the 
entire  7.95  miles  between  the  Obispo  gates  and  the  Pedro 
Miguel  locks,  '^44,.378,33o.  It  would  probably  take  eight 
years  to  excavate  this  section  of  the  canal. 

"The  Pedro  Miguel  locks  will  be  similar  to  the  Bohio  locks, 
the  aggregate  lift  vaiTing  from  54  to  02  feet.  There  is  an 
excellent  rock  foundation  here.  The  estimated  cost  of  these 
locks,  including  an  adjacent  dam,  is  $8,496,826. 

"A  level  1.33  miles  long  extends  from  the  Pedro  Miguel 
locks  to  the  last  lock,  which  is  at  jNIiraflores.  The  normal 
elevation  of  the  surface  of  the  water  is  28.  The  estimated 
cost  of  this  section  is  $1,169,611. 

"At  the  end  of  this  level  would  be  located  the  JNIiraflores 
Lock,  with  a  lift  varying  from  18  feet  at  high  tide  to  38  feet 
at  mean  low  tide.  There  is  a  good  rock  foundation  for  this 
lock.  A  spillway  would  be  required  to  regulate  the  height 
of  this  level.  The  estimated  cost  of  this  lock  and  spillway  is 
$5,720,363. 

"  For  4. 12  miles  bey  ond  the  Mirafloi'es  Lock  the  canal  extends 
through  a  low  swamp  country  through  which  the  Rio  Gi-ande 
runs.  Occasional  rock  is  found  here,  but  the  material  is 
generall}'  very  soft,  and  the  canal  has  been  estimated  for  a 
bottom  width  of  150  feet,  with  slopes  of  1  on  3.  This  brings  the 
canal  to  a  point  known  asLa  l)Oca,  where  the  Panama  Railroad 
Company  has  constructed  a  large  and  substantial  wharf.  A 
dredged  channel  200  feet  wide,  with  slopes  of  1  on  3,  would 
extend  here  3.6  miles  to  the  8-fathom  line  in  Panama  Bay. 
The  first  2  miles  of  this  dredged  channel  are  through  flats 
which  are  bare  at  low  w^ater,  where  there  is  a  considerable 
amount  of  submerged  rock.  The  total  cost  of  this  section 
from  the  lock  to  deep  watei*  is  estimated  at  $12,366,914. 


172  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"  liesides  the  works  einbraced  in  the  excavation  of  the  canal 
itself,  there  will  be  five  outlying  works  which  must  be  con- 
sidered. These  are  the  Bohio  dam,  the  Gigante  spillway,  the 
diversion  of  the  lower  Chagres  opposite  Gatun,  the  diversion 
of  the  Gatuncillo  east  of  Gatun,  and  the  diversion  of  the 
Panama  Railroad  around  Lake  Bohio. 

"The  Bohio  dam  is  tlie  most  important  structure  on  the  line. 
A  dam  of  either  earth  or  masonry  is  feasible,  the  latter  being 
the  more  expensive.  The  French  plan  contemplates  a  dam 
of  earth.  It  has  been  decided,  however,  to  use  the  masonry 
type  for  the  purpose  of  these  estimates.  The  foundation 
must  be  carried  to  rock,  the  depth 'to  which  has  not  yet  been 
estimated  at  all  points,  though  the  maximum  is  known  to  be 
not  less  than  128  feet  below  mean  tide.  The  estimated  cost 
of  such  a  dam  is  $8,500,000. 

"  The  Gigante  spillway,  which  is  a  structure  of  considerable 
magnitude,  is  very  simple.  There  is  a  good  rock  foundation 
at  or  above  tide  level  for  the  entire  length  of  this  spillway. 
It  would  consist  of  a  masonry  dam  with  a  crest  at  elevation  85, 
terminating  in  an  apron  at  elevation  65,  with  a  solid  founda- 
tion below  this  level,  the  apron  being  anywhere  below  the  pres- 
ent surface  of  the  ground.  The  foundation  below  elevation  65 
would  be  put  in  first,  and  before  the  flow  of  water  through 
the  present  river  at  the  site  oC  the  Bohio  dam  is  checked. 
The  water  after  passing  over  this  spillway  would  flow  across 
the  country  about  a  mile  to  the  swamp  known  as  the  Marais 
de  Pefia  Bhmca.  The  elevation  of  the  surface  of  this  swamp 
is  now  22.3  feet,  so  that  the  water  would  have  a  fall  of  42.7 
feet  in  this  mile,  whicli  fall  would  be  materiallj^  reduced  in 
extreme  floods  by  the  backing  up  of  water  in  the  swamp. 
Plans  have  been  prepared  for  this  spillway,  and  the  estimated 
cost  is  11,124,524. 

"A  channel  must  be  cut  from  the  Marais  de  Pefia  Blanca  to 
the  Marais  de  Agua  Clara,  the  cost  of  whicli  is  estimated  at 
11,448,076. 

"A channel  was  cut  by  the  old  canal  comi^au}-  to  divert  the 
Chagres  from  the  canal  opposite  Gatun.  This  channel,  how- 
ever, is  of  very  inadequate  dimensions,  and  a  new  channel, 
part  of  which  will  be  an  enlargement  of  the  present  one, 
should  be  cut  here.  It  should  liave  a  cross  section  of  10,000 
square  feet.  Rock  would  be  encountered  in  its  excavation, 
and  its  cost  has  been  estimated  at  11,929,976. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  173 

"  A  diversion  channel,  intended  to  take  part  of  t lie  waters  of 
the  Chagres,  was  constructed  by  the  old  company  along  the 
east  side  of  the  canal  at  Boca  Grande,  l)ack  of  Colon.  This 
cnt  across  the  Gatuncillo  near  Gatun  and  the  portion  of  it 
north  of  this  point  is  available  as  a  new  channel  for  the 
Gatuncillo.  Some  work  must  be  done  on  it,  especially  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Panania  Railroad,  where  the  piers  for  a  new 
bridge  are  completed.  The  cost  of  putting  this  channel  into 
service  is  estimated  at  S10(),000. 

"  From  Bohio  to  the  Obispo  gates  the  Panama  Railroad  must 
be  rebuilt  for  154  miles  on  an  entirely  new  location,  with  a 
bridge  across  the  Chagres  below  Gamboa.  An  estimate 
made  from  approximate  profiles  indicates  that  the  cost  of 
this  diversion  will  not  exceed  875,000  a  mile,  or  81,162,500. 
From  the  Obispo  gates  the  railroad  would  be  carried  for  (3 
miles  on  the  bench  formed  by  the  retaining  wall  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Culebra  cut,  these  6  miles  being  estimated  to  cost 
S!l0,000  a  mile,  which  includes  only  track  laying,  ties,  and 
ballasting.  Beyond  this  will  be  a  mile  of  light  work,  esti- 
mated at  82o,00D,  while  the  main  track  will  have  to  be  raised 
for  2  miles  farther,  at  a  cost  of  820,000.  Combining  these 
figures,  the  total  cost  of  the  diversion  of  the  Panama  Rail- 
road becomes  $1,267,500. 

"Summing  up  the  several  figures  already  given,  the  total 
estimated  cost  of  completing  the  Panama  Canal  is  as  follows: 

Colon  entrance  and  harbor $T,  334, 673 

Harbor  to  Bohio  locks,  inchiding  levee 10,  718, 288 

Bohio  locks,  including  excavation ... 10, 982, 34.5 

Lake  Bohio 2,786,449 

Obispo  gates 295, 436 

Cnlebra  section 44, 378, 335 

Pedro  Mignel  locks,  including  excavation  and  dam 8, 496, 326 

Pedro  Miguel  level 1, 169, 611 

Miraflores  locks,  including  excavation  and  spillway 5,  720, 363 

Pacific  level . 12,366,914 

Bohio  dam 8.500,000 

Gigante  spillway 1 ,  124. 524 

Channel  between  the  marshes 1, 448. 076 

Chagi-es  diversion 1 ,  929, 976 

Gatuncillo  diversion 100, 000 

Panama  Railroad  diversion -  -  -  1.  267, 500 


Total 118,618,816 

Engineering,  police,  sanitation,  and  general  contingencies.  -     23, 723,  763 

Aggregate 142, 342, 579 


174  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

' '  Tliis  estimate  is  for  the  completed  i^roject.  A  canal  begun 
upon  this  plan  may  be  opened  to  navigation  before  its  final 
completion.  If  single  instead  of  double  locks  be  used,  and 
the  bottom  width  be  made  100  instead  of  150  feet,  the  cost 
will  be  reduced  •i'2G,401,364,  and  the  estimate  becomes 
$115,941,215. — Interoceanic  Canal,  Senate  Re-port  1337,  part 
U,  1901. 

"A  canal  is  being  built  from  the  Chanquinola  River,  about 
18  miles  from  Bocas  del  Toro,  to  Almirante  Bay,  opposite 
Bocas  de  Drago,  the  concessionnaire  of  which  is  Mr.  N.  T. 
Snyder,  the  owner  of  nearly"  4,000  acres  of  banana  land  in 
Chanquinola.  This  canal  is  about  8  miles  in  length,  and 
will  oj)en  to  commerce  a  wide  area  of  the  richest  banana  coun- 
try in  the  world,  of  which  about  (J, 000  acres  are  already  cul- 
tivated and  bearing  fruit. — Commercial  Relations,  1902. 

"  Water  Transportation. — The  port  of  Panama,  situated 
on  the  west  side  of  the  bay  of  that  name  and  located  at  one 
of  the  most  interesting  geographical  positions  in  the  Ameri- 
cas, if  not  of  the  world,  is  of  the  greatest  importance.  It  is  a 
halfway  station  on  the  highway  of  commerce  between  Europe 
and  Asia,  yet  it  has  no  direct  line  to  the  Asiatic  ports.  By 
the  way  of  Colon  and  the  Panama  Railroad  it  is  connected 
with  Europe  and  with  the  eastern  part  of  the  United  States 
by  many  steamship  lines,  to  wit:  The  Royal  Mail  Steamship 
Company  (mail  line,  British);  The  Royal  Mail  Steanishij) 
Company  (cargo  line,  British);  Compagnie  Generale  Trans- 
atlantique,  of  Saint-Nazaire  (French);  Compagnie  Generale 
Transatlantique,  of  Havre  and  Bordeaux  (French);  Com- 
pagnie Generale  Transatlantique,  of  Marseilles  (French); 
West  Indies  and  Pacific  Steamship  Company,  of  Liverpool 
(British);  The  Harrison  Line,  of  Liverpool  (British);  Ham- 
burg-American Packet  Companj^  of  Havre  and  Hamburg 
(German);  The  Colombian  Line,  of  New  York  (old  Pacific 
Mail  Steamship  Company,  United  States) ;  Compahia  Trans- 
atlantica,  of  Barcelona  (Spanish);  The  Italian  Line,  of  Genoa 
(Italian).  The  fleets  of  these  companies  aggregate  some  05 
vessels,  some  of  which  are  among  the  finest  sailing  across  the 
ocean. 

^^Soufli  Arncricaii  Steamsliip  Companij. — This  company  has 
steamers  leaving  this  port  every  other  week  bound  for  Chile, 
the  termini  being  Panama  and  Valparaiso,  a  distance  of  some- 
thing over  3,000  miles.     The  itinerary  of  the  lino  is  as  fol- 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


175 


lows:  Buenaventura,  Tuinaco,  Esnieraklas,  Naliia,  Manta, 
Caj'O,  Belleuita,  Guayac£uil,  Tiimbes,  Pa3'ta,  Teehiira,  Pimen- 
tel,  Eten,  Pacasmayo,  Selaverry,  Chinibote,  Samanco,  Casma, 
Huarme}',  Supe,  Huacho,  Callao,  Corro  Azul,  Tanibo  de 
Moro,  Pisco,  Lonias,  C'hala,  Quilca,  Mollendo,  Ilo,  Arica, 
Iquique,  Tocopacilla,  Tobija,  Antofagasta,  Taltal,  Clianaral, 
Caldera,  Carrizal  Ba.jo,  Iluasco,  Cociuinibo,  Valparaiso.  The 
steamers  of  this  line  call  at  all  of  tliese  places.  The  regular 
ports  of  call  for  the  largest  steamers  are  Guayaquil,  Techura, 
Pimentel,  Callao,  Mollendo,  Iquique,  and  Coquimbo.  The 
distance  from  Panama  to  Guayaquil  is  800  miles;  from 
Guayaquil  to  Gallao,  600  miles;  from  Callao  to  Iquique,  G50 
miles,  and  from  Iquique  to  Valparaiso,  800  miles.  This  com- 
pany secures  its  coal  from  Corral,  some  400  miles  south  of 
Valparaiso,  where  splendid  coal  de^josits  are  found. 

"The  fleet  of  this  line  is  composed  of  the  following  vessels: 


steamers. 


Aconcagiia 
Imperial  - . 
Mapocho.  - 

Maipo 

Cachapoal 
Lantara . . . 
Amazones 

Itata , 

Copiapo  -  -  - 


Capac- 
ity. 


Tons. 
3,000 
3,000 
3,(KX) 
2,9.50 
2, 7.5.5 
2, 600 
2,  .500 
2.600 
1,800 


Horse- 
power. 


3,100 

3,000 
3,1100 
2. ( H  K I 
l.iHiO 
1,6(10 
1,,S(I0 
1,5(K) 
1,900 


steamers. 


Limari  , 
Chilian . 
Biobio._ 
Spartan 
Aqiiila  -  - 
Lircai  .- 
Longavi 
Manle  .. 
Pudeto  . 


Capac- 
ity. 


Tons. 
900 
600 
600 
600 
6110 
600 
400 
250 
300 


Horse- 
power. 


6.50 
450 
400 
400 
400 
400 
370 
240 


"Onh^the  largest  of  these  vessels  come  to  this  port,  viz, 
the  Aconcagua,  Imperial,  Mapcjclw,  Maipo,  and  CacliapoaJ. 
The  other  steamers,  especially  the  small  ones,  do  coastwise 
service  and  ascend  the  rivei"S  as  far  as  i)0ssible,  so  that  from 
Valparaiso  to  Panama  there  is  not  a  port  of  importance  in 
Chile,  Peru,  and  Ecuador  that  can  not  be  reached  by  one 
of  these  vessels. 

"The  passenger  (first-class)  rates  are,  from  Panama  to 
Guayaquil,  £13  los.  ($66.81);  from  Guayaquil  to  Callao,  £-20 
(.$97.3:i);  from  Callao  to  Valparaiso,  £11  17s.  6d.  (657.79); 
from  Panama  to  Valparaiso,  £31  17s.  6d.  ($154.63). 

"The  rates  to  all  intermediate  points  are  somewhat  propor- 
tional to  distance.  The  passenger  traffic  is  considerable  Iwth 
ways.-    The  line  is  controlled  by  Chilean  capitalists. 

'■''Tlie  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company. — This  is  an 
English  corporation  (limited),  with  headipiarters  in  Liverpool. 
It  runs  steamers  all  over  tlie  worhl,  fjut  has  a  distinct  line 


176 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


doing'  service  with  Valparaiso,  from  Avhich  iDort  it  runs  a  spe- 
cial line  of  steamers  to  Panama.  The  fleet  is  composed  as 
follows : 


steamers. 

Capac- 
ity. 

Horse- 
power. 

steamers. 

Capac-      Horse- 
ity.         power. 

Tons. 
3.190 

2,600 

1.8IK) 

1.600 

4.50 

900 

2,200 

Pizarro . . 

Ton.s.     ' 
2.160            1.9(10 

Bolivia.. 1,925 

Coquimbo 1,821 

Casma .592 

Manavi                                     1  -  041 

Quito 

Santiago 

Serena -.. 

1.2(i6            1,100 

3.190            2,800 

2.394            2,100 

170               150 

Pnno._- - - 

2,:398 

"These  steamers  make  trips  fortnightly  regularly  and  work 
somewhat  in  conjunction  with  the  South  American  Steamship 
Company,  although  they  are  distinct  lines  under  different 
managements.  There  was  a  time,  not  so  very  long  ago,  when 
the}'  ran  a  powerful  comiietition,  but  tliey  have  i^ooled  their 
issues. 

''The  termini  of  this  particular  line  are  Valparaiso  and 
Panama,  but  it  runs  a  steamer  regularly  to  Puntas  Arenas 
and  back,  principally  for  the  cattle  business.  The  itineraiy 
of  this  company  is  identical  with  that  of  the  South  American 
Steamship  Companj'.  The  rates  for  jiassengers  (first  class) 
from  Valparaiso  to  this  place  and  intermediate  points,  and 
vice  versa,  are  identical  with  those  of  the  same  companj',  as 
are  the  rates  of  freight. 

"  Tliis  comi^any  owns  in  the  I^ay  of  Panama  an  island  called 
the  "Little  Toboga,"  leased  from  the  owner  for  a  number  of 
years.  On  this  island  they  have  waterworks,  which  furnish 
them  all  needed  water  (spring)  for  their  steamers.  Thej" 
maintain  in  this  baj'  a  small  steamer  called  the  Morro,  of  170 
tons,  to  supply  their  vessels  with  water.  This  lease  is  exceed- 
ingly valuable,  as  the  water  is  excellent  and,  so  far  as  known, 
the  onl}'  spring  water  in  this  jjart  of  the  world. 

'^ North  American  Navigation  Comjjaiiij. — This  company 
has  a  fleet  composed  of  the  following  vessels: 


steamers. 

Capacity. 

Horse- 
power. 

St.  Paul 

Tons. 

606.61 
1,240.72 
2,511.40 
2,268.15 
1,919.13 

400 

Mexico 

700 

Keweenaw. 

2,000 
1,900 
1,700 

Saturn 

Progreso 

NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  177 

"  This  company  was  organized  earlj^  in  l.^'.)3  in  San  Fran- 
cisco bj^  some  of  the  leading  mercliaiits  of  iliat  phice,  in 
oj)positiou  to  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company.  It 
operates  in  conjunction  with  the  Panama  Railroad,  through 
bills  of  lading  being  given  from  San  Francisco  direct  to  New 
York  via  Panama  and  Colon,  and  vice  versa.  All  the  vessels 
are  chartered  from  eastern  parties  for  the  term  of  one  j'Car, 
and  the  line  is  controlled  by  Capt.  W.  L.  Merry,  president 
of  the  comjDanj'^,  with  general  offices  in  San  Francisco. 

"It  has  no  accommodations  for  passengers  (first  class)  and 
does  not  pretend  to  carry  anj^,  unless  upon  exceptional  oc- 
casions, and  then  only  as  deck  passengers.  It  carries  a  large 
amount  of  freight  both  from  San  Francisco  to  Panama,  and 
vice  versa.  It  broke  the  monopoly  which  the  Pacific  Mail 
Steamship  Company  had  enjoyed  on  this  coast  for  many 
3'ears.  The  trips  are  somewhat  irregular,  there  Ijeing  no  fixed 
dates  for  arrivals  or  departures,  but  so  far  they  have  aver- 
aged two  trips  per  month  each  way.  The  rates  of  freight, 
owing  to  the  competition  with  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company,  are  verj^  low  and  irregular.  They  (charge  what 
they  can  get — sometimes  less  than  a  cent  per  pound,  often 
only  $2  per  ton. 

"The  ships  of  the  North  American  Navigation  Company 
make  the  trips  direct  from  here  to  San  Francisco  and  return, 
calling  on  rare  occasions  at  Mexican  and  Central  American 
ports.  The  distance  from  San  Francisco  to 'Panama  is  3,9-40 
miles. 

''^The  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company. — This  companj- has 
been  supplying  service  between  San  Francisco,  the  Isthmus, 
and  New  York  for  nearlj'^  half  a  century.  It  is  not  as  power- 
ful in  these  regions  as  it  once  was,  but  promises  ere  long,  if 
all  signs  do  not  fail,  more  than  to  regain  its  former  usefulness 
and  greatness.  It  is  doubtful  if  it  will  ever  have  a  foothold 
south  of  Panama,  nor  does  it  seem  to  care  for  any.  In  fact, 
it  has  not  protected  its  own  coastwise  trade  north  of  Panama, 
as  it  has  allowed  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Compan}-  (Brit- 
ish) to  encroach  on  its  domain,  thac  line  now  having  a  steamer 
doing  service  at  the  expense  of  th^  Pacific  Mail  as  far  north 
as  Puntas  Arenas,  in  Costa  Rica.  This  service  promises  not 
to  stop  there,  and  it  would  not  be  surprising  to  see  the  Pacific 
Steam  Navigation  Company  steam  all  the  way  to  San  Fran- 

12312—03 12 


178 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


Cisco,  unless  the  Pacific  Mail  gives  miicli  better  service  than 
it  now  gives. 

"The  fleet  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company  on  this 
route  consists  of  the  following  vessels: 


steamers. 

Capacity. 

Horse- 
power. 

Steamers. 

Capacity. 

Horse- 
power. 

Colon 

San  Jose 

Tons. 
1,843.50 
1,538.25 
1,759.24 

1,700 

1,450.50 

1.600 

City  of  Sydney 

Tons. 

I,9ft5.88 

1,166.80 

1,548.41 

1,046.30 

1,&59 

1,800 
900 

Acapiilco 

San  Bias  . 

Starbuck  

1,000 

1,496.  .50     1,300 
1,496.  .50     1-3.50 

City  of  Panama 

Barracouta  (Brit.). 

8(X1 

San  Juan 

1,4(K) 

Colima 

2, 143. 23 

2,000 

"The  last  four  are  doing  coasting  service  as  far  up  as  Aca- 
pulco.  They  do  not  go  to  San  Francisco.  The  itinerary 
of  the  company  is  as  follows:  Puntas  Arenas,  San  Juan  del 
Sur,  Corinto,  Amapala,  La  Union,  La  Libertad,  Acajutla, 
San  Jose  de  Guatemala,  Champerico,  Ocos,  San  Benito, 
Tonala,  Salina  Ci-uz,  Puerto  Angel,  Acapulco,  Manzanillo, 
San  Bias,  Mazatlan,  and  San  Francisco. 

"The  main  points  and  their  distances  from  Panama  are: 
Covinto,  74U  miles;  San  Jose  de  Guatemala,  990;  Acapulco, 
1,590;  Manzanillo,  2,140;  San  Bias,  2,225.  The  distance 
between  Panama  and  San  Francisco  is  3,920  miles. 

"  When  the  cofi'ee  ceases  to  move,  one  of  the  coasters  is  with 
drawn  from  the  route,  and  it  then  serves  as  a  coal  ship  in  the 
Bay  of  Paiuima. 

"The  Barracouta  sails  under  the  English  flag. 

"Three  steamers  leave  San  Francisco  for  Panama — on  the 
8th,  18th,  and  28th  of  each  month.  Tliey  return  from  Pan- 
ama to  San  Francisco  on  the  9th,  19th,  and  29th  of  each 
month.  The  coasters  leave  Panama  on  the  10th  and  29th  of 
each  month,  and  tlie}^  aim  to  make  about  one  trip  per  month 
for  each  vessel,  but  this  is  not  very  regnlar,  owing  to  the  dif- 
ficulties in  loading  and  unloading  at  tlie  difl'erent  places  in 
Central  America  and  ^Icxico,  the  system  of  lighterage  being 
in  vogue  at  almost  all  these  ports,  there  being  no  piers. — 
Coinmercial  Directoi-ij  of  the  American  Bepuhlics,  1S97-9S. 

"In  1901-2  on  the  Pacific  coast  the  steamship  lines  engaged 
in  the  isthmian  transit  trade  were  (1)  tlie  Pacific  Mail  Steam- 
.ship  Company  (American)  from  San  Francisco,  Mexican,  and 
CiMilral  American  ports;  (2)  the  Pacific  Steam  Navigation 
Company   (IJrilish);    (;>)    tlie  Campaiiia  Sud   .Vmericana    de 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  179 

Vapores  (Chilean)  from  Valparaiso  and  other  Chilean  ports, 
Peru,  Ecuador,  and  Colombia. 

"On  the  Atlantic  coast  trading  to  Colon  are  (1)  the  Royal 
Mail  Steam  Packet  Company  from  Southampton  and  the 
Lejdand  and  Ilarj-ison  Line  from  Liverpool,  both  represent- 
ing British  trade;  (3)  the  Campagnie  Generale  Transatlan- 
tique  from  Havre,  Bordeaux,  and  St.  Nazaire,  representing  the 
French  trade;  (4)  the  Hamburg- American  Line  from  Ham- 
burg, representing  the  German  trade;  (5)  the  Campaiiia 
Transatlantica  de  Barcelona  from  Barcelona,  representing 
the  Spanish  trade;  (6)  the  Panama  Railroad  Companj^'s 
Steamship  Line  from  New  York,  representing  the  United 
States  trade. — Monthly  Bullefin  of  ilie  Bureau  of  American 
Bepuhlics,  August,  1903. 

"Roads. — The  country  between  Panama  and  "Panama 
Viejo  "  is  very  rolling  and  grown  with  grass,  affording  fine 
pasturage  for  cattle.  Along  this  road  the  country  Avould  also 
afford  excellent  camping  facilities  for  lai-ge  bodies  of  trooj)s. 
The  water  supply  of  Panama  at  the  present  time  is  verj'poor, 
the  only  good  water  being  stored  in  cisterns  Jn  the  city. 
Water  is  also  drawn  from  wells  along  the  railroad  near  the 
city,  but  this  is  exceedingly  impure. — Report  of  Capt.  C.  B. 
HumpJireij,  Twenty-second  Infantry,  1903. 

"The  Sabana  road,  leading  out  of  Panama,  near  rail- 
road station,  forks  a  short  distance  outside  of  town.  The 
east  bi'anch  leads  to  Puerto  Bello,  the  other  to  Cruces  and 
Gorgona.  P^rom  the  latter,  just  east  of  Cardenas  River,  4^ 
miles  from  Panama,  a  path  leads  off  westward  to  Chorrero, 
crossing  the  old  line  of  railway  between  Pedro  Miguel  and 
Rio  Grande  stations,  then  uji  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande 
above  canal  and  railroad.  One  and  one-half  miles  northeast 
of  the  Rio  Grande  station  the  Cruces-Gorgona  road  forks, 
one  branch  leading  to  each  village.  That  to  Cruces  does  not 
again  approach  tlie  railroad,  but  terminates  in  the  valley  of 
upper  Chagres  at  Cruces.  The  Gorgona  road  beyond  the 
fork  crosses  the  railroad  two-thirds  mile  northwest  of  Em- 
pire and  continues  to  Gorgona,  about  one-half  mile  dis- 
tant from  the  west  side  of  railroad.  A  trail  continues  to 
Matacliin.  A  trail  leaves  the  Cruces-Panama  road  a  short 
distance  south  of  Cruces  and  crosses  the  railroad  one-fourth 
mile  south  of  Obispo  station.  It  crosses  the  Gorgona  road 
about  1  mile  northward  of  where  the  latter  crosses  the  rail- 
road. 


180  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"San  Miguel  Region. — The  line  of  our  survey  from  Pan- 
ama was  along  the  mule  trail  to  Chepo;  for  the  first  few 
miles  over  a  moderately  rolling  and  mostly  open  country, 
thence  to  Juan  Diaz  River,  skirting  or  crossing  the  foothills 
from  the  central  range,  from  the  sloping  j)lain  rather,  the 
occasional  flat  ground  heavily  timbered  and  mucky  in  parts 
from  the  late  rains. 

"From  the  Juan  Diaz  to  the  Pacora  j)retty  much  the  same. 
The  axial  cordillera  does  not  run  out  sj)urs  to  the  Pacific. 
Those  spurs  range  only  a  short  distance  from  the  main  mass — 
wooded,  their  declivities  at  an  arable  pitch — and  sink  into  a 
very  moderately  sloping  plain  apj)arently  12  to  15  miles  wide. 
The  line  of  the  trail  is  three-fourths  in  open  prairie.  Many 
large  hard- wood  trees  in  the  forest.  The  subsoil  a  red  or  red- 
dish yellow,  loamj^  clay,  underlain  by  massive  clay  rock — that 
is  to  say,  rock  in  thick  beds— solidified  shale,  as  packets  of 
mouth  glue  becomes  solidified.  It  is  a  better  country  than 
that  passed  bj^  us  Ijetween  David  and  Panama — than  the  last 
200  miles  of  it,  at  least;  better  soiled  and  timbered.  The 
wide  plain  above  noted,  bountifullj^  watered  b}^  perennial 
streams,  is  really,  because  of  erosion,  a  series  of  hardly 
ridges  except  here  and  there,  but  heaves  or  spits,  turtle- 
backed,  generally  open  grass  land,  inclined  just  right  for 
drainage  and  merging  in  a  flat,  adjacent  to  the  sea,  3  or  4 
miles  wide,  coiniDosed  of  the  fine  wash  from  the  upland  and 
heavily  wooded.  We  found  it  hard  baked  and  sun-cracked 
wherever  bare  of  grass.  There  was  a  continuous  crack  2  to 
4  inches  in  width  along  the  middle  of  every  trodden  path, 
however  it  might  wind  or  jog.  The  petrified  hoof  holes 
showed  it  to  be  soft  in  the  rainy  season. 

"From  Pacora  the  trail  ran  northeastward  in  order  to  get 
uphill  and  follow  a  ridge  crest.  Thence  across  a  rolling 
tract  watered  by  affluents  of  Rio  Chico  it  won  the  village  of 
Chepo. 

"Chepo  village  is  on  high  ground,  healthful,  and  free  from 
insects. 

"  We  studied  the  coast  attentively  down  to  San  Miguel 
Bay,  there,  as  farther  east,  observing  that  it  was  character- 
ized by  sea  plain  and  knolls  or  short  ridges,  both  isolated 
and  in  clusters,  quite  detached  from  the  cordillera  except  at 
the  Chiman.  From  our  night's  anchorage  at  the  mouth  of 
Rio  Ti'inidad  we  discovered  a  saddle  in  the  spur  above  Chi- 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  181 

man  village  permitting  transit  from  that  river  soutlieastward. 
At  San  Miguel  Bay  the  surprise  awaited  us  of  finding  a  clear 
vista  northwestward  up  Congo  River  toward  Chiman,  and 
that  the  hills  between  Buenaventura  and  Punta  Brava  were 
outstanding,  an  unexpected  event. 

"On  the  northern  side  of  San  Miguel  Bay  no  obstacle 
appeared.  A  depression  in  the  low  ridge  dividing  Darien 
Harbor  fi-om  the  estuar}'  of  the  Savana  River  admitted  the 
proposed  railroad  line  to  a  crossing  of  that  stream,  which  we 
selected  5  miles  below  its  confluence  with  the  Lara,  after 
an  exi3loration  by  canoe. 

"The  section  at  high  tide  was  as  follows:  Beginning  on 
fast  ground  west  side,  thence  600  feet  of  mangrove  thicket, 
depth  of  water  gradually  increasing  to  10  feet;  thence  1,000 
feet,  deepening  to  40  feet;  thence  300  feet,  shoaling  to  85 
feet;  thence  100  feet,  shoaling  to  mangrove  swamp  awash; 
thence  500  feet  fiat  to  fast  ground  on  east  side.  Mean  range 
of  tides,  about  15  feet.  Bottom  bluish  mud,  into  which,  at 
the  river  margin,  we  were  unable  to  churn  down  a  sharp  and 
heavy  pole  more  than  15  feet.  Commander  Eastman  remarks, 
concerning  this  estuary,  that  the  bottom  is  generally  mud, 
a  few  exceptions  of  rock  and  gravel,  but  that  10  feet  under 
the  mud  rock  would  probably  be  found. 

"From  Rio  Chico  southward  the  greater  portion  of  the  pro- 
posed railway  line  would  pass  through  forest,  probably 
full  half  of  it  would  be  in  forest  between  Panama  and 
Yavisa." — Report  of  the  Inierconfinental  Railway  Commis- 
sion, Vol.  II. 

"David  to  Panama. — AYe  resumed  field  work  at  David  Sat- 
urday, January  21,  1S93,  and,  by  way  of  the  public  trail,  gen- 
erally used  as  a  thoroughfare  through  San  Lorenzo,  San  Felix, 
Tole,  La  Mesa,  Santiago,  Aguadulce,  San  Carlos,  Chame, 
Capira,  and  Chorrera,  arrived  at  the  railroad  station  in  Pan- 
ama Thursday,  February  16,  a  distance  of  292  miles  from  the 
start. 

"The  trail  on  the  whole  is  fairly  direct,  but  in  detail  de- 
vious and  sometimes  tortuous,  seeking  to  traverse  detached 
ranges  of  settlement  on  the  sabanas  and  ridge-crest  passages 
between  them  through  the  forest. 

"The  Isthmus  on  the  Pacific  side, from  David  to  Panama, 
may  be  topograi^hically  summarized  as  mountains,  sloping 
Ijlain,  and  sea  flat.     The  mountain  rose  first.     I'he  plain  was 


182  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

derived  mainly  from  it  and  spread  ont  under  water.  The  sea 
flat  was  similarly  derived  from  the  plain  after  its  emergence 
and  built  up  in  the  coast  shallows  above  tide  level. 

"  This  uniform  make  is  interrupted  by  spurs  from  the  Cor- 
dillera at  Tole  and  La  Mesa  and  by  the  approach  of  the  Cor- 
dillera itself  to  the  Pacific  near  Capira.  The  plain,  too,  has 
been  defeatured  hy  erosion  and  is  masked  to  some  extent  by 
lofty  hummocks  and  hogbacks,  fragments  of  the  ancient 
mountain  mass. 

"The  geolog}^  is  variegated  clay,  red  or  ruddy  yellow  at 
the  surface,  gray  below,  underlaid  by  shale  in  massive  beds, 
weathering  black  where  exposed. 

"The  country  is  watered  by  numerous  streams,  almost 
without  exception  clear,  livelj^,  stony  bedded,  and  firm 
banked.  Timber  for  railroad  use  is  abundant.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  stone  for  masonry  if  concrete  be  included  in 
that  item.     Material  for  dry  walls  is  scarce. 

"Perhaps  those  who  shall  utilize  our  work  hereafter  would 
be  best  served  by  more  i)articular  sketch  of  our  ol)servations. 

"From  David  to  Rio  Chorcha  the  line  is  nearly  all  in  prairie^ 
well  populated  by  native  Indians.  It  passes  through  forest 
only  at  the  stream  crossings,  but  the  prairies  themselves — 
various  in  width  and  a  little  undulated  lengthwise — are  lakes 
of  grass,  bordered  bj'  irregular  shores  of  forest,  so  that  the 
view  was  bounded  by  woods  on  every  hand  as  we  went  along. 

"  Between  Chorea  and  Boca  del  Monte  the  trail  held  the 
crest  of  a  sharply  serrate  ridge  in  close  wilderness,  with  under- 
growth of  palms  and  platanitos,  issuing  at  the  latter  point  on 
ridge  praii"ies,  which  extended  thence  in  widening  and  declin- 
ing expanses  to  level  plain  at  San  Lorenzo. 

"Between  the  rivers  Fonesca  and  Tupi  the  topography  is 
irregular  and  hummocky.  There  is  prairie  for  about  2  miles 
approaching  Rio  San  Juan  and  for  about  5  or  6  miles  ap- 
proaching Rio  Viejo. 

"  From  the  vicinity  of  Remedios  to  that  of  Tole  another 
jagged  profile  through  forest  exists  on  the  line  of  the  trail, 
ending  in  sharp  ascent. 

"Between  Callejon  Summit  and  Rio  Cobre  the  country  is 
comparatively  rough  and  uninhabited. 

"La  Mesa,  as  the  name  implies,  is  seated  on  a  high  plain, 
which  declines  very  slowlj^  eastward  and  drops  off  at  the  end 
so  fast  as  to  necessitate  a  little  development  [for  railroad 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  183 

location]  near  the  \'acoi.  Thence  toward  Santiago,  crossing 
affluents  of  the  San  Pedro  in  a  wide,  scrubby'  flat,  another 
marked  characteristic  of  the  Pacific  plain  is  found.  Xeai"  all 
those  tributary  channels  the  surface  was  pitted  l)y  rainfall 
over  considerable  spaces,  10  to  15  feet  deep.  The  harder 
layers  being  cemented  b}^  some  solution  of  iron,  those  pitted 
areas  had  the  exact  likeness  of  hematite  ore  diggings. 

"From  Santiago  a  wide  swell  of  grassy  plain,  drained  right 
and  left,  carried  us  by  imperceptible  descent  to  the  Rio  Santa 
Maria.  Thence  to  Aguadulce  there  were  long  reaches  of 
low  undulation,  with  shallow,  dead  flat,  lake-like  basins  on 
either  hand  around  which  the  trail  detoured.  A  dark-green 
water  weed  covered  them,  showing  that  they  might  be  ponds 
during  the  rainj'  reason. 

'From  Aguadulce  the  trail  bore  northeastward  to  Nata, 
passing  to  the  left  of  an  outlying  clumi)  of  hills. 

"Arrived  over  easy  ground  at  Anton;  we  followed  the  trail 
to  the  beach  and  the  beach  to  San  Carlos;  had  not  tide  pre- 
vented would  have  followed  it  to  the  vicinity  of  Cliame  to 
make  speed.  It  is  the  usual  highway  when  tide  permits. 
Much  of  the  land  along  this  part  of  the  coast  bluffs  into  the 
sea — clay  bluffs  50  to  80  feet  high,  containing  beds  of  rounded 
cobbles,  and  shingle  cemented  with  clay,  and  standing  ver- 
tical or  nearl}^  so. 

"  Capira  Mountain,  south  of  the  river  so  named,  is  ap- 
proached by  waj^  of  a  series  of  low  saddles  in  spurs  from  the 
main  eordillera.  It  necessitates  an  ascent  of  550  feet  and  a 
descent  of  o31  feet  to  a  crossing  of  the  river.  It  exposes  beds 
of  clay  rock  hai'der  than  that  found  farther  west,  and  is 
cumbered  with  blocks  of  the  same  material  and  bowlders 
of  volcanic  origin.     Heavy  timber  reappears  in  this  locality. 

"It  is  plain  going  from  Capira  River  to  Chorrera. 

"  Future  expeditionary  parties  for  survey  betWeoii  T*unta 
Arenas  and  the  Atrato  country  should  be  so  timed,  manned, 
and  distributed  as  to  complete  the  work  in  the  summer  sea- 
son, say  December  to  March,  inclusive.  This  allows  the 
month  of  November  for  drying  the  ground  and  cairies  nearly 
to  the  end  of  fair  w^eather.  Even  in  January  and  February 
we  encountered  hog  wallows  barely  passable — some  not  pass- 
able— necessitating  tedious  detoui's.  A  few  days'  i-ain  would 
liave  the  effect  of  seriously  im[)cding,  if  not  actually  block- 
ing, field  work.     This  memorandum  is  of  great  importance. 


184  NOTES    ON    PANAMA, 

"The  river  Santa  Maria  flows  eastward  into  the  Gulf  of 
Parita  through  a  wide  valley,  receiving  its  principal  tribnta- 
I'ies  from  the  southern  sloj>e  of  the  cordillera.  The  Rio 
Grande,  its  neighbor  eastwardly,  appeared  to  draw  its  sup- 
plies direct  fi'om  the  interior  of  the  Isthmus,  which  in  that 
quarter  looked  much  broken,  hummocky,  and  comparatively 
low. 

"Between  Nata  and  Chame  the  oxhorn  thorn  abounded. 
It  is  chestnut-brown  in  color.  Twin  thorns  alternate,  1  inch 
apart,  on  the  stems  and  twigs  of  a  shrub  thinly  foliaged,  its 
leaves  similar  to  those  of  the  honey  locust.  The  most  perfect 
thorns  have  a  height  of  If  inches,  a  spread  of  2|  inches,  and 
taper  continuousl}'  on  curved  lines  from  an  elliptic  section  at 
their  juncture  half  an  inch  wide  and  a  quarter  deep.  They 
curiously  justify  the  name  given  them.  Near  the  points  a 
small  hole  is  found  in  each  thorn,  permitting  the  passage  of 
little  reddish  ants,  who  first  consume  the  pith  filling  of  the 
thorns  and  then  inhabit  the  hollow.  They  discriminate  unerr- 
ingly between  the  push  of  the  wind  and  that  of  hand,  paw, 
or  claw,  and  swarm  out  promptly  to  repel  the  intruder. 
Their  bite  is  instant,  multitudinous,  and  hot — somewhat  like 
nettle  sting,  but  the  pain  does  not  last  long. 

"  In  that  same  region,  on  saucered  plains  annually  ponded 
1)3"  rain,  were  numerous  abandoned  ant  hills,  as  we  supposed, 
of  a  light  granite-graj,  having  the  appearance  of  cemetery 
monuments.  They  range  from  low  cones  4  to  6  feet  in  diam- 
eter at  the  base  and  2  feet  high,  through  every  variety,  con- 
cave and  convex  in  outline,  of  low  cone  surmounted  by  peaky 
cusp,  the  larger  ones  rising  to  heights  of  8  and  10  feet  above 
ground. 

"Oui"  march  along  the  seaside  between  Anton  and  San 
Carlos  was  enlivened  by  the  great  company  of  pelicans — 
sometimes  at  rest  on  bowldery  jetties,  sometimes  on  the 
water,  all  of  them  taking  wing  when  a  shoal  of  fish  appeared. 

"The  pUiins  of  Chame  are  of  gray  and  white  clay  with 
disseminated  shingle  and  cobbles,  large  beds  of  them  scat- 
tered about.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  clawed  by  drain- 
age as  if  by  spread  fingers  of  an  enormous  hand  struck  in 
and  gradually  drawing  together.  The  general  surface  is 
about  100  feet  above  the  channels  of  the  larger  streams. 
Mist  flowM'rs  were  in  blossom  there,  and  morning  glories,  crim- 
son, white,  blue,  and  yellow,  together  with  c<mipound  tints; 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  185 

oxhorn  thorns  a  plenty.  Also  climbing  ferns,  with  very 
delicate  little  fronds,  festooned  the  trees  or  hung  withered  in 
long  tassels.  North  winds  from  the  Caribbean  Sea  blew 
gusty  during  the  forenoon.  They  were  slackened  in  the 
afternoon  by  counter-currents  from  the  Pacific,  but  prevailed 
again  in  the  evening.  The  plains  are  diversified  by  islands 
and  capes  of  low  forest .  There  are  few  settlers  between  the 
Chame  villages  and  Chorrera.  The  latter  place  is  a  summer 
resort  about  20  miles  from  Panama — the  largest  town  on  our 
line  between  David  and  that  city — its  population  a  motlej^  of 
Spanish,  Indian,  and  negro. 

"Approaching  Panama  we  found  man}'  Jamaica  negroes 
stranded  by  abandonment  of  work  on  the  canal.  Some  of 
them  were  charcoal  makers,  others  market  gardeners;  most 
of  them  ugly  featured  and  rather  surly  in  expression,  but 
civil  in  speech  and  bearing,  and  in  appearance  thrifty." — 
Report  of  the  Intercontinentdl  Railway  Commission,  1891- 
1893,  Volume  II. 

Railroads — The  Panama  Railroad. — "Mr.  William  As- 
pinwall  and  others  obtained  a  charter  from  the  State  of  New 
York  on  April  7,  1849,  and  undertook  the  construction  of  the 
Colon-Panama  Railroad.  The  undertaking  was  beset  by  nu- 
merous difficulties,  the  more  serious  of  which  were  the  exist- 
ence at  the  Atlantic  end  of  some  6  miles  of  continuous  swamp 
which  had  to  be  ballasted,  the  relatively  high  altitude  of  the 
Culebra  Pass,  over  which  the  line  was  carried,  and  the  pre- 
valence of  landslides  at  this  latter  point.  Work  was  com- 
menced toward  the  end  of  1850,  and  it  took  the  pioneers  fully 
two  years  to  comj)lete  barely  23  miles  of  road.  Two  j^ears 
later  they  had  advanced  20  miles  farther  to  the  Culebra  Pass, 
and  on  January  27,  1855,  the  line  was  completed  and  inaugu- 
rated. Altogether  its  cost  was  some  £1,600,000,  oi-  approxi- 
mately £'34:,000  per  mile. 

"The  concession  granted  to  the  companj^  and  the  contract 
entered  into  between  them  and  the  Colombian  Government 
in  1850  was,  on  August  16,  1867,  or  nearly  thirteen  years  sub- 
sequent to  the  comj)letion  of  the  line,  superseded  hy  those 
under  which  the  companj'  is  now  working.  By  the  terms  of 
the  present  agreements  the  Colombian  Government  concedes 
to  the  comj)any  exclusive  privilege  for  a  term  of  ninetj'-nine 
years  (expiring  August  16,  1966)  a  practical  monopoly  of  all 
roads  across  the  Isthmus,  the  cession  in  perpetuity  of  158,144 


186  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

acres  of  waste  lands  (to  be  increased  to  237,216  acres,  if  that 
quantity  be  disposable  within  the  limits  of  the  ancient  prov- 
inces of  Veraguas  and  Panama),  the  exemption  of  its  proper- 
ties from  taxes  of  all  and  every  description.  In  return  for 
these  concessions  the  company  bound  itself  to  pay  the  Colom- 
bian Government  a  sum  of  $1,000,000  i^urchase  money  and 
an  annual  contribution  of  $250,000,  to  transport  gratuitously 
all  national  troops,  equipage,  arms,  mails,  and  State-protected 
immigrants  to  the  number  of  2,000  per  annum.  At  the 
expiration  of  the  concession  in  1896  the  entire  plant  and 
annexes  become  State  property.  All  the  conditions  of  the 
concessions  have  been  strictly  observed. 

"The  companj^'s  plant  consists  of  26  road  and  11  switch 
engines;  5  special,  8  first-class,  16  second-class,  and  7  baggage 
cars;  580  box,  136  coal,  and  183  flat  freight  cars;  57  other  cars 
of  various  descriptions,  1  movable  steam  crane,  and  a  pile 
driver;  3  steamships,  with  an  average  burden  of  2,730  tons 
apiece;  3  steam  tugs,  and  24  lighters,  with  adequate  mole 
and  pier  accommodation  at  both  Colon  and  Panama;  offices, 
stores,  workshops,  and  a  number  of  other  edifices. 

"The  comiiany  has  contracted  to  erect  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000 
a  pier  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Grande,  the  Pacific  outlet  of 
the  canal,  a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  Panama,  with  a 
view  to  i^ermit  the  loading  and  unloading  of  cargo  directly 
from  a  vessel  to  the  cars.  Dredging  operations  are  being 
executed  at  this  point,  and  with  the  removal  of  about  106,000 
cubic  feet  of  solid  rock  the  channel  leading  up  to  the  pro- 
jected mole  will  be  deep  enough  to  admit  the  entry  of  such 
ocean-going  ships  as  at  present  call  in  at  this  port.  It  is 
expected  that  the  mole  will  be  completed  and  open  to  traffic 
during  the  latter  part  of  1898.  The  actual  size,  984  feet  by 
52^  feet,  is  wholly  inadequate  for  present  traffic,  and  when, 
as  is  asserted,  only  the  open-sea  side  will  be  available  for 
shipping,  its  value  and  importance  sink  into  insignificance." — 
Colomhia,  British  Diplomatic  and  Consular  Reports,  1896. 

By  rail  from  Panama  to  Colon. — "The  Panama  Rail- 
road has  American  rolling  stock,  5  feet  gage,  and  is  a  first- 
class  line.  All  the  engines  and  cars  were  manufactured  in 
the  United  States. 

"The  railroad  runs  in  a  general  northeasterly  direction 
from  Panama  to  the  station  of  Corozal,  3.03  miles  distant. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  187 

through  a  mangrove  swamp.  The  capacity  of  the  raih-oad 
siding  at  this  station  is  44  cars. 

"From  Corozal  all  the  waj'  to  Culebra  Station  the  railroad 
runs  up  grade. 

"The  next  station,  Rio  (Grande,  is  4:^  miles  from  Panama, 
and  has  no  railroad  siding  whatever.  The  number  of  inhab- 
itants, about  75,  are  principally  Jamaica  negroes. 

"The  next  station  of  Miraflores  is  5.5  miles  from  Panama, 
and  has  a  railroad  sidetrack,  with  capacity  of  55  cars.  Popu- 
lation, about  100,  principalh^  Jamaica  negroes  and  Chinese. 

"The  next  station,  Pedro  Miguel,  is  6^  miles  from  Panama, 
and  has  a  sidetrack  cai^acity  of  24:  cars,  also  a  good  railroad 
water  tank. 

"The  next  station,  Paraiso,  8  miles  from  Panama,  is  a 
place  of  probabh'  250  inhabitants,  principall}-  Jamaica  ne- 
groes and  Chinese. 

"The  next  station  of  importance  is  Culebra,  11. '2  miles 
from  the  city  of  Pananm.  Railroad  sidetrack  capacity-  at 
this  place,  33  cars. 

"The  railroad  company  have  a  branch  track  running  from 
near  the  railroad  station,  through  Culebra  Cut,  along  the 
canal,  about  2  miles  south. 

"Near  Culebra  Cut  about  200  frame  houses  are  located, 
with  corrugated  iron  roofs,  belonging  to  the  French  Canal 
Comf)an3\ 

"At  Culebra  and  at  Empire,  about  H  miles  north,  the 
French  Canal  Company  are  at  present  working  a  force  of 
about  900  Januiica  negroes  on  the  canal  line. 

"  Empire  is  a  station  12.75  miles  from  Panama,  having  a 
side  track  along  the  railroad  with  a  capacity  of  45  cars.  The 
French  Canal  Company  also  own  about  50  frame  houses,  with 
galvanized  roofs,  where  live  the  Jamaica  negroes  who  are 
working  upon  the  canal.     Tlie  population  is  about  4,000. 

"  Xear  the  town  of  Empire,  about  400  yards  east  of  the  rail- 
road station,  is  a  hill  about  251  feet  in  height,  which  is  well 
intrenched  and  which  was  used  by  the  revolutionists  during 
the  recent  insurrection  against  Colombia  to  hinder  the  ad- 
vance of  the  Government  troops  in  their  advance  from  Colon 
to  Panama.  A  very  strong  defense  was  made  by  the  revolu- 
tionists at  this  place. 

"Las  Cascadas,  about  144^  miles  from  Panama,  has  a  side 


188    '  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

track  of  oij  cars  and  several  large  machine  storeliouses,  belong- 
ing to  the  French  Canal  Company.  Population  about  400, 
IDrincipallj^  Jamaica  negroes  and  Chinese. 

"Bas  Obispo,  the  next  station,  is  about  10.5  miles  from 
Panama,  with  a  side-track  capacity  of  9  cars.  The  number 
of  inhabitants  is  about  200.  At  this  point  are  also  located  a 
number  of  machine  storehouses  and  frame  houses  belonging 
to  the  French  Canal  Company. 

"  Matachin  is  the  next  station,  so  called  from  the  fact  that 
during  the  time  when  the  work  was  conducted  on  the  canal 
by  the  French  canal  company  in  the  year  1887  about  2,000 
Chinese  workmen  who  lived  at  this  town  died  of  yellow  fever. 
This  station  is  about  17f  miles  from  Panama,  and  has  a  side- 
track capacitj^  of  98  cars;  also  a  railroad  water  tank.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  is  about  800,  principally  Jamaica 
negroes  and  Chinese. 

"  Gorgona  is  the  next  station,  19  miles  from  Panam.a,  .and 
has  a  sidetrack  capacity  of  21  cars.  The  population  is  about 
3,000. 

"Mamei  is  the  next  station,  21f  miles  from  Panama,  and 
has  a  sidetrack  capacity  of  93  cars. 

"The  next  station  of  importance  is  Tabernilla,  26  miles 
from  Panama,  having  a  sidetrack  capacity  of  41  cars.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  is  about  200. 

"  The  next  station  is  Frijoles,  about  29  miles  from  Panama. 
It  has  a  railroad  sidetrack  capacity  of  49  ears  and  a  railroad 
water  tank.  Near  the  station  are  also  located  a  number  of 
machine  storehouses  of  the  French  canal  company. 

"  Bohio  Soldado  is  the  next  station,  32i  miles  from  Panama, 
and  has  a  sidetrack  capacity  of  70  cars.  Population  about 
400,  negroes  and  Chinese. 

"The  next  station  is  Lion  Hill,  37  miles  from  Panama,  with 
sidetrack  capacity"  of  about  24  cars.  The  number  of  inhab- 
itants is  about  200,  all  blacks. 

"  Gatun  is  the  next  station,  40|  miles  from  Panama,  with 
side-track  cajmcity  of  70  cars.  This  toAvn  has  about  800 
inhabitants,  located  on  both  sides  of  the  Chagres  River. 
Easy  communication  bj"  means  of  small  steamers  can  be  had 
from  this  station  to  the  coast.  The  river  here  is  about  10 
feet  deep  and  150  feet  wide. 

"  Colon  is  the  next  town  and  the  terminus  of  the  Panama 
Railroad,  located  47f  miles  from  Panama.     In  the  city  of 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  189 

Colon  the  railroad  company  owns  a  large  two-story  office 
building  near  the  railroad  station.  The  side  tracks  of  the 
railroad  in  this  city  have  capacity  of  about  020  cars,  while 
the  side  tracks  of  the  railroad  company  in  the  city  of  Panama 
will  accommodate  400  cars.  There  are  good  railroad  Avater- 
tanks  at  both  Colon  and  Panama. 

"  Culebra  is  the  higliest  point  on  the  railroad  line  and  is 
about  oOO  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

"The  configuration  of  the  country  and  the  topographical 
features  are  well  shown  on  tlie  large  map  referred  to,  'Carte 
de  LTsthme.' 

"About  2  miles  south  of  Colon,  along  the  railroad,  is  a 
small  station  of  five  or  six  frame  houses,  near  the  foot  of  a 
small  hill  about  150  feet  in  height,  known  as  'Monkey  Hill.' 
Artillery  placed  here  would  command  all  approaches  to  Colon 
from  the  south.  It  would  also  command  the  city  of  Colon, 
and,  were  the  artillery  of  sufficient  j)ower,  would  command 
both  the  harbors  of  Manzanillo  and  Liraon  Bay. 

"The  north  entrance  to  the  canal  is  located  about  one-half 
mile  west  of  Monkey  Hill,  and  can  be  plainly  seen  from  the 
top  of  the  hill.  All  along  the  railroad  and  canal  line  between 
Colon  and  Panama  the  country  is  overgrown  with  a  dense 
underbrush,  rendering  communication  along  the  trails  very 
difficult.  There  is  no  wagon  road  or  cart  road  across  the 
Isthmus,  only  a  narrow  trail  2  feet  wide,  with  low-hanging 
vines  and  underbrush  over  head,  quite  impracticable  during 
the  rainy  season  for  travel.  There  is  absolutelj"  no  land  com- 
munication from  either  Colon  or  Panama  along  the  neck  of 
the  Isthmus  with  the  interior  of  Colombia.  The  onl}^  com- 
munication had  with  Bogota  or  the  interior  of  Colombia  from 
the  State  of  Panama  is  by  steamship  fi-om  Buenaventura 
Harbor  on  the  west  coast  of  Colombia  to  Panama,  while  the 
only  communication  on  the  Atlantic  side  is  by  a  steamship 
from  either  Cartagena  or  Sabanilla. 

"There  is  at  present  communication  from  Porto  Bello  Har- 
bor across  the  Isthmus  with  Panama,  by  means  of  the  old 
Spanish  mule  trail.  This  trail  was  at  one  time  in  very  good 
condition,  having  been  paved  with  cobblestone  by  the  Span- 
ish, but  it  is  now  in  very  bad  repair,  and  during  the  rainy 
season  almost  impassable  for  mules  and  horses." — Report  of 
Capf.  C.  B.  Hxuiplirey,  Tirenfij-seroiid  I)ifanfry,  lOOS. 


190  notes  on  panama. 

"Description  of  a  trip  by  the  Panama  Railroad. — 
Leaving-  Colon,  we  crossed  the  embankment  leading  to  the 
mainland,  the  Spanish  Main  of  early  writers.  On  our  right 
there  was  an  immense  mangrove  swamp,  one  mass  of  green; 
bej^ond  the  swamp  was  a  little  hill;  then  more  lowland. 
The  trojjical  jungle  became  thicker  and  thicker;  in  places  it 
was  so  thick  as  to  be  absolutely  impassable.  Here  and  there 
were  stretches  of  banana.  These  were  interspersed  with 
palms  and  other  vegetation.  Here  and  there  a  native  hut 
could  be  seen  on  the  hillsides.  It  was  not  long  before  we 
were  at  Gatun.  To  our  right  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the 
River  Chagres,  a  peaceful  stream  in  the  dry  season,  but 
often,  during  the  long  wet  season  of  the  Isthmus,  a  huge, 
destructive  volume  of  water.  The  railway"  there  follows  the 
left  bank  of  the  river  as  you  approach  the  Pacific.  O^jposite 
the  small  station  and  just  across  on  the  opposite  bank  was 
the  Indian  hamlet  of  Gatun.  In  those  days  (1880)  it  was  a 
mere  collection  of  huts  built  of  bamboos,  thatclied  with 
palms  or  oleanders.  "VVe  gradually  approached  the  bridge  of 
Barbacoas,  612  feet  long.  The  river  at  this  point  in  the  dry 
season  is  a  peaceful,  shallow  stream,  jjerhaps  200  feet  wide. 
During  one  of  the  floods  of  1878  the  valle}^  of  the  Chagres 
was  overflowed,  and  there  were  12  to  18  feet  of  water  over 
the  railway.  Beyond  the  bridge  were  trees,  unfamiliar  to  me, 
and  creepers  in  flower;  orchids  and  palms  also  claimed  atten- 
tion. The  great  luxuriance  and  densit3'  of  the  vegetation, 
including  palms,  bamboos,  and  cottonwoods,  became  notice- 
able. The  Cottonwood  especially,  a  huge  tree  with  tre- 
mendous flanges  at  its  base,  is  a  characteristically  tropic 
form  of  the  native  flora. 

"Mataehin  is  the  midsection  of  the  railwa}^  and  there  the 
trains  crossed.  Not  far  from  Mataehin  on  the  right  is  a  once 
famous  but  now  forgotten  hill.  It  is  named  '  Cerro  Gigante,' 
or  the  'Big  Hill,'  and  from  its  crest  A^asco  Nunez  de  Balboa 
first  saw  the  Pacific  in  the  earlj'  morning  of  September  13, 
1526. 

"Culebra  is  the  highest  point  of  the  railway,  238^  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  Pacific.  It  is  on  the  crest,  or  'divide,' 
as  it  would  be  termed  in  the  Rockies.  The  density  of  the 
vegetation  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact  tliat  rank  grasses 
and  undergrowth  crowded  down  to  the  very  rails.  Men  are 
constantly  emploj'ed  in  cutting  it  away.     It  has  been  stated 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


191 


that  if  the  Panama  Raih'oad  remained  unused  for  six  months 
the  whole  line  would  be  grown  over  with  tropical  jungle. 
Having;  passed  the  crest,  we  commenced  descending.  In  the 
distance  we  saw  Mount  Ancon,  a  small  volcanic  peak.  It  is 
just  back  of  tlie  citj'  of  Panama.  Then  we  came  ux^on  more 
swamps  and  more  mangroves  and  black  soil.  Here  and  there 
were  great  arms  of  the  sea,  or  'sloughs,'  as  they  are  termed 
in  California.  At  high  water  they  are  filled;  at  low  water 
they  resemble  great  muddy  ditches.  They  connect  with  the 
Rio  Grande  some  2  miles  back  of  the  city  of  Panama.  Pass- 
ing a  small  Indian  village  on  the  outskirts  of  Panama,  we 
drew  up  in  the  station  of  the  cit3^" — Descriptive  Geograpliy 
from  Original  Sources,  hij  F.  D.  and  A.  J.  Herhertson,  1902. 
"This  ver}'  important  connecting  link  between  the  Pacific 
and  the  Atlantic  oceans  has  become  a  part  of  the  assets  of 
the  Panama  Canal  Company,  but  it  is  oi^erated  under  Ameri- 
can charter  (New  York),  a  board  of  directors  being  kept  in 
New  York  City  for  that  j)urpose.  The  termini  of  the  road 
are  Colon  on  the  Atlantic  side  and  Panama  on  the  Pacific. 
The  length  of  the  line  is  47  miles,  and  there  are  34:  stations, 
to  wit: 


station. 


Ch.  Columbus. - 

Monkey  Hill 

Mindi... 

Gatun  -. 

Tiger  Hill 

Lion  Hill 

Ahorca  Lagarto 

Bunji  _. 

Buena  Vista 

Prijoles 

Tabernilla 

BarV)acoas 

San  Pablo 

Bailamonos 

Mamci. 

Juan  Grande . . . 
Gorffona 


Station. 


Bas  Matachin 

Mataebin 

Bas  Obispo 

Ham  ( )bisi)o 

Las  ( 'as(  -adas 

Empire 

Culebra 

Rio  Grande  Superior 

Cucaracba 

Paraiso 

Pedro  Miguel 

Pedro  Miguel  Tank  . 

Miraflores 

Rio  Grande 

Corozal 

Panama 


Distance 
from. 
Colon. 


Miles. 
29. 
29. 
31. 
31. 
33. 
M. 
36. 
37. 
37. 
*.). 
40. 
40. 
41. 
42. 
44. 
47 


"  Panama  was  not  intended  to  be  the  Pacific  terminus  of 
the  Panama  Railroad.  The  road  was  to  be  built  to  Naos 
Island,  some  3  miles  farther  away.  It  is  at  or  near  this 
island  that  all  the  steamers  anchor,  and  the  Pacific  Mail 
Steamship  Company  has  quite  an  establishment  on  it.  By 
the  terms  of  the  concession  the  railroad  forfeits  annuallj'^ 
$30,000   to  the   department   of   Panama   until   the   railroad 


V*.T.  CDNWAY 

Ist  UtUT.  bth  INFANTRY 


192  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

reaches  Naos,  or  until  vessels  are  enabled  to  discharge  their 
cargoes  on  the  main  shore.  Steps  are  now  being  taken  to 
bring  this  about,  the  canal  companj^  intending  to  dredge  the 
bay  at  the  Pacific  mouth  of  the  canal  (La  Boca)  so  as  to  en- 
able vessels  of  any  size  to  enter,  thus  doing  away  with  the 
expensive  system  of  lighterage  now  in  vogue  here." — Com- 
mercial Directory  of  the  American  Repuhli-cs,  1897. 


W.  T.  CONWAY 

1st  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTBY 


12312—03- 


-13 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


193 


^    a 


^-oS 


^S3i-!5^??iS  I  — fS  i3S 


^■^•^cooccocc: 


ofl  ®  5  ^• 
5  29  a"^ 


i^g-S 


=s  S  s  • 


.  j;  g  »  »'  a:  oi  30  a;  X  ao    '  ad  i-^    '  t- 

5-^  ;        ; 


5SSS  s 


l-»     CO 


CO      fe    CC      ;      02    ICBfc      ODM    02 


0205    02 
cc?o  cc 


C0fe02fe&(    02       ;fe32    ;02&(      0202    02 


~<^^;=i^  =  ; 


'C27«      102320^0300     00 


0350  02 
"c§  cS 
oo*'   oo' 


02       QQ 

Oi    t'Q 

00    oooo' 


ft  tJS  ^ 


'  s  a  fl 

5  S  «3 


cc  c;  cc  *j  m  :c  ^  li;  cc  •--  o  »^  ^  ''^ 

r-i:^-:^:^:.  ^^  xc:03Cjr-^H  :£>  O  S5 

■2. 3  fe:  :S  2i  o  ^"  :c  -*'  't  cc  .-;  oi  t- 

■*-*CCCC  cc  CCCl55T>'JiK!  N  ^  Jh 


W    CO 

>-<  o'od 


a   o  03 

a   o    y  3  y 


a'eS 


Ca4>OC-*C<5    o 
^  t— *  f-H  t"-  (3^  1-^     t- 


5  ; 


eo  1-5  00  OS; 


*3  ^^^59^^    *^     C5CCO^-*iJC    O     cc     ^     OCC     (M  *f     ac  CO 

_2;  sucoicot-.  uc  i-i-^ooucus  s  s  e  i=;;i  §5  ^  SS 

:~  '—•^COO'N   ic   «cx'^-^^^^ccn;   50    oc'   o   ^cc   ^'  m   t-^oi 

12  r^^-Hr-ir-1'M3^'IJ«Ci5.!CCCCCCM  CCCCcS 


es  g  aj    . 


d.£P^2^ 
■w-ag 


-^  ^  ^  O^^  T— I  "M^    CC 


CO      fe  02 

S^'inot-iet--*  CO 

?>  g'^ooort?^  cc 

S  .-iNaisJcccccc  cc 
^1  9< 


c5rt(Mce-*  in 

;j  g  SJ  S5  a:  CO  o  »■  ® 


SS2SS5  ig 


;zi? 


fea2 


COfe    cc   02    02    023202      02  02 

cc i--   m   cc   Q   -*■  -J i-c cm o n o 
oo  »-H   -M   ?c   cc ■* -t- »n »n o o  1— t 


02        aj    02      02      CC    CO      02 
"^ii—  in  incinoi^   iQ     r-^ 

-*'■*   -*'   •*•*-*■*■-#   ■*     in 


5  §S332SS  3 

I-    l-^  I-  X  X'  OC  X  00    x' 


O    OiOil—  i-na^m    ■* 

■*  ^inmoocvi?!  OS 
s-i  ci  ci  •>!  cc  cc  cc  cc   cc 


194 


NOTES    OISI    PANAMA. 


1 

No.  8. 
freight, 
daily  ex- 
cept Sun- 
day. 

8S3 

§8 

00 

d 

^ 

p- 

J3 

S^SJSS     . 

-O 

OD        c  .2?  f>=.o  eS 

■Is 

so  as  «o  ;c  ^  g  U 

CO 

<& 

0 

IH 

1   -'is 

^^ 

^^ 

1? 

fl 

^ 

^ 

■Is 

gSSS?'5g^" 

cdc6(N(>iN    .  C 

■* 

A 

45 

s.   . 

6 

o 

^"^ 

'^^ 

12; 

^ 

V 

4J 

^ 

E 

igo-;  . 

.      CK      CC'      fa 
r-    •  oi  x  X  X  X  30    ^  ? 

d 

^^                            ^^ 

^ 

§    d 

.     «DS30jH25o 

5  0  t3 

yi    rH    fl 

^      :c  «c  ic  -*  CO 

P       PL. 

B=     ' 

^     ■ 

03 

o 

•Sill 

g 

32            ; 

0 

r^  pt:  ■.:  ~  ^ 

c3    . 

■~  'C  b"  ^-  - 

T.^ 

cc 

'3  f^  a  ..=;  '^ 

t^H 

sc© 

(Ih     . 

IS 

Capac- 
ity of 
sid- 
ings. 

i 

tHUSO^JO 

.    "^  S  S 

.2  i!  9  o 

g    g5?S5:§S 

5  ^cP^ 

1    5^^55'^ 

02      a3      fe 

ggSSSS^iSgl 

" 

g^ssssss^-fc 

o 

[2; 

(3 

o 

^ 

03 

.^ 

cri 

Ti 

ta 

d 

.^>fc        •         •         -(^^ 

(2; 

-d 

e 

^'^iS 

lOO^rHN 

3 

o 

^P 

x'  05  oi  33  oi  w  ^» 

IC 

fi 

c    . 

o 

fl 

S   ^g^P,^ 

>5-< 

^^ 

^ 

^1      ""-ag 

^ 

§!  -'^i 

ssssa    . 

1^ 

JQ  ^   ^  ^  ^     ^     ^ 

d 

^2-Sp.^ 

S 

Jz; 

.8 


in-*-* 
' ^ 


■S  g'^'ri'o  g  ;i 

£    .  .8 


T4 
^1^ 


.       CO  CO  -* 

.^  •<  <  J 


e  . "  "^  "^  .  2 


O  O  t— I        ^ 

§  g  w  ^  »i  g .» 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  195 

Intercontinental  Railway. — "Any  location  that  may  be 
adopted  for  a  railway  aloni^  the  Pacific  slope  of  the  Lstlimns 
of  Panama  would,  from  the  point  of  leaving  Costa  Kiea  to  its 
attainment  of  the  Atrato  l>asin,  cross  nearly  at  right  angles 
most  of  the  streams  emptying  into  the  great  ocean.  In  their 
order,  from  west  to  east,  the  principal  ones  would  be  the 
Golfito,  which  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Dulce;  the  Chiriqui 
Vie  jo,  the  David,  and  the  Tabasara,  which  discharge  into 
the  Gulf  of  Alanje;  the  San  Pablo  aiyi  San  Pedro,  into  the 
Gulf  of  Monti  jo;  the  Santa  Maria,  into  the  Gulf  of  Parita; 
the  Chepo,  which  is  navigable  for  small  vessels  and  empties 
into  the  Gulf  of  Panama;  the  Turia,  the  principal  stream  of 
the  Isthmus,  which  discharges  into  the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel." — 
Report  of  the  Intercontinental  Railway  Commission,  J^ol- 
ume  /,  i^art  1,  1891-1S98. 

A  Projected  Railroad. — "A  contract  has  been  signed 
hy  the  minister  of  the  ti-easui'v  of  Colombia  and  Don  Pablo 
Pinzon  for  the  construction  of  a  railroad  to  connect  the  dis- 
trict of  Bocas  del  Toro  and  Chiriqui,  in  the  department  of 
Panama.  The  work  is  to  be  comijleted  within  ten  years  and 
the  concessionaire  is  to  receive  from  the  Government  a  sub- 
sidy of  5,000  pesos  per  kilometer." — Monthln  Bulhtin  of  tlie 
Bureau  of  American  Republics,  July,  l&W. 

Cables. — Communication  with  the  outside  world  is  main- 
tained at  Colon  by  cable  via  Jamaica,  and  at  Panama  via 
Nicaragua  and  Mexico  northward  and  J^uenaventura  south- 
ward. 

Telegraph. — Two  telegraph  wires  along  the  railroad  from 
Colon  to  Pananxa  belong  to  the  railroad  and  canal  companj^ 
separately.  The  telegraph  offices  along  the  route  are:  Gatun 
(2),  Bohio  (2),  Frijoles  (1),  Taverniila  (2),  Mamei  (1),  Mata- 
chin  (2),  Empire  (2),  Paraiso  (2),  Ri:  Grande  (1),  Corozal  (2). 


III.  POPULATION. 

(a)  CENSUS,  DISTRIBUTION,  RACE,  LANGUAGE,  ETC. 

"The  inhabitants  can  hardly  be  chissed  as  belonging 
exclusively  to  either  of  the  three  primal  races.  They  are  a 
curious  mixture  of  red,  white,  and  black — crude  evidence  of 
that  lax  morality  which  j^revailed  here  in  early  Spanish  colo- 
nial times.  Just  how  these  unfortunate  people  manage  to 
live  or  why  they  never  had  the  energy  or  ambition  to  better 
their  condition  nobody  seems  to  know.  Yet  they  are  appar- 
ently happy  in  their  life  of  poverty  and  wretchedness.  They 
have  few  wants  of  body  or  mind.  The  indigenous  plantain 
and  banana  afford  a  cheap  and  convenient  substitute  for 
bread,  and  fish  from  the  streams  and  lagoons  and  a  few  yellow- 
legged  chickens  afford  all  the  meat  they  want.  Occasionally 
one  sees  an  inferior  specimen  of  the  domestic  pig  or  a  forlorn- 
looking,  half -famished  donkey  and  sometimes  a  few  domesti- 
cated ducks;  but  there  are  no  cows  or  horses  or  other  live- 
stock, and  one  rarely  sees  a  vegetable  garden.  Toward  the 
Pacific  coast  the  country  is  more  thickly  jjopulated,  the 
houses  are  better,  the  people  look  cleaner,  healthier,  stronger, 
and  more  self-resj)ecting. 

"The  present  population  is  perhaps  400,000,  including  an 
independent  tribe  of  Indians,  who  are  said  to  number  about 
8,000." — Tlie  Coloiiihian  and  Venezuelan  Repuhlics.  Scruggs^ 
1900. 

"At  present  no  group  of  Carib  speech  is  known  to  inhabit 
any  jDart  of  the  Isthmus,  although  there  are  traditions  that 
some  of  the  warlike  tribes  in  the  central  disti-icts  south  of  San 
Bias  came  originally  from  the  Goajira  Peninsula,  which  is 
still  held  by  a  powerful  Carib  nation.  In  recent  j^ears  they 
have  nearly  all  been  absorbed  in  the  general  population — a 
mixture  of  Indians,  whites,  and  mulattoes,  in  which  the  col- 
ored element  is  most  pronounced.  It  is  due  to  the  large  num- 
ber of  Jamaicans  who  were  attracted  to  Panama  by  the  high 
196 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  197 

rate  of  wages  on  the  raihvaj^  and  canal  works  and  manj-  of 
whom  afterwards  settled  in  the  countrj'.  The  movement, 
unless  arrested,  must  eventuallj'  assimilate  the  Isthmus  to 
those  parts  of  the  Antilles  where  the  African  element  pre- 
dominates. In  the  eastern  districts  most  of  the  aborigines, 
such  as  the  Dariens  or  Papaparos,  are  extinct.  But  others, 
such  as  the  Chocos,  Q neves,  and  Tules,  still  survive  and  con- 
stitute the  Cuna  famil}',  whose  affinities  appear  to  be  with 
the  Chocos  and  Baudos  of  the  Atrato  and  San  Juan  valleys 
in  Colombia  proper.     (See  table,  Ch.  III.) 

"On  the  other  hand,  the  Veraguas  and  Chiriquis,  formerly 
dominant  in  the  west,  where  they  still  form  the  bulif  of  the 
poi)ulation,  have  abandoned  the  tribal  system,  with  the  asso- 
ciated usages  and  traditions,  and  are  scarcelj^  noAv  to  be 
distinguished  from  other  Ilispano- Americans  of  Spanish 
speech  and  culture.  Xevertheless,  they  had,  in  pre-Colum- 
bian times,  a  culture  of  their  own  and  thus  formed  a  link  in 
the  chain  of  more  or  less  civilized  nations  which  extended, 
with  interruptions,  from  the  Pueblos  of  Arizona,  through 
Mexico  and  Central  America,  into  Colombia,  Peru,  and 
Bolivia. 

"Like  some  of  the  neighboring  Costa  Ricans,  the  Veraguas 
of  the  auriferous  district  named  from  them  were  specially 
noted  for  their  taste  and  technical  skill  in  the  goldsmith's  art. 
Throughout  the  western  section  of  the  Isthmus,  between  the 
Chiriqui  Inlet  and  Panama  Bay,  occur  numerous  prehistoric 
huacas  (graves  or  barrows),  which  have  yielded  an  abundance 
of  gold  and  other  artistic  objects  that  had  been  deposited  with 
the  dead.  Similar  graves,  some  of  large  size,  extend  as  far 
as  the  Gulf  of  Nicoj^a,  but  the  objects  found  in  them — obsid- 
ian, greenstone,  and  tinely  wrouglit  jade  tools  and  orna- 
ments, knives,  axes,  armlets,  rings,  figures  of  men  and  gods, 
etc. — have  been  ascribed  to  Aztec  influences,  or  even  to  the 
Aztecs  themselves,  who  are  now  known  to  have  ranged  from 
Nicaragua  into  the  adjacent  parts  of  the  present  Costa  Rica 
territory.  Some  of  the  barrows  visited  by  Colonel  Church  in 
the  district  east  of  Guapiles  are  100  feet  long,  75  wide,  and 
15  high.  'They  appeared  to  be  filled  with  broken  statues 
of  men,  women,  animals,  and  other  objects  sculptured  from 
volcanic  rock.  We  cut  the  weeds  and  exposed  an  immenes 
statute,  which  must  have  been  10  feet  high,'  besides  'a  fine 
life-size  specimen  of  the  head  of  an  alligator  and  one  of  a 


198  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

puma.'  But  no  mention  is  anywhere  made  of  architectural 
remains  or  of  any  monuments  at  all  comparable  to  those  of 
the  Maj^as  or  Incas.  In  this  respect  the  culture  of  these 
Costa  Riean  and  Panama  people  shows  more  affinity  with 
that  of  the  Colombian  Chibchas,  who  were  also  famous  jew- 
elers and  goldsmiths." — StanforcVs  Compendium  of  Geog- 
rapliy^  Central  and  Soutlt  America. 

"All  along  the  rail wa}^  from  Colon  to  Panama  are  little 
towns  and  settlements,  but  few  good  houses.  The  habita- 
tions are  thatched-roof  sheds  with  dirt  floors,  and  their 
inmates  a  curious  mixture  of  red,  white,  and  black.  The 
indigenous  plantain  and  banana  afford  a  cheap  and  conven- 
ient substitute  for  bread,  and  fish  from  the  streams  and 
lagoons  and  a  few  yellow-legged  chickens  afford  all  the  meat 
they  want.  There  are  no  cows  or  horses  or  other  live  stock, 
and  one  rarely  sees  a  vegetable  garden. 

"It  is  necessary  to  know  their  language  and  disposition  to 
get  along  with  the  people.  Civil  and  kind  treatment  almost 
assures  civil  and  even  courteous  treatment  in  return.  Touch- 
ing their  sensibilities  or  wounding  their  vanity  should  be 
avoided.  Serious  disturbances  sometimes  result  from  a  mere 
thoughtless  jest." — Tlie  Colombian  and  I'enezuelan  Repub- 
lics.— Scruggs.     1900. 

Description  oe  people  met  with  on  a  journey  between 
David  AND  Panama. — "Our  departure  from  David  having 
occurred  on  a  Saturday,  we  had  our  Sunday  rest  at  Chorcha, 
a  small  Indian  hamlet  12  miles  out,  pitchiug  camp  near  the 
dwelling  of  Doctor  Pecuado,  an  immigrant  Cuban  physician, 
who  comes  hither  annually  from  Panama  to  pass  the  summer. 
Mr.  Obaldia  accompanied  us  and  introduced  us  to  that  hos- 
pitable colony.  The  Pecuados  were  the  oidy  white  residents. 
They  straightway  adopted  us  into  rhe  tribe,  and  in  effect 
we  slept  at  camp  and  ate  with  the  family.  The  beautiful 
mother  would  take  no  excuses.  The  doctor's  farm  covered 
450  acres  of  fertile  prairie  and  bottom,  half  of  it  timbered. 
Land-hungry  readers  may  be  interested  to  learn  that  this  fine 
estate  cost  him  just  20  cents,  the  legal  fee  for  making  out 
paijers.  It  is  only  2  miles  direct  from  salt  water,  but  the 
crooked  river  channel  across  the  sea  flat  necessitates  a  canoe 
voyage  of  three  or  four  hours.  lie  cultivates  the  plantain 
and  the  cacao  chiefl3\  Said  that  monkeys  lessened  his  crops, 
as  they  destroyed  more  than  they  ate.  Had  a  tigei"  hide  b^ 
feet  long  from  muzzle  to  rump;  tail  nearly  2^  feet. 


NOTES    or     PANAMA.  199 

"We  made  tlie  acqaaintance  there  of  another  transient 
guest,  Senor  Jose  Santa  Maria  Jovenes,  one  of  two  young 
bachelor  brothers,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  courtesj'. 
They  have  a  cattle  range,  wire  fenced,  on  the  eastern  side 
of  Rio  Fonseca,  probably  including  2  square  miles.  Their 
grant  is  a  tract  12  by  GO  miles  in  area,  its  boundaries  not  yet 
marked  on  the  ground  nor  definitely  described  in  writing  or 
graphical  plan.  It  is  47  square  miles  larger  than  the  average 
size  of  counties  in  Pennsjdvania. 

"Near  Remedies  we  met  a  party  of  wild  Indians  from  the 
interior — thick-set,  strong-legged  fellows.  Their  faces  were 
painted,  as  if  with  a  fine  camel's-hair  brush,  in  thin,  black 
lines,  a  diamond  figure  inclosing  th-e  mouth,  three  or  four 
horizontal  stripes  across  the  nose,  forehead,  and  cheeks  in 
tit-tat-to  diagram,  no  two  alike,  of  which  holiday  set-off  they 
betrayed  a  little  conscious  vanit3\  They  answered  our  salu- 
tations with  pleasant  grins  and  friendly'  gestures. 

"Agricultural  Indians,  speaking  Spanish,  peopled  the  coun- 
trj"  along  the  line  of  our  survey  through  Chiriqui  and  Yera- 
guas.  In  the  provincial  capitals,  David  and  Santiago,  whites 
may  have  outnumbered  them.  The  field  population  wa« 
almost  exclusively  Indian.  They  were  happily  circumstanced. 
Numerous  villages  strung  on  the  trail — singles  and  clusters, 
variously  spaced  like  beads  of  a  rosary — would  remind  Pacific 
voyagers  of  the  coral  archipelagos,  each  village  an  atoll  with 
oval  or  circular  prairie  for  lagoon,  a  girdling  reef  of  cabins, 
then  the  all-surrounding  woodland  sea.  Like  their  island 
cousins,  before  the  paleface  blasted  them,  they  are  for  the 
most  part  in  their  first  childhood  as  communities,  sucklings 
of  nature,  to  whom  she  bears  a  milkier  bosom  than  to  the 
Eskimo  and  Fuegan. 

"Their  cabins  stand  apart,  within  talking  distance  usually ; 
clumi)s  of  mangoes  and  cocoanut  in  front,  narrow  plantations 
behind,  similar  to  those  of  the  French  Canadians  along  the 
St.  Lawrence,  cleared  from  wilderness  and  sloping  to  brook 
or  river — water  convenient  being  a  prime  necessity.  Peren- 
nial vegetation  and  a  warm,  equable  climate,  tempered  by 
ocean  winds,  countervail  the  disadvantage  of  a  soil  but  moder- 
atelj'  rich.  Cattle,  horses,  pigs,  goats,  and  fowls  feed  at  large. 
Every  family  is  well  housed,  well  fed,  without  toilsome  labor, 
and  the  grown  members  well  and  cleanly  clad;  the  wives 
tidy,  robust,  cheerful  helpmates;  the  naked  young  broods 


200  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

frisking  like  colts  on  the  gTeensward.  All  villages  alike  are 
scenes  of  peace,  welfare,  and  contentment. 

"Their  social  economy,  their  genei'ous  hospitality,  their 
good-fellowship,  and  neighborly  virtues  have  come  down  to 
them,  it  is  believed,  not  only  from  before  the  'Conqnest,' 
but  from  the  period  antedating  a  previous  invasion,  j^robably 
of  Phoenician  adventurers  or  immigrant  warriors  from  Atlan- 
tis. These  traits,  as  well  as  their  features,  color,  and  the 
antiquities  of  their  country,  bespeak  them  a  race  identical 
with  our  North  American  Indians,  modified  in  some  respects 
by  an  infusion  of  Semitic  blood." — Report  of  Intercontinental 
Railway  Commission,  1891-189S,  Vol.  II. 

"The  Talamancans. — Within  less  than  100 miles  of  where 
is  contemplated  the  greatest  interoceanic  ditch  tlie  world  has 
seen  there  dwells  an  Indian  nation  that  is  to  all  intents 
and  purposes  identically  the  same  to  day  as  it  was  when 
Columbus  first  discovered  the  Western  Hemisphere.  These 
are  the  Talamancans,  who  inhabit  a  few  square  miles  in  the 
mountains  almost  midway  between  the  two  oceans,  and  but 
a  comparative!}^  short  distance  from  the  Panama  Railroad, 
though  it  is  much  to  be  doubted  if  they  have  ever  seen  it  or 
are  aware  of  its  existence. 

"For  upward  of  four  centuries  the  mediaeval  civilization  of 
Spain  has  surrounded  them  on  all  sides,  but  their  language 
is  still  their  own  and  seems  to  have  lost  little  of  its  orignal  char- 
acter through  contact  with  the  execrable  mixture  of  English, 
Spanish,  and  French  spoken  by  the  lower  classes  throughout 
the  West  Indies  and  along  the  Spanisli  Main.  As  they  live 
in  virtually  an  unknown  region,  at  least  three  days'  journey 
from  the  nearest  settlement,  their  solitude  is  seldom  broken. 
The  visitor  is  received  with  the  greatest  hospitality  and  is 
welcome  as  long  as  he  desires  to  remain.  Their  visits  to 
the  outer  world  are  infrequent,  rarely  extending  bej^ond  the 
nearest  port,  and  are  undertaken  only  in  quest  of  luxuries. 

"Extra  fowls  and  porkers  are  bartered  on  these  occasions 
for  tobacco,  geegaws,  and  ammunition.  The  spear  and  blow- 
gun  are  used  more  than  firearms  for  various  reasons.  The 
former  are  not  only  infinitely  cheaper,  but  usually  more 
effective  in  the  hands  of  the  Indian  than  the  clieap  muzzle- 
loading  fowling  piece  of  Frencli  or  German  origin  with  its 
paper-like  barrel — the  onl}^  arm  he  can  afford  to  purchase 
besides  the  machete. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  201 

"Their  language  and  customs  in  some  respects  resemble 
those  of  the  score  or  more  of  widel}'  differing  peoples  that  are 
scattered  over  the  tenitorj'  lying  between  the  Mexican  bor- 
der and  the  Isthmus. 

"Their  ancestors  doubtless  served  Aztec  masters  for  cen- 
tui'ies  before  Cortez  appeared  on  the  scene  to  impose  a  worse 
slavery  upon  them,  for  thej"  are  not  of  the  superior  race  of 
which  so  man\  reminders  in  the  shape  of  gold  and  silver 
ornaments,  stone  idols,  and  curious  specimens  of  pottery 
have  been  unearthed  in  quantities  in  several  of  the  Central 
American  States,  and  being  the  opposite  of  warlike  they 
could  easily  be  held  in  bondage. 

"They  are  not  idolaters  in  any  sense  of  the  word,  nor  do 
they  profess  religion  or  hold  public  worship  of  any  nature, 
though  their  belief  tends  more  to  fear  of  an  evil  spirit  than  faith 
in  a  good  one;  in  fact,  the  Talaniancans  present  an  instance 
of  a  nation  without  a  doctor,  a  lawyer,  or  priest,  the  'sokee,' 
corresjionding  to  the  medicine  man  of  the  North  American 
tribes,  usually  combining  the  functions  of  all  three.  Polyg- 
amy is  the  most  important  feature  of  their  domestic  relations, 
few,  if  any,  of  the  members  of  the  different  tribes  being  con- 
tent with  less  than  three  to  half  a  dozen  wives,  while  his 
Talainancan  majesty  might  well  exclaim  with  Launcelot, 
'Alas!  Fifteen  wives  is  nothinge.'  His  seraglio  is  usuall}^ 
better  provided  in  j)oint  of  numbers. 

"The  government  of  this  Indian  nation  is  entirely  heredi- 
tary, and  it  is  astonishing  to  learn  of  the  many  points  of  the 
doctrine  of  primogeniture  as  practiced  by  the  reigning  fami- 
lies of  Europe  with  which  they  are  familiar.  Their  laws  are 
naturally  few  in  number,  both  the  legislative  and  judicial 
power,  as  is  usually  the  case  where  no  fixed  principles  of 
either  have  been  acquired,  being  vested  exclusivelj'  in  the 
king.  In  common  with  others  in  his  position  the  world  over, 
he  is  a  despot,  and  rules  according  to  royal  whim  where  this 
does  not  conflict  with  long-established  custom.  The  marital 
relation  is  held  sacred.  The  engagement  of  a  girl  begins 
within  a  few  hours  of  her  birth,  the  bridegroom  to  be  mak- 
ing a  contract  with  the  parents  at  that  time.  It  is  usually  con- 
summated when  she  reaches  the  age  of  10  or  12,  a  custom  that 
is  responsible  for  great  disparity  in  the  age  and  longevity  of 
the  sexes. 

"The  needs  of  the  Talamancaix  are  primitive  to  a  degree 


202  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

characteristic  of  the  early  ages  of  man,  and  as  nature  pro- 
vides for  him  with  a  bounteous  hand  his  is  an  existence  of 
dream}^  contentment  undisturbed  by  thought  of  the  morrow 
or  fear  of  the  hereafter.  The  rivers  teem  Avith  many  varie- 
ties of  edible  fish,  and  game  abounds  to  a  degree  unknown 
outside  the  Tropics,  while  the  soil  is  so  fertile  as  to  give  rise 
to  the  saying  that  it  will  raise  pickaninnies.  A  little  corn 
and  cassava  are  planted,  and  the  soil  and  climate  do  the  rest. 
When  the}'  mature,  which  in  the  case  of  corn  is  four  times  a 
year,  they  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  that  i)racticed 
bj'  their  forefathers  from  t  ime  out  of  mind.  Clothing,  whether 
for  man  or  woman,  is  of  the  scantiest  description  imaginable, 
except  on  gala  occasions  or  a  visit  to  the  settlement,  when 
the  trousers  and  shirt  of  civilization  are  donned  by  the  former, 
the  children  running  about  absohitel}'  naked  until  several 
3'ears  old. 

"  The  Talamancan\s  hut,  which  is  a  masterpiece  in  the  art 
of  thatching,  is  a  huge  affair,  and  shelters  his  entire  family 
and  all  his  worldly  possessions,  including  the  domestic  ani- 
mals, that  continually  root  around  the  interior  during  the 
day  and  retire  with  him  at  night.  As  he  is  a  past  master  in 
the  art  of  domesticating  the  wild  deer,  the  peccary,  the  tapir, 
and  even  the  tiger  cat,  numbers  of  these  animals  are  present 
in  every  village,  taking  the  place  of  the  motley  pack  mon- 
grels that  usually  greet  the  visitor  at  such  humble  settle- 
ments. His  bed  consists  of  the  trunk  of  a  certain  species  of 
palm,  cut  into  strips  and  supported  3  or  4  feet  from  the 
ground  on  a  frame,  and  a  few  earthen  j)ots,  with  now  and 
again  an  iron  one,  complete  the  furnishing  of  his  house. 

"While  adept  with  the  spear  and  deadly  blowgun,  in  which 
various  of  the  South  American  tribes  employ  poisoned  darts, 
he  is  of  the  most  peaceable  nature,  and  his  traditions  contain 
no  stirring  tales  of  conquest,  nor  does  his  conversation  boast 
of  personal  valor,  for  he  knows  not  war.  In  short,  the  Tala- 
mancan  is  forever  at  peace  with  all  the  world,  and  only  de- 
sires to  pursue  the  even  tenor  of  iiis  yvay  unmolested  to  the 
end  of  the  chapter."" — Scientific  American,  NoreiuherSl,  1903. 


IV.  RESOURCES. 

(a)  MINERAL  RESOURCES. 

"Gold  is  obtained  from  the  rivers  Marca  and  Balsas,  in 
South  Darien.  There  still  lives  the  tradition  of  the  famous 
mines  of  Cana  or  Espiritu  Santo,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Tuira.  At  one  time  they  were  called  '  Potosi,'  on  account  of 
the  abundance  and  fineness  of  the  ore  j)roduced.  There  are 
likewise  gold  mines  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  rivers  Code, 
Belen,  and  Indias,  and  their  tributaries.  Of  these  the  most 
noteworthy  is  that  of  San  Antonio,  on  the  Code,  which  is 
reported  as  yielding  140,000  a  year.  Other  mines  are  found 
at  Las  Tablas,  Las  Minas,  El  Mineral  de  Veraguas,  Sona, 
Lovaina,  Gualaca,  and  San  Lorenzo. 

"Salt  is  found  in  abundance  throughout  the  department, 
and  at  many  points  its  production  is  more  profitable  than  that 
of  gold 

"Copper  is  found  near  San  Felix  and  near  the  road  from 
David  to  Bocas  del  Toro.  It  exists  also,  there  is  reason  for 
thinking,  in  the  old  province  of  Azuero. 

"Iron  is  to  be  found  in  and  about  the  Cerro  de  San  Cristo- 
bal and  in  the  ancient  province  of  Azuero,  according  to  indi- 
cations. 

"Coal  is  found  near  Las  Bocas  de  Toro  and  in  Golfo  Dulce. 

"Mineral  waters  are  found  in  the  districts  of  Santiago  and 
Calobre,  near  the  headwaters  of  the  Chonguinola,  near  the 
volcano  at  the  foot  of  the  Castillo  Mount,  near  the  Cliiriqui 
River,  in  the  Mendez  Ranch,  near  the  Yeguas  Pass,  in  Pan 
de  Azucar,  and  on  tlie  banks  of  the  Gallequi  River,  near  San 
Felix. 

"Pearls  are  found  not  only  in  the  Archipelago  de  las 
Perlas,  but  in  many  other  spots  on  the  sea  bottom,  which 
would  seem  to  be  almost  covered  with  these  precious  stones. 
As  many  as  one  million  shells  a  year  are  said  to  be  secured 
by  divers,  and  though  all  do  not  contain  i^earls  they  are 
available  as  mother-of-pearl. 

203 


204  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

"Chalk  and  lime  also  abound  in  various  parts  of  the 
department." — Colombia.  Bureau  of  American  JRepublics, 
1892. 

"In  the  early  days  of  the  Panama  Railroad,  and  later, 
during  the  canal  construction  period,  numerous  effoi-ts  were 
made  to  explore  the  coal  regions  of  the  Atlantic  in  near 
proximit}'  to  the  jjorts  of  Colon  and  Panama.  These  re- 
searches led  up  to  the  discovery  of  bituminous  shales  and 
lignite  near  the  port  of  Boca  del  Toro  on  tlie  Caribbean  Sea. 
Some  hopes  had  been  entertained  that  these  deposits  would 
give  valuable  coal,  but  an  examination  and  analysis  have 
convinced  me  that  the  veins  are  too  small  and  the  percent- 
age of  carbon  too  low  to  justify  anj^  expectation  from  this 
source.  The  largest  vein  I  saw  was  about  3  feet  thick,  and 
the  analysis  gave — 

Carbon 40.131 

Water 12.9(52 

Ash 30.216 

"It  will  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  the  coal  has  no  commer- 
cial value,  especially  as  some  of  the  carbon  was  infusible  aud 
noncombustible  graphite.  Considerable  work  was  done  at 
these  mines  some  years  ago,  but  little  signs  of  the  excava- 
tions now  remain,  the  opening  being  filled  with  debris  washed 
in  b}^  the  waters  of  the  rainy  season.  These  deposits  do  not 
cover  an  area  of  over  10  miles,  and  arc  not  worthy  of  more 
than  passing  mention. 

"  On  the  Pacific,  coal  measures  expose  themselves  near 
Punta  Burica,  in  Colombia,  and  the  peninsular  projection  that 
forms  the  northern  inclosure  of  Golfo  Dulce,  in  Costa  Rica. 
The  numerous  small  streams  that  flow  into  the  gulfito  from 
the  Cordillera,  on  the  boundary  of  Colombia  and  Costa  Rica, 
bring  down  fragments  of  lignite  and  coal,  showing  that  they 
pass  through  large  carboniferous  deposits. 

"  Some  work  was  attempted  in  these  regions  (judging  from 
oi3enings  that  are  now  nearly  filled  in  with  debris)  many 
years  ago,  but  evidentl}^  with  meager  results,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  the  exploring  party  did  not  enter  sufficiently  far 
into  the  interior  to  reach  a  healthy  carboniferous  formation. 
I  consider  it  feasible  to  mine  good  coal  in  these  regions  at  a 
distance  of  from  15  to  20  miles  from  the  coast,  as  the  crop- 
pings  I  examined  at  several  points  show  veins  from  3  to  B 
feet  thick  of  bituminous  coal  embedded  in  lignite  and  shale. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  205 

"  The  carboniferous  measures  of  this  loealit}'  cover  an  area 
of  about  100  square  miles,  and  are  about  equal  to  the  coal 
beds  of  Chesterfield  Count}^  \'a. 

"This  disposes,  as  far  as  I  have  investigated,  of  the  coal 
beds  of  Panama,  with  the  exception  of  those  of  Rio  Chu- 
cunaque,  about  12  miles  northwest  of  Point  Mosquito." — 
MoniliUj  Bulletin  of  Hie  Bureau  of  American  Republics, 
1893-04.     ISpecial  BaUeiin,  November,  1893. 

(b)  TIMBER  AND  FUEL. 

"The  department  yields  woods  of  excellent  quality  and 
colossal  growth,  principally  in  South  Darien,  though  they 
abound  also  in  the  mountains  along  the  coasts  and  in  the 
islands  of  both  seas.  The  following  may  be  named:  Cacique, 
corotu,  and  espave,  fit  for  shipbuilding,  and  not  infested  by 
any  sort  of  insect  whatever;  caimito,  hueso,  cerezo,  macano, 
madroiio,  naranjillo,  bola,  and  laurel,  excellent  for  polished 
work  and  building,  as  are  also  the  mora  and  guayacan,  which 
are,  furthermore,  incorruptible;  nispero  and  espinoso,  which 
make  the  best  boarding  known;  mahogany  (black,  red,  or 
veined),  rosewood,  rosilla,  quira,  cocobobo,  and  roble  ama- 
rillo  (j-ellow  oak),  which  do  not  rot;  roble  comun  (common 
oak),  adapted  for  ship  timbers;  el  manzanillo  (manchineel), 
a  building  and  cabinet  wood;  jicarrillo,  and  espino  amarillo. 

"Among  furniture  woods  may  be  named  the  cedars  known 
as  ceboUa,  espina,  real,  and  papaya,  all  of  excellent  quality 
and  exempt  from  the  attacks  of  the  '  comejen '  (timber  worm) ; 
amarillo  de  Gua^'aquil,  which  is  incorruptible;  algarrobo  del 
Peru,  ijagua  de  montaiia,  alcornoque,  chuchipate,  and  cha- 
chojo,  all  very  useful  for  building;  maderon,  verj'  durable 
and  available  for  inlaid  work;  alfahillo,  the  same;  tanjiro, 
similar  to  mahoganj';  jigna  blanca,  jigna  negra,  saponario, 
the  leaves  and  bark  of  which  are  used  as  soap;  majagua, 
used  by  the  Indians  for  making  ropes;  palo  de  lana  (wool- 
tree),  similar  to  the  ceiba  or  silk-cotton  tree,  and  which  grows 
to  a  height  of  more  than  100  feet,  and  is  used  for  canoes; 
hobo,  a  durable  and  colossal  tree;  bongo  and  balso,  trees  of 
considerable  thickness,  but  very  light,  resembling  cork,  and 
used  for  making  rafts;  yaya,  verj^  durable;  mangle,  cavalero, 
pena,  salado,  and  Colorado,  the  last  verj'^  durable  and  suitable 
for  shipbuilding;  culuba,  much  used  for  making  mats-,  etc.; 
gachapahi  and  maria,  good  for  masts;  mureielago,  hobo  de 


206  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

puerco  (e  de  cerco),  barigon,  haya,  raton,  carciin,  sibo,  and 
terciopelo,  all  useful  to  carpenters,  as  are  also  the  guayabito 
de  montana,  cerezo  silvestre  (wild  cherry),  pavo,  niostrenco, 
and  conaza. 

"The  following  woods  used  for  making  dyestuff  are  found 
in  the  department:  Uvilla,  curtidora,  divi-divi,  dragon's 
blood,  tuno,  mulberrj^  Brazilian  wood  (brasilete),  igua,  agua- 
cate  colorarlo,  guayacan,  anil  araarillo  de  yuca,  carocolito 
(purple  shell),  muqueva,  ojo  de  venado  (black),  tagua  de 
montaiia  (indelible  carmine),  and  nazareno  (purple)." — Co- 
loriihia,  Bureau  of  America]!  Repuhlics. 

(c)  ANIMAL  RESOURCES. 

It  is  reported  that  mules  maj"  be  obtained  in  numbers  and 
in  localities  and  in  one  week's  notice,  as  follows: 

Pedregal 100 

Puerto  MiTtis 30 

Mensable 50 

Aguaclulce 50 

Chepo 10 

Chorrera 10 

Panama ,  50 

— Report  of  Capf.  C.  B.  Humplirey,  Twenty-second  Infan- 
try, 1903. 

(d)  PRODUCTS  AND  MANUFACTURES. 


((  rr 


The  department  produces  cloves  equal  in  fragrance  to 
those  of  Ceylon ;  palosanto,  from  which  is  obtained  the  famous 
balsam  maria;  copaiba,  caucho,  almaciga  (mastic),  copachi, 
chutra,  caraiia,  cabima,  cateba,  croton,  i^alo  de  sangre,  sau- 
medio,  jiguacanelo,  balsamo  de  drago,  chiriqui,  chinchire, 
tustele  (yielding  rubber,  like  the  caucho),  and  palo  de  vaca. 

"Honey  and  beeswax  are  i)roduced  in  great  abundance. 

"The  following  fruits  and  vegetables  are  produced  on  the 
Isthmus,  both  wild  and  in  cultivation: 

"Aguacate,  cacao,  coco,  pomaroda,  mango,  mamei  del  pais, 
naranjo  dulce,  naranjo  agrio,  limon,  torovijo,  maraiion,  guan- 
abano,  membrillo  (quince),  gua.yabo  zapote,  brevo,  hicaco, 
anon,  hagua,  name,  uvitoguagabilia,  calanva,  nispero,  cerezo, 
higo  (figs),  caimito,  higo  chumbo,  granado,  papayo,  sabio, 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  207 

granadillo,  ciruela  (plum),  giiate,  curubo,  piiio,  piiinelo, 
sapoya,  eereiijena  (eggplant),  tomate  (tomatoes),  melon, 
sandia,  ealabaza  dulce  (squash),  and  eight  sorts  of  aji  (cap- 
sicum). 

"Among  the  palms  of  Panama  we  may  note  the  wine  palm, 
the  oil  palm,  the  corozo,  the  royal,  the  chontadura,  the  um- 
brella palm,  the  cabeza  de  negro  palm,  the  taparro,  and  the 
cocoa  palm,  which  is  remarkable  not  only  for  its  fruit,  but 
for  being  planted  around  settlements  to  protect  houses  from 
lightning,  as  it  serves  as  a  very  efficient  sort  of  lightning 
rod." — CoJonihia,  Bureau  of  American  Repuhlics. 

' '  While  coffee  is  being  grown  everywhere  in  the  depart- 
ment, yet,  according  to  the  practical  study  and  experience  of 
a  Costa  Rican,  you  find  the  land  in  the  province  of  Code  to 
be  the  best  fitted  for  the  cultivation  of  this  most  precious 
grain. 

"  Cocoa  has  a  great  future  in  the  Isthmus,  and  there  are 
already  some  valuable  plantations  under  cultivation — rub- 
ber, ivorj'  nuts,  cabinetmakers'  wood,  wood  for  dyeing  pur- 
poses, mother-of-pearl  and  tortoise  shell,  sarsaparilla,  ipeca- 
cuhaua,  leathers  and  skins  of  different  kinds. 

' '  The  tobacco  produced  is  of  excellent  qualitj^  but  its  pro- 
duction hardly  suffices  for  home  consumption. 

"  Sugar-cane  products  and  the  breeding  of  domestic  animals 
constitute  the  principal  riches  of  Chiriqui,  Los  Santos,  Code, 
and  Veraguas.  They  lend  themselves  to  the  cultivation  of 
sugar  cane,  however,  with  great  ardor,  which  promises  such 
valuable  returns  through  its  products.  The  same  can  be  said 
of  the  cereals  belonging  to  their  zone,  which  up  to  the  pres- 
ent time  is  cultivated  for  interior  consumption." — Directory 
of  Pana  m  a ,  1898. 

"Ice,  formerly  imported  from  the  United  States,  is  now 
manufactured  in  Panama,  where  machinery  with  a  maximum 
product  of  about  10  tons  per  day  has  lately  been  established. 
The  ice  is  of  poor  quality,  because  of  an  imperfect  and  filthy 
water  supply,  and  is  sold  at  the  high  price  of  5  cents  silver 
(IM.)  per  j)ound.  Frequent  interruiitions  in  the  service  of 
this  important  commodity  have  occurred  during  the  year,  and 
many  complaints  are  consequentl}^  heard  in  the  commu- 
nity."—  Colombia,  British  Diplomatic  and  Consular  Reports, 
Report  for  the  year  1890  on  Panama. 
12'312— 03 14 


208  NOTES    ON"    PANAMA. 

(e)  REVENUES. 

Taxes,  etc. — "Previous  to  1880  the  Panama  Railway  had 
been  paying  to  Colombia  an  annual  revenue  of  225,000  pesos 
gold,  but  in  that  year  the  income  was  anticipated  up  to 
March  27,  1908." 

Exports  and  Imports. — "Tliere  is  an  important  transit 
trade  passing  between  the  two  ports  of  Panama  and  Colon. 
In  1900  the  weight  of  goods  transported  westward  by  rail  was 
153,758  tons,  of  which  00,518  tons  was  from  New  York,  54,905 
tons  from  Europe,  and  the  remainder  was  in  local  traffic. 

"The  weight  carried  eastward  was  203,619  tons,  of  which 
118,670  tons  was  to  New  York,  77,219  tons  to  Europe,  and 
the  rest  was  in  local  traffic." — Statesman's  Yearbook,  1903. 

"The  export  trade  of  the  Department  of  Panama  showed 
an  advance  for  1898  over  1897  of  19  per  cent.  The  items 
showing  the  greatest  percentage  of  increase  are  rubber, 
mahogany,  ipecacuanha,  cocobolo,  medicinal  balsams,  ba- 
nanas, and  tortoise  shells.  The  total  value  of  the  articles 
sent  to  the  United  States  was  1777,792.69.  Besides  the  arti- 
cles named  the  following  are  included:  Cacao,  cocoanuts, 
coffee,  raw  hides,  skins,  ivory  nuts,  and  mother-of-pearl 
shells.  Exports  to  other  countries  amounted  to  $131,733.66; 
to  Great  Britain,  $103,777.09;  Germany,  $19,437.30,  and 
France,  $8,519.27. 

"From  Bocas  del  Toro,  the  seat  of  the  banana  industry, 
2,029,021  racimes  (bunches)  of  plantains  were  sent  to  the 
United  States  in  1896.  The  value  of  this  product  at  the  port 
of  shipment  was  1405,804.  The  fruit  is  conveyed  from  Bar- 
ranquilla  in  small  United  States  steamers  to  the  markets  of 
Mobile  and  New  Orleans,  the  round  trip  being  made  in  twelve 
daj's.  Fifteen  firms  in  Barranquilla,  ^^'llich  has  a  population 
of  10,000,  deal  in  bananas.  From  Barranquilla  the  exi)orts 
amounted  to  19, 280, 356. 53,  an  increase  over  1897  of  l>670, 303. 57. 
The  most  important  industrj^  in  this  section  is  the  manufac- 
ture of  soap  by  two  factories  equipped  with  the  latest  appli- 
ances. A  Spanish  firm  recently  erected  a  modern  candle 
factory  and  has  a  good  demand  for  its  goods.  Other  indus- 
tries are  several  distilleries,  an  iron  factorj^,  two  tanneries, 
with  a  monthly  output  of  3,000  hides,  and  a  number  of  brick 
kilns  and  tile  factories." — MontMy  Bulletin  of  the  Bureau  of 
A/mericun  Repuhlics,  June,  1890. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  209 

"The  exportation  of  products  has  commenced  to  be  quite 
considerable  in  the  Isthmus.  Recent  statistics  demonstrate 
that  the  exportations  equal  one-half  more  or  less  of  the 
importations  of  the  department. 

"The  exports  are  very  varied  and  rich,  commencing  with 
gold,  but  the  iDresent  revenue  statistics  finds  silver  at  the 
head,  which  is  exported  on  a  large  scale  from  the  northern 
shores,  especially  those  of  the  rich  and  flourishing  district 
of  Bocas  del  Toro." — Directory  of  Panama,  1898. 


V.  MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


TABLE  SETTING  FORTH  THE  TERRITORIAL,  POLITICAL,  FISCAL,  JUDICIAL 
ECCLESIASTICAL,  ELECTORAL,  NOTARY  AND  REGISTRY  DIVISIONS,  ETC., 
OF  THE  DEPARTMENT  OF  PANAMA,  FORMED  IN  ACCORDANCE  WITH  THE 
LAWS,  DECREES,  AND  REGULATIONS   IN   FORCE. 

A.  Provinces  of  the  department  {pblitical  and  fiscal) . 
[Directory  of  Panama.] 


Names  of  the  provinces  and 
municipal  districts. 


Colon  (capital.  Colon): 

1.  Bocas  del  Toro 

2.  Buenavista 

3.  Colon 

4.  Chagres 

5.  Donoso  - 

6.  Gatnn 

7.  Portobelo  -.. 

CocLE  (capital,  Penonome ) 

1.  Aguadulce 

2.  Anton 

3.  La  Pintada 

4.  Nata 

5.  Ola 

6.  Penonoinet 

Chiriqui  (capital,  David): 

1.  Alanje 

2.  Bugaba 

3.  David _ 

4.  Dolega 

5.  Gualaca 

6.  Los  Remedies 

T.  San  Felix 

8.  San  Lorenzo 

9.  Tole.. 

Los  Santos  (capital,  Pese) 

1.  Chitre 

2.  Guarare 

3.  Las  Minas- 

4.  Las  Tablas 

.5.  Los  Santos 

6.  Macaracas 

7.  Ocu 

8.  Parita 

9.  Pedasi 

10.  Pese. .- 

11.  Pocri 

12.  Santa  Maria 

13.  Tonosi 

Panama    (capital,    Pana- 
ma): 

1.  Arraijan 

2.  Balboa 

3.  Capira 

4.  Chame 

■5.  Chepo 

6.  Chorrera 

7.  Chepigana 

8.  Emperador 


Distance  Distance 

to  the       to  the 

city  of  1   city  of 

Panama.'  Bogota." 


Miriame-  Miriame- 

ters.b         ters.l' 

62.08        160 


5.03 

8.63 

8.07 

7.25 
10.05 

18.25 
15. 25 
18.05 
17.08 
19.08 
17.03 

52.25 
53.45 
50.55 
.52.35 
50.  .35 
40.08 
42.04 
45.08 
37.03 

25.56 

28.14 
27.85 
28.08 
25.  &5 
29.45 
26.03 

Zi.sr-, 

32. 02 
25.25 
30.01 
21.55 
29.90 


2.02 
8.05 
6.25 
8.75 
7.01) 
3.75 
20. 75 

.25 


142.3 

139 
139.5 
(f) 
139.2 
134 

im.b 
162.5 
165.3 
165.1 
167.1 
164.6 

199.6 

200 

197.8 

199.6 

198.1 

188 

189.7 

193. 1 

184.6 

172.8 

175. 4 

175. 15 

176.1 

172. 8 

176.4 

173.6 

171.1 

179.5 

172.5 

177.4 

168.8 

177 


149.6 
(<•) 
153.5 
156 
1.54.3 
1.51.  a5 
168 

147. 05 


Mayoralties. 


Chiriqui  Grande,  Bastimento,  Bocas 
del  Drago,  Bocas  del  Toro.         .zr; 

Tabernilla,  Ahorca  Lagarto,  Buena- 
vista, Caimito  Mulato. 

Monkey  Hill.  Majagual,  Playa  Plor. 

Lagarto,  Salud  y  Rio  Indio. 

Jamaiquita. 

Nombre  de  Dios,  Palenque. 

Pocri. 


Cocle,Paloverde,RioGrande,Tuabre. 


Pedregal,  Bajo  Boquete,  San  Pablo. 


Paritilla. 


Cocoli,  Farfan. 

San  Miguel,  Chiman,  Saboga. 

El  Potrero,  Cermeno. 

Corozal,  El  Llano. 

Chepigana,   La    Palma,   Garachine, 

Jaque,  Jurado,  Tucuti. 
Culebra,  Paraiso   y   Pedro  Miguel, 

Cascadas  y  Casas  Blancas. 


210 


n  Via  Cartagena. 

b  1  miriameter  equals  6,2i;W  English  miles. 

<■'  No  data. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


211 


A.  Provinces  of  the  department  {political  and  fiscal) —ContrnvieA. 

Distance  Distance 

Names  of  the  provinces  and 

to  the 

to  the 

• 

municipal  districts. 

city  of 

city  of 

Mayoralties. 

Panama. 

Bogota. 

Miriame- 

Miriume- 

Panama— Continued. 

ters. 

ters. 

9.  Gorgona 

3.7.5 

142.5 

Alto  y  Bajo  Obispo.  Matachin,  Ma- 
mey  y  Bailanionos,  San  Pablo, 
Cruces. 

10.  Panama 

.00 

147.3 

Pueblo  Nuevo.  Naos,  La  Boca,  Pa- 
cora. 

11.  Pinogana 

18.07 

165.3 

Cana.  Pinogana.  Yaviza.  El  Real  de 

Santamaria. 

12.  San  Carlos 

10.05 
L75 

1.57.8 
149.05 

13.  Taboga. 

Otoque. 

Veraguas  ( capital,  Santi- 

ago): 

1.  Calobre 

21.  ai 

168.6 

2.  Canazas 

2.5.03 

172.6 

3.  La  Mesa. 

27.08 
31.08 
26.65 

175.1 

179 

173.9 

4.  Las  Palmas 

5.  Montijo  ._ 

Coibita. 

6.  Rio  Jesus 

27.95 

22.09 

175.2 
170.2 

7.  San  Francisco 

8.  Santa  Fe 

36.03 
25.03 

183.3 
172.35 

9.  Santiago 

Atalaya. 

10.  Sona 

30.08 

178.1 

B.— . 

Judicial 

circuits 

and  sections. 

BOCAS  DEL  ToRO   (cap 

ital,  Bo 

cas    Lo 

s  Santos — Continued. 

del  Toro) : 

5.  Los  Santos. 

Bocas  del  Toro.  con 

los  corn 

3gi- 

6.  Macaracas. 

mientos  de  Chiriq 

[ui  Gran 

de. 

7.  Ocu. 

Bastimentos .  Boo. 

IS  del  Dr 

ago 

8.  Parita. 

y  Bocas  del  Toro. 

9.  Pedasi. 

Colon  (capital.  Colon) 

10.  Pese. 

1.  Buenavista. 

11.  Pocri. 

2.  Colon. 

12.  Santa  Maria. 

3.  Chagres. 

13.  Tonosi. 

4.  Donoso. 

Panama  (capital,  Panama): 

5.  Gatun. 

1.  Arraijan. 

6.  Portobelo. 

2.  Balboa. 

CocLE  (capital,  Penono 

me): 

3.  Capira. 

1.  Aguadulce. 

4.  Chame. 

2.  Anton. 

5.  Chepo. 

3.  La  Pintada. 

6.  Chorrera. 

4.  Nata. 

7.  Chepigana. 

5.  Ola. 

8.  Emperador. 

6.  Penonome. 

9.  Gorgona. 

Chiriqui  (capital,  Davi 

d): 

10.  Panama. 

1.  Alanje. 

11.  Pinogana. 

2.  Bngaba. 

12.  San  Carlos. 

3.  David. 

18.  Taboga. 

4.  Dolega. 

Veraguas  (capital,  Santiago): 

5.  Gualaca. 

1.  Calobre. 

6.  Los  Renaedios. 

2.  Cfiaazas. 

7.  San  Felix. 

3.  La  Mesa. 

8.  San  Lorenzo. 

4.  Las  Palmas. 

9.  Tole. 

.5.  Montijo. 

Los  Santos  (capital,  P 

ese): 

6.  Rio  Jesus. 

1.  Chitre. 

7.  San  Francisco. 

2.  Guarare. 

8.  Santa  Fe. 

3.  Las  Minas. 

9.  Santiago. 

4.  Las  Tablas, 

10.  Sona. 

212 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 
C. — Educational  provinces. 


Municipal  districts  forming  the  provinces. 


Rui'al  schools  in  the  mimicipal  districts. 


Colon  (capital,  Colon): 

1.  Bocas  del  Tore 

2.  Bnenavista. 

3.  Colon , 

4.  Chagres 

5.  Gatun. 

().  Portobelo 

CocLE  (capital,  Penonome): 

1.  Anton 

2.  Aguadiilce 

3.  La  Pintada. 

4.  Nata. 

5.  Ola. 

6.  Penonome , 

Chiriqui  (capital,  David): 

1.  Alanje. 

2.  Bugaba. 

3.  David 

4.  Dolega.. 

5.  Gualaca. 

6.  Los  Eemedios. 

7.  San  Felix. 

8.  San  Lorenzo. 

9.  Tole. 

Los  Santos  (capital,  Pese): 

1.  Chitre. 

2.  Guarare. 

3.  Las  Minas. 

4.  Las  Tablas. 

5.  Los  Santos 

6.  Macaracas. 

7.  Ocu. 

8.  Parita. 

9.  Pedasi. 

10.  Pese. 

11.  Pocri 

12.  Santa  Maria. 

13.  Tonosi. 

Panama  (capital,  Panama): 

1.  Araijan. 

2.  Balboa 

3.  Capira 

4.  Chame  

.5.  Chepo. 

6.  Chorrera. 

7.  Chepigana 

8.  Emperador 

9.  Gorgona 

10.  Panama.. 

11.  Pinogana 

12.  San  Carlos. 

13.  Taboga. 
Veraguas  (capital,  Santiago) 

1.  Calobre. 

2.  C^anazas. 

3.  La  Mesa. 

4.  Las  Palmas. 
.5.  Montijo. 

6.  Rio  Jesus. 

7.  San  Francisco. 

8.  Santa  Fe» 

9.  Santiago 

10.  Sona. 


Chiriqui  Grande  y  Bastimentos. 

Playa  de  Flor. 
Lagarto. 

Palenqiie,  Viento  Frio  y  Nombre  de  Dios. 

El  Valle. 

Pocri  y  El  Cristo. 


Rio  Grande  y  Toabre. 


Boqueron   Pedregal,  Las   Lomis  y  San 

Pablo. 
Tinajas. 


La  Palma. 


Paritilla. 


Chiman. 

Cermeno  y  El  Potrero. 

Bejuco. 


La  Palma. 

Culebra,  Paraiso. 

Matachin  y  Bailamonos. 

Pacora. 

Santa  Maria,  Garachine  y  Yaviza. 


La  Colorada. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


213 


D.  Xotartj  and  registry  circuits. 


BoCAS  DEL  ToRO  (capital,  Bocas  del 
Toro) : 
1.  Bocas  del  Toro. 
Colon  (capital,  Colon): 

1.  Buenavista. 

2.  Colon. 

3.  Chagres. 

4.  Donoso. 

5.  Gatun. 

6.  Portobelo. 

CocLE  (capital,  Penonome): 

1.  Aguadulce. 

2.  Anton. 

3.  La  Pintada. 

4.  Nata. 

5.  Ola. 

6.  Penonome. 
Chiriqui  (capital,  David): 

1.  Alanje. 

2.  Bugaba. 

3.  David. 

4.  Dolega. 

5.  Gualaca. 

6.  Los  Remedios. 

7.  San  Felix. 

8.  San  Lorenzo. 

9.  Tole. 

Los  Santos  (capital,  Pese): 

1.  Chitre. 

2.  Guarare. 

3.  Las  Minas. 

4.  Las  Tablas. 

5.  Los  Santos. 

6.  Macaracas. 


Los  Santos — Continued. 

7.  Ocii. 

8.  Parita. 

9.  Pedasi. 

10.  Pese. 

11.  Pocri. 

12.  Santa  Maria. 

13.  Tono.si. 

Panama  (capital,  Panama) : 

1.  Arraijan. 

2.  Balboa. 

3.  Capira. 

4.  Chame. 

5.  Chepo. 

6.  Cliorrera. 

7.  Chepigana. 

8.  Emperador. 

9.  Gorgona. 

10.  Panama. 

11.  Pinogana. 

12.  San  Carlos. 

13.  Taboga. 

Veraguas  (capital,  Santiago) : 

1.  Calobre. 

2.  Caiiazas. 

3.  La  Mesa. 

4.  Las  Palmas. 

5.  Monti  jo. 

6.  Rio  Jesus. 

7.  San  Francisco. 

8.  Santa  Fe. 

9.  Santiago. 
10.  Sona. 


214 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


Population  electoral  circuits  or  districts,  1S70. 


Colon  (capital.  Colon): 

1.  Bocas  del  Tore 5,250 

2.  Buenavista 1,458 

3.  Colon... 8,246 

4.  Chagres-- .-. 1,277 

5.  Donoso 2,903 

6.  Gatun 606 

7.  Portobelo- - 10,531 

30,271 

COCLE  (capital,  Penonome): 

1.  Aguadulce _ 3,074 

2.  Anton 2,792 

3.  LaPintada. 5,711 

4.  Nata 5,888 

5.  Ola ----  3,756 

6.  Penonome 12,667 


33,888 


Chiriqui  (capital,  David): 

1.  Alanje __ 7,487 

2.  Bugaba 1,059 

3.  David.. 9,613 

4.  Dolega 3,407 

5.  Gualaca 2, 413 

6.  Los  Remedios.- 1.538 

7.  San  Felix 2,230 

8.  San  Lorenzo 2,309 

9.  Tole 2,384 


32,440 


Los  Santos  (capital,  Pese): 

1.  Chitre 2,378 

2.  Guarare 1,472 

3.  Las  Minas 2,761 

4.  LasTablas 5,047 

5.  Los  Santos 4,023 

6.  Macaracas. 3,199 

7.  Ocu... 3,321 


Los  Santos— Continued. 

8.  Parita... 2,.551 

9.  Pedasi- 4,182 

10.  Pese... 3,318 

11.  Pocri 3,302 

12.  Santa  Maria 2. 264 

13.  Tonosi 1,500 


39,318 


Panama  (capital,  Panama): 

1.  Araijan 1,319 

2.  Balboa.. 3,220 

3.  Capira. 1,-501 

4.  Chame 1,961 

5.  Chepo - 8, 1.57 

6.  Chorrera 4,8:M 

7.  Chepigana 3, 716 

8.  Emperador. 1,420 

9.  Gorgona... 2, .564 

10.  Panama. 16,406 

11.  Pinogana 3,715 

12.  San  Carlos 2,034 

13.  Taboga. 1,568 

47,415 


Veraguas  (capital,  Santiago): 

1.  Calobre .....  3,670 

2.  Canazas.... 3,824 

3.  La  Mesa 3,.561 

4.  LasPalmas 2,691 

5.  Montijo.... 1,800 

6.  Rio  Jesus 2,027 

7.  San  Francisco 3. 471 

8.  Santa  Fe 3,508 

9.  Santiago. 9,219 

10.  Sona 3,439 

37,210 

•     Total 220,.542 


Towns  and  localities  connected  bi/  tlie  telegraph. — Aguadulce.  Anton. 
Arraijan,  Capira,  Chame,  Cliitre.  Chorrera.  David.  Guarare,  Horconci- 
tos,  Las  Lajas,  La  Mesa,  La  Pintada,  Las  Palmas,  Los  Santos,  Las 
Tablas,  Nata,  Ocu,  Panama,  Parita,  Penonome.  Pedregal,  Pese,  Reme- 
dios, Santiago.  San  Carlos,  San  Felix,  Santa  Maria.  San  Lorenzo.  Sona 
Tole. 

' '  An  advance  across  the  Isthmus  from  Colon  toward  Panama 
would  be,  of  course,  easiest  by  the  railroad  line,  as  the  trails 
are  all  generally  very  difficult  and  overgrown  with  brush. 
There  is  a  telegraph  and  telephone  line  which  runs  across 
the  Isthmus  along  the  railroad.  The  railroad  is  ballasted 
with  rock  nearly  the  whole  distance  from  Colon  to  Panama. 
Light  artillery  could  be  taken  along  the  railroad  on  trains  or 
could  be  taken  along  the  railroad  track,  when  the  necessaiy 
amount  of  boards  and  planks  would  have  to  l)e  carried  to  lay 
over  the  bridges.  Tliree  equipped  men  on  foot  could  march 
abreast  along  the  railroad  line. 

"There  is  water  communication  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Chagres  River  to  Gatun,  whicli  has  already  been  spoken  of. 


'■^t*-'-'.  re*-.;.'- 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  215 

The  milroad  is  aeiierally  straight,  with  no  more  than  the 
ordinary  numl)erof  curves.  Vegetation  on  both  sides  of  the 
track  grows  most  luxuriantly,  there  being  a  great  man j^  bam- 
boo and  banana  trees. 

"There  are  several  hills  which  could  be  occupied  to  pre- 
vent advance  along  the  line.  The  railroad  is  quite  well 
equipped  with  plenty  of  rolling  stock.  There  are  about 
65  bridges,  principally  steel,  the  most  important  and  longest 
crossing  the  Chagres  River  at  Gatun. 

"About  150  small  cart  mules  and  horses  could  be  oV)tained 
in  the  city  of  Panama;  about  75  pack  mules  could  be  obtained 
in  C'horrera,  while  not  more  than  50  or  60  animals  could  be 
obtained  in  the  city  of  Colon. 

"Guns  mounted  upon  a  point  near  the  light-house  in  the 
city  of  Colon  could  protect  both  harbors  against  a  hostile 
fleet.  Fresh  water  is  obtainable  at  Colon  for  vessels,  but  is 
of  poor  quality. 

"About  one-half  mile  west  of  the  city  of  Panama  is  a  large 
hill  about  GOO  feet  in  height  (Ancon).  On  the  northeast  side 
of  this  hill  are  located  large  hospital  buildings  of  the  French 
Canal  Company.  This  hospital  has  18  wards,  each  ward 
having  40  beds,  and  has  very  modern  equipment.  The  drain- 
age system,  however,  is  not  very  well  arranged,  and  at  pres- 
ent the  sanitary  condition  of  the  hospital  is  not  good.  Modern 
artillery  could  be  placed  upon  this  hill  and  command  the  citj- 
of  Panama  and  l)oth  the  harl)ors,  also  the  anchorage  near  the 
island  of  Culeljra.  Other  hospitals  are  the  Hospital  de  Estran- 
jeros,  having  room  for  75  patients,  and  the  Hospital  of  Santo 
Tomas,  with  11  nurses.  Sisters  of  Charity. 

"The  only  points  where  troops  could  be  landed  near  Colon 
on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  Isthmus  are  Portobelo  Harbor, 
Manzanillo  or  Limon  r>ay,  at  Boca  del  Toro,  or  in  favorable 
weather  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chagres  River.  The  only  place 
where  troops  could  be  landed  on  the  south  side  of  the  Isthmus 
is  at  the  harbor  of  Panama  or  La  Boca,  or  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Camito  River  near  Chorrera." — Report  of  Cajd.  C.  B.  Hnvt- 
phrey,  Tiuenty-second  Infanirij,  1903. 

The  Interior. — "Although  in  the  search  of  a  practicable 
canal  route  from  the  Atantic  Ocean  to  the  Pacific,  the  Isth- 
mus of  Panama  has  been  considerably  explored  transversely, 
it  w^ould  appear  that  longitudinally  it  has  not  received  the 
same  attention.     Thus,  w^hile  we  learn  that  between  Chepo 


If jt  LIEUT,  ««h  mFANWf 


216  NOTES    ON    PANAMA 

on  the  south  and  the  Gulf  of  San  Bias  on  the  north  the 
Isthmus  narrows  to  a  minimuin  width,  that  the  summit  of 
the  Cordillera  reaches  an  altitude  of  but  1,500  feet,  and  inci- 
dentally that  the  Indians  are  numerous,  w^arlike,  and  hostile; 
while  from  Cullen  we  learn  that  the  Cordillera  is  reduced  to 
a  height  of  350  feet  between  Caledonia  Bay  and  the  Savana 
River,  and  that  the  ridge  here  is  but  2  miles  wide  at  its  base, 
falling  away  on  both  sides  in  level  plains  (statements  proven 
to  be  erroneous  by  Selfridge);  and  while  again  we  are  in- 
formed that  by  following  the  course  of  the  Tuira  River  we 
shall  be  led  to  a  portage  to  the  Atrato  River  of  but  3  miles 
in  length  and  400  feet  in  height — while  we  are  furnished  with 
reports  like  these  derived  from  journeys  across  the  Isthmus, 
we  look  in  vain  for  accounts  of  exploration  lengthwise  of  this 
neck  of  land.  Roads  or  trails  there  appear  to  be  none.  In 
the  interior  tropical  growth,  jungle,  thicket,  and  sw^ampy 
morass  abound.  The  Cordilleras  are  irregular  and  difficult, 
few  towns  exist,  and  the  Indians,  in  some  localities  at  least, 
are  unconquered,  savage,  and  hostile.  With  such  obstacles 
to  overcome,  it  would  seem  on  the  whole  that  the  interior  of 
the  Isthmus  presents  almost  if  not  quite  insuperable  difficul- 
ties to  extensive  and  continuous  exploration  or  passage  along 
its  length . " —  Co  mp  ileT. 

PUBLIC   INSTRUCTION. 

"While  i3ublic  instruction  in  the  department  leaves  much 
to  be  desired,  yet  its  progress  is  slow  but  sure.  The  gi'eat 
obstacle  is  the  lack  of  competent  teachers. 

"The  secretarj'  of  public  instruction,  in  his  report  of  the 
year  1898  to  the  governor  of  the  department,  states  that 
elementary  schools  are  springing  up,  one  hy  one,  through- 
out the  entire  department,  but  that  it  is  of  greater  impor- 
tance to  produce  good  instructors  than  to  multiply  primary 
schools.  With  this  end  in  view  the  normal  school  for  teach- 
ers was  founded  in  May,  1897,  which  is  doing  a  i^romising 
work  under  the  direction  of  two  distinguished  ladies.  Dona 
Matilde  and  Dona  Rosa  Elena  Rubiano  C,  who  were  brought 
from  the  capital  of  the  Republic  expressly  for  that  purpose. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


217 


Educational  statistics  for  1896  and  1897. 


Pupils  reg- 
istered. 

Pupils  in 
attend- 
ance. 

1897.. 

6,592 
5,421 

4,006 

1896                                     ..               

3,636 

Increase  of  1897                          .                

1,171 
103 

370 

Further  increase  in  1897  by  means  of  normal  school  pupils 

103 

Total  increase  of  1897 

1,274 

473 

' '  For  the  most  part  the  schools  are  abundantly  supplied 
with  the  books  and  appliances  required  by  modern  pedagogy. 

"The  school  fund  has  a  revenue  to  be  applied  to  educa- 
tional purposes  of  more  than  1160,000  per  year. 

Educational  statistics  of  the  Department  of  Panama  for  1897-98. 


>, 

^  ■ 

m 

CO    . 

09 

n3  CO 

^8 

!0X 

CO  aj 
S  0 

Province. 

•3V 

■Si 

8 

3  0 

2* 

=1-1 

p.g 

®'o 

II 

1 
M 

it) 

1-^ 

11 

l.se 

-2-2 
g.2 

'^'■ 

'a" 

S 

s 

S- 

^ 

fe-^ 

12;  ii; 

12; 

^i 

!5 

Panama. 

15 

14 

10 

5 

18 

31 

1,179 

885 

1,199 

925 

Colon 

3 

6 

3 
6 

6 

4 

■■■■4" 

3 
3 



10 
11 

225 
438 

153 

321 

282 
401 

193 

Code 

270 

Los  Santos 

6 

5 

6 

1 

5 

n 

889 

268 

339 

255 

Veraguas  

3 

3 

6 

1 

2 

10 

203 

151 

282 

199 

Chiriqui 

7 

8 

4 

7 

I 

7 

353 

226 

242 

160 

Total 

40 

34 

36 

11 

38 

1 

80 

2,787 

2,0W 

2,745 

2,002 

Total  number  of  pupils  registered  of  both  sexes "-&,  592 

Total  number  or  pupils  in  attendance , .     4,  006 

— {Directory  of  Panama,  1898.) 


« Leaving,  apparently,  1,060  unaccounted  for  in  above  table. — Compiler. 


VI.  APPENDIX. 

EXTRACTS  FROM  REPORTS  OF  EXPLORATIONS  AND  SURVEYS  TO 
ASCERTAIN  THE  PRACTICABILITY  OF  A  SHIP  CANAL  BETWEEN 
THE  ATLANTIC  AND  PACIFIC  OCEANS  BY  WAY  OF  THE  ISTHMUS 
OF  DARIEN,  BY  COMMANDER  T.  0.  SELFRIDGE,  U.  S.  NAVY,  1870- 
1873. 

THE  OROLOGY  OF  THE  ISTHMUS   OF  DARIEN. 

(Survey  of  1870.) 

The  terms  Darien  and  Panama  are  indiscriminately  ap- 
plied to  the  narrow  neck  of  land  between  latitndes  8°  and 
10°  north,  connecting  North  and  Sonth  America.  Properly 
speaking,  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  comprises  all  the  territory 
watered  by  the  Chagres  and  its  tributaries  across  the  divide 
to  the  Pacific. 

The  Isthmus  of  Darien  extends  from  the  San  Bias  Moun- 
tains, which  separate  the  headwaters  of  the  Mandinga  and 
Marmoni  from  those  of  the  Chagres,  to  the  boundaries  of  the 
State  of  Choco,  or  to  the  mountain  range  from  which  the 
Tuyra  or  Darien  River  takes  its  rise,  this  range  running  in  a 
southwesterly  direction  from  the  mouth  of  the  Atrato  toward 
the  Pacific. 

The  Cordilleras,  entering  the  State  of  Panama,  diverge 
toward  the  Pacific,  and  on  the  line  of  the  Panama  Railroad 
are  not  distant  more  than  5  miles  from  that  ocean.  They 
lose  their  character  as  mountains,  and  the  divide,  ranging 
from  262  to  600  feet,  is  broken  into  a  great  number  of  isolated 
peaks  and  hills,  through  the  gorges  of  which  the  line  of  rail- 
road runs  to  the  city  of  Panama.  From  the  point  where  the 
railroad  crosses  the  divide,  the  latter  stretches  to  the  north- 
east, increasing  greatly  in  altitude,  and  bifurcates;  one  fork 
inclosing  the  headwaters  of  the  Chagres,  and,  dividing  it 
from  the  Mandina,  meets  the  Atlantic  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape 
Manzanillo.  The  other,  stretching  to  the  east  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  coast,  takes  the  name  of  the  Cordilleras  Lloranes, 

219 


220  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

and  forms  the  great  backbone  of  the  Darien  Isthmus  as  far 
as  the  mouth  of  the  Atrato.  It  here  again  suffers  a  depres- 
sion, separating  the  Atrato  from  the  Tuyra,  and,  turning  to 
the  southwest,  forms  with  the  Antioquian  chain  the  Andes 
of  South  America. 

Let  the  orology  of  Darien  be  carefully  considered,  and  it 
will  appear  that  though  through  its  whole  length  it  is  nar- 
rower than  any  other  of  the  transits  spoken  of,  there  are 
but  few  points  which  present  any  probability  of  a  successful 
search  for  a  low  level. . 

The  Cordilleras  Lloranes  skirt  the  Atlantic  coast  at  dis- 
tances varing  from  5  to  8  miles,  and  varying  in  altitude  from 
1,000  to  3,000  feet.  Between  this  range  and  the  shore  there 
are  three  other  ridges  or  hills,  decreasing  in  altitude  succes- 
sively, and  cut  up  with  valleys,  through  which  the  various 
water  courses  wind  their  way  to  the  Atlantic.  This  feature 
does  not  permit  plains  of  any  size,  circumscribes  the  valleys, 
and,  breaking  up  the  whole  surface  of  the  country,  covered 
as  it  is  with  a  dense  primeval  growth,  renders  all  attempts 
at  a  regular  survey  of  a  most  diftieult  nature. 

From  the  close  proximity  of  the  Cordilleras  to  the  Atlantic, 
we  find  no  rivers  of  any  size  except  the  Mandinga;  they  are 
mostly  brooks  in  the  dry  season  and  mountain  torrents  in 
the  wet. 

This  dividing  range  through  the  length  of  Darien  is  very 
narrow  at  its  crest,  in  some  places  not  exceeding  a  few  feet 
in  width,  with  steep  slopes  and  spurs  jutting  out  from  each 
side,  over  which  leads  the  Indian  trail.  These  spurs  inclose 
ravines,  which  extend  so  far  into  the  divide  that  the  water 
courses  which  spring  from  them  are  often  not  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  apart  on  each  side,  and  they  would  in  them- 
selves form  an  important  feature  in  reducing  the  estimates 
of  excavation,  but  for  the  fact  that  their  mean  level  is  too 
high  to  enable  us  to  dispense  with  tunneling. 

The  western  slope  of  the  Cordilleras,  being  much  wider,  is 
drained  by  three  large  rivers.  The  Bayamo,  rising  in  the 
Chiman  range,  an  offshoot  of  the  Cordilleras,  flows  north ;  the 
Chucunaqua,  also  rising  in  the  southern  slope  of  the  Chiman 
Mountains,  empties  into  the  Tuyra  not  far  from  its  mouth; 
the  Tuyra,  the  largest  river  of  the  Isthmus,  rising  in  the 
boundaries  of  the  State  of  Choco  in  the  south,  drains  the 
western  slope  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  221 

The  Cordilleras  skirting  so  closely  the  Atlantic  coast,  it 
follows  that  an}-  deep  depression  in  their  outline  could  be 
seen  from  the  sea,  though  its  depth  might  be  hid  bj'^  the 
intervening  hills  that  lie  between  them  and  the  coast.  No 
such  depression  is  visible  except  in  the  valley  of  the  Man- 
dinga,  and  constant  inquiries  among  different  tribes  of  Indi- 
ans still  further  strengthen  this  fact. 

The  Chiman  range  cuts  the  Isthmus  transversely  and 
separates  the  sources  of  two  rivers,  one  flowing  north  and 
the  other  south;  it  is  therefore  evident  the  mean  height  of 
any  transit  line  will  be  greater  the  nearer  j^ou  approach  the 
center  of  the  Isthmus.  In  other  words,  from  the  configura- 
tion of  the  land  as  marked  by  the  water  courses,  it  must  be 
at  the  extrelnities,  and  not  in  the  center,  that  we  can  with 
any  success  hope  to  find  a  favorable  route. 

The  northern  extremity  is  but  36  miles  across,  and  is  the 
narrowest  portion  of  the  western  continent.  The  southern 
extremity  embraces  the  valley  of  the  Tuyra;  and,  though 
wider  than  the  other  portion,  it  has  the  advantage,  if  reports 
are  true,  of  having  the  lowest  divide  anj^where  to  be  found. 
The  question  of  harbors,  entering  so  minutely  into  the  canal 
problem,  still  further  narrows  our  researches. 

There  are  but  two  fine  harbors  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  the 
Gulf  of  San  Bias  and  Caledonia  Bay.  Both  of  these  are 
admirable  and  possess  every  requirement,  and  from  their 
vicinity  only  could  a  canal  well  be  constructed. 

Though  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  is  an  unexplored  wilderness 
and  but  little  known,  j^et,  for  the  purpose  of  canalization, 
there  are  therefore  but  three  portions  that  admit  of  an}^ 
necessity  of  exploration  to  settle  the  question  of  its  adapta- 
bility to  the  purpose  in  view. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  Darien,  like  other  portions  of  the  Tropics, 
may  be  divided  into  two  seasons — wet  and  dry.  The  former 
extends  from  May  to  Januar}";  but  the  rainfall  varies  greatly 
for  different  months.  Commencing  in  May,  this  month  and 
June  are  rainy,  but  in  July  and  until  the  middle  of  August 
the  weather  is  comj)aratively  good,  and  labor  at  this  period 
would  be  but  little  incommoded. 

In  the  middle  of  August  commence  the  heavy  rains,  and 
they  continue  until  January-.     Severe  squalls,  waterspouts, 


222  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

vivid  thunder  and  lightning,  and  such  rain  as  may  well  be 
called  a  deluge  mark  this  period.  At  this  time  no  excava- 
tions would  be  possible  not  protected  with  sheds.  The  rivers 
overflow  their  banks  and  all  low  land  near  the  coast  is 
inundated. 

The  dry  season,  or  the  season  of  the  breezes  as  it  is  some- 
times called,  commences  in  January  and  ends  in  May.  At 
this  time  the  trade  winds  blow  fresh  from  the  north,  and  a 
heavy  sea  breaks  all  along  the  coast,  rendering  it  impossible 
to  land  or  anchor  when  not  protected  by  reefs  or  harbors. 
The  climate  at  this  period  is  delightful;  little  or  no  rain  falls 
except  in  the  mountains,  which,  intercepting  the  trade  clouds, 
always  precipitate  more  or  less  moisture  upon  the  Atlantic 
slope;  the  air  is  moist  and  cool,  the  sky  clear  day  and  night, 
and  the  thermometer  ranges  between  79°  and  86°. 

After  the  expiration  of  the  trades  in  the  latter  part  of 
April,  sea  and  land  breezes  prevail,  and  with  them  the  ther- 
mometer rises  to  88°  and  falls  to  76°,  showers  are  frequent, 
and  heavy  rain  for  a  day  or  two. 

Though  the  above  is  the  general  aspect  of  the  seasons,  the 
experience  of  this  expedition  has,  however,  been  different. 
Rain  has  occurred  more  or  less  every  month,  particularly 
three  or  four  days  before  the  new  moon,  and  especially  in  the 
interior,  where  work  was  interrupted  whole  days.  Though 
it  is  a  disputed  point  that  the  moon  has  any  effect  in  dis- 
turbing the  equilibrium  of  the  earth's  atmosphere,  the 
changes  of  the  weather  with  the  changes  of  the  moon  were 
very  marked  upon  the  Isthmus.  The  closing  days  of  the 
lunar  month  were  sure  to  be  marked  with  rain,  and  showers 
were  always  more  frequent  in  the  latter  than  in  the  early 
quarters  of  the  moon. 

With  us  the  month  of  May  was  marked  with  unusually 
severe  rains;  the  enormous  amount  of  7  inches  fall  in  one 
night  was  recorded  at  Aspinwall;  but  during  the  first  two 
weeks  in  June  the  weather  was  charming.  Such  an  amount 
of  rain  in  the  dry  season  and  such  a  heavy  fall  in  May  had 
rarely  been  known.  The  Isthmus  of  Darien  has  a  most  un- 
enviable reputation  for  sickness.  This  is  partly  traditional, 
from  the  early  experiences  of  the  Spaniards,  and  partly  from 
our  experiences  on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  Nicaragua,  and 
other  portions  of  Central  America.  The  formation  of  Aspin- 
wall and  of  a  portion  along  the  line  of  the  railroad  is  coral- 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  223 

line.  The  mindi  and  other  swamps  in  the  bottom  lauds  of 
the  Chagres  River  hold  in  decomposition  a  vast  amount  of 
vegetable  matter.  Unfavorable  as  this  should  be,  the  record 
of  the  Panama  Railroad  develops  a  mortalitj^  of  only  293 
white  men  out  of  0,000  that  were  constautl}^  engaged  on  the 
work.  The  coolies  fared  the  worse;  the  negroes  and  natives 
better. 

That  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  is  vastly  more  healthy  is  not 
only  the  unanimous  record  of  every  previous  explorer,  but  is 
abundanth"  verified  by  the  experience  of  this  exiDedition, 
which,  numbering  a  force  of  280  men,  suffered  but  one  death, 
and  that  from  drowning,  though  exposed  to  a  severe  test 
from  the  constant  exposure  incident  to  the  surve}',  which  at 
all  times  required  a  large  number  in  the  field.  The  fever 
we  met  with  differs  from  the  Chagres  fever,  leaving  none  of 
the  effects  of  the  latter  upon  the  system,  and  arose  more  from 
fatigue  and  privation  than  from  any  climatic  causes.  That 
a  less  favorable  condition  of  health  would  be  experienced  in 
the  wet  season  is  undoubtedly  correct;  but  our  ships  of  war 
lie  for  months  in  the  harbor  of  Aspinwall  without  injury, 
and  I  have  no  idea,  with  proper  shelter  and  food,  that  the 
excavation  of  a  canal  upon  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  would  prove 
any  more  unhealthy'  than  in  many  places  in  the  United  States 
where  the  virgin  soil  is  first  turned  up. 

INHABITANTS. 

The  whole  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  except  a  small  portion 
of  the  valley  of  the  Tuyra,  comprising  the  towns  of  Chipo- 
gana,  Pinogana,  Yavisa,  and  Santa  Maria,  and  a  few  scat- 
tering inhabitants  on  the  Bayamo  near  its  mouth,  is  unin- 
habited except  by  the  San  Bias  or  Darien  Indians.  It  is  on 
account  of  their  jealous  exclusion  of  foreigners  that  so  little 
is  known  of  the  country.  In  1710  the  Catholic  missionaries 
had  succeeded  in  establishing  a  number  of  towns  on  the 
Atlantic  coast  and  upon  the  rivers  flowing  into  the  Gulf  of 
San  Miguel,  but  they  were  all  destroj^ed  by  the  Indians.  In 
1790  a  treaty  of  peace  was  made  with  the  Indians  of  Darien, 
in  compliance  with  which  the  Spaniards  abandoned  all  their 
forts  in  that  district,  in  which  no  white  man  has  since  settled. 
They  have  the  usual  characteristics  of  the  copper-colored 
race,  but  are  much  lower  in  stature  than  the  Xorth  American 
12312—03 15 


224  NOTES    (m    PANAMA. 

Indians,  being  rarely  met  with  over  5  feet  G  inches  in  height. 
They  are  a  muscular  race,  capable  of  great  exertion  for 
Avhieh  their  life  in  canoes  or  the  broken  nature  of  their 
mountain  homes  peculiarly  fit  them.  They  are  very  peace- 
able in  their  UxT,tures,  and  I  could  learn  of  no  conflict  between 
the  villages,  but  3^et  independent  and  resolute  against  for- 
eigners. They  inhabit  the  wdiole  Atlantic  coast  from  San 
Bias  to  the  the  Tarena,  mouth  of  the  Atrato,  and  in  the 
interior  from  the  Sucubti  to  the  upper  parts  of  the  Bayamo. 
There  is  no  head  or  chief  of  the  whole  tribe,  as  commonly 
reported;  but  though  the  language  and  customs  are  similar, 
each  village  or  tribe  has  its  head  man  or  chief,  generally 
the  oldest  man  of  the  tribe,  to  whom  all  pay  great  deference. 

The  Mountain  Indians,  or  Bravos  as  styled  by  the  Span- 
iards, are  more  numerous  than  generally  supposed.  On  the 
Sucubti  branch  of  the  C'hucunaqua  we  found  three  lai-ge 
villages  that  could  not  have  contained  less  than  1,000  inhab- 
itants. The  most  warlike,  as  well  as  the  least  known,  and 
probabl}^  the  most  numerous,  are  the  Chucunas  and  Navi- 
gandis,  in  the  center  of  the  Isthmus.  The  interior,  back 
of  San  Bias,  is  uninhabited;  neither  are  the  Indian  settle- 
ments with  until  you  ascend  the  Bayamo  some  -tO  miles. 

The  coast  Indians,  from  contact  with  foreigners,  are  ver}^ 
docile  and  tractable,  and  by  a  conciliatory  course  I  found  no 
difficulty,  after  becoming  known,  in  obtaining  guides  and  all 
the  information  they  possess  of  the  interior;  but  they  stand 
in  awe  of  the  mountain  Indians  and  would  never  accompany 
me  into  their  territory.  They  live  j)rincipally  upon  fish, 
plantains,  and  bananas,  with  Indian  corn  and  a  kind  of 
cassava.  Some  sugar  cane  is  raised,  the  juice  of  Avhich, 
extracted  in  a  rude  way  between  two  poles,  upon  one  of 
which  an  Indian  jumps,  they  mix  with  cocoa  for  a  beverage. 

The  women  are  very  short,  and  their  large  features  and 
straight  coarse  hair  do  not  give  them  a  prepossessing  appear- 
ance. After  reaching  womanhood  thej^  cut  their  hair  short 
and  blacken  the  teeth.  They  wear  large  gold  rings  in  their 
noses  and  ears,  and  necklaces  of  silver  pieces,  tiger,  monkej', 
and  alligator  teeth.  The  women  all  tattoo  across  the  bridge 
of  the  nose  and  paint  their  cheek  bones  red,  but  paint  or 
tattoo  is  seldom  used  among  the  men. 

I  was  not  able  to  discover  their  ancient  form  of  worship. 
Their  belief  in  a  Supreme  Being  is  the  result  of  contact 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  225 

with  the  Spaniards  a  century  ago  rather  than  an  ancient 
tribal  l)elief.  They  believe  in  evil  spirits,  and  their  Leles, 
or  medicine  men,  have  numerous  ugh'  images  and  ridiculous 
relics  that  are  believed  to  possess  the  power  to  cure  dis- 
eases. Thej'  are  exceedingly  averse  to  labor,  except  the  little 
re([uired  in  the  cultivation  of  tlieir  fields,  and  no  assistance 
from  this  source  would  be  obtained  for  the  work  of  a  canal. 
The\'  believe  that  God  made  the  country  just  as  it  is,  and 
that  He  would  be  angry  with  them  and  kill  them  if  they 
assisted  in  any  work  constructed  by  white  men.  Work  in 
the  fields  is  left  to  the  women,  but  the  severe  labor  is  mostly 
performed  by  men.  Polygamj^,  though  permitted,  is  rare, 
and  the  Darien  Indians  are  particularly  marked  by  their 
jealous  exclusion  of  women  from  observation.  During  our 
stay  at  Caledonia  Bay  no  women  were  ever  met  with,  and 
\\\wn  our  approach  the}'  were  always  removed  from  the  vil- 
lages, and  this  was  the  only  mark  of  fear  they  evinced 
toward  us.  No  traces  of  amalgamation  were  met  with  but 
some  albinos.  Their  arms  are  principally  the  bow  and 
arrow,  in  the  use  of  which  they  are  very  skillful,  and  the 
single-barreled  shotgun. 

The  Mountain  Indians  rarely  visit  the  coast,  except  to 
trade  their  native  products,  ivory  nuts,  cocoa,  and  caout- 
chouc, for  cotton  cloths,  beads,  and  a  few  simple  domestic 
utensils.  The  Coast  Indians  carry  on  a  large  trade  in  cocoa- 
nuts,  ivory  nuts,  and  tortoise  shell.  Though  the  Republic  of 
Colombia  has  a  nominal  authority,  they  have  always  main- 
tained their  independence.  They  number  probably  not  less 
than  seven  thousand,  but  tlieir  strength  lies  in  the  rugged 
nature  of  their  country.  Their  independence  of  character 
prevents  the  use  of  presents  to  any  extent,  and  the}^  will  be 
of  little  service  in  procuring  a  desired  policy.  Individuals 
would  refuse  to  receive  gifts  until  they  had  obtained  the  per- 
mission of  their  headmen,  and  I  could  never  prevail  uijon 
any  of  the  chiefs  to  accept  anything  in  ray  official  capacity. 
An  amusing  example  of  this  occurred  on  one  occasicni.  T 
was  paj'ing  my  first  visit  to  the  chief  of  the  Sassardis,  and, 
ignorant  of  their  iDrejudices,  had  brought  for  him  a  large 
present  of  cloth,  needles,  etc.  He  at  first  refused,  but  after- 
wards accepted  them  out  of  compliment  to  me,  as  he  said,  as 
I  told  him  it  was  the  custom  in  my  country  never  to  take 
back  a  present  once  given.     After  our  council  had  broken 


226  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

up,  I  noticed  a  palaver  among  tliem,  and  on  mj^  return  to  mj^ 
gig  found  the  present  returned.  I  went  back  and  told  them 
I  was  very  angry  at  their  discourtesy,  but  the}'  replied  their 
customs  would  not  permit  them  to  receive  presents  from  for- 
eign governments.  However,  I  put  the  present  on  the  beach, 
and  afterwards  saw  the  cloth  in  the  chief's  house.  This 
denial  of  what  they  would  gladly  purchase,  showed  an  inde- 
pendence of  character  cropping  out  in  an  amusing  wa}'  that 
was  pleasant  to  find. 

As  a  whole  this  tribe  is  cowardly,  but  treacherous,  and, 
though  they  are  to  be  feared  only  by  small  i^arties,  become 
dangerous  in  a  work  like  ours,  from  their  knowledge  of  the 
country,  to  the  scattered  parties  engaged  in  surveying  or 
bringing  up  supplies. 

GEOLOGICAL  FORTVEATION. 

The  geological  formation  of  the  Isthmus  presents  but  little 
diversity  from  the  other  portions  of  the  great  range  of 
mountains  of  which  it  forms  a  part.  There  were  no  indica- 
tions of  recent  volcanic  action,  and  but  few  volcanic  stones 
were  found.  The  mountains  themselves  thrown  up  in  the 
original  upheaval  are  immense  masses  of  syenite  or  trap. 

The  plains  for  from  two  to  five  miles  from  the  coast  are  of 
coralline  formation,  covered  with  the  alluvium  washed  from 
the  mountains,  a  system  of  reclaiming  from  the  sea  which  is 
a  striking  feature  of  the  world's  economy. 

Passing  from  the  coralline  formation,  we  meet  an  outer 
cropi)ing  of  sandstone  at  a  high  angle,  which,  although 
modified  by  the  surrounding  topography,  taken  in  connec- 
tion with  the  steep  slojie  of  the  mountains  on  the  Atlantic 
slope,  appears  to  have  been  upheaved  and  at  the  same  time 
folded  over. 

At  an  elevation  of  100  feet  on  the  Caledonia  route,  syenite 
is  first  met  with,  which,  forming  the  substructure  of  the 
mountain  area,  extends  for  some  14  miles,  where  the  sand- 
stone again  becomes  visible,  which  continues  the  underlying 
formation  until  lost  in  the  clay  beds  of  the  Chucunaqua. 
Indications  of  copper  were  found  in  great  abundance  on  the 
Sassardi  and  Morti  line,  and  veins  of  pure  copper,  though 
small,  were  traced  for  several  feet.  Iron  and  copper  pyrites 
were  met  in  great  abundance,   but  no  indications  of  gold 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


227 


were   discovered   on   any   of    the    routes    explored   by    the 
expedition. 

Large  numbers  of  agates  were  obtained  on  the  Sassardi 
line. 

The  San  Bias  route  was  singularly  uninteresting  in  geolog- 
ical specimens.  Decomposed  syenite  and  sandstone  were 
met  with  on  the  lower  portion  al)ove  an  altitude  of  20  feet, 
while  trap  composed  the  formation  of  the  great  mountain 
area  of  this  route. 

******* 

DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    PORTION    OF   DARIEN    TO    BE 
EXPLORED. 

(Survey  of  1871.) 

The  Isthmus  of  Darien  may  be  subdivided  into  three  divi- 
sions— the  northwestern,  including  the  water-shed  of  the 
Bayamo  River,  on  the  Pacific,  and  the  Atlantic  coast  border- 
ing on  the  Bay  of  San  Bias  as  far  as  the  peak  of  Playon 
Chico;  the  central,  from  Playon  Chico  to  a  line  drawn  from 
Cape  Tiburon  to  Cape  Garaehine  (the  Cordilleras  break  off 
into  two  ranges  at  Playon  Chico,  one  continuing  along  the 
coast,  the  other,  crossing  the  isthmus  transversely,  ends  in 
the  higli  hills  that  skirt  the  north  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  San 
Miguel.  This  range  forms  the  divide  between  the  Bayam 
flowing  to  the  north  and  the  Chucunaqua  to  the  south) ;  the 
southern  included  between  parallel  7°  30'  and  8°  40'  north 
latitude.  From  Cape  Tiburon  the  coast  range  known  as  the 
Cordilleras  Llorenes  pursues  an  unbroken  line,  but  a  short 
distance  from  the  coast,  to  the  Puerto  Escondido.  At  the 
latter  point  it  recedes  and  bifurcates,  the  one  fork  running 
nearly  south,  graduallj^  lessening  in  altitude  till  it  disappears 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Cacarica  River;  the  other  takes  a  more 
westerly  direction  till  it  strikes  the  Pacific  coast,  forming 
the  true  divide,  known  by  the  name  of  Sancti  Espiritu 
Mountains.  It  is  in  the  vallej'  at  the  forks  of  this  range  that 
the  Cacarica,  a  tributaiy  of  the  Atrato,  rises,  emptying  into 
the  latter  some  40  miles  from  its  mouth. 

The  western  slope  of  this  range  is  drained  by  the  Tuyra 
River,  which  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  San  Miguel.  Two 
tributaries  of  the  latter  river — the  Paya  and  Cue — have  their 
sources  very  near   those   of   the   Cacarica  and   Peianchita. 


228  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

The  divide  between  them  seems  to  lose  its  mountainous 
character,  and  is  broken  up  into  hills  and  spurs,  over  which 
an  Indian  trail,  leading  from  one  side  of  the  divide  to  the 
other,  is  known  to  the  "caoutchandos,"  or  India-rubber 
hunters,  as  the  pass  of  the  Cacarica.  This  is  the  region, 
therefore,  that  I  proposed  thoroughly  to  explore — a  task 
requiring  a  combined  expedition  from  both  oceans,  which, 
running  separate  lines  of  level,  should  finally  connect  in  the 
interior. 

The  principal  explorers  \y1io  purj^ort  to  have  visited  this 
region  are  Ilellert,  Lacharme,  Gorgoza,  and  De  Puydt.  The 
facts  as  stated  by  them  are  so  positive  as  to  the  adaptabilitj^ 
of  this  route  that  one  could  but  feel  it  conclusive  that  here 
would  be  found  a  line  fullj^  equal  to  all  the  requirements  of  a 
suitable  location. 

Ilellert  contributed  a  paper  upon  his  explorations  to  the 
Berlin  Geographical  Societ}^  which  seemingly  gave  it  such 
authority  that  upon  its  assertions  I  based  mj-  plans  for  the 
surve}'  of  the  Pacific  slope.  For  a  translation  of  this  report 
by  Professor  Davidson  I  am  indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  the 
Coast  Survey.  Processor  Davidson  deduced  from  llellert's 
notes  the  total  height  of  the  divide  to  be  but  2oi  feet,  and 
the  Falls  of  Tapanaca,  many  miles  above  the  Cue  River,  but 
43  feet  above  sea-level.  This  was  all  couleur  de  rose,  and 
here  undoubtedly,  if  these  figures  had  been  borne  out  in 
facts,  was  the  long-sought-for  spot,  or,  as  Ilellert  terms  it, 
the  "key  to  the  Pacific.*'  He  says  further  that  there  are  8  to 
10  feet,  in  the  dry  season,  in  the  Tuyra  River,  as  far  as  the 
Tapanaca,  and  that  no  rocks  were  to  be  seen  over  the  whole 
of  this  distance,  and  the  river  bottom  sandy,  with  small 
pebbles. 

One  nmy  judge  of  my  surprise  when  I  learned  from  Mr. 
Xelson,  the  agent  of  the  railroad  at  Panama,  that  Hellert  was 
in  his  employ  while  in  the  country,  and  never  penetrated  the 
interior  farther  than  Pinogana. 

]\[ons.  Lacharme,  a  civil  engineer  of  South  America, 
explored  the  valle}'  of  the  Tuyra  as  far  as  the  divide,  in  I860, 
at  the  request  of  Seiior  Gorgoza,  who  supposed  he  had  dis- 
covered in  the  Spanish  ai'chives  information  that  would  lead 
to  the  discovery  of  a  pass  for  the  proposed  canal.  Lacharme 
published  a  very  interesting  narrative  of  his  travels,  in  Put- 
nam's Magazine.     He  places  tlie  moutli  of  the  Paya  River  at 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  229 

144  feet  above,  and  Paya  Village,  some  twenty- five  miles  up 
that  stream,  at  only  173  feet  above  sea-level.  He  states  he 
followed  the  Indian  trail  from  l*aya  across  the  divide,  to  a 
branch  of  the  Cacarica,  called  the  Tiiciilegua,  which  he 
places  at  an  altitude  of  IGO  feet.  He  i^urports  to  have  gone 
some  distance  down  the  Cacarica,  in  all,  two  days'  journey 
from  Paya  village,  and  to  have  returned  in  one  day,  meas- 
uring the  distance  with  a  chain.  He  places  the  summit  level 
of  his  survey  near  the  village  of  Paya  at  178  feet,  which  is 
very  remarkable  for  being  the  very  datum  given  to  liim 
before  he  set  out  as  the  greatest  elevation  that  would  be 
practicable  for  the  enterprise.  It  is  also  singular  that  he 
should  find  this  summit  but  a  short  distance  from  Paya, 
when  he  must  have  known  that  the  head  waters  of  that  river 
were  man}-  miles  distant. 

Seiior  Gorgosa  also  visited,  I  believe,  the  village  of  Paj'a, 
and  the  accounts  he  published  were  sufficiently  flattering  to 
lead  to  the  formation  of  a  company  of  capitalists  in  Paris  fo" 
the  purpose  of  acting  upon  his  reports.  They  sent  Genera. 
Heine,  an  attache  of  the  American  legation  at  Paris,  to  ex- 
amine this  route.  Heine  proceeded  as  far  as  the  mouths  of 
the  Atrato,  but,  not  being  properh*  prepared,  did  not  ascend 
the  river,  and  returned  to  Aspinwall.  The  true  facts  ob- 
tained by  the  expedition  will  show  how  erroneous  were  the 
estimates  of  these  explorei'S,  and  how  much  we  who  had 
believed  in  them  were  deceived. 

INHABITANTS. 

The  population  of  the  region  explored  during  the  past  year 
may  be  divided  into  Colombianos  and  Indians.  The  former 
are  composed  of  whites,  mulattoes,  samboes,  and  negroes. 
The  latter  compose  at  least  five-sixths  of  the  whole,  and  are 
an  athletic  race,  but  lazj^  and  shiftless.  They  are  to  be  found 
in  the  villages  of  Chipigana,  Santa  Maria  del  Real,  Molineca, 
Pinogana,  and  Yavisa  in  Darien,  and  the  small  village  of 
Turbo,  or  Pisisi,  on  the  Gulf  of  Darien.  They  are  princi- 
I)ally  engaged  in  the  production  of  caoutchouc,  in  which  an 
industrious  man  can  easilj'  earn  $100  a  month;  and  as  it  per- 
mits a  free  and  lazy  existence,  it  is  difficult  to  procure  labor- 
ing men  except  at  the  most  exorbitant  rates. 

At  one  time,  no  doubt,  the  whole  of   the  valleys  of  the 


230  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Tiiyra  and  Chucunaqua  were  inhabited  by  the  Darien 
Indians,  but  they  have  disappeared  entire!}'  from  the  former, 
excepting  the  Paya  tribe,  on  the  river  of  that  name.  These 
Indians  are  less  averse  to  strangers  than  anj^  I  had  met  with 
previously,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  their  long  intercourse  with 
the  Spaniards,  of  whom,  however,  they  are  perfectly  inde- 
pendent, and  with  whom  there  are  no  signs  of  amalgamation. 
They  treated  me  with  kindness  when  I  visited  them,  but  were 
sharp  enough  to  avail  themselves  of  our  necessities  in  driving- 
hard  bargains  for  provisions.  They  do  not  number  more 
than  four  hundred. 

On  the  Atlantic  slope,  near  the  Tarena  mouth  of  the  Atrato, 
we  hav'e  the  villages  of  Arpeti,  Cuti,  and  Tanela,  all  under 
the  chief  of  the  latter.  The  Indians  of  these  villages  are  as 
isolated  as  those  of  the  interior,  and  have  all  of  the  latter's 
dislike  to  white  men.  They  have  no  dealings  witli  Europeans; 
their  towns  are  only  approached  through  small  streams  in  the 
marshes  of  the  Atrato,  where  one  is  almost  devoured  by 
mosquitoes,  and  their  only  glimpse  of  the  outer  world  is  when 
thej'  visit  Pisisi  to  trade  for  the  few  wants  thej'  may  require. 
These  Indians  were  described  by  those  of  the  expedition  who 
visited  them  as  the  finest  that  had  been  met  Avith  in  Darien. 
De  Puydt  asserts  to  have  descended  to  the  Tanela  village, 
and  even  beyond;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  their  chief,  Suza-le- 
Lele,  who  was  ver}'  unwilling  that  Lieutenant-Commander 
Schulze  should  explore  their  domain,  told  him  that  he  was 
the  first  white  man  who  had  ever  jienetrated  so  far. 

On  the  Chucunaqua  there  are  now  no  villages  of  Indians 
below  the  Sucubti  River,  which  was  visited  by  the  expedition 
in  1870. 

The  Indians  of  the  Atrato  Valley,  called  Choco,  are  of  a 
much  milder  disposition  than  the  Darien.  They  were  entirely 
subjugated  by  the  Spaniards,  and  under  these  hard  task- 
masters were  almost  depojjulated,  and  lost  their  tribal  organi- 
zation. Here  and  there  families  are  to  be  found  upon  the 
rivers.  They  are  quite  inoffensive,  and  readj^  to  offer  their 
services  as  boatmen  or  guides.  They  are  not  averse  to  labor, 
and  at  Cupica  Baj' I  found  them  tilling  the  ground  by  the 
side  of  the  Spanish  negro,  whom  in  their  present  degraded 
condition  they  consider  a  sujperior  being. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  231 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  the  lower  portion  of  Darien  is  materially 
the  same  as  that  of  the  region  explored  last  year.  Of  the 
two  seasons,  dry  and  wet,  the  former  commences  about  the 
1st  of  January  and  extends  to  the  20tli  of  April.  At  this 
period  the  wind  blows  invariably  from  the  north.  After 
April  there  is  more  or  less  rain  till  the  21st  of  June.  My  own 
experience  would  lead  me  to  believe  that  the  heaviest  rains 
during  this  season  are  in  the  first  three  weeks  of  May,  and 
after  that  pleasant  weather  is  frequent.  July,  though  not  a 
dry  month,  has  but  little  rain.  August  denotes  a  reappear- 
ance of  the  wet  season,  though  there  is  often  much  pleasant 
weather.  September  and  October  present  the  greatest  rain- 
fall; in  November  the  amount  is  less,  though  this  is  the 
month  of  the  most  violent  storms,  accompanied  with  heavy 
rains.  The  rainfall  in  the  interior  is  much  greater  than  on 
the  coast.  While  we  were  having  only  showers  about  the  1st 
of  May,  the  journal  of  the  survej^ors  records  heavy  rain.  As 
to  the  effect  of  the  seasons  upon  the  construction  of  a  canal, 
during  nine  months  of  the  year  there  would  be  no  more  than 
partial  interruption,  and  of  these  five  may  be  considered  as 
dry  months.  During  the  remaining  three — September,  Octo- 
ber, and  November — it  is  not  probable  that  any  work  could 
be  done  except  under  cover.  The  wind  during  the  wet  sea- 
son is  usually  from  the  south  and  west,  with  frequent  calms. 
The  temperatui'e  during  the  dry  season  is  necessaril}^  much 
higher  on  the  Pacific  slope,  and  the  nights  are  often  hot  and 
close. 

SOIL. 

All  through  the  Isthmus  and  valley  of  the  Atrato  the  soil 
is  of  unsurpassed  fertility.  On  the  lower  ground,  subject  to 
overflow,  it  has  been  enriched  by  the  deposit  of  rivers  annu- 
ally brought  down  for  ages,  while  at  higher  elevations  the 
vegetable  decomposition  going  on  in  the  dense  forest  growth 
has  given  it  a  rich,  loamj'  composition.  All  tropical  prod- 
ucts would  flourish  in  profusion,  but  the  ground  is  peculiarlj^ 
adapted  to  the  production  of  the  sugar  cane,  which  grows  to 
an  enormous  size.  Plantains  are  the  staple  food  for  both 
Indians  and  negroes. 


232  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

The  indolence  and  indifference  of  the  inliabitants,  the 
sparse  population,  and  the  enervating  effect  of  the  climate 
upon  Europeans,  seem  to  present  almost  impassable  barriers 
to  its  improvement;  and  unless  acted  upon  by  such  a  pow- 
erful impetus  as  would  be  produced  by  the  construction  of  a 
ship  canal,  it  will  probably  remain  forever  in  all  its  natural, 
wildness. 

FORESTS. 

The  whole  of  Darien  is  covered  with  a  vast  primeval  growth 
from  its  swamps  to  the  top  of  its  highest  peaks.  Many  of 
the  trees  I  am  unacquainted  with,  but  among  them  are  the 
following,  more  or  less  known:  Caoutchouc,  mahoganj', 
ebony,  oak,  cedar,  rosewood,  espave,  quito,  lignum-vitfe, 
ironwood,  besides  numerous  varieties  of  the  palm  family. 

The  forest  trees  support  whole  families  of  parasites,  and 
from  almost  every  branch  hang  festoons  of  vines,  wliich  hide 
the  trees  from  which  they  spring  and  i)resent  a  scene  of  the 
richest  luxuriance. 

The  puma,  jaguar,  tapir,  and  tiger  cat  inhabit  the  forests 
of  Darien,  but,  hidden  by  daj'  in  the  dense  solitudes,  are 
rarelj"  met  >\  it  h.  Many  varieties  of  the  snake  family  abound, 
whose  bite  is  generally  deadly.  The  wild  hog,  or  peccary,  is 
found  in  great  numbers  all  over  the  Isthmus,  and  forms  the 
chief  article  of  meat  for  the  natives.  Monkeys  are  numer- 
ous; also  a  small  species  of  deer,  armadillos,  rabbits,  and 
squirrels.  Parrots  and  parroquets  of  the  most  brilliant 
plumage  are  met  with  everywhere;  also  the  toucan,  carpin- 
tero,  chucara,  and  many  other  varieties  not  familiar.  Wild 
turkeys  are  plentiful  in  the  valley  of  the  Atrato,  and  on  the 
hills  a  beautiful  bird  like  a  pheasant,  called  by  the  natives 
the  currasaAv,  is  sometimes  seen. 

RIVERS. 

The  two  principal  rivei'S  of  the  portion  of  Darien  exj)lored 
the  past  year  are  the  Atrato  and  Tuyra.  The  Atrato,  prob- 
ably the  fourth  largest  river  in  volume  in  South  America, 
rises  in  a  spur  of  the  Antioquian  Range  that  connects  the 
latter  with  the  divide,  or  Cordilleras  of  Darien.  Flowing  on 
a  course  generally  north  for  several  hundred  miles,  it  dis- 
charges itself  through  thirteen  mouths,  of  which  the  principal 


N<)TE8    ON    PANAMA.  283 

are  the  'J'areiia,  Caiideleria,  IJaibocoas,  Coquilo,  Coeo-Grande, 
Uraba,  and  Pichindi,  and  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  Darien. 
The  valley  which  it  drains,  between  the  Antio(iuiaii  Moun- 
tains and  Cordilleras,  extends  from  latitude  5°  20'  north  to 
8°  o'  noi'tli,  and  varies  from  100  to  150  miles  in  width.  Its 
principal  ti'ibutaries  on  the  west  bank  are  the  Cacarica, 
Salaqui,  Truando,  Opogado,  Napipi,  and  IJojaj'a;  on  the 
"east,  the  Tumarador,  Sucio,  Murindo,  and  Muii.  The  Atrato 
was  surveyed  by  Commander  Lull  for  100  miles,  or  as  far  up 
as  the  mouth  of  the  Bojaya.  Its  baiik.s  are  low,  and  for  the 
whole  of  tliis  distance  during-  the  wet  season  are  overflowed 
to  the  depth  of  3  or  4  feet,  from  which  cause  all  the  houses 
are  built  upon  piles.  TJelow  Sucio  there  are  no  habitations 
upon  the  banks,  as  they  are  submerged  ten  months  of  the 
year.  This  river  resembles  the  lower  Mississippi  in  orandeur 
of  propoi-tions,  with  its  long  reaches,  its  width,  varying  from 
1,500  to  2,500  feet,  and  its  great  depth,  often  exceeding  00 
feet.  Its  current  varies  from  2  to  3  knots  per  hour,  which 
would  be  much  increased  in  the  rainy  season  but  for  the 
overflow  of  the  banks,  which  i)ermits  an  escape  of  the  surplus 
water  by  spreading  for  miles  over  the  adjacent  country. 
Trautwine,  in  his  report  upon  this  i-iver,  states  that  there  are 
not  more  than  18  feet  90  miles  from  the  mouth.  It  is  prob- 
able that  his  soundings  were  made  from  a  canoe,  which,  in 
passing  upstream,  Avould  keep  in  slack  and  shallow  water. 

Our  survey  was  carefullj'  made  in  a  rowboat  floating  down 
with  the  current,  and  nowhere  in  the  channel  were  found 
less  than  28  feet.  Over  the  whole  distance  surveyed  no  rocks 
were  met  with,  the  bottom  muddy,  and  from  its  great  depth 
the  river  was  unobstructed  with  snags.  So  well  defined  is  ity 
channel,  and  so  free  from  obstructions,  that  a  single  passage 
up  and  return  would  be  sufficient  to  make  one  acquainted 
with  the  navigation.  The  mouths  of  the  Atrato  are  at  pres- 
ent obstructed  bj'  bars,  upon  which  there  will  never  be  found 
more  than  6  feet  of  water.  They  differ  in  character,  how- 
ever, according  to  their  protection  from  the  sea.  The  Ui'aba 
mouth,  the  one  that  it  is  proposed  to  utilize,  being  farthest 
from  the  .sea,  and  also  protected  by  a  long  sand  spit,  is  fixed 
in  its  nature,  and  the  bar  of  hard  sand.  These  bars,  as  thej'^ 
are  increased  by  fresh  deposits,  are  slowly  extending  out,  and 
break  off  abruptly  from  2  fathoms  into  10.      An  examina- 


234  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

tion  of  the  Uraba  month  showed  that  as  soon  as  the  deposit 
on  each  side  of  the  channel  was  snfficient  to  rise  above  the 
water  and  give  growth  to  water  plants,  the  water  commenced 
to  deepen;  and  where  the  banks  were  of  snflicient  consistency 
to  give  growth  to  mangrove  and  palm,  and  thns  confine  the 
flow  of  the  cnrrent,  a  depth  of  4  or  5  fathoms  would  be 
found.  In  the  improvement  of  the  bar,  I  would  suggest  that 
this  action  of  nature  be  imitated  in  creating  artificial  banks 
by  piling  out  to  deep  water,  and  a  channel  dredged  out, 
which  could  be  accomplished  at  a  moderate  outlay. 

The  Tuyra.— This  river  differs  entirely  in  its  character 
from  the  Atrato.  It  rises  in  the  Pirri  Range,  not  far  from 
the  Pacific  coast,  flows  first  east,  then  gradually  in  a  semi- 
circle to  the  north  as  far  as  the  Paj^a,  and,  taking  about  a 
west-northwesterly  course,  empties  into  the  Gulf  of  San  Mi- 
guel. Above  tide  water,  during  the  dry  season,  its  bed  for 
50  miles  is  filled  with  rapids,  upon  Avhich  there  is  scarce  water 
enough  to  float  a  canoe  to  the  Falls  of  Tapanaca.  Above  the 
falls  it  dwindles  into  a  small  stream.  It  is  about  oOU  feet 
wide  over  most  of  this  distance,  very  crooked,  and  the  marks 
on  the  tref^s  indicate  a  rise  of  I'i  feet  during  the  wet  season. 
Passing  almost  its  entire  course  through  a  hill}"  country", 
through  its  numerous  tributaries  it  pours  out  a  vast  flood  of 
Waaler  during  the  season  of  rains.  Of  its  branches,  the  prin- 
cipal, on  the  left  bank,  are  the  Tucuti,  Pirri,  Arusa,  Cupe, 
Paca,  Piedra,  and  Cana.  On  the  right  bank  it  receives  the 
Chucunaqua  from  the  north,  a  river  of  the  same  size  and 
hardh"  a  tributarv;  the  Yape,  Pucro,  Paya,  and  Cue,  the  lat- 
ter probably  tlie  same  as  known  as  the  Punusa  in  the  old 
Spanish  maps. 

EVAPORATION. 

Experiments  at  Muertos  Island,  Gulf  of  Darien,  continued 
through  the  greater  part  of  the  dry  season,  showed  an  evap- 
oration of  1  inch  in  five  days.  As  tliis  test  was  made  with 
a  very  small  body  of  water  (in  a  wooden  tank  made  for  the 
purpose)  it  is  believed  to  be  the  maximum  amount  for  this 
locality,  and  tliough  a  smaller  quantity  than  generally' 
allowed  for  this  latitude,  yet  when  the  very  moist  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  is  considered  it  is  not  surprising  that  it  is 
not  capable  of  absoi-bing  more. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  235 

HEALTH. 

The  sanitary  condition  of  the  late  expedition  has  been 
fully  equal  to  that  of  1870,  and  the  fact  that  no  mortality  has 
taken  place  from  climatic  causes  is  most  gratifying,  in  the 
face  of  tlie  reports  of  the  unhealthiness  of  this  part  of  the 
continent. 

The  percentage  of  sick  on  both  expeditions  has  not  been 
much  greater  than  upon  the  ordinary  service,  though  officers 
and  men  have  been  constantly  exposed  to  the  full  malarial 
effect  of  the  climate.  The  prevalent  diseases  were  fevers 
(remitient  and  intermittent),  disorders  of  the  digestive 
organs,  and  skin  diseases.  Fevers  did  not  assume  a  danger- 
ous type,  though  very  exhaustive  in  their  effect.  Eczema 
occasioned  much  annoyance,  and  was  difficult  to  heal.  Bites 
from  the  hordes  of  insects  that  infest  The  jungles  and  forests, 
though  not  dangerous,  were  very  j)ainful,  and,  in  causing 
loss  of  sleep,  often  brought  on  fever. 

Malaria,  though  necessarily  active  in  such  a  wet  climate 
as  that  of  the  Isthmus,  does  not,  in  the  uncleared  portions, 
appear  as  poisonous  as  in  manj^  other  portions  of  the  world 
which  have  a  higher  reputation  for  health.  I  attribute  the 
fact  to  the  hilly  nature  of  the  country-  and  great  waterfall, 
by  which  all  vegetable  decomposition  is  quickly  carried  off, 
and  also  that  the  dense  tropical  growth  does  not  permit  the 
action  of  the  sun's  rays. 

To  the  ver}'  stringent  sanitar}'  regulations,  such  as  requir- 
ing flannel  to  be  worn  next  to  the  skin,  or,  when  on  the  sur- 
vey on  shore,  that  every  person  should  put  on  a  dry  flannel 
change  at  right;  the  liberal  use  of  quinine  as  a  prophylactic, 
in  doses  of  1^  grains  every  morning  to  each  person  in  the 
field;  to  the  ample  supply  of  wholesome  food,  at  least  3 
pounds  to  a  man;  to  the  absence  of  intoxicating  drinks;  and 
to  the  but  moderate  indulgence  in  fruits,  may  be  attributed, 
under  Providence,  in  a  great  degree,  the  health  of  the  expedi- 
tion, engaged  as  we  were  in  a  fatiguing  and  laborious  task, 
exposed  alternately  to  the  fierce  rays  of  a  tropical  sun  and 
to  constant  wettings  from  rain  or  work  in  rivers. 

The  experience  of  this  expedition  and  others,  of  the  Pan- 
ama Railroad  Company,  and  of  residents  on  the  Isthmus, 
proves  that  the  climate  is  not  as  unhealthy  as  generally  suj)- 


236  NOTES  oisr  Panama. 

posed,  and  that  it  is  possible  to  reside  here  iiiau}'  years 
without  serious  injury. 

In  the  employment  of  such  a  vast  body  of  men  as  would  be 
required  in  the  construction  of  a  ship  canal,  the  j)reservation 
of  healtli  is  a  subject  of  the  highest  interest,  not  onlj'  on  the 
score  of  humanit3\  but  as  vitally  important  to  the  success  of 
the  enterprise.  It  is  confidently  believed  that  by  comfortably 
constructed  quarters,  with  wliich  shonld  be  connected  appa- 
ratus for  the  quick  drj-iug  of  clothes,  by  rigid  sanitary  regu- 
lations, and  by  a  regular  supply  of  wholesome  food,  a  state 
of  health  may  be  maintained  that  will  compare  favorablj" 
with  newly  opened  districts  in  the  United  States. 

Thongh  the  Indians,  so  far  from  increasing  in  numbers, 
appear  to  be  rather  the  reverse,  yet  the  great  mortality  seems 
to  be  in  childhood,  for  many  of  the  men  attain  a  great  age. 

GEOLOGICAL  FEATURES. 

The  study  of  the  geology  of  those  parts  explored  by  the 
expedition,  in  their  relation  toother  portions  of  the  Isthmus, 
is  very  instructive;  and  attention  is  called  to  the  interesting 
report  of  the  geologist.  Dr.  G.  A.  Maache,  upon  this  subject. 

The  results  of  our  explorations  of  last  year  indicated  that 
the  base  of  the  mountains  forming  the  backbone  of  the 
Isthmus  is  principally  syenite,  which  places  them  in  the 
prim arj^  formation;  while  our  observations,  on  the  present 
expedition,  from  the  valley  of  the  Atrato  and  on  the  lire  of 
the  Panama  Railroad,  would  denote  a  substructure  of  trap 
and  trachyte,  and  of  a  more  recent  creation. 

From  this  we  are  led  to  infer  that  the  central  portion  of 
the  Isthmus  was  of  an  origin  coeval  with  the  continents  of 
North  and  South  America;  that  the  foot  of  these  mountains 
was  washed  by  a  united  ocean,  and  not  until  a  later  period 
were  the  connecting  links  upheaved;  for  the  geological  and 
physical  features  of  the  southern  portion  of  the  Isthmus  are 
very  different  from  the  central,  the  regularity  of  the  Cordil- 
leras losing  itself  in  a  broken  country  of  very  much  less  alti- 
tude, of  which  the  hills  are  principally  of  a  trappean  origin. 

The  extraordinary  depth  of  the  Atrato  for  200  miles  from 
its  mouth,  and  the  very  little  fall  in  this  distance  (40  feet), 
though  surrounded  at  not  great  distances  bj'  high  hills  and 
nuuintains,   indicate  plainly  that   the    whole  valley  of  the 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


237 


Atrato  was  at  one  time  an  estuary  of  the  ocean;  that  bj' a 
later  upheaval  the  continents  were  connected  and  the  oceans 
were  separated,  when  commenced  a  gradual  encroachment 
upon  the  sea  from  the  decomposition  of  the  hillsides  (which 
is  comparatively  very  rapid  in  this  climate),  being  carried 
down  bj^  numerous  streams,  and,  upon  contact  with  another 
force  from  ocean  waves  and  tides,  deposited  upon  the  bot- 
tom. We  see  this  going  on  now  in  the  changing  of  the  delta 
of  the  Atrato,  only  very  much  slower,  because  from  the  shel- 
tered position  tiie  action  of  the  ocean  is  much  less  felt,  and 
the  influence  of  the  many  streams  fiom  the  east  side  of  the 
Gulf  of  Darien  tend  to  carry  the  sediment  of  the  Atrato 
farther  seaward. 

The  geologj'  of  the  Napipi  River  and  Cupica  Bay  is  of 
special  interest,  as  having  been  the  line  selected  that  pre- 
sented the  most  favorable  features  for  the  construction  of  a 
ship  canal.  Here  the  hills  rise  precipitously  from  the  sea, 
and  then  slope  away  gradually  till  the}-  terminate  in  a  plain 
reaching  to  the  Atrato,  with  a  fall  of  about  o  feet  to  a  mile. 
The  formation  of  the  hills  surrounding  Cupica  Bay  and  the 
divide  is  trappean,  and  a  closer  examination  of  its  mineral- 
ogical  properties  would  constitute  them  principally  as  what 
is  known  in  petrography  as  "hornblende  anderite."  Once 
over  the  divide,  we  have  a  stretch  of  some  3  utiles  of  table 
land  interspersed  with  clay  hills  of  a  moderate  height.  After 
descending  into  the  plain,  the  outcroppings  of  rock  become 
rarer  as  one  proceeds,  and  often  so  decomposed  as  to  be  cut 
with  a  knife;  and  near  the  Atrato  a  stratum  of  decaj'ed  leaves 
is  frequently  met  with  below  the  surface,  overlying  red  and 
blue  clay.  The  rock  at  Cupica  Bay,  at  the  falls  of  the  Limon 
River,  and  upon  the  Napipi,  indicates  great  densitj'  and 
hardness;  but  the  question  of  being  self-sustaining  can  only 
be  satisfactorily  ascertained  by  boring. 

No  minerals  were  found  during  these  explorations  between 
the  Atrato  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  though  the  formation  is 
favorable  to  gold,  and  considerable  quantities  of  the  precious 
metal  are  obtained  in  the  rivers  that  rise  in  tlie  Antioquian 
range,  which  is  of  a  similar  formation. 

-  Gold  ornaments  of  ancient  manufacture  have  been  found 
in  the  bed  of  the  Napipi  River,  and  I  have  been  told  by  the 
Indians  that  there  is  gold  in  the  mountains,  though  they 
always  refused  to  give  any  information  in  regard  to  it. 

W.T.CONWAY 

,3t  LIEUT.  6th  INFANTRY 


238  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

A  vei'}'  iiuportaut  discoveiy  of  coal  was  made  in  the  region 
bordering  upon  the  east  side  of  the  Gulf  of  Darien.  an  anal- 
ysis and  report  of  which,  by  Professor  Barker,  of  Yale  Col- 
lege, is  appended  to  this  report. 

The  survey  of  the  Tuyra  developed  the  general  geological 
features  of  the  Xapipi.  Interesting  specimens  of  fossilized 
shells,  embedded  in  rock  and  detached  bowlders,  were  found 
at  various  points  on  the  Tuj^ra,  and  even  on  the  top  of  hills — 
an  additional  proof  that  this  formation  conies  within  the 
later  Tertiary  formation. 

Fossilized  coral  is  found  in  the.  bed  of  the  Chagres,  30 
miles  from  the  sea,  and  at  a  considerable  altitude,  while  at 
the  same  place  will  be  gathered  pel)bles  of  quartz,  jasper, 
agate — all  belonging  to  a  different  jjeriod  than  fossils. 

r^  ^  ^  ^  4:  ^  ^ 

DISCUSSION     OF      PROPOSED     CANAL      ROUTE     VIA     THE 
NAPIPI  AND  DOGUADO  VALLEYS. 

(Report  of  1878.) 

Much  has  already  been  said  of  the  nature  of  the  country, 
and  difficulties  to  be  encountered,  in  the  vallej'  of  the  Napipi 
in  my  previous  report. 

But  as  the  value  of  this  route  depends  so  entirely  upon 
the  capacity  of  ship  navigation  of  the  rivei-  Atrato  up  to  the 
point  we  leave  it  to  cross  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  an  artificial 
cut,  I  will  again  allude  to  it  before  proceeding  to  discuss  the 
general  features  of  the  new  proposed  line. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  Atrato  is  based  upon  a  complete  line 
of  soundings,  run  by  Commander  Lull,  for  the  whole  dis- 
tance, from  the  mouth  of  the  Xapipi  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Atrato,  wlio  made  the  survey  in  his  gig,  taking  soundings 
every  five  minutes.  So  important  is  the  fact  of  the  great 
depth  of  the  Atrato  that  I  append  liis  letter  to  me  on  his 
return,  as  also  one  from  the  officer  who  accompanied  him, 
Lieutenant  Merrill : 

United  States  Ship  Guard,  Fourth  Rate. 
Gidf  of  Darien,  United  States  of  CoIo)nbia,  May  J,  1S71. 
Sir:  I  would  re.spectfiilly  inform  yoii  that,  in  obedience  to  your  order, 
I  have  examined  the  river  Atrato,  from  the  month  of  the  Napipi  down 
to  the  month  of  the  Cacarica.  sounding  ks  rapidly  as  possible,  while 
pulling  gently  with  the  current,  in  the  gig  of  this  ship,  making  a  run- 
ning traverse  at  the  same. 


W.  (.  UUIVWAY 

ht  LIEUT.  6th  INfANIHV 

NOTES    ON   PANAMA.  239 

The  least  water  found  in  the  channel  of  the  river  was  28  feet  although 
the  surface  was  at  least  6  feet  below  high  water;  we  frequently  found 
over  12  fathoms.  There  are  very  few  obstructions,  in  the  shape  of  snags, 
etc.  All  that  we  saw  could  be  cleared  away  in  a  single  day's  work  by 
a  steamer. 

The  channel  follows  the  curves  of  the  shore  so  exactly  that  any  pilot, 
after  once  going  up  or  down  the  river,  could  never  after  make  a  mistake 
with  regard  to  it.    It  is  the  clearest  river  I  have  ever  seen. 

The  river  bottom  is  all  soft  mud;  we  did  not  discover  a  single  rock  or 
stone  the  whole  distance. 

I  beg  to  say  that  I  use  superlative  language  advisedly  in  speaking  of 

this  river,  as  its  advantages  for  navigating  purposes  struck  me  as  being 

so  remarkable  that  I  examined  it  with  great  care. 

I  am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

Edward  P.  Lull, 

Coiiimander. 
Commander  Thos.  O.  Selfridge, 

Commanding  Darien  Exploring  Expedition. 

Marshall,  Mich.,  August  5,  1873, 
Sir:  I  accompanied  Commander  Edward  P.  Lull,  U.  S.  Navy,  on  the 
survey  of  the  Atrato  River,  and  am  confident  that,  after  crossing  the 
bar  at  the  mouth,  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  carrying  26  feet  of  water 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Napipi. 

Vei'y  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

John  P.  Merrill, 
Lieutenant ,  U.  S.  Navy. 
Commander  Thos.  O.  Selfridge, 

U.  S.  Navy,  commanding  DaiHen  Expedition. 

No  one  who  lias  visited  this  river  and  floated  niDou  its  sur- 
face as  I  have  can  but  be  struck  with  the  grandeur  of  this 
miglity  flow  of  water  and  can  but  feel  that  it  has  been 
designed  by  the  Almighty  to  bear  a  more  important  part  in 
the  great  economy  of  the  world's  progress  than  the  carrying 
of  the  little  crafts  which  are  now  its  sole  navigators. 

That  the  Atrato  is  entirely  and  wholly  capable  of  ship 
navigation  to  the  Napipi  is  a  fact  that  no  longer  admits  of 
an}'  doubt. 

BAR  OR  OBSTRUCTION  AT  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  ATRATO. 

The  Atrato  spreads  itself  out  into  a  delta  at  least  20  miles 
in  length,  and  empties  by  13  mouths  into  the  sea. 

The  great  difficult}^  that  has  been  met  in  the  permanent 

improvement  of  the  mouths  of  all  the  rivers  that  empty  into 

the  Gulf  of  Mexico  is  the  shifting  character  of  the  sands, 

caused  by  the  action  of  the  sea  swell,  and  which  requires  the 

12312—03 16 


240  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

constant  use  of  the  dredge,  as  at  the  mouth  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, where  the  storm  of  a  single  night  may  open  a  channel 
entirely  different  from  the  one  in  use.  While  nearly  all  the 
mouths  of  the  Ati'ato  are  exposed  to  this  same  influence 
that  one  known  as  the  Uraba  is  an  exception,  as  it  empties 
into  an  almost  land-locked  harbor,  the  surface  of  which  is 
hardly  ruffled.  This  fact  gives  the  character  of  its  bar  a 
permanence  which  none  of  the  others  possess  in  the  same 
degree.  Specimens  of  boring  at  a  depth  of  18  feet  below  the 
surface  indicate  that  it  is  composed  entirely  of  black  and 
white  sand  whose  geological  prof)erties  are  the  same  as  the 
hills  from  which  the  tributaries  of  the  Atrato  flow.  I  was 
also  struck  by  the  fact  that  as  soon  as  we  crossed  the  bar  to 
a  point  where  the  overflow  was  restrained  by  the  growth  of 
plants,  then  did  the  depth  commence  to  increase,  and  as  soon 
as  the  flow  was  confined  by  banks  compact  enough  to  sustain 
vegetation,  the  water  at  once  deepened  to  five  fathoms. 
This  action  of  nature  to  mj^  mind  was  conclusive  proof  that 
if  the  current  was  confined  bj^  artificial  banks  and  the  in- 
closed distance  dredged  to  the  required  depth  there  would 
be  a  permanent  channel  requiring  no  further  outlay  to  keei3 
open. 

From  the  ten-fathom  line  to  a  depth  of  five  fathoms  in  the 
Uraba  Branch  it  is  about  2,500  feet.  There  would  be  re- 
quired for  a  double  row  of  piling  the  whole  of  this  distance 
10,000  trees  30  feet  long  and  1  foot  or  more  in  diameter. 
Trees  of  the  varietj^  known  as  the  cedron,  guallaca,  or 
truntago,  chacajo,  and  insive  can  all  be  cut  on  or  near  the 
Atrato  and  its  tributaries.  These  varieties  are  all  hard  and 
very  durable,  of  a  specific  gravity  less  than  water,  and  could 
be  therefore  floated  to  the  desired  spot  and  driven  at  a  cost 
not  exceeding  15  per  pile. 

For  a  channel  300  feet  wide  and  a  depth  of  2(3  feet  of  water, 
there  would  require  to  be  removed  0-10,000  cubic  yards  of 
material.  The  expense,  therefore,  of  the  required  improve- 
ment at  the  mouth  of  tlie  Atrato  would  be: 

10,000  piles,  $5  each §50,000 

640, 100  cubic  yards  material.  50  cents  per  cubic  yard 320, 000 

370. 000 
25  per  cent  increase  for  contingencies 92, 500 

Total 462.500 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  241 

POISON  OF  THE  INDIAN  ARROWS. 

(Survey  of  18T0.) 

We  inquired  of  all  the  Indians,  both  men  and  boys,  at  Cale- 
donia Bay  and  at  San  Bias  for  the  "curari"  or  "urari"  poison, 
so  often  mentioned,  but  none  of  them  appeared  to  have  ever 
heard  the  name.  They  admitted  that  they  nsed  poison  on 
their  arrows,  and  after  numerous  attempts  they  brought  us 
what  they  represented  to  be  the  bona  fide  poison.  It  was  a 
watery  liquid  with  a  white  precipitate  at  the  bottom,  which 
became  milky  by  shaking.  They,  by  signs,  gave  us  to  under- 
stand that  when  it  was  intended  to  be  particular!}-  virulent  it 
was  necessar}'  to  expose  it  for  three  days  in  the  sun,  then 
mixed  with  a  paste  before  applying  it  to  tlie  ari-ows.  It 
turned  out  to  be  nothing  but  the  juice  of  the  manzanillo  del 
playa.  So,  if  this  is  their  chief  poison,  and  is  the  same  as  the 
"curari,"  it  is  not  so  much  to  l)e  dreaded.  Its  effect  appears 
to  be  different  on  different  constitutions;  on  some,  the  juice 
will  raise  blisters,  and  the  smoke  of  the  burning  wood  will 
attack  the  eyes,  while  others  experience  no  harm.  The 
natives  wash  the  injured  parts  in  salt  water,  which  is  readilj^ 
obtained,  as  the  tree,  fortunately,  only  flourishes  near  the 
sea  coast.  The  young  leaves  and  fruit  steeped  in  milk  are 
also  said  to  be  a  perfect  antidote.  That  which  we  have  is 
extremely  volatile,  giving  off  a  strong  smell  of  sulphureted 
hydrogen  and  other  smells  which  we  could  not  detect.  From 
its  volatile  nature  alone  we  would  infer  that  ii  was  only  to  be 
dreaded  while  fresh,  although  the  Indians  maintain  that 
exposure  to  the  sun  for  three  days  causes  it  to  regain  all  its 
strength.  We  tried  some  of  it  on  our  hands  when  first 
obtained,  and  it  had  no  effect  beyond  the  stinging  produced 
by  acid;  we  also  have  made  several  experiments  on  rats  and 
cats  since  our  return.  The  animals  appeared  to  grow  sick 
after  ten  minutes,  incling  to  cough  or  vomit,  l)ut  in  the  course 
of  an  hour  all  unpleasant  effects  appeared  to  have  passed 
away  and  they  were  as  well  as  ever. 


242  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

MEDICAL  REPORT  OF  THE  DARIEN  EXPEDITION,  BY 
LINNiEUS  FUSSELL,  ACTING  PASSED  ASSISTANT 
SURGEON. 

(Survey  of  1870.) 

Philadelphia,  August  3o,  1671. 

Sir:  In  tliis  report  the  facts  recorded  will  be  for  the  most 
part  such  as  fell  under  my  own  observation.  I  shall,  how- 
ever, bring  to  bear  on  the  subject  information  received  from 
other  sources,  from  the  surgeons  of  the  Resaca  and  Guard, 
and  of  the  Panama  Railroad  Company,  from  books,  period- 
icals, etc. 

My  services  upon  the  Darien  expedition  lasted  from 
December  3,  1870,  to  June  27,  1871.  During  that  time  I  had 
medical  charge  of  a  surveying  j)arty  for  one  hundred  days, 
from  February  22  to  June  3,  1871,  this  service  being  a  con- 
tinued one  in  the  wildest  portion  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien. 

The  following  is  a  summary  of  the  amount  of  sickness, 
etc.,  during  that  time: 

Number  of  men  in  party 34 

Admission  to  sick  list ■-  41 

Niimber  of  sick  clays 133 

Average  time  sick,  days 3 

Daily  average -  -       IxVo 

Daily  percentage 5 

These  numbers  ma}-  appear  large;  they  are  realh^  the  re- 
verse, for  this  statement  includes  every  case,  medical  or  sur- 
gical, excused  from  duty  from  any  cause  however  slight.  No 
deaths  occurred;  no  cases  became  chronic;  no  severe  form  of 
disease  existed  at  anytime  during  the  progress  of  the  survej^ 
These  observations  apply  not  only  to  the  partj^  which  I  accom- 
panied in  the  woods,  but  to  the  whole  expedition,  and  for  the 
whole  time. 

Sevei'al  other  surveying  parties  were  on  other  parts  of  the 
isthmus,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  officers  and  crews  of  the 
Resaca  and  Guard  had  extra  work  to  do  on  hydrographic  and 
other  duty  connected  with  the  survey.  All  were  exposed  to 
the  direct  raj^s  of  the  burning  sun,  to  the  poison  of  malaria, 
or  both.  With  the  whole  command  the  same  sanitary  pre- 
cautions were  taken  (which  will  be  referred  to  hereafter), 
and  with  about  equally  good  results. 

^Malarial  fevers  (intermittent  and  remittent)  formed  the 
greater  part  of  the  cases,  twenty-one  of  the  admissions  out  of 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  243 

forty-one  being  cases  of  fever.  Most  of  the  other  affections 
met  with  showed  a  distinct  malarial  impression,  and  all  wore 
benefited  by  the  treatment  proper  to  cases  of  fever. 

Manj-  canses  cooperated  to  prodnce  cases  of  sickness,  the 
first  and  most  important  one  being  the  poison  of  malaria,  to 
which  we  were  constantl}'  exposed.  Many  different  opinions 
are  held  as  to  the  nature  of  this  peculiar  poison,  to  none  of 
which  I  need  allude.  All  agree  that  for  its  i3roduction,  vege- 
table decomposition,  favored  by  heat  and  moisture,  is  neces- 
sary; that  this  decomposition  is  most  active  when  there  is 
no  more  moisture  than  is  necessary  for  that  purpose.  Un- 
commonly rainy  seasons,  followed  by  unusually  dry  ones,  are 
very  favorable  to  its  development,  as  is  ever}^  change  by 
which  a  perpetual  alteration  of  the  water  level  is  occasioned. 

These  conditions  were  presenti  durina-  the  whole  time  of 
our  trip,  most  markedly  so  at  the  commencement  and  toward 
tlie  end  of  our  survey.  At  the  commencement  the  rainy  sea- 
son had  ended,  but  the  water  which  covers  tJie  lowei-  portions 
of  the  country  during  this  period  had  not  yet  had  time  to 
descend  to  its  lowest  point,  and  while  we  were  ascending  the 
river  Cue  the  water  was  gradually  falling,  exposing  masses 
of  vegetable  matter  to  decaj',  and  constantl}^  adding  to  the 
amount  of  malaria  everywhere  present.  During  the  last 
month  our  survey  took  us  over  a  very  rough  country,  which, 
though  generally  of  the  kind  which  a  late  author  speaks  of 
as  "very  active  in  the  evolution  of  malaria,"  ("such  as  are 
traversed  by  i)ercolating  streams  or  canals  in  wooded  disti-icts, 
termed  jungles,'.')  was  composed  of  a  succession  of  hills  and 
vallej'S  extending  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Paj^a  (empty- 
ing into  the  Tuyra)  to  the  town  of  Pinogana,  a  village  some 
oO  miles  farther  down.  The  weather  was  also  such  as  to 
favor  the  production  of  malaria — rain  for  one  or  two  days, 
followed  by  hot,  dry  weather  for  a  corresponding  period. 
Other  causes  which  had  their  influence  in  predisposing  to 
disease  ma}'  be  merely  alluded  to;  the  fact  of  being  compelled 
on  many  occasions  to  wear  wet  clothing,  not  only  during  the 
day,  but  at  night,  for,  although  ordinarily  great  care  was 
taken  to  have  the  men  put  on  dry  clothes  on  finishing  their 
work,  it  would  often  be  impossible  to  keep  dry  owing  to  very 
heavy  rains  and  imperfect  shelter  inseparable  from  such  work 
in  a  perfect  wilderness.  The  effects  from  bites  from  hordes 
of  various  kinds  of  insects,  etc.,  may  be  alluded  to,  not  sim- 


244  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

ply  from  their  local  effects  which  were  sometimes  severe,  but 
from  the  loss  of  sleep  occasioned  by  this  persistent  annoy- 
ance. In  this  connection  the  bites  of  vampire  bats  should  be 
referred  to,  as  the  stories  toid  of  them  are  bj^  many  deemed 
rather  apocryphal.  We  were  troubled  with  them  more  or 
less  during  the  whole  time  we  were  out,  but  ordinarily  they 
did  not  prove  a  serious  annoyance;  toward  the  latter  part  of 
our  trip,  however,  some  one  was  bitten  almost  every  night; 
one  night,  the  13th  of  May,  nine  men  were  bitten.  The  men 
were  rarely  awakened  by  the  bites,  which,  however,  bled 
freely,  suffici(Mit  blood  l)eing  usually  lost  to  saturate  the 
clothing,  and  to  show  its  effects  very  perceptibly  in  the  loss 
of  color  and  general  feeling  of  weakness  experienced. 

1  have  now  to  consider  the  reasons  which,  notwithstanding 
the  various  predisposing  causes  to  disease,  led  to  the  general 
continuance  in  health  of  the  various  members  of  the  expedi- 
tion. I  would  mention  first,  the  fresh  and  most  excellent 
water  which  we  always  found  without  difficulty;  second, 
having  regular  hours  for  meals,  and  the  good  food  furnished, 
it  being  of  better  quality  and  of  larger  quantity  than  that 
furnished  to  any  armj^  or  navy  in  the  world,  amounting  to 
53  ounces  (3^%  pounds)  of  solid  food  per  diem  for  each  man; 
third,  the  total  absence  of  all  causes  of  excitement;  fourth, 
the  absence  of  all  kinds  of  intoxicating  liquors;  the  care 
taken  to  have  each  one  in  the  party  wear  flannel  next  the 
skin.  The  good  influences  to  be  expected,  «  priori,  from 
these  causes  are  so  evident  that  it  will  be  needless  to  dwell 
upon  them.  As  to  the  prophylactic  use  of  quinine,  some 
words  will  be  necessary.  With  us  the  suliDhate  of  quinia 
was  used  regularly  from  the  time  of  starting  out  and  contin- 
ued during  the  whole  period,  with  the  exception  of  some 
three  or  four  days.  Before  that  time  we  had  had  but  three 
cases  of  fever,  all  light  attacks.  At  the  end  of  the  fourth 
day  of  ihe  time  in  Avhich  the  use  of  quinine  was  omitted,  three 
men  were  attacked  with  the  fever  and  on  tlie  following  day 
three  more.  These  six  cases  were  in  every  respect  the  most 
serious  ones  I  had  to  treat  dui-ing  the  whole  trij),  though  even 
they  readily  yielded  in  a  few  days  to  the  free  use  of  quinine. 
When  these  men  were  taken  sick  we  were  not  exposed  to  a 
greater  amount  of  malaria  than  before.  The  good  effects  of 
the  daily  use  of  quinine  were  so  marked  as  to  be  readily  per- 
ceived by  even  the  sailors  and  macheteros  of  the  party,  witli 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  245 

whom  at  first  great  diflficiilty  was  experienced  in  getting  them 
to  take  the  medicine.  Afterwards,  however,  they  never 
neglected  to  come  for  it  when  serv^ed  out  in  the  morning,  and 
used  freciuentlj'  to  ask  at  other  times  for  extra  doses.  It  was 
given  usually  immediatel}^  before  breakfast,  about  half  the 
time  being  administered  in  solution  in  whisk}',  four  grains  to 
the  ounce  for  each  dose.  Occasionally,  after  extra  exposure 
or  an  unusually  hard  daj^'s  work,  a  dose  would  be  given  in 
the  evening.  During  a  portion  of  the  time  it  Avas  given 
suspended  in  clear,  cold  coffee,  a  method  which  masks  most 
effectually  the  peculiar  bitterness  of  the  remedj'^;  but  I  pre- 
fer, however,  for  small  doses,  the  solution  in  whisky,  the 
small  amount  of  the  latter  i)i  each  dose  being  in  itself  verj^ 
beneficial. 

Quinine,  as  a  prophylatic  against  fever,  has  long  been 
used,  and  its  good  effects  noted  l)y  all  who  have  had  experi- 
ence in  its  use.  I  shall  introduce  here  two  quotations  from 
writers  upon  the  isthmus:  "In  1855  the  use  of  quinine 
enabled  the  Panama  Line  of  steamers  to  continue  their 
service  during  the  sickly  season,  and  lias  ever  since  been 
found  to  reduce  the  number  of  sick  in  the  service  to  a  mere 
fraction  of  its  former  amount,  while  it  preserved  from  disease 
in  a  remarkable  manner  the  officers  and  dependents  of  the 
railroad  companj^  on  the  isthmus."  Dr.  I.  K.  Merrill,  sur- 
geon of  a  mining  and  exploring  party  on  the  isthmus,  states 
that  "for  more  than  two  years  the  party  enjoj'ed  an  almost 
complete  immunity  from  miasmatic  disease  under  the  sys- 
tematic use  of  quinine. 

The  proper  mode  of  giving  quinine  in  cases  of  fever  is  a 
question  uj)on  which  there  has  been  much  discussion,  the 
principal  difference  of  opinion  being  whether  it  should  be 
given  in  one  or  at  most  two  large  doses  or  in  small  doses 
frequently  repeated.  My  experience,  which  is  in  conformity 
with  that  of  the  surgeons  of  the  Panama  Railroad  Company 
and  that  of  a  majority  of  the  profession,  is  tlTat  one  large 
dose — 15  to  25  grains — should  be  given  as  early  as  possible, 
either  as  soon  as  the  paroxysm  has  subsided  or,  if  a  recur- 
rence of  the  attack  is  anticipated,  in  a  short  time,  even  at 
the  commencement  of  the  sweating  stage,  and  with  most 
excellent  results. 

It  may  be  noted  as  a  fact  of  importance  that  the  antifebrile 
influence  of  quinine  does  not  coincide  with  its  physiological 


246  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

effects,  wliicli  are  manifested  almost  immediately  aud  sub- 
side in  from  six  to  eight  hours.  It  is  certain  that  the  anti- 
febrile effects  are  manifested 'at  a  later  period. 

A  word  as  to  the  manner  of  administration  of  (luinine  in 
large  doses.  Pills  are  readil}^  taken  by  many,  but  they  soon 
become  hard  and  insoluble.  The  solution  with  sulphuric  acid 
is  undoubtedl}'  the  form  in  which  it  is  most  readily  intro- 
duced into  the  system,  but  the  taste  is  to  many  so  unpleasant 
as  to  prove  a  matter  of  some  importance  in  causing  nausea 
and  vomiting,  which  are  easilj'  produced  in  these  fevers.  I 
usually  give  it  suspended  in  clear  cold  coffee,  a  mixture  which 
a  noted  author  says  "produces  a  precipitate  of  the  insoluble 
tannate  of  quinia,  which  is  probably  decomposed  but  slowly 
in  the  system."  In  every  case,  however,  I  found  the  physio- 
logical effects  to  be  produced  in  about  the  same  time  as  when 
given  in  the  solution  with  aromatic  sulphuric  acid,  and  its 
curative  effects  were  certainly  as  well  marked  as  could  be 
desired.  When  there  is  hepatic  congestion  the  administra- 
tion of  calomel  is  usually  called  for  in  connection  with  the  use 
of  quinine.  Opium  is  in  many  cases  a  useful  adjunct.  One 
point  more  as  to  treatment,  aud  that  is  to  put  in  my  word 
against  the  necessity  of  any  "preparation  of  the  s^^stem  "  for 
the  use  of  quinine  by  the  use  of  purgatives,  emetics,  or  both, 
as  recommended  by  many.  It  seems  to  me  scarcely  ever 
necessary  and  often  absolutely'  hurtful,  as  valuable  time  is 
often  thereb}"  lost,  the  natural  tendency  of  the  disease  itself 
being  sufficiently  exhausting  without  adding  to  it  b}'  such 
unnecessarj"  drains  upon  the  system. 

Whether  the  system  can  become  even  in  a  measure  accli- 
mated to  the  po  so  malaria  is  a  question  which  seems 
to  me  should  be  decided  in  the  negative,  but  upon  this 
point  "doctors  disagree."  Professor  Aitken  says,  "It  is  now 
an  established  fact  tliat  no  one  can  be  acclimated  so  as  to 
withstand  the  influence  of  malaria."  Dr.  Stephen  Rogers 
says,  "  Gradiml  acclimation  diminishes  the  danger  of  being 
attacked  by  the  more  violent  forms  of  miasmic  disease." 

Upon  the  diseases  other  than  malarial  met  with  little  need 
be  said.  We  were  troubled  with  various  forms  of  skin  affec- 
tions, which  I  here  only  allude  to  to  note  the  good  effects  of 
carbolic  acid,  which  was  used  in  solution,  one  part  of  the  acid 
to  forty  of  water,  and  applied  in  almost  every  case.     Its  use 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  247 

was  mostly  followed  by  immediate  relief  of  itching,  and  a  cure 
was  generally  accomplished  in  a  fcAv  days. 

Is  the  climate  of  the  Isthmus  a  very  unhealth}'  one  or  not  ? 
This  is  a  question  about  which  there  is  a  wonderful  diversitj' 
of  opinion.  There  seems  to  be  a  very  widespread  notion  that 
it  is  not  only  very  unhealthy,  but  one  of  the  most  pestilential 
places  to  be  found,  and  thus  most  writers  who  have  men- 
tioned the  climate  speak  of  it.  Residents  of  the  Isthmus,  on 
the  other  hand,  including  the  different  medical  men  there, 
are  unanimous  in  their  assertions  tliat  it  is  not  unhealthy. 
The\'  maintain  that  the}'  have  fewer  diseases  on  the  Isthmus, 
and  even  proportionally  fewer  cases  of  malarial  fever,  than 
are  to  be  met  with  in  various  portions  of  the  United  States, 
and  not  only  fewer  cases,  but  cases  of  less  dangerous  type. 
It  would  be  uncandid  not  to  mention  that  yellow  fever  has  at 
various  times  been  prevalent  on  the  Isthmus,  and  that  when 
met  with  it  has  occurred  as  an  epidemic  of  severe  type;  dur- 
ing the  last  one  (which  occurred  in  1868)  from  75  to  80  per 
cent  of  those  attacked  succumbed  to  the  violence  of  the  dis- 
ease. From  as  extended  an  observation  of  the  country  itself 
as  I  could  make,  from  infoimation  derived  f i-om  the  statistics 
for  the  last  three  years  of  the  medical  service  of  the  Panama 
Railroad  Companj",  and  from  conversations  with  different 
medical  men  there  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  the  state- 
ments of  the  residents  of  the  Isthmus  as  to  their  climate  are  sub- 
stantially correct,  as  far  at  least  as  the  towns  of  Panama  and 
Aspinwall  are  concerned. 

It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  malarial  fevers  are 
not  usually  met  with  in  cities,  and  that  the  use  of  quinine  as 
a  prophylactic  is  there  largely  resorted  to.  In  the  smaller 
native  villages,  Avhere  this  is  not  the  case,  fever  of  a  violent 
t\"pe  is  very  common,  deaths  occurring  frequenth".  The  con- 
clusion, therefore,  seems  to  me  evident  that  malaria  is  every- 
where present  on  the  Isthmus,  less  so  in  the  cities,  but  that 
its  ill  effects  can  to  a  great  extent  be  prevented  by  the  use  of 
small  daily  doses  of  quinine,  with  the  observance  of  various 
hj'gienic  rules,  the  use  of  flannel  next  the  skin,  the  avoidance 
of  the  use  of  intoxicating  drinks,  and  of  exposure  to  the  open 
air  during  the  morning  and  evening,  being  careful  to  avoid 
exposure  after  extreme  fatigue  from  any  cause.  AVith  this 
care  I  am  satisfied  a  long  time  may  be  sjjent  on  the  Isthmus 


248  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

with  bat  little  detriment  to  health;  without  such  preeaiiliou, 
however,  the  effects  of  the  climate  are  speedily  shown,  being 
first  manifested  upon  the  nervous  system,  langor,  lethargy, 
loss  of  appetite  being  almost  immediate  results,  fever  and 
disease  of  the  digestive  organs  following  surelj^  in  due  course 
of  time.  To  conclude,  it  seems  to  me  that  flie  most  practical 
point  of  this  inquir}^  is,  whether  in  case  of  a  ship  canal  being 
built  across  the  Isthmus  passengers  would  be  exposed  in 
transifu  to  malarial  diseases'?  In  view  of  the  facts  already 
noted,  this  seems  to  admit,  without  further  argument,  of  a 
readv  answer  in  the  negative. 


ISTHMIAN  CANAL  COMMISSION— THE  REPORT  OF  THE  DARIEN  SUR- 
VEY. EASTERN  DIVISION,  1899-1900— BOYD  EHLE,  PRINCIPAL  AS- 
SISTANT ENGINEER. 


ENGINEER  EHLE'S  REPORT. 

The  Caledonia  (hpres.sion. — Rio  Caledonia  empties  into  the 
bay  ill  front  of  its  main  entrance  from  the  sea,  where  there  is 
least  protection  froni  the  surf  caused  by  the  northerl}-  trade 
winds.  From  the  shore,  and  perhaps  half  a  mile  inland,  the 
formation  is  coralline,  slightly  covered  by  the  debris  of  the 
river.  At  a  point  about  half  a  mile  inland  the  valley  becomes 
very  decided,  with  a  general  width  of  about  1,000  feet,  this 
width  continuing  to  the  "forks,"  at  about  H  miles  from  the 
river's  mouth.  The  river  here  divides  into  two  branches  of 
nearly  equal  volume.  The  one  coming  from  the  southeast 
rises  in  hign  hills,  and  its  valley — a  veritable  canj^on — is 
broken  by  manj'^  cascades  filled  with  huge  bowlders.  The 
trend  of  the  valley  is  somewhat  parallel  to  the  divide,  and 
offers  no  evident  chance  for  an  economical  canal  location. 
This  river  is  probal)ly  the  one  that  caused  Gisborne's  error. 
The  other  branch  of  the  main  river  lies  in  a  southwesterly 
direction — nearly  at  right  angles  to  the  divide — with  a  wide 
valley  nearly  similar  to  the  main  river  for  about  a  mile 
above  the  "forks,"  where  it  reaches  the  foot  of  the  divide. 
There  is  a  short,  steep  ascent  in  less  than  1,000  feet  from  the 
creek  bed  to  the  divide's  lowest  point — 083  feet  elevation — 
and  then  comes  the  gentle  incline  of  the  Pacific  drainage. 

H<  ^  :{:  ^  ^  ^  ^ 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  249 

The  AgJasenKjiia  (Taps. — Tlie  Rio  Aglaseniqiia  empties  into 
Caledonia  Baj'  aljout  a  mile  northwest  of  the  Rio  Caledonia, 
and  is  of  smaller  size.  The  general  trend  of  the  valley  is  east 
and  west.  Its  watershed  was  fnlly  developed  by  the  surveys 
of  party  No.  1,  showing  that  the  depression  made  by  its 
headwaters  in  the  divide  aiie  at  greater  altitude  than  at  the 
Rio  Caledonia;  also  that  the  depressions  have  greater  alti- 
tudes as  the}'  are  farther  away  from  that  gap.  The  first  two 
saddles  are  about  750  feet  elevation,  the  next  about  815  feet, 
then  one  over  1,000  feet,  etc. 

******* 

The  Carrefo  Gap. — As  this  depression  appears  very  low 
from  the  sea,  a  detailed  examination  of  this  vicinity  was 
made,  but  this  developed  no  advantages  over  the  Caledonia 
Gap.  Carreto  Bay  is  well  protected  and  has  sufficient  depth. 
The  valley  of  the  Rio  Carreto  is  quite  wide  for  several  miles 
and  then  narrows  to  a  rocky  gorge  that  offers  small  chances 
for  a  canal  location.  The  ascent  from  the  river  to  the  divide, 
with  its  least  elevation  815  feet,  is  very  steep;  but  then  there 
is  a  flat  slope  to  the  Rio  Chucunaqua.  There  is  greater 
width  of  the  Isthmus  than  at  Caledonia  Gap. 

The  Sassardl  Gap. — A  view  of  this  depression  from  the  sea 
suggests  better  possibilities  than  are  realized  after  a  detailed 
investigation.  The  Rio  Sassardi  enters  Caledonia  Bay  in  its 
northerly  part,  opposite  a  channel  out  to  sea.  There  is  a 
coastal  plain  over  2  miles  from  the  beach  which  can  be 
crossed  in  any  direction  with  a  canal  line  with  but  light  work. 
Then  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Sassardi  is  badly  broken  by  two 
interlocking  spurs,  which  can  not  be  passed  by  the  easy 
curves  necessary  for  a  canal.  The  valley  beyond  this  point 
is  favorable  for  about  a  mile,  and  then  its  tortuous  course 
renders  it  unfavorable  for  canal  purposes.  From  the  river 
the  Atlantic  side  of  the  continental  divide  is  very  steep. 
The  least  elevation  in  the  depression  is  1,098  feet,  and  from 
this  point  there  is  a  steep  descent  to  the  Rio  Morti.  There 
is  a  clear  view  down  this  valley;  and  the  Chucunaqua-Sabana 
divide  appears  as  a  flat,  and  beyond  this  was  a  low  divide, 
probably  in  front  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  On  a  projected  canal 
line  through  the  Rio  Sassardi  and  Rio  Morti  valleys,  and 
crossing  the  low  dixide  to  the  Rio  Sabana,  there  would  be  a 
very  short  distance  between  tide  water — probably  the  shortest 
distance  on  the  continent. 

*  *  *  *  *  *  * 


250  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

San  Bias  depression. — A  detailed  examination  of  the  region 
of  possible  feasibility  for  a  canal  was  made  extending  along 
the  divide  between  the  high  hills.  The  point  of  least  eleva- 
tion, 9oG  feet,  is  at  the  headwaters  of  the  most  easterly 
branch  of  the  Rio  Carti.  There  are  two  other  well-defined 
points  of  low  elevations,  one  on  either  side  of  this  low  Carti 
pass.  The  one  at  an  elevation  of  994  feet,  made  by  the 
headwaters  of  the  Rio  Samgandi,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio 
Mandinga;  the  other  at  an  elevation  of  1,070  feet,  made  by  a 
branch  of  the  Rio  Carti.  The  narrow  tortuons  valleys  of 
these  streams  offer  serious,  if  not  prohibitive,  difficulties  to 
an}'  canal  scheme. 

:^  ^  ^  ^  ^  ^  ^ 

Divide  and  Cliagres  Valley  reconnaissance. — This  survey, 
to  prove  the  existence  or  nonexistence  of  a  low  gap  between 
San  Bias  and  Culebra,  and  incidentally  developed  ijortion  of 
the  Rio  Chagres  watershed  for  hydrological  studies,  has  given 
what  seems  to  be  conclusive  data.  The  divide  is  everywhere 
at  a  height  greater  than  at  Culebra  or  the  San  Bias  gaps. 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS. 
^  ■^  ^  ^  ^  9f  ^ 

It  is  curious  to  note  how  the  animal  trails  followed  the 
valleys  and  crest  of  ridges  on  the  easiest  lines  of  progress. 
The  Indians  in  former  days  decided  for  themselves  their 
lines  of  transisthmian  communication  Avith  least  work  to 
their  phj^sical  energies,  in  so  successful  a  way  that  they  were 
adopted  by  the  conquering  Spaniards.  The  tendency  of 
primitive  people  is  toward  water  communication  as  much  as 
possible.  This  did  not,  however,  lead  the  Indians  astray  on 
the  Isthmus  for  they  gave  to  the  Spaniards  the  trails  across 
the  divide  at  Carreto,  Caledonia,  and  Sassardi,  and  these 
are  used  to  this  daj'. 

The  routes  via  the  Rio  Atrato  received  no  favor  from  the 
early  Spaniards  or  their  followers,  yet  on  these  originated 
the  supposed  "mystery  of  straits,"  and  it  can  not  be  doubted 
that  canoes  and  boats  have  been  passed  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Pacific.  This  manner  of  communication  is  merely  a 
curiosity  without  any  value  for  the  demands  of  the  present. 
Balboa's  expedition  from  Caledonia  Bay  to  San  Miguel  Bay 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  251 

constituted  the  first  recorded  interoceanic  survey  of  a  route 
that  has  retained  its  fascination  with  the  present  generation 
of  engineers.  The  Panama  route  was  of  a  later  date,  the 
communication  being  then  with  Portobello  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  for  which  a  paved  highway  was  constructed.  With 
the  coming  of  the  Spaniards  began  the  collection  of  data 
which  at  the  i^resent  time  offers  much  to  the  engineer  stu- 
dent. Our  efforts  have  added  to  these  records  extensive 
detail  data  regarding  the  more  evident  portion  of  the  region 
of  i^robable  canal  feasibility — referring  to  the  vicinitj^  of  San 
Bias  and  of  Caledonia. 

The  divide  lies  very  close  to  the  Atlantic  coast  all  the  way 
from  Mandinga  to  Cape  Tiburon  and  then,  rising  consider- 
ably' in  elevation,  crosses  in  a  southwesterly  direction  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean. 


INCIDENTAL. 

The  Isthmus  of  Darien  extends  from  near  San  Bias  to  the 
Rio  Atrato  Valle.y,  lying  almost  wholly  in  the  province  of 
Panama,  Republic  of  Colombia;  a  narrow  strip  along  the 
Gulf  of  San  Bias  is  part  of  the  province  of  Colon.  In  our 
field  of  operation  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  divide  the  coun- 
tr}^  was  much  broken  up  by  a  complex  network  of  spurs. 
The  Avatershed  is  verj'  limited  and  there  are  no  streams 
worthy  of  the  name  of  river.  Part  of  the  narrow  coastal 
plain  is  coralline  in  structure.  A  thick  forest,  abundantly 
tangled  with  vines,  covers  the  whole  surface  of  the  countr}^ 
and  is  of  such  rapid  growth  that  it  easily  holds  in  check  the 
feeble  efforts  of  the  Indians  at  cultivation.  The  soil  is,  in 
general,  a  reddish  clay  overh'ing  massive  rock  of  volcanic 
origin,  Avhich  can  be  seen  exposed  in  the  creeks.  These  rocks, 
of  an  eruptive  character,  are  usuall}^  known  as  "trap,"  and 
for  our  i)urpose  it  is  not  necessary  to  go  into  the  complex 
geologic  or  mineralogic  terms.  It  is  very  probable  that  the 
rock  could  be  easily  excavated  by  machines,  but  would  be  of 
little  value  for  structural  purpose  on  account  of  its  tendency 
to  disintegrate  OTi  exposure  to  the  air.  Syenite,  granite,  and 
sandstone  were  found  in  small  quantities,  but  it  is  possible 
that  exjjloration  might  develop  beds  of  these.  Many  crystals 
and  traces  of  iron  and  copper  are  found  in  the  creek  beds, 


252  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

but  nowhere  did  we  observe  any  evidence  of  gold,  and  the 
Indians  did  not  seem  to  have  any  native  precious  metals  in 
their  possession. 

Along  the  coast  from  Caledonia  Bay  to  San  Bias  Point 
there  is  nearly  a  continuous  string  of  islands  and  reefs,  which 
protect  the  shore  of  the  mainland  from  the  effects  of  severe 
storms  and  afford  many  safe  anchorages.  The  islands  are 
coralline  in  structure,  and  are  covered  thickly  with  cocoanut 
palms  which  yield  superior  cocoanuts.  Along  the  coast  from 
San  Bias  to  Cape  Tiburon  there  is  a  current  of  about  2  knots 
per  hour.  At  Cape  Tiburon  this  usually'  meets  the  waters  of 
the  Rio  Atrato,  if  in  flood,  and  is  deflected  across  the  Gulf 
of  Darien  and  along  the  coast  toward  Cartagena.  Tliis  coast- 
wise current  jDroved  very  annoying  in  our  trips  with  sailing 
vessels  when  opposed  to  its  force,  especiall^^  in  the  rainy  sea- 
son after  the  northerl}-  trade  winds  have  ceased,  and  there 
are  calms  of  considerable  duration.  At  such  times  our  sloop 
and  schooner  would  helplessly  drift  with  the  current.  Dur- 
ing the  suspension  of  the  trade  winds  there  are  fitful  shore 
and  sea  breezes,  usuall}^  at  night,  that  would  lielp  us  in 
sailing. 

The  winds  of  the  rain}^  season  come  intermittently  as 
squalls,  which  are  dangerous  to  sail  vessels  in  their  fierce 
outbursts,  unless  quick  and  sufiicient  preparations  are  made 
for  their  coming. 

There  seems  to  be  no  evidence  of  recent  volcanic  action  or 
records  of  earthquakes. 

Climate. — There  are  two  seasons  on  the  Isthmus,  a  wet  and 
a  dr3^  Their  duration  is  not  well  defined,  but  usually  the 
former  lasts  from  May  until  January.  During  this  time  there 
is  a  suspension  of  ihe  northerly  trade  winds  and  showers  are 
very  frequent,  the  rainfall  probably  approximating  slightly 
more  than  half  that  at  Greytown,  Nicaragua.  During  the 
"dry"  months  there  are  usually  light  rains  in  the  mountains 
each  night.  The  temperature  is  very  even,  usually  not  vary- 
ing more  than  15°  during  the  year  between  the  limits  of  75° 
and  !)()'  F.  In  the  forest  this  temperature  is  delightful,  and 
on  the  high  hills  the  evenings  are  cold  enough  for  blankets. 
The  climate  did  not  seem  to  have  any  deleterious  effect  by 
itself,  and  with  proper  sanitar}'  discipline  it  would  probably 
not  be  disadvantageous  for  consti-uction  work. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  253 

Iiiltahlkmfs. — Tlie  Indians  of  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  Isth- 
mus of  Darien  make  tlieir  homes  on  the  coast,  or  prefer- 
ably the  islands,  and  cultivate,  in  haphazard  way,  small 
patches  of  land  on  the  coastal  plain  or  river  valle^^s,  gather 
cocoanuts,  and  fish.  Their  features  are  of  Indian  type,  but 
ph3^sically  they  are  inferior  to  most  Indian  races.  Thej-  are 
apparently  losing  in  numbers,  due  to  mortality  among  the 
children.  This  is  not  suprising  after  seeing  the  insanitar}^ 
conditions  of  the  villages.  The  men  are  ver}"  proficient  in 
sailing  or  handling  the  dugout  canoes  that  thej^  fashion 
with  much  skill.  In  these  they  live  most  of  the  day,  fishing, 
getting  cocoanuts,  or  trading.  Small  trading  vessels  frequent 
the  coast  and  exchange  cloth  and  simple  articles  for  cocoa- 
nuts  and  tortoise  shell.  The  men  seem  to  prefer  the  blue 
cotton  cloth,  but  the  women  arraj"  themselves  in  gay  j^ellow 
and  ]-ed.  The  former  wear  large  rings  of  a  copper  alloy  in 
their  ears,  and  the  latter,  in  addition  to  these,  have  them  in 
their  noses,  usually  elongating  the  cartilage.  There  does  not 
seem  to  be  any  definite  tribal  government,  but  each  village 
has  its  chief,  councilors,  and  a  policeman  who  carries  a  carved 
staff  of  office.  Coronel  Inanaguina,  with  whom  our  treaties 
were  made  as  head  chief,  is  a  creation  of  Colombian  influ- 
ences, and  the  Indians,  except  near  Sassardi,  his  home,  did 
not  seem  to  know  or  respect  him.  The  whole  Atlantic  side 
of  the  Isthmus  is  uninhabited  except  these  few  people  who 
live  in  their  palm-thatched  villages  along  the  beach  or  on  the 
islands. 

There  are  Indians  on  the  Rio  Morti  and  Rio  Sucubdi  who 
come  across  the  divide  to  the  coast  to  trade.  The  coast 
Indians  seem  to  stand  in  great  awe  of  these  people  and  ex- 
plained their  unfriendly  attitude  toward  us  by  their  di-ead 
of  punishment  by  the  mountain  Indians  if  they  welcomed 
us.  The  coast  Indians  are  peaceable  and  never  committed 
an}'  overt  act  during  our  stay,  but  their  fears,  which  were 
those  of  childish  instinct,  kept  them  restless  until  our  depar- 
ture. Their  dread  of  aggression  is  rightly  inherited  from 
their  ancestoi's,  who  were  ruthlessly  sacrificed  to  the  greed 
of  the  Conquistadors.  While  this  feeling  lingers  with  the 
old  men,  who  always  govern  in  the  villages,  it  is  appannit 
that  many  of  the  Indians  are  less  conservative.  Some  speak 
the   English  language  quite    well,  on    account   of  visits  to 


254  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

Colon  or  having  shipped  as  sailors.  It  is  probable  that  the 
Indians  will  long  retain  their  land,  as  there  are  no  resonrces 
to  tempt  the  foreigners.  There  does  not  seem  to  be  any 
intermarriage  of  these  people  with  other  races;  any  attempt 
would  undoubtedly  bring  dire  punishment.  Medical  treat- 
ment is  very  primitive  and  the  Indians  at  times  resort  to 
incantations  to  heal.  They  appreciate  the  foreign  doctor 
bej'ond  their  medical  men,  and  were  not  slow  to  ask  for  much 
aid.  Apparently  any  religion  they  may  have  had  is  now 
very  slightly,  if  at  all,  observed.  The  Catholic  priests  of 
former  da^'s  seem  to  have  made  no  important  impressions  of 
their  creed.  To-day  the  Indians  have  many  curious  carved 
wooden  idols,  and  not  only  lack  reverence,  but  at  times  will 
barter  them.  Plantains,  fish,  and  land  crabs  are  the  main 
articles  of  diet,  and  these  are  subjected  to  ver^^  primitive 
cookery.  The  Indians  j^ractice  monogamy  in  their  marital 
relations  and  the  son-in-law  must  serve  the  father-in-law  for 
a  certain  period  or  give  sufficient  goods  for  his  bride. 

Health. — It  is  probable  our  expedition  would  have  as  much 
or  more  sickness  in  most  jiarts  of  the  United  States.  The 
boils  and  sores  that  proved  so  troublesome  were  due  to  dietary 
indiscretions,  poor  cooking,  and  wading  in  the  Avater.  A  few 
light  cases  of  malarial  fever  yielded  very  rapidly  to  simj)le 
treatment.  The  exhausting  hill  climbing  and  i^acking  of 
provisions  told  heavilj^  on  officers  and  laborers  and  made  the 
way  for  the  sickness  with  which  we  Avere  afflicted.  The  In- 
dians after  they  pass  childhood  seem  healthj"  and  live  to  a 
considerable  old  age  in  spite  of  their  slight  attention  to  sani- 
tarj^  measures. 

*  H<  *  H:  H!  *  =!■ 

Supplies. — Where  provisions  must  be  packed  by  laborers 
it  is  doubtful  if  so  extensive  rations  are  advisable,  and  it 
would  be  better  to  limit  according  to  food  values  and  bulk. 
Rice  is  the  great  food  of  the  Tropics,  and  together  with  plan- 
tains should  form  the  bulk  of  rations  for  officers  and  laborers. 
The  effort  to  have  them  use  corn  meal  was  a  failure ;  it  Avas 
too  heating  for  the  Tropics.  Neither  did  mackerel  appeal  to 
the  Colombian  laborer's  palate.  Our  cooks — mere  water 
boilers — were  to  blame  for  manj"  stomach  discomforts,  as 
they  had  to  swim  CA^erything  in  grease.  Many  of  the  men 
suffered  inconvenience  from  alack  of  proper  personal  equip- 
ment, and  this  matter  is  discussed  in  Doctor  Wickes's  report. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  255 

His  remark  in  regard  to  the  necessity  of  a  physical  examina- 
tion of  men  for  sucli  expeditions  is  very  pertinent,  as  persons 
of  physical  inferiority  certainly  are  a  drag  to  progress,  and 
then  life  is  not  a  pleasant  one  in  the  severe  demands  of 
tropical  survej's. 

Labor. — The  progress  of  our  surveys  were  greatlj^  limited 
by  the  inefficient  native  Colombian  labor,  and  it  has  never 
been  my  misfortune  to  meet  worse.  We  were,  of  course, 
limited  to  the  men  along  the  coast,  and  on  account  of  the 
civil  war  most  of  these  were  hiding  from  military  conscrip- 
tion. These  men  seemed  to  have  little  idea  of  patriotism, 
were  indolent  and  capricious.  The  few  men  that  filtered 
through  from  the  interior  were  always  noticeable  as  of  supe- 
rior character.  While  the  wages  paid  (20  pesos  Colombian 
silver  per  month)  were  far  in  excess  of  country  rates,  and  they 
were  fed  with  lavish  generosity  and  even  clothed,  yet  all 
these  they  failed  to  appreciate  when  they  were  coupled  with 
work;  rather  the  liand-to-mouth  living  and  the  continual 
siesta,  while  clothes  were  not  thought  a  necessitj^  of  the 
Tropics.  All  laborers  had  to  be  advanced  monej^  before 
they  would  think  of  going  with  us,  but  thej^  were  faithful  to 
this  obligation. 

*  ****** 

.  We  could  not  prevail  on  the  San  Bias  Indians  to  work,  but 
this  was  not  entirely  due  to  aversion  to  labor,  but  partly 
in  conformance  with  their  uncompromising  attitude  of  not 
rendering  us  any  assistance. 

******* 

Camps. — It  was  impossible  to  find  thatching  for  shacks  in 
abundance,  as  in  Nicaragua,  forcing  us  to  provide  tents,  or, 
rather,  lai'ge  canvas  tarpaulins  were  used.  As  these  were 
not  painted  or  otherwise  treated  thej^  deteriorated  rapidly 
from  mildew. 

******* 

TRANSITMAN  C.  P.  HOWARD'S  REPORT. 

*  *  *  A-  *  *  * 

We  reached  Cartagena,  Colombia,  November  1(3.     A  revo- 
lution was  then  in  i^i-ogress,  and  with  difficulty  a  small  force 
of  laborers  was  secured  to  do  tlio  packing  and  clearing  for 
12312—03 IT 


256  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

the  expedition.  November  24  we  left  Cartagena  on  the  Scor'- 
pion,  and  reached  Caledonia  Bay  the  day  following.  The 
Indians  who  came  aboard  and  hovered  around  were  very 
much  opposed  to  our  landing.  In  consequence,  landing  was 
postjioned  until  several  consultations  had  been  held  with 
them,  and  a  treaty  finally  arranged. 

Most  of  the  work  of  both  parties  in  December  was  confined 
to  the  country  that  could  be  reached  from  the  camj)  at  Cale- 
donia BaJ^  Early  in  January,  Mr.  Ehle  having  arrived  with 
a  considerable  force  of  men,  our  party  moved  camp  south  to 
the  forks  of  Caledonia  River,  and  about  a  month  later  to  a 
site  on  the  east  fork,  8  miles  by  the  river  from  the  supply 
camp  at  its  mouth,  and  2^  miles  in  a  straight  line  from  the 
nearest  point  of  coast.  March  13-14,  camp  w^as  moved  to 
the  suppl}^  station  at  Caledonia  Bay,  and  shortly  afterwards 
to  a  site  on  the  west  fork  of  river.  From  these  j)oints  as  a 
base  the  Caledonia  watershed  w-as  explored. 

:):  ^  H:  H^  *  *  * 

The  higher  parts  of  the  ridge  were  hard  to  reach  on  account 
of  the  rugged  nature  of  the  ravines,  and  the  labor  of  cutting 
trails  on  ridges.  It  was  necessary  to  camp  near  the  summit, 
building  booths  of  leaves.  The  correct  ridge  at  certain  points 
was  hard  to  find,  involving  much  exi^erimental  work.  Except 
a  few  Indian  plantations  near  the  coast,  the  country  is  all 
forest.  If  it  should  be  attempted  at  any  time  to  trace  the 
divide  from  Carreto  east,  it  would  be  wise  to  make  prei^ara- 
tions  to  live  on  the  country  by  hunting  and  fishing  as  much 
as  possible,  as,  owing  to  the  distance,  it  would  be  difficult  to 
reach  the  coast. 

Hs  *  *  *  *  *  * 

There  was  a  considerable  amount  of  sickness  in  the  Cale- 
donia camps,  but  nothing  of  a  serious  nature.  Boils  were 
very  troublesome.  When  severe,  they  entirely-  incapacitated 
a  man  from  work,  especially  tlio^e  on  the  feet  and  legs.  It 
was  suspected  that  they  might  have  been  caused  in  part  by 
the  use  of  leggings  during  the  earlier  months  of  survey. 

April  11  our  party  sailed  from  Caledonia  to  Carreto  Bay, 
and  commenced  the  survey  of  the  watershed  of  Carreto  River, 
Our  first  line  followed  the  i-iver  in  a  southw^esterly  direction 
to  an  elevation  of  395  feet,  at  a  point  whei-e  the  river  gorge 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


257 


turns  toward  the  southeast.  Here  we  left  the  river,  and 
going  west  crossed  the  divide  at  an  elevation  of  053  feet  at  a 
point  500  yards  distant  from  the  river.  By  another  line, 
leaving  the  river  lower  down,  we  crossed  the  divide  in  a  gap, 
elevation  815  feet,  distant  1  mile  to  the  northwest  in  an 
air  line  from  the  first  gap  explored.  The  last-mentioned  gap 
is  very  low  compared  to  the  ground  elevations  on  the  Pacific 
side,  where  the  stream  falls  off  very  slowly.  AVe  followed 
the  water  courses  on  the  Pacific  slope  down  to  an  elevation  of 
750  feet  on  bank  of  stream,  at  a  point  4,000  feet  from  the  first 
gap  and  3,000  from  the  second,  and  considerably  farther  by 
the  meanderings  of  the  streams.  The  streams  that  flow  from 
the  two  gaps  unite  and  form  one  creelv  at  a  point  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  short  of  the  farthest  point  reached.  This  low 
point  in  the  divide  corresponds  to  the  gap  in  the  horizon 
observed  from  the  da}^  before  commencing  the  survey.  It  is 
about  li  miles  southeast  in  an  air  line  from  the  farthest  point 
on  the  ridge  reached  by  reconnaissance  of  the  Caledonia 
watershed,  the  barometer  elevation  of  which  was  1,625  feet. 

The  upper  part  of  the  Carreto  Valley  or  ravine  is  rough. 
The  line  of  survey  avoided  a  half  mile  of  its  course  by  a 
detour  over  a  hill  650  feet  high,  the  bottom  of  ravine  being 
imj)assable  at  that  point. 

On  completion  of  the  Carreto  survej^,  a  stadia  line  was  run 
to  connect  with  the  Caledonia  surveys.  We  followed  an 
Indian  trail  and  the  coast  line  to  a  point  near  Point  Escoces, 
supposed  to  be  the  site  of  old  Fort  St.  Andrew;  thence  across 
the  bay  and  up  a  stream  to  a  connection  with  one  of  the  Cale- 
donia lines.  All  lines  on  the  Carreto  survey  were  run  by 
stadia  measurements  and  needle  bearings,  elevations  being 
taken  with  the  level. 

The  conduct  of  the  Indians  at  Caledonia  Bay  was  in 
general  indifferent.  But  during  the  absence  of  the  Scorpion 
previous  to  March  14,  the  occasion  on  which  we  moved  camp 
to  the  shores,  much  uneasiness  was  felt  concerning  their  atti- 
tude. Our  party  did  not  come  much  in  contact  with  them 
except  by  communication  with  the  supply  camp  at  Caledonia 
Bay.  The  Carreto  Indians  were  frieudU%  a  fact  which  was 
gratifying  and  of  substantial  advantage,  in  view  of  the  sup- 
plies of  fruit  and  occasional  game  which  we  secured  from 
them. 


258  NOTES  ON  PANAMA 

REPORT  OF  MR.  H.  H.  GRANGER,  CHIEF  OF  PARTY  NO.  3. 

The  working  camp  was  located  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  the 
Nercalaqua  River,  with  party  No.  4  on  the  opposite  or  west 
side  of  the  river.  Here  the  fresh  water  was  not  affected  by 
the  tide. 

The  scope  of  the  work  hoped  to  be  attained  by  this  expe- 
dition had  as  a  prime  object  of  a  more  thorough  exploration 
of  the  passes  at  the  headwaters  of  the  Carti  River  than  had 
been  accomplished  by  the  earlier  survey's. 

The  valley  of  the  Carti  River  was  reached  in  7  miles  by  a 
broken  line,  following  the  most  favorable  ridges  to  facilitate 
our  progress  and  to  meet  the  requirements  of  a  simple  con- 
necting line.  These  ridges,  were  composed  of  rocky  spurs 
reaching  a  maximum  elevation  of  420  feet,  thinly  covered 
with  the  residual  yellow  clay,  but  affording  foothold  for  the 
enshrouding  tropical  forest  that  is  existent  from  ocean  to 
ocean.  For  the  first  mile  and  a  half  we  covered  the  low  and 
at  times  marshy  coastal  i^lain.  This  is  the  land  on  which 
the  San  Bias  Indians  make  a  futile  effort  to  subdue  the  over- 
whelming tropical  growth  for  the  cultivation  of  the  banana, 
cane,  coeoanut,  alligator  pears,  coffee,  etc.  At  3|  miles  from 
the  beach  we  encountered  an  unmapped  river  of  considerable 
size  that  flows  directly  to  the  sea.  Camp  No.  3  was  estab- 
lished on  the  banks  of  the  Carti,  at  an  elevation  of  GO  feet. 

The  Carti  River,  here  averaging  150  feet  wide,  was  well 
suited  to  a  meander  line,  though  forcing  the  men  to  wade 
continually^  but  was  impracticable  for  a  packing  trail.  The 
laborers  thus  relieved  from  chopping  were  put  to  work  clear- 
ing a  more  favorable  trail  along  the  crest  of  the  ridges  that 
held  the  general  direction  of  the  river.  At  points  we  were 
thus  a  mile  away,  but  at  intervals  were  forced  in  near  the 
river  by  the  larger  tributaries,  which  was  taken  advantage  of 
for  camping  ground,  to  be  near  the  work. 

******* 

After  the  bed  of  the  river  attained  an  elevation  of  300 
feet,  the  surrounding  range  of  hills  increased  in  height,  tow- 
ering up  from  the  watei-'s  edge  narrowing  the  channel  to  al- 
most imj)assable  i-ocky  (canyons  through  which  the  water 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA  259 

rushed  with  torrential  force.  This  state  of  the  river  contin- 
ued until  the  verj'  headwaters  were  reached  at  the  pass  lo- 
cated at  an  elevation  of  056  feet,  and  as  measured  by  our 
traverse  line  20  miles  from  the  zero  point  on  the  beach.  This 
summit  proved  to  be  the  lowest  of  anj^  subsequently  discov- 
ered in  this  region. 

*  *  *  H:  *  *  * 

Climate. — At  our  beach  camp  it  was  generally  hot  and  sti- 
fling, rendered  burdensome  by  the  mosquitoes  at  night,  and 
a  minute  gnat  at  all  times.  Still  the  men  in  charge  the  of 
commissar}^  camp  and  the  doctor  attached  to  our  party  be- 
came accustomed  to  these  discomforts  and  remained  there 
the  season  througli  without  an}"  ill  effects  from  the  location. 
When  once  an  elevation  of  lOU  feet  was  attained,  or  even  50 
feet,  a  noticeable  improvement  was  felt,  the  woods  and  soil 
laden  with  moisture  had  a  decided  tendency  to  modify  and 
temper  the  rays  of  the  sun.  At  night  a  light  covering  was 
always  desirable  and  the  mosquito  nets  were  always  used  as 
a  protection  against  heavy  dews.  At  an  elevation  of  1,500 
feet  the  atmosphere  was  invigorating  to  a  marked  degree, 
but  usuallj'  toward  sundown  clouds  heavilj"  laden  with  mois- 
ture came  rolling  up  from  the  Atlantic  side,  enveloping  our 
camp  in  a  dense  fog,  the  dampness  penetrating  our  clothing 
and  bedding  much  to  our  discomfort.  Our  fieldwork,  con- 
tinuing from  the  middle  of  January  to  the  latter  part  of  May, 
was  favored  by  the  dry  season;  however,  there  was  enough 
rain  falling,  usuall}'^  a  soaking  shower  once  a  week,  to  start 
all  vegetation  and  thus  keeping  the  ground  saturated  and 
giving  rise  to  rnnning  rivulets  in  all  arroyos  even  at  the 
highest  elevations.  The  continued  healthfulness  of  our  party 
was  doubtless  in  a  great  measure  due  to  the  cool  and  pure 
water  always  at  hand. 

The  San  Bias  Indians. — The  small  islands  along  the  coast 
encircling  Mandinga  Hai-bor  are  clustered  with  the  dwellings 
of  a  numerous  branch  of  the  ancient  tribe  of  the  San  Bias 
Indians,  which  they  inhabit  to  the  exclusion  of  the  main- 
land, thus  obtaining  full  benefit  of  the  cooling  trade  winds. 
Here  in  this  isolated  position  they  live  a  life  of  independence, 
with  no  restraint  from  the  Coloml)ian  Government,  claiming 
the  mainland  by  family  allotment,  submitting  to  their  tribal 
regulations  peacefully,  and  having  duly  appointed  executives. 
They  are  industrious  to  a  marked  degree,  constantly  fishing. 


260  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

clearing  up  small  patches  for  oultivation,  or  gathering  the 
ripening  fruits  and  nuts  and  disposing  of  the  surplus  in 
Colon  in  exchange  for  domestic  necessities.  They  present  a 
picturesque  sight  while  skillfully  handling  their  small  canoes 
in  the  open  Gulf  or  paddling  up  the  navigable  rivers. 

As  long  as  our  camps  were  accessible  from  navigable 
streams  we  were  frequentlj^  visited  by  curious  groups  of  In- 
dians, but  were  never  molested  by  them  further  than  missing 
a  few  tins  of  supijlies  that  were  left  unprotected,  for  they 
were  generally  attending  to  their  own  affairs.  These  Indians 
will  liiiely  be  permitted  to  retain  possession  of  these  islands 
for  all  time,  for  the  interior  is  doomed  to  remain  a  wilderness. 

REPORT  OF  MR.  W.  P.  ALFORD,  CHIEF  OF  PARTY  NO.  4. 

General  report  relative  to  the  exploration  of  the  Isthmus 
from  the  Mandinga  Pass  to  the  source  of  the  Rio  Chagres  and 
down  the  river  to  Gorgona,  on  the  Panama  Railroad. 

Hi  ^  ^i  ^  ^  ^  ^ 

The  object  of  this  exploration  was  to  *  *  *  determine 
the  existence  of  a  pass  in  the  Cordillera  lower  than  1,000 
feet,  if  such  a  pass  existed;  also,  to  learn  the  general  char- 
acter of  the  topographj^  flora,  and  geology  of  this  section, 
which  has  heretofore  been  an  unknown  wilderness. 

While  the  laborers  were  packing  provisions  from  the  com- 
missary I  was  personall}-  occupied  in  exploring  the  vallej^ 
to  the  south  and  on  the  Pacific  side.  This  valley  is  a  part 
of  the  drainage  of  the  Rio  Chepo,  and  the  river  is  as  large  as 
the  Carti.  It  heads  due  west  in  the  high  mountains,  and 
as  it  does  not  appear  on  the  map  I  assumed  that  hereto- 
fore it  was  unknown  except  to  the  Indians,  and  named  it 
"Rio  Gaston."  The  lUitler  River,  shown  on  the  Selfridge 
map,  flows  into  this  river  to  the  south  and  east  of  the  Man- 
dinga Pass.  I  also  followed  the  divide  to  the  west  for  a  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  located  our  second  camp  close 
to  a  fine  spring. 

On  Saturday,  May  5,  five  weeks'  provisions  were  at  camp 
No.  1,  and  early  that  morning  we  broke  camp  and  made  our 
real  start  along  the  divide  for  the  Chagres  River. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  261 

The  work  was  distributed  among  the  officers  and  men,  as 
follows:  Myself  and  one  native  did  the  advance  scouting, 
blazing  the  trail  along  the  divide  and  determining  as  far  as 
possible  the  most  feasible  path  for  a  packing  trail.  Owing 
to  the  peculiar  conformation  of  the  divide  along  tliis  part 
of  the  Isthmus,  this  w^ork  proved  slow  and  exceedingly  ardu- 
ous. To  find  the  divide  and  trace  it,  we  were  compelled 
many  times  to  climb  down  from  the  summit  of  the  high 
ridges  to  deep  gorges,  often  500  or  a  thousand  feet  deep, 
then  slowly  and  with  infinite  labor  follow  up  the  stream  to 
its  source.  This  operation  would  be  sometimes  repeated  on 
the  opposite  side,  thus  making  doubly  sure  of  our  position; 
then  cutting  back  along  the  divide  to  our  trail,  we  were  able 
to  carrj^  the  advance  scouting  along  the  backbone  of  the 
Cordillera. 

Owing  to  the  almost  impenetrable  jungle  vegetation,  our 
progress  was  often  slow,  yet  in  the  face  of  all  the  trying  and 
fatiguing  labor  of  tracing  the  continental  divide,  our  prog- 
ress averaged  about  1  mile  per  day  up  to  the  time  we  reached 
the  headwaters  of  the  Chagres,  on  May  18. 

******* 

At  every  step  of  our  progress  along  the  divide  unusual 
difficulties  met  us.  The  crest  of  the  Cordillera  from  San 
Bias  to  the  Chagres  was  covered  with  a  mass  of  wet,  slimy, 
creeping  vines,  binding  the  dense  underbrush  into  a  solid 
mass  of  undergrowth.  The  divide  itself  is  an  almost  inex- 
plainable  factor  in  its  erratic  windings.  Tlie  series  of  nearly 
parallel  ridges  running  with  the  axis  of  the  Isthmus  form 
only  so  many  links  in  the  chain.  These  high  ridges  are 
connected  by  two  traverse  ridges,  usually  so  low  and  obscure 
that  their  presence,  even  when  the  view  is  unobstructed,  is 
uncertain,  and  at  a  season  of  the  j'ear  when  it  rains  almost 
every  hour  of  the  day  it  is  impossible  to  know  where  or  when 
to  look  for  them.  The  advance  Avork  of  cutting  a  path  along 
the  crest  of  the  divide,  and  being  able  to  follow  it  from  ridge 
to  ridge,  is  a  most  serious  problem,  and  even  when  condi- 
tions are  favorable,  which  seldom  occurs,  the  work  is  most 
difficult. 

The  topography  of  this  part  of  the  Isthmus  consists  of 
three  main  ridges  running  approximately  east  and  west  with 
the  Isthmus.  Tliere  is  a  high  mountain  range  lying  between 
the  Pacific  and  the  Rio  Gaston   that  swings  to   the  north 


262  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

near  the  head  of  the  Rio  Chagres  and  forms  the  Cordillera 
proper;  also  another  range  of  mountains  that  runs  out  on 
San  Bias  Point  and  joins  the  main  range  near  the  same  place 
as  the  range  on  the  south.  Between  these  three  ranges  there 
are  innumerable  spurs  and  low  ridges,  separated  by  deep 
gorges  and  narrow  vallej^s.  At  the  point  where  the  moun- 
tain range  on  the  south  and  from  San  Bias  Point  joins  the 
Cordillera  occurs  the  highest  mass  of  mountains.  This,  as 
shown  by  the  profile,  reaches  an  elevation  of  nearly  3,000 
feet.  From  the  Mandinga  Pass,  at  an  elevation  of  004  feet, 
the  gradient  is  uniformly  ascending  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  and  is  indicated  on  the  map  as  "Brewster  Peak." 
The  flora  of  the  divide  is  almost  identical  with  that  found 
at  San  Bias  and  other  parts  of  the  Isthmus,  excepting  possi- 
bly a  less  marked  tropical  vegetation.  This  can  be  accounted 
for  bj'  the  higher  altitude,  and  it  impressed  us  as  being  more 
subtropical.  There  are  few  valuable  woods  aside  from  an 
occasional  mahogany  or  cedar.  The  palm  famil}'  is  poorly 
represented.  Only  one  species  attracted  our  attention,  and 
unfortunatelj^  only  the  local  Indian  name  was  secured,  viz, 
"Palma  amarga."  This  palm  is  peculiar  in  its  giant  leaves, 
which  are  circular  and  fully  4  to  6  feet  across  the  solid  cen- 
tral part,  and  from  this  solid  part  radiate  long  pendants, 
making  the  leaf  fully  8  or  10  feet  in  diameter.  The  trunk  is 
covered  with  a  hairy  fiber,  which  makes  it  appear  much 
larger  than  it  really  is.  This  tree  is  only  found  in  one  small 
locality  and  at  an  elevation  of  about  2,500  feet.  The  geolog- 
ical formation  is  difficult  to  describe,  owing  to  the  fact  that 
all  rock  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere  is  rotten.  A 
few  general  observations  were  made  as  opportunity  offered. 
The  rock  formation  is  granite  and  composed  of  two  principal 
varieties,  namely,  a  dark  blue  and  a  variegated  gray  granite. 
Often  these  two  kinds  of  stone  would  be  found  cemented 
together,  with  the  line  of  demarcation  cut  sharp,  while  the 
mass  itself  was  one.  The  most  prominent  feature  noticed 
relative  to  the  general  character  of  the  rock  was  its  dip. 
This  wherever  its  stratification  was  observable  was  found  to 
dip  toward  the  south  or  Pacific  side  at  an  angle  of  10  to  15°. 
This  observation  was  Ijorne  out  by  the  fact  that  all  springs 
on  the  Atlantic  side  are  from  300  to  1,000  feet  below  the  crest 
of  the  divide,  while  on  the  Pacific  side  water  can  often  be 
found  at  the  head  of  the  water  courses  and  within  a  few  feet 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  263 

of  the  summit  of  the  backbone.  Only  in  two  instances  did 
we  find  traces  of  volcanic  action,  and  these  were  on  spurs 
of  the  divide  and  mii>ht  have  been  caused  by  a  buckling, 
due  to  a  sudden  lift  and  cooling-  and  then  dropping  to  the 
normal  level.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  ver}^  little  evidence  of 
volcanic  action  is  to  be  found  between  San  Bias  and  Panama. 

On  reaching  the  summit  of  Brewster  Peak,  May  18,  it  was 
quite  evident  that  at  last  we  were  in  the  watershed  of  the 
Chagres  River.  At  this  point  the  continental  divide  swings 
to  the  southwest  for  a  distance  of  2  or  '3  miles,  Avhereit  meets 
and  joins  a  high  mountain  range,  running  parallel  to  the 
Pacific  coast.  From  the  top  of  Brewster  Peak  we  had  a  fine 
view  down  a  valley  running  nearly  S.  60  W.  As  this  was 
almost  the  first  clear  day  since  leaving  the  Mandinga  Pass, 
it  seemed  quite  providential  that  such  an  opportunity  was 
offered  to  verify  our  position  by  surrounding  conditions.  Up 
to  this  time  we  had  kept  a  rough  traverse,  that  our  location 
might  be  approximately  known,  and  our  position  on  the  map 
so  nearlj^  coincided  with  our  surroundings  that  we  felt  con- 
fident in  our  position.  Other  observations  from  this  moun- 
tain develoi^ed  the  fact  that  the  Mandinga  River  heads  on  the 
northeast  side  and  the  Rio  Gaston  on  the  south  side,  while 
the  Rio  Chagres  finds  its  head  near  the  summit  on  the  south- 
west face. 

Leading  off  from  the  mountain  there  is  a  long  spur  fully 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length,  which  leads  down  to 
the  river  on  the  north  side.  As  the  spur  runs  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  valle}^  we  followed  it  down  the  river.  Previously 
I  had  explored  the  stream  and  found  it  to  be  so  hemmed  in 
bj^  perpendicular  rocks  that  it  was  impossible  to  follow  down 
the  bed  of  the  stream.  Like  all  other  water  courses  in  this 
section  the  amount  of  water  collected  in  a  given  area  is  sur- 
prisingly large,  and  Avhen  we  reached  the  river  scarcely  1 
mile  from  its  head,  we  found  fully  10  cubic  feet  of  water 
flowing  per  second  and  increasing  rapidly  as  we  went  down 
the  river.  About  one-half  mile  below  this  point,  which  is 
indicated  on  the  map  as  Camp  No.  6,  the  river  narrows  up, 
and  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile  there  is  a  deep  gorge,  neces- 
sitating the  cutting  of  a  trail  up  an  almost  perpendicular 
bluff  and  down  on  the  other  side  of  the  bluff  to  the  river. 
Although  the  difficulties  we  had  met  on  the  divide  had  been 
many,  yet  their  aggregate  was  less  fatiguing  tlian  the  work 


264  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

of  cutting-  a  trail  up  these  bluffs  and  around  the  gorges, 
which  became  so  many  and  so  difficult  of  passage  that  we 
Avere  at  one  time  temj)ted  to  leave  the  river  for  the  hills,  but 
this  was  abandoned  after  one  trial,  as  it  carried  us  a  long- 
way  from  the  river.  On  coming  back  to  the  river  we  found 
another  goi-ge  just  below  which  proved  more  serious  to  pass 
than  any  of  the  jirevious  ones,  as  it  was  nearl}'  5  miles  long. 
Repeatedly  we  had  to  cut  a  path  up  an  almost  perpendicular 
bluff,  down  over  detached  bowlders  and  through  a  labja-inth 
of  vines,  and  as  at  this  time  we  were,  both  officers  and  men, 
packing-  from  30  to  50  pounds  on  our  backs,  the  labor  can 
well  be  imagined.  In  this  gorge  the  channel  varies  from  20 
to  50  feet  in  width,  and  the  depth  of  the  water  is  from  10  to 
50  feet.  The  appearance  of  these  gorges  indicates  that  the 
river  is  following-  a  fissure,  caused  b}^  an  earthquake,  which 
opened  a  huge  crevice  parallel  with  and  along  the  north  side 
of  the  divide.  Up  to  this  last  gorge,  named  Danta  Canyon, 
there  were  three  considerable  sti-eams  entering  the  Chagres — 
two  from  the  north  and  one  from  the  south.  The  most 
noticeable  feature  of  these  streams  was  the  marked  differ- 
ence in  the  color  of  the  water,  as  well  as  the  marked  change 
in  the  temperature.  The  streams  from  the  south  were  all  as 
clear  as  crystal  and  the  water  cold,  evidently  coming  from 
high  altitudes  and  running  over  a  rocky  bed.  The  streams 
entering  from  the  north  were  all  greatly  discolored,  having 
the  appearance  of  swamp  water,  and  the  temperature  was 
several  degrees  warmer.  Why  this  difference  should  exist  I 
am  unable  to  state,  as  our  observation  from  the  top  of  the 
hills  failed  to  locate  any  area  sufficiently^  level  to  admit  a 
swamp.  The  discoloration  may  be  due  to  an  alluvial  soil 
through  which  the  rivers  flow.  This  can  easily  be,  as  there 
evidently  is  a  section  lying  between  the  mountains  forming 
the  divide  and  the  range  that  runs  close  to  Portobello,  where 
the  rock  is  less  iDronounced,  and  consequently  there  is  a 
greater  amount  of  soil  over  the  rock,  through  which  the 
water  finds  its  course. 

From  the  source  of  the  Chagres  down  several  miles  the 
river  drops  at  the  rate  of  200  feet  per  mile,  and  then  there  is 
a  uniform  drop  of  25  feet  to  the  mile  until  we  reach  Santa 
Barbara,  the  upper  gaging  station.  This  rate  of  descent  in 
the  river  makes  a  series  of  rapids.  While  not  continuous, 
they  are  so  close  together  that  only  a  few  hundi-ed  feet  sepa- 


•  NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  265 

rate  them.  The  channel  where  the  rapids  are  most  numerous 
is  filled  with  bowlders  from  the  size  of  a  man's  head  to  the 
size  of  an  omnibus.  As  the  water  rushes  over  and  between 
the  rocks  it  is  churned  into  a  white  foam.  The  perpendicular 
rocks  often  compelled  us  to  cross  these  rapids  to  gain  a  better 
footing  on  the  other  side.  As  some  of  the  men  were  unable 
to  swim,  a  sense  of  relief  was  always  felt  when  all  were 
safel}^  across.  Often  long  poles  would  have  to  be  held  out  in 
the  channel  to  give  support  to  the  weaker  men,  as  the  swift 
current  would  catch  them  in  midstream.  On  several  occa- 
sions the  men  and  packs  were  completely  submerged  and  had 
to  be  pulled  ashore  bj'  the  men  holding  the  poles  on  the  bank. 
Although  these  incidents  were  often  dangerous,  yet  they 
furnished  much  merriment,  which  greatly  relieved  the  monot- 
ony of  the  laborious  work  of  packing  and  travel.  This  work 
was  continued  from  May  18  until  May  l'6,  wiien  the  difficul- 
ties became  so  great  that  we  determined  to  build  rafts  and, 
if  possible,  make  greater  ^i)eed  even  at  greater  personal  risk. 

On  Saturday  afternoon,  May  26,  after  working  our  way 
over  a  high  bluff  and  through  an  almost  impassable  canyon, 
we  stopped  and  began  the  work  of  raft  building.  This 
proved  less  difficult  than  at  first  expected.  Along  the  banks 
there  were  plenty  of  trees,  known  to  the  natives  as  "balsa," 
which  make  an  ideal  raft  owing  to  its  wonderful  cork-like 
nature.  The  rafts  were  about  8  feet  long  and  5  feet  wide, 
bound  together  by  crosspieces  securely  pinned  to  the  logs. 
Although  these  rafts  were  comparatively  small,  yet  they 
would  carry  safely  500  pounds. 

On  Saturday  morning.  May  27,  the  finishing  touches  were 
given  to  the  five  rafts,  and  at-9  o'clock  our  baggage  and  pro- 
visions were  securely  lashed  to  the  rafts,  and  the  personnel 
of  the  crews  determined  by  distributing  the  poor  men  among 
the  experienced  men.  On  the  two  rafts  in  the  lead,  and  this 
position  was  maintained  during  the  entire  trip,  were  3Ir. 
Philips,  Mr.  Coates,  and  myself,  with  two  trusty  natives. 
The  two  days  on  the  rafts  furnished  many  exciting  incidents 
as  we  whirled  in  and  out  among  the  rocks  or  slowly  poled 
our  way  through  the  still  water.  Often  in  shooting  the  i-ap- 
ids  we  would  strike  great  bowlders  in  midstream,  or  at  a  sharp 
angle  in  the  channel  we  would  be  thrown  on  the  rocks,  often 
with  such  force  that  we  were  unable  to  keep  our  footing  and 
so  would  be  thrown  into  the  river;  yet  with  all  tlie  many 


266  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

upsets  and  duckings  that  we  were  subjected  to  we  readied 
Santa  Barbara  safely  and  without  any  serious  accidents.  In 
looking  back  over  the  trip  from  the  i  ime  we  left  the  pass 
until  we  reached  the  gaging  station,  it  seems  almost  provi- 
dential that  we  escaped  serious  accidents  and  sickness.  Our 
nights  were  spent  in  the  jungle  or  on  the  sand  banks,  often 
without  protection  from  the  elements,  and  the  days  were 
passed  in  the  most  difficult  work  of  climbing  rugged  hills  and 
down  gorges  or  in  shooting  rapids  where  bowlders  were  as 
thick  as  pebbles.  During  this  trip  no  signs  of  Indians  were 
foundj  and  as  far  as  the  observations  of  ihe  party  go,  there 
are  no  Indians  between  the  (Tulf  of  San  Bias  and  Santa  Bar- 
bara on  the  Chagres  River.  There  were  many  stories  circu- 
lated relative  to  the  Indians  on  tliis  part  of  the  Isthmus,  and 
we  expected  to  be  fed  on  poisoned  arrows  and  have  the 
nights  made  hideous  by  the  fear  of  massacre;  but  these 
stories  were  merely  mj^ths,  emanating  from  timid  people. 

The  animal  life  is  exceptionally  meager,  even  the  ever- 
present  monkey  seems  to  feel  lonelj^  in  the  solitude  of  this 
vast  wilderness.  An  occasional  tiger  track  was  the  only  in- 
dication that  the  animal  lived  at  all  in  this  section.  The 
wild  hogs,  so  plentiful  in  Nicaragua,  are  seldom  found  on  this 
part  of  the  Isthmus.  Wild  turkey  and  a  large  "pava"  are 
found  in  sections,  but  not  plentiful  enough  to  be  depended 
upon  for  meat.  The  ''danta,"  or  tapir,  are  numerous  along 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Chagres,  and  as  they  have  never 
been  bunted  or  disturbed  by  man,  there  was  little  difficulty 
in  shooting  them.  Thei-e  are  ver}'  few  snakes  to  be  found 
in  any  place  along  our  survey  on  the  Nercalagua  or  the  divide. 
Why  this  fact  should  be,  not  only  relative  to  the  snakes,  but 
to  all  animal  life,  seems  to  be  an  unanswered  question,  unless 
it  be  the  dividing  line  betwvven  North  and  South  America  in 
the  animal  and  vegetable  world. 

REPORT  OF  DR.  G.  L.  WICKES,  SURGEON  TO  EXPEDITION. 

(1)    EFFECT   OF   CLIMATE. 

During  the  dry  season  there  were  occasional  heavy  down- 
falls of  rain  occurring  through  the  day,  as  a  rule.  After 
May  1  the  bulk  of  the  rain  fell  between  sunset  and  sunrise. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  267 

The  wetting  from  rain  had  1'  cle  effect  on  the  men's  liealth, 
as  the}^  were  continnally  wtt  from  day  to  day  from  wading 
the  mountain  streams.  Prolonged  exertion  when  chilled  bj^ 
water-soaked  garments  predisposed  one  to  slight  febrile 
attacks  and  bilious  fever.  The  danger  of  this  was  greath* 
lessened  by  a  bath  followed  by  a  brisk  rub  down  on  the 
return  to  camp.  The  greater  part  of  the  work  of  the  survey' 
was  done  at  an  elevation  of  over  three  hundred  feet,  so  the 
men  were  not  exposed  to  the  worst  form  of  the  tropical 
climate.  The  absence  of  swamps  and  mosquitoes  at  this 
elevation  precluded  the  infection  of  malarial  fever,  while  the 
dense  growth  of  trees,  vines,  and  underbrush  was  a  complete 
protection  from  the  sun.  It  can  not  be  said  that  the  men 
suffered  much  from  the  climate.  Enervation  and  bilious  fever 
were  about  all  that  could  be  charged  up  agains  it.  The 
first  was  a  natural  and  expected  result,  and  the  latter  was 
due  more  to  the  lack  of  physical  condition  of  some  of  the 
men  than  to  the  effect  of  the  climate.  None  of  the  officers 
was  subjected  to  a  physical  examination  before  starting  for 
the  Isthmus,  and  naturally  many  of  them  were  ill-conditioned. 
Men  who  are  at  all  inclined  to  stoutness  do  not  stand  hard 
work  well  in  this  climate.  There  was  no  case  of  isolation  in 
any  of  the  parties. 

{2)    SICKNESS. 

(«)  Swam})  sores. — The  affection  locally  known  as  ''swamj) 
sore"  differs  but  little  from  the  indolent  ulcer  in  description, 
jjrogress,  course,  and  treatment.  This,  though  a  minor  ail- 
ment, was  the  most  annoying  and  frequent  ailment  with  which 
the  writer  had  to  contend.  The  development  of  swamp  sores 
depended  on  several  conditions,  as  follows:  In  certain  local- 
ities along  the  seacoast  or  in  swampy  districts  biting  insects 
became  very  numerous  and  troublesome.  The  itching  occa- 
sioned bj'  gnats,  sandflies,  and  mosquitoes  was  at  first  slight 
and  easily  bearable.  This  irritation  gradually  increased  in 
severity  and  became  so  unbearable  that  to  refrain  from 
scratching  the  points  of  the  itching  skin  was  eventually  an 
impossibility.  Many  of  the  officers  were  unable  to  sleep 
until  they  had  at  first  scratched  the  epidermis  from  the  bitten 
area.  Others  would  seek  the  same  relief  from  the  intolerable 
itching  in  their  sleep.  This  resulted  in  nurnerous  raw,  in- 
flamed surfaces  which  were  prevented  from  healing  through 


268  NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 

the  constant  wading  necessitai  1  l\y  the  work  of  the  survey. 
It  was  noticed  that  tliose  wearing  canvas  leggings  suffered 
most  from  swamp  sores.  Infection  naturally  followed  the 
deluj^ed  healing  of  the  primary  abrasion.  The  ulcers  were 
mostly  confined  to  the  lower  limbs,  though  a  few  developed 
on  the  arms.  They  were  not  observed  on  any  other  part  of  the 
body.  In  appearance  these  sores  resemble  any  small  super- 
ficial ulcer.  They  are  red,  inflamed,  irregular-shaped  depres- 
sions, some  round,  others  oval,  and  varying  in  size  from  that 
of  a  dime  to  a  25-cent  piece.  While  actively  inflamed  the 
border  and  base  is  irregular  and  angry  looking,  but  during 
the  subsequent  process  of  cicatrization  they  jpresent  a  smooth 
punched-out  appearance.  The  secretion  is  a  characteristic, 
clear  sero-purulent  fluid  which  may  be  slightly  sanguineous 
at  times.  This  secretion  is  constantl}^  collecting  beneath  a 
crust  of  false  cicatrization  which  alternatel}"  breaks,  dis- 
charges, and  re-forms  during  the  active  stage  of  the  sore. 
These  sores  may  be  single  or  multiple.  As  many  as  a  dozen 
have  been  observed  on  one  limb.  They  affect  the  skin  and 
subcutaneous  tissue,  but  go  no  deeper,  their  further  growth 
following  a  lateral  direction  by  continuity  of  tissue.  A  cure 
results  in  a  i)igmented  scar  bluish  red  or  reddish  brown  which 
remains  for  several  years.  The  treatment  is  the  same  as  that 
for  any  infected  surface,  but  dilficult  when  the  patient  con- 
tinues working.  Rest  and  antiseptic  dressings,  daily,  result 
in  a  cure  from  two  weeks  to  a  month,  depending  on  the 
amount  of  tissue  destroyed.  When  the  patient  continues 
working  the  rule  should  be  antiseptic  dressings  twice  daily, 
and  the  application  of  an  impervious  dressing  of  cotton  and 
flexible  collodion  every  }norning.  Prophylactic  measures 
embrace  the  avoidance  of  being  bitten  by  insects  as  far  as 
possible  and  treatment  to  allay  the  irritation  of  the  stings 
when  they  have  occurred.  When  wading  streams  continu- 
ally the  clothing  about  the  lower  limbs  should  be  as  light  as 
possible  and  canvas  leggings  should  not  be  worn.  The  devel- 
opment of  swamp  sores  also  dejiends  on  the  condition  of  the 
patient's  blood.  They  were  much  worse  in  ansemic  individ- 
uals and  consequently  worse  for  everyone  during  the  process 
of  acclimation.  They  were  very  general  among  the  officers; 
hardly  a  man  escaped  them.  The  native  Colombians  were 
not  subject  to  them. 

{!))   Ifoils. — Many  men  were  temi)orarily  incapacited  from 
dutv  from  this  cause. 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA.  269 

(c)  Bilious  fever. — This  was  the  most  frequent  serious 
illness  encountered.  The  symptoms  were  headache,  dizzi- 
ness, loss  of  appetite,  nausea,  vomitinsj,  constipation,  and  a 
constant  temperature  of  104°  F. 

((7)  Contrary  to  expectations,  ver}'  few  cases  of  intermittent 
fever  were  developed  among  the  officers.  But  two  cases 
occurred  in  this  party  (No.  2),  both  of  the  tertian  type  and 
both  yielding-  readily  to  the  orthodox  treatment  of  rest  in 
bed  and  quinine  sulphate  administered  twice  daily. 

(e)  Gusanos  caused  universal  annoyance  to  all  of  the 
officers.  They  resembled  boils  very  much,  from  which  thej^ 
were  differentiated  as  follows:  The  gusano  is  caused  bj"  the 
larvae  of  some  insect — probably  the  gadflj' — hatching  in  the 
skin  and  forming  a  grub  there.  When  squeezed  the  thin 
yellowish  tluid  always  escapes  from  the  apex  of  the  tumor 
through  a  small  aperture,  which  is  constantlj"  present.  This 
is  characteristic  of  the  gusano.  The  grub  is  best  expressed 
by  squeezing,  after  the  application  of  an  impervious  dressing. 

(/)  There  was  one  case  of  acute  lobar  pneumonia,  which 
after  running  a  tj'pical  course  came  down  by  lysis.  The 
patient  was  a  native  Colombian. 

{g)  Infectious  diseases. — There  was  no  yellow  fever  or 
smallpox  in  the  vicinity  of  the  various  camps,  and  the  Indians 
have  no  recollection  of  an  epidemic  of  the  former.  At  Car- 
reto  the  Indian  village  was  half  <lepopulated  b}'  variola  about 
ten  years  ago,  and  fully  50  per  cent  of  the  present  inhabitants 
of  this  town  bear  the  characteristic  pitting  on  their  faces  to 
the  present  time. 

The  native  Indians  are  subject  to  enteritis,  d^'sentery,  and 
measles,  but  none  of  the  Americans  or  Colombians  in  party 
No.  2  were  affected  by  these  diseases. 

(3)    LOCATION   AND    SANITATION    OF    CAMPS — WATER    SUPPLY. 

Whenever  possible  the  chosen  camp  site  was  located  on  the 
banks  of  a  clear  running  stream.  The  best  sites  were  on  a 
slight  grade,  as  better  drainage  was  secured  and  drier  camps 
resulted.  Latrines  were  made  by  digging  pits  and  covering 
fresh  excreta  with  loose  sand  or  dirt.  These  were  situated 
from  50  to  100  feet  from  the  camp  proper.  All  other  refuse 
was  disposed  of  in  a  similar  manner.  The  pits  were  located, 
of  course,  at  a  lower  elevation  than  either  the  camp  or  the 
water  supply. 


270 


NOTES    ON    PANAMA. 


The  tent  flies  in  conjunction  with  the  rubber  sheets  sus- 
pended above  each  cot  afforded  ample  protection  from  the 
heavy  rains  at  night.  Neither  would  have  sufficed  alone. 
The  flies  mildewed  and  became  very  leaky  after  two  months' 
service  in  the  brush  woods.  The  water  supply  came  from 
the  small  mountain  streams  and  was  invariably  pure.  Either 
boiling'  or  filtering  it  were  unnecessary^  precautions.  To  this 
purity  of  the  water  is  ascribed  the  perfect  freedom  froni  en- 
teritis and  dysentery  enjoyed  by  the  men.  Not  a  case  of 
either  sickness  occurred  after  leaving  Cartagena  in  this  camp. 

(4)    DIET  AND   COMMISSARY. 

Of  the  articles  of  food  included  in  the  commissary  it  can 
be  said  that  most  of  them  were  healthful,  palatable,  and  cli- 
mate proof.  There  were  a  few  exceptions,  however,  here 
noted.  The  allowance  of  corn  meal  per  capita  was  too  large; 
less  than  one-fourth  of  it  was  eaten.  Canned  tomatoes  did 
not  withstand  the  climate,  and  all  were  spoiled.  The  same 
was  true  of  all  the  ham  prepared  in  cottolene.  The  Imperial 
brand  of  cheese  was  the  only  variety  that  did  not  spoil.  The 
men  did  not  care  for  the  salt  mackerel,  though  it  kept  well; 
but  bacon  was  eaten  daily  with  relish  to  the  end  of  the  expe- 
dition. The  men  were  generally  affected  by  a  slight  distaste 
for  food  after  several  months'  work  on  the  Isthmus.  Dilute 
whisky,  sheri-y  wine,  or  claret  seem  almost  a  necessity  in 
small  quantities.  Heavy  drinkers  do  not  last  long  in  the 
Tropics. 

(5)   PERSONAL   OUTFIT. 


For  a  six  months'  expedition : 


Pocket  case  of  toilet  articles. 
Three  towels. 
One  housewife. 
Straw  hat. 
Felt  hat. 

Two  woolen  overshirts. 
Two  or  three  suits  woolen  under- 
wear. 
Six  pairs  woolen  hose. 
Two  pairs  duck  hunting  pants. 
Soap  box. 
FoTintain  pen. 
Stationery. 


Large  pocket  knife. 

One  poncho. 

Two  riibber  blankets. 

One  rubber  bag. 

One  pair  heavy  leather  slippers. 

One  air  pillow. 

One  pair  rubber  overshoes. 

One  woolen  blanket. 

Mosquito  net. 

Canvas  hat. 

Three  pairs  heavy  hunting  shoes. 

Handkerchiefs. 

Two  suits  woolen  pajamas. 


ISOTKS    ON    PANAMA,  271 

Few  went  to  tlie  Istliinus  properly"  supplied  with  shoes. 
The  best  wading  shoes  did  not  last  longer  than  two  months, 
some  but  six  weeks.  Constant  wading,  cutting  from  rocks, 
and  dampness  resulting  in  mold  were  responsible  for  this. 

((3)  surgeons'  outfit. 

The  surgeons  accompanying  a  part}^  to  the  isthmus  should 
be  allowed  a  a  oice  in  the  selection  of  the  medicines  and 
instruments.  The  following  list  comprises  only  ai'ticles  that 
are  indispensable: 

One  field  case,  with  a  capacity  of  three  dozen  bottles,  and 
with  ample  room  for  the  articles  necessarj',  such  as  bandages, 
dressings,  ointments,  instruments,  etc.  The  complete  case 
should  not  exceed  30  pounds  in  weight.  There  should  be  an 
ample  supply-  of  calomel  tablets,  gr.  yV,  and  gr.  }  solu.  ipecac; 
quinine  sulphate  tablets;  flexible  collodion  and  camel's  hair 
brushes;  one  pocket  case  of  instruments;  one  hypodermic 
syringe  and  outfit;  three  fever  thermometers. 

A  sufficientl}"  varied  supply  of  medicines  and  surgical  ap- 
pliances to  meet  the  occurrence  of  diseases  of  the  Tropics  and 
possible  accidents. 

As  far  as  possible  all  medicines  should  be  in  tablet  form 
and  in  well  stopi)ed  bottles.    All  gelatin  capsules  spoil  rapidlj'. 

The  instruments  need  constant  care  and  oiling  to  protect 
them  from  rust,  which  forms  very  rapidl}'. 

In  the  description  of  the  diseases  in  this  report  encountered 
on  the  isthmus  I  have  given  the  greatest  prominence  to  those 
that  gave  us  the  greatest  troubles  without  regard  to  the 
seriousness  of  the  maladj". 

No  serious  accidents  occurred  in  party  No.  2.  No  diseases 
more  serious  than  malaria  and  bilious  fever  was  developed 
among  the  officers  of  the  expedition.  There  was  an  entire 
absence  of  diarrheal  dj'senteries  owing  to  the  sanitar}'  pre- 
cautions and  splendid  water  supply. 

Native  fruit  in  small  quantities  did  not  disagree  with  the 
men. 

12312—03 — —IS 


INDEX 


Page. 

Afnra  Island 100 

Aglaseniqua  gaps 249 

Agua  Dnlce.  village 163 

Alford.  W.  P 260 

Almirante  Bay 25, 174 

Sailing  directions ' 31 

Anachucuna  Bay 81 

Ancon.  mountain ._ 191.215 

Animal  resources . . 206.  206 

Anton,  town 163 

Anton-San  Carlos  trail 184 

Arena  Bay 101 

Aspinwall.  city.     {See  Colon.) 

Aspinwall.  William .  _ .       185 

Asylum  of  San  Jose  de  Malambo 161 

Atlantic  coast,  description  of 23 

Atrato  River 82, 134, 211. 216. 230, 232, 239, 334 

Bar  at  the  moutli  of . . .    . .       239 

Aztec 197 

Baliia  Honda  (deep  bay) . 98 

Bananas 208 

Baraco  Island . . 88 

Barbacoas 190 

Barbacoas  Bridge 153, 190 

Barry  Rock _ .  1 30, 132 

Bas  Obispo,  railroad  station . 188 

Bastimentos  Harbor 67 

Bastimentos  Island . 67 

Batele  Point 112 

Bayano  River 14 

Bayoneta  Island 138 

Bays  and  gulfs 23 

Bel  en  River 5 

Bellenita.  port 175 

Bello.  port.     (See  Portobelo.) 

Bhiefield  Creek . 40 

Bluefield  Point 39 

Bluefield  Rock 40 

Boca  (La),  port 146,156 

Boca  Brava 88 

Boca  Channel 113 

BocaChica,  channel 88,91,92,130,131 

273 


274:  INDEX. 

Page. 

Boca  Chica,  village,  supplies 91 

Boca  del  Drago.  channel 24, 174 

Boca  Grande,  channel 131 ,  13'2 

Boca  del  Toro.  channel ^7-28, 164. 174 

Boca  San  Pedro,  channel . .        85 

Boca  wharf 113 

Bohio  Soldado  {see  also  Buhio  Soldado) 188 

Boils 256,268 

Bolano  islets 88,90 

Bolivar  Asylum ...       161 

Bona  Island 110 

Boguerones  Point 67 

Brava  Island 88. 91 

British  consialar  reports  for  1890;  Colombia 164 

British  diplomatic  and  consular  report  ( 1899) 164 

Bruja  Point 93 

Bruja  Rock 93 

Buenaventura,  port 175 

Buena vista  Point 131 

Buey  Bank 127 

Buey  Point 114 

BiTgaba,  town 164 

Buhio  Soldado  {see  also  Bohio  Soldado) 152 

Bulletin.  Bureau  American  Republics 1 64, 204-208 

Buppan  Bluff 47 

Buppan  Peak 47 

Cables 195 

Calawawa  River 48 

Caledonia  Bay 134 

Caledonia  depression . 248 

Caledonia  Harbor 77 

Callao,  port . 175 

Camps •- 255.269 

Cana  River  . 46 

Canal 125,134,164,174,189 

Cost  of  Panama 174 

North  entrance 189 

Route 124,134 

San  Bias  route 124 

Candelaria  Bay " 84 

Candelaria  River 49 

Cape  Mala 109 

Cape  Tiburon 81 

Capira  INIountain 183 

Capira  River-Chorrera  trail 183 

Carre  Island     90 

CaiTeto  Bay 256 

CarretoGap 249 

Carreto.  jiort-      ... 80 


INDEX.  275 

Page. 

Carreto  River 257 

Carreto  Shoals ''^1 

Carreto  Valley - 257 

Carti  River 250 

Casaya  Island 138 

Cascadas  (Las) ,  railroad  station 187 

Casma,  port 175 

Castle  Choco •'jO 

Catalina  Hills ^^ 

Caiiro  Point 24 

Cayo.  port 1^-5 

Cebaco  Island 105 

Cedar  Island 130 

Census 196 

Chagres,  city  and  port 5, 6. 54 

Chagres  River 14.  l.').  58. 190,250 

Reconnaissance -  -  250 

Chalk 204 

ChameBay HO 

Chame  Island HI 

Chame — Not  a  trail 184 

Chame.  plains  of ^ 184 

Changiiinola  River . 174 

Chapera  Island , 138 

Charitable  institution  in  Colon  and  Panama 160 

Chepe  River . -  -  1 1 

Chepillo  Island 12'5 

Chepillo  River  ..... 125 

Chepo 180 

Chepo  River 124 

Chepo  road 180 

Chichime  Channel 73 

Chile,  steamship  communication  with 174 

Chiman  Range 221 

Chiman  River 125 

Chiman  village . .  _  181 

Chimbote,  port 175 

Chimno  Bay 88, 89 

Chinche  Bay 99 

SiTpplies 99 

Chinche  Islet ..-. 99 

Chipigana.  town 132-134 

Chirica  Mola  River 34 

Chirica  Mola  settlement 34 

Chiriqui  Lagoon 33, 88 

Chiriqui  Rocks - 42 

Choco  castle '"jO 

Chorrera  to  Capira  River,  trail -  1 88 

Chucunuqua  River.. --  13, 188, 18^ 


276  INDEX. 

Page. 

Chuchegal  Bay  90 

Ciuclad  de  David 86 

Clearing  marks 138, 141 

Climate 15, 62, 107, 118, 221 ,  247. 252, 258, 266 

Darien 133,201 

David,  city 87 

Panama,  city -  -  -  62, 118 

Coaita  Point 48 

Coal,  mines  and  facilities 120, 208, 204 

Cocoa  207 

Code  River '. 15 

Coclet  Moimtain 51 

Coclet  River 51 

Cofleee 207 

Coibo  Island  _  _  _  _   92. 100 

Colombia 6 

British,  diplomatic  and  consular  reports 20 

Bureau  of  American  Republics 15, 22 

Colombia — Isthmus  trails 189 

Colombian  line - . . 174 

Colon,  city 60,149,188 

Light 58 

Limon  or  Navy  Bay 58 

Ports,  break w^aters,  etc 143 

Colon — Panama  trails 1 89 

Columbus  Island 26 

Commerce . .  - 144, 152. 1 65 

Commerce,  Panama 121 

Commissary  ....    270 

Communication  _ . . _ .  _       164 

Communication,  interior T 214 

Compagnie  Generale  Transatlantique 174, 179 

Conception  River .         50 

Congress,  Latin- American .  _ .    . .  7 

Confederation  Granadina . 9 

Consuls.  Panama 123 

Contreras  Islands . . .        93 

Copper  ^ 203 

Corazal,  railroad  station - .         187 

Cordillera  de  Bando .  _  _ 11 

Cordillera  de  Chiriqui . . 12 

Cordillera  de  Veragua - .         50 

Cordilleras 219 

Cordilleras  Lloranes  _ _ .  _ _ 219 

Corro  Azul.  port 175 

Cruces — Gorgona  road  . 179 

Cruces — Panama  I'oad 179 

Craw  Cay  Channel  _ 31 

Cue  River 134 


INDEX.  277 


Culebra  Island 112 

Culebra.  town 155,187,189.190 

Cixrari  poison 241 

Currents.  Gulf  of  Panama 109 

Damas  Bay 100 

Supplies - 101 

Danaide  Rock 115 

Danta  Canyon  _ 264 

Darien  Canal  route 185 

DarienGiilf 81,134 

Darien  Harbor 131,132,133 

Darien ,  Isthmus  of -.5,6, 227-229 

Climate 133 

Productions 133 

David  Bay 88,89,92 

David,  city 86, 163 

David — Panama  road 181 

David  River 91 

Deer  Islet 90 

Diet 270 

Directory  of  American  Republics,  Commercial 178, 192 

Directory  of  Panama 14, 15, 146, 149, 162, 209. 210, 217 

Diseases 235, 236 

Divala.  town 183 

Divide,  journey  along 264 

Doguado  and  Napipi  canal  route 238 

Duarte  Islets  _ . .  _  _        66 

Duartis  Point 105 

Edith  Island . 132 

Educational  statistics . 217 

Ehle"s  report 248 

El  Jtieo.     (See  Jueo. ) 
ElPozo.     (SeePozo.) 

Ellen  Island 131 ,  132 

Emperador  (or  Empire) ,  town. 155, 187 

Engineering  magazine  (1900) 19 

Escoces  Point ■. 79 

Escoces,port 6.79 

Escondido.  port 81 

Escribanos  Bank 71 

Escribanos,  harbor 70 

Escribanos  Shoals . 71 

Escvido  de  Veragua •. . . . 45 

Esmeraldas,  port. 175 

Espinor  Jose  Domingo 7 

Eten.  port 175 

Evaporation 234 

'-Exports 208 

Farallon  sucio  rocks 66 


278  INDEX. 

Page. 

Fauna 21, 266 

Fever  269 

Flamenco  Island 112 

Flora 22,262 

Foley  Rocks ! 131 

Forests . 232 

Frailes  Islets 106 

Frenchman  Creek 36 

Frijoles,  town 153.188 

Water  supply _       1 53 

Fruit 208 

Fuel ■ . 205 

Galei-a  Island 139 

Gamboa,  town 155 

Game 266 

Garni  Island 88 

Garachine  Bay 129 

Garrote  Harbor 67 

Gaston  River 260 

Gatum,  village 152. 188. 190 

Geological  f eatiires . 206, 226. 237 

Gobernador  Island 105 

Gold • 203 

Gold  River 50 

Golden  Island 134 

Goleta  (La),  village 110 

Gorda  Point . . 97 

Gorgona,  town 154, 179. 188 

Gorgona-Cruces  road  ..       179 

Graham  Point 132 

Grande  Island,  light 69 

Granger.  H.  H 258 

Green  Islet ...         64 

Grono  Rock 89 

Guarida  Point 98 

Guayaquil,  port 175 

Guinea  Point 112 

Gulfs  and  bays 23 

Hamburg- American  Packet  Company 174. 179 

Handbook  of  Colombia,  Bureau  of  the  American  Republics 17. 143 

Harbors 221 

Harris.  Captain . 134 

Harrison  Line -  -       174 

Hay-Herran  treaty -  9 

Health '... 234.235 

Hermanos  Rocks 114 

Herrera.  Colonel 8 

Holandes  Cays 74 


INDEX.  279 

Page. 

Holandes  Channel . . 73 

Hospitals.  Panama 119, 160 

Howard's  report .  -  -  . 355 

Hnarniey,  port 1^5 

Hnasco,  jiort 1 75 

Hydrographic  Office,  No.  84,  1903 . 148 

Ice 307 

Ignana  Island . 109 

Imports  and  exports 308 

Incas - 198 

Independence  of  Isthmus 7 

Indians 183, 198, 333, 334, 335, 330, 357, 359, 366 

Infectious  diseases 18 

Inhabitants 196,333,339,353 

Indians.     (.SV^' Indians.) 

Instruction,  public 316 

Interior  of  the  Isthmus . . -  -  315 

Iron 303 

Isla  Grande  light - -  69 

Isthmus-Colombia  trails 189 

Italian  line 174 

Jeannette  Island 131 

Jicaron  Island 103 

Jones  Islet 133 

Jorey  Island - 131 

Juco  Point 89,90,91 

King  Buppan's  Peak  ... 47 

Knocker  Rock .  115 

La  Boca,  La  Goleta,  La  Palma,   La  Pantila,  etc.     {See  Boca. 
Goleta.  Palma,  Pantila,  etc.) 

Labor 355 

Ladrones.  islets 93 

Lakes 13 

Landing  places - 315 

Languages  196 

Las  Cascadas,  railroad  station 187 

Lavadera  Shoal 67 

Lavandera  Rock 91 

Leggings 356, 368 

Lime 304 

Lime  Point  ...    34 

Limones  Bay 5 

Linartes.  islands 90 

Lines  of  communication 164 

Lion  Hill 188 

Little  Toboga  Island 176 

Lower  Obispo,  station 155, 188 

McGregor.  General - .   6 


280  INDEX. 

Machine  shops:  Page. 

Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company 112 

Panama 121 

Majaguay  Island 126 

Mala  Cape 109 

Mala.  Ptinta  Mala  pesthonse 160 

Malaria 245 

Mamei,  railroad  station 188 

Mandinga  Pass 260 

Mangalee  River . . r)2 

Mangiie  Island 126 

Manta,  i^ort 175 

Manufactures 206. 207 

Manzanillo  Bay 63 

Manzanillo  Island 58 

Manzanillo  Point C8 

Mariato  Point .   .  105 

Mary  Island 131.132 

Matachin,  town 154,188,190 

Medical  report.  Darien  expedition 242 

Medidor  Island 97 

Melones  Island .  Ill 

Merry,  Capt.  W.  L 177 

Milne  Island . 131,132 

Mineral  resources ..-_.. 203,  204 

Mineral  waters 203 

Mines,  coal 204 

Miraflores,  railroad  station 187 

Modern  Panama  _  _   . .. 158 

Monitas  Islets 89,91 

Monkey  Hill 189 

Mono  River 74 

Monthly  Bulletin,  Bureau  of  American  Repviblics 147, 179, 195 

Montijo  Bay 104 

Montuosa  Islets 92 

Supplies 92 

Morro  Puercos 106 

Mulatas  Archipelago , 73 

Mules 206 

Nahia,  port 175 

Naos  Island 112.191 

Nata,  town 163 

Nata-Chame  trail 184 

Napipi  and  Doguado  Canal  route .  238 

Napipi  River 237 

Navagandi  River 74 

Negroes -  - .  185 

New  Granada 6. 8, 9 

Nombre  de  Dios 5 

Nombre  de  Dios  Harbor 69 


INDEX.  281 

Pugi- 

North  American  Navigation  Company . 176 

Niievo.  port ....92,94 

Nuevo,  pueblo — 96 

Obispo,  lower  and  upper,  towns 155, 188 

Oro  Island 1  ~T 

Orology  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien . 219 

Orphan  asylum ... -       161 

Otoipie  Island . 110 

Outfit 2T0. 271 

Pacasinayo,  port 1 75 

Pacific  coast 85 

Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company 177 

Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company 175 

Pacora  road 180 

Pajaros  Bay .  - 97 

Paj arcs  Island . 126.138 

Palenque  anchorage . 89, 91 

Paley  Island 131,182 

Palma.  village 133 

Palms  ___. . . 307 

Panama .. 5.6,8.9 

Boundaries 11 

Mountain  ranges 11 

Panama  Canal 61,62.122 

Panama,  city 117.156,179.214 

Anchorage .       115 

Light -- --       116 

Modern  Panama 158 

Port 115. 144. 174 

Postal  communications , 120 

Railroad __, :. 122 

Steamer  lines 120,178.179 

Supplies - 119 

Telegraphs 120 

Viejo  (old  Panama) 118. 179 

Water  supply ... .         18 

Panama-David  road 181 

Panama-Portobelo  trail 1 89 

Panama  Railroad 120, 122. 185 

Bridges 215 

Concession  for 135 

Cost  of 185 

Description  of  route 186,190,198 

Directors  of - .       191 

La  Boca  Canal,  dredging. ...   192 

Pier 186 

Plant 186 

Stations,  list  of ...       191 

Time  table 193 


282  INDEX. 

Pajro. 

Panama  Railroad  Company's  steamship  lines 1 79 

Pantila  Islet 132 

Paraiso.  town  and  railroad  station  . 156. 187 

Parida  Channel 88 

Parida  Island 87. 89 

Anchorage -  88 

Sailing  directions 89 

Tides 91 

ParitaBay 110 

Passage  Rock . 141 

Patena  Point 129 

Payta.  port 175 

Pearl  Islands 136 

Pearls .- 203 

Pecuado.  Doctor 198 

Pedro  Gonzales  Island  . . 139 

Pedro  Miguel,  railroad  station 187 

Pelado  Island 125 

Peranchita  River . . . .  134 

Perico  Island 112 

Perry  Bay 140 

Perro  Cays .-^- 71 

Pescador  Point  70 

Pesthoiise  of  Pnnta  Mala 1<)0 

Petillo  Point 114 

Piedras  and  Perro  cays 71 

Pierce  Point .  -  -  128 

Pilon  de  Miguel  de  la  Borda  Mountain 52 

Pimentel,  port 175 

Pinos  Isle -  - 74 

Pisco,  port - 175 

Plantain  Cay 44 

Playa  Grande  Bay -  90 

Pasturage  near  the  hay -  90 

Pneumonia 269 

Poisoned  arrows .  .* . 241 

Political  table  of  Panama -' 210 

Popa  island  . . _ . 33 

Population _--- 196,223,229,253 

Between  David  and  Panama- _ -  198 

Indians 182, 198, 223, 224, 225. 230, 257, 259, 266 

Talamancans 200 

Port  Carreto,  Port  Escoces,  Port  Escondido,  Port  Nuevo,  etc. 
{See  Carreto,  port:  Escoces,  port;  Escondido.  port:  Nuevo, 
port:  etc.) 

Portobelo-Panama  trail - 189 

Porto])elo  Point 66 

Portohelo.  port 6,  23,  63. 179 

Position,  defensive 187,189,215 


INDEX.  283 

Page. 

Pozo  aucliorage 91 

Price  Point - ..       131 

Prince  Point 133 

Products '... 201,206 

Promenades 161 

Prosper  Rock 93 

Provision  Island 27 

Public  instruction 216 

Pueblo  Nuevo 96 

Puerto  Escoces.  Puerto  San  Lorenzo,  etc.     (<SV«?  Escoces,  port:  San 
Lorenzo,  port,  etc.) 

Punta  Mala  pesthouse -    . .       160 

Quibo  Island.     {See  Coibo  Island.) 

Races 196 

Raft  biiilding 265 

Railroads  . 185 

Intercontinental  . 19.") 

Panama  Railroad.     {See  Panama  Railroad.) 

Projected . . 195 

Rainy  season.  Colon 62 

Rations 270 

Ray  Island • 131 ,  132 

Remedios.  town 199 

Reports: 

British  Diplomatic  and  Consular 164, 207 

Commercial  Relations.  1902 174 

Humphrey.  C.  B. .  Captain.  Twenty-second  Infantry ._....      143, 

144, 145. 147. 151. 162. 179. 189, 206 

Intercontinental  Railway  Commission 13, 163, 181 ,  185, 200 

Interoceanic  Canal.  1901 174 

Resources 203 

Animals 203 

Fuel  and  timber 205 

Manufactures 206 

Mineral 203 

Products 206 

Reventazones  Shcals 77 

Revenues 208 

Revesa  Bay 83 

Rey  Island 138 

Rincon  Point 51 

Rio  de  los  Indios . 15 

Rio  Grande 184, 187 

Rivers 13,231 

Roads  and  trails 179, 180, 181, 184, 189, 263 

Robalo  River 37 

Royal  Mail  Steam  Packet  Company 179 

Royal  Mail  Steamship  Company 1 74 

Sabana  road 179 


284  INDEX. 

Page. 

Sabanilla  Point 6(3 

Saboga  anchorage 187 

Saboga  Island 187 

Saino  Island 91 

St.  Christoplier  Bay 51 

St.  Elmo  Bay 139 

Salmedina  Bank 65 

Salt ; 203 

Samanco,  port 175 

San  Bias: 

Canal  route _• 124 

Channel _  7 

Depression 250 

Distiict 164 

Gtilf  of . 11.71 

Indians 258 

San  Carlos,  town 168 

San  Carlos- Anton  trail 184 

San  Christoval  Bay  : - . 69 

San  Jose  Bank 136 

San  Jose  Island 90, 91 ,  140 

San  Lorenzo  Point 127 

San  Lorenzo,  village 91 

Supplies _         91 

San  Miguel: 

Anchorage .  _   189 

Bay 127 

Region 180 

San  Pablo,  tawn  -i 153 

San  Pedro  Channel 88 

Sanitary  conditions,  Panama 119 

Sanitation 21 ,  269 

Santa  Cruz  Point  .... 89 

Santa  Maria  River.  _ .   133, 184 

Santiago,  town 163 

Sasardi,  bay  and  harbor  .  _ 75 

Sasardi  Gap 249 

Savannah  Point 181 ,  132 

Savannah  River . . .- 132, 135 

Scientific  American 202 

Scrubln-  Point 40 

Sailing  directions _' 41 

Scruggs,  W.  L 21,196-198 

Season,  best  for  expedition 183 

Secas  Islands 93 

Selaverry.  port. 175 

Selfridge.  T.  O. ,  United  States  Navy,  report 219 

Sentinela  Island . 98 

Sevilla  I.slands 88 


INDEX.  285 

Sharp.  Captain ... .       1 34 

Shepherd  Harbor ~9 

Sickness 2<)T 

Snyder,  N.T IT-t 

Soil 281 

South  American  Steamship  Company ._ 174 

South  Forallon  Ingles  Island 126 

Stanford's    Compendium    of    Geography,    Central    and    South 

Americ.i 14,19,22.14t 

Stanley  Island 130,131,182 

Statesman's  Yearbook 165. 208 

Statistics,  educational 217 

Steamer  lines,  Panama 120. 1 7s.  1 79 

Strain  Island  . 130. 132 

Sugarcane 207 

Sulphur  rocks 115 

Supe,  port  - 1 75 

Supplies .  -       254 

David 87 

Panama 119 

San  Lorenzo 91 

Sasardi  Bay 76 

Swamp  sores . 267 

Swamps 190. 191 

Table,  political,  of  Panama 210 

Taboga  Rock 115 

Taboga  Island .   ... 111 

Taboguilla  Island '. .  111 

Talamaneans . .._._. .       200 

Talon  Island , 98 

Taltal,  port -. 175 

Tambo  de  Moro,  port ...    175 

Tambor  Island 68 

Tavernilla,  town 153. 188 

Taxes -.-. L..._ 208 

Techura.  port ... 175 

Telegraph 120.195,214 

Tents 270 

Terrin  Point 70 

Tiburon  Cape 81 

Tides: 

Chiriqui  lagoon .    . 39 

Gulf  of  Panama 109. 116 

Tiger  breaker 43 

Tiger  cays .  43 

Tiger  channel .  -         37 

Tiger  Head 47 

TigerRock ....         43 

Timber  and  fuel 205 


f^  THE  LIBRARV        iiftj^4/AV 

i'^^oS  ««t  utur.  eth  ^NFANTRy 

286  INDEX. 

I'agf. 

Tirbi  Point "^0 

Tobacco 207 

Tobobo  bank 44 

Tobobo  bight . .  44 

Toro  Point- ......  1 57 

Trails . 179, 180. 181 .  184. 189. 263 

Trade,  export : 208 

Transportation,  miiles 206 

Treaty  of  1846  __. 8 

Trevan  islet 181 

Trinidad  River  ...  J . 126, 1 80 

TiiiraRi\er.     (See  Tuyra  River.) 

Tnmaco,  port 175 

Tnmbes,  port 175 

Turk  Island J 182 

Tuyra  River 13. 14, 132, 138. 134. 184.  216, 234 

Ulcers 268 

Upper  Obispo,  town 155 

Urava  Island  . 111 

Vagnila  Rock 132 

Valiente  Breaker . 43 

Yaliente  Cays 42 

Valiente  Channel 43 

Valiente  Peak 43 

Valiente  Peninsula .. . 44 

Valladolid  Rock Ill 

Valparaiso .  steamship  connection  with 1 74 

Vampire  bats ...  244 

Vegetables 206 

Ventana  Island 91 

Veraguas 5, 197 

Virago  Point 131 

Virgin  Point 129, 132 

Viuda  Rock  (or  Widow  Rock)  89 

Vivei'os  Island : 138 

Volcanoes 12 

Washington  Island. 130 

Water: 

Drinking 179,269 

Mineral 203 

Water  Cay 34 

Water  transjjortation  174 

West  Indies  and  Pacific  Steamship  Company . . 174 

Wharfage.  Colon \62 

Wickes.G  L  ... A?66 

Widow  Rock.     (See  Viuda  Rock.)  ( 

Winds ^77,108 

Woods. - A- 1/  -  -  -  -  ^^^ 

Zambu  River ^ . id.^.  - : . .  15 

Zapatcro  Point -  .L|8..  J. 49 

Zapatilla  Cays .1 . : 33 

o  \s,^ 


.i^JtM^L 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  C  ALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


lOOM  11/86  Series  9482 


illliliilllillili 

1205  00740  4823 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


AA    000  939  035    2 


MANCHURIA 


"CSB    LIBRAfiy 

SHEET   7 


SECOND  DIVlSION.GENtRAL  STAFF:  (MILITARY  INFORMATION  DIVISION) 


illlliilllillll 

1205  00740  4823 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


AA    000  939  035    2 


